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Titan Replacement Master Cylinder Assembly Installation

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How to Install the Titan Replacement Master Cylinder Assembly

Today on our boat trailer, we'll be installing the Titan Master Cylinder Assembly, part number T4749501042. We're also going to be using a reverse lockout solenoid for hydraulic brake actuators. It is part number DM11993. Here's our master cylinder for reverse lockout solenoid already screwed into it. Your master cylinder will have a fitting like this in the back of it. You just unscrew that and you can screw your solenoid in for the reverse lockout. I will show you how to install the master cylinder real quick.

We will just slide it into the tongue of our trailer like so, making sure the push rod slides into the channel of the tongue and then we'll grab our bolts here, there are 2 on either side that it bolts to. We'll have to push in on our master cylinder a little bit in order to line up the bolt holes. Now we have these started on this side, we will do the other side the same way. Once we have all 4 bolts started, we can tighten them down. Now we can take our brake line and secure it into our lockout solenoid here. We'll tuck out the excess brake hose underneath the trailer in the channel.

We will tighten up our fitting going into the lockout solenoid for our long brake hose going back to our T fitting and we will secure our access down. We can fill our master cylinder with some fresh, clean brake fluid from an unopened container. Fill it up and re-secure our cap like so. We can open up the brake bleeder on the passenger side, because it is the furthest from the master cylinder. I want to use the top one, you always use the top brake bleeder.

I will open this up a little bit using a 7/16 wrench. Now we can start bleeding our brakes. You can take your safety chain here and give you a place to rest a 2 by 4 or metal pipe along and you can push the tongue of the trailer back into the master cylinder and we can begin the bleeding process. Pushing back on the tongue like so, and I will keep on doing this process until we have no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw on either caliper. Now that we've had a steady stream of fluid coming out of the passenger side, we have a screw here on the top, we'll do the same on the drivers side and once we have a steady stream of fluid coming out of that one as well, we will top off our brake fluid in the master cylinder and we will check the system for any leaks that any of the connection points where our hoses meet. If not leaks are found, our hydraulic portion of the brake system is done, so we can to ahead and put our wheels back on now at this point and time. Now that we have completely bled our brakes and checked or any leaks, we can actually hook up our reverse lockout solenoid. These wires can now block out solenoid.

We will ground one of them to the trailer frame and the one will go to the reverse wire signal from our trailer input on the electrical connector. I will take one of the wires, strip off about 1/4 inch or so and then we will take a ring terminal here and crimp it on and we will use this one as our ground wire and we'll ground it to the frame of the trailer. With that we will use a self tapping screw right here and we'll just find a place in the frame to ground it to. We got our self tapping screw and screw gun. We'll take our other wire here and hook up the reverse input of our trailer. Strip off 1/4 inch, take a weather proof butt connector here insert it and we'll crimp it down as well. The other end will go to our bi-pole or our 7 pole, whichever one we are using. This will be the input for the reverse signal. We're going to convert our trailer to a 5 hole signal here by flat. This is for bigger boat trailers. The 5 pole flat connector that we are using here for either installation of the trailer wiring is 20017. There is a blue wire here which is the signal for reverse for your trailer brake lockout solenoid. We will strip off 1/4 inch of this blue wire here and we will install it into our butt connector here that goes to our solenoid. We will crimp it into place. We can hook up the rest of our wires to where they go based upon our connection here. We will take our old connection here and cut off these zip ties to separate our wires so we can access them a little bit easier. I'm going to start with our green wire, strip it back about 1/4 of an inch. We are measuring off where we need to trim back our green wire, right about there we will cut the excess off of our green wire, strip back another 1/4 of an inch and install our butt connectors. Now we will take the brown wire for our right side and we'll do that one next and then we will do the same for the other wires. With all of our electrical connections made now, we can use our heat source, seal our heat shrink butt connectors up. To help tidy up our wires, I'm going to take some electrical tape here and wrap around our wires, just so we don't have a lot hanging down and this will make a nice clean install. Now that we've done that, we can actually go hook it up to our truck and go down to the lake and enjoy our boat. That completes the installation of the Titan Master Cylinder Assembly, part number T4749501042.

Info for this part was:

Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Brent H
Installed by:
Brent H
Employee Andy C
Installed by:
Andy C

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