View Cart

Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Toyota Highlander

content loading



Customers compare ETBC7 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video




How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Toyota Highlander


Today on our 2014 Toyota Highlander, we're going to be installing the Teconsha Voyager Trailer Brake Controller, part number 39510. Some other parts that we'll also be using today during our installation is the Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controllers, part number ETBC7, as well as dielectric grease, part number 11755. Now, without your trailer connected to your vehicle, the brake controller will not have any lights on. When you plug your trailer on, you'll notice that the light comes on. Now, you will need to set your brake controller for your individual trailer following the manufacturer's instructions. Now, we'll go ahead and begin our install. We're going to begin here at the rear of the vehicle. This vehicle already has a four-flat wiring installed but we're going to need to remove the factory bracket.

Go ahead and undo the Philips head screws. Go ahead and trim the tape back here so we'll allow the bracket to come free from the four-flat and we'll go ahead and take our bracket that comes with the ETBC7 kit. It actually lines up with the two holes that we just removed the bolt and nut from. We're going to go ahead and install our new bracket reusing the factory hardware. Next, we're going to go ahead and attach our 7 and 4-pole plug to our bracket. Go ahead and work the wires through the opening right there, slide it in place, then we'll attach it with the supplied hardware, using a screw like this and a nut like this on the back side.

Go ahead and put this using the same hardware on all four of the locations on the plug. Then go ahead and tighten everything down once we have them all installed. Next, we're going to go ahead and take a little electrical tape and wrap the wires coming out of the back of the plug just to give them a little bit of protection. This will also help keep all the wires together and make our install a little nicer. Next, we're going to need to act a little bit of dielectric grease to our factory four-flat wiring before we plug it into the back of our new plug. With our grease installed to help protect our connection, we'll go ahead and plug the two together. We'll then take a zip tie to secure them and make sure that they don't come back apart.

Then go ahead and trim off the excess zip tie. Next, we'll need to take our duplex wiring. We need to trim some of the gray covering back. That will then expose a black and a white wire. We'll then need to strip both of these back so we can connect into the back side of our 4 and 7-way plug. We'll need to connect our black wire to the black wire with a butt connector already on it.

This is for the 12 volt hot lead leading to our 7-way plug. The white wire will connect in with the blue wire, as this is what will send current or signal back to the trailer brakes. We'll go ahead and crimp both of these on and then tape them up to protect them. Now, the purple wire coming off the back of the plug is for your reverse lights circuits. Now, on this particular application, we're not going to be installing this or hooking this up, so we'll just tape it off in line to protect it in case you want to hook it up at a later time. We've gone ahead and fed our wires up and over this little bracket here. Next, we're going to take our duplex wire and feed it underneath this plastic cover and pull it out here at the front of it. Next, we're going to go ahead and we'll be securing our brown wire. We'll be using a self-tapping screw to secure this to the frame of the vehicle. We'll then go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. Next, we're going to go ahead and route our gray duplex wire up to the front of the vehicle or we'll pull it up into the engine compartment area. Now, in routing the wire, you want to make sure you stay away from areas that may become hot, have moving parts or have sharp edges, as all of these could easily damage the wire. Now, it may be helpful to remove a couple of bolts or fasteners from the plastic underbody piece as this will help you route the wire to the front of the vehicle a little bit easier. We're also be using several zip ties along the way to help us secure our wire. Now, keep in mind that anything that you may have removed in order to route the wire, you will need to reinstall. To help us pull the wire up into the engine compartment, we'll go ahead and take a pull wire and feed it from the top side down underneath the vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and secure our wire here to our pull wire. We're just going to use some electrical tape to do that. Go ahead and pull our wire up into the engine compartment. Now, with our line pulled up into the engine compartment, we'll go ahead and put a zip tie to help secure it. Next, we're going to need to find an area that we can mount both of our circuit breakers. We're going to remove this piece of interior plastic trim here underneath the engine compartment by pushing down on each of the tabs. That will release it and allow you to lift it out. Now, we're going to be putting two circuit breakers in here, a 40 amp one, which is for the 12 volt hot circuit on the 7-pole, and then a 30 amp which is for the brake controller itself. We're going to go ahead and mount them here on this metal underneath the plastic here using the self-tapping screws. We'll put one there and pull put one somewhere like that. We'll be using a self-tapping screw to secure this to the frame of the vehicle. Next, we're going to go ahead and take our razor knife and trim the gray coating that's on our duplex wire so that we can peal it back exposing the black and white wire. Now, we'll go ahead and set our white wire aside for now. This will actually get routed into the cab of the vehicle connected to the brake controller. With our black wire, we'll go ahead and trim the length, strip a little wire back. We'll then add one of the smaller ring terminals to the wire. We'll then go ahead and connect it here to the silver side of our circuit breaker and then put our star washer back in place, followed by the nut. Next, we're going to take the end of the black wire that we just trimmed off the excess, strips more back again. Go ahead and add another one of the small ring terminals for that. We'll then hook this one to the brass side or the copper side of the circuit breaker. Go ahead and put the star washer and the nut back on, tighten them down. Now, we'll go ahead and route the black wire over towards the opsitive side of the batter where we can trim off the excess wire for now. We'll go ahead and take some of our extra black wire and strip off another section. Go ahead and add another small ring terminal to it. We'll go ahead and take the nut off the copper or the bronze half of the circuit breaker here, as well as a star washer. Then take our black wire and connect it to our circuit breaker, route the wire down and around the fuse box. Then put our star washer and nut back in place. We'll then go ahead and route the black wire over to the positive side of the battery. Go ahead and just trim it to length for now. We'll make these final connections at the end. Next, we're going to need to go into the vehicle, into the driver's side and underneath the dash, but we're going to drill a hole through the firewall in order to pull the white wire into the vehicle and learn another set of the duplex wires from inside the vehicle into the engine compartment. That's part number 10-2-1. You need approximately 10 extra feet. Let me go ahead and peel the carpet back here. We're going to need to trim out the sound-dubbing material right in this area just using a razor knife. Now that we've got some of the firewall exposed, we're going to go ahead and drill a small pilot hole first. Now, before you drill through the firewall, check to make sure on the other side that there's nothing that could be damaged from the drill bit. We've already gone ahead and checked to make sure that we're clear, we're going to drill over. There's a little bolt right here that holds a stirring column boot in place, as well as the flange for it. We're going to come over about 1 inch towards the outside of the vehicle and put a pilot hole right there. Now that we've got our pilot hole drilled, we'll go ahead and step it up to your appropriate size for our particular grommet. Now, you will need to supply a rubber or plastic grommet to go through the firewall to protect the wires from the sharp edges of the metal. We'll go ahead and install our grommet in the firewall. We'll go ahead and take a pull wire. We'll push it through our grommet. That will help us in pulling the wires back up into place. We'll go ahead here in engine compartment, feed the white wire back down to where we just pushed our pull wire through the firewall. We'll go underneath the vehicle and go ahead and connect the two together using some electrical tape. Go ahead and pull our white wire into the cab of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and strip the gray covering off of our additional 10 feet of black and white wire. Now, we'll go ahead and take our black and white wire that we just stripped the coating off of, feed it through the grommet or into the engine compartment. Now, that we're underneath the vehicle, we'll pull our white and our black wire we just fed through the grommet down. Go ahead and give ourselves enough to reach the negative side of the battery. We're going to go ahead and take our pull wire again and feed it down from the top of the engine compartment so that we can pull our additional white and black wire up to the top size of the engine compartment. Go ahead and tape off our two wires or our pull wire. We'll go back to the top side of the motor and pull the wires up in a position. Next, we'll go ahead and put a zip tie to secure the two wires so they don't slide back down. Once that's done, we can go ahead and trim off any excess zip tie. Next, we'll go ahead and take the black wire and route it over to our 30 amp breaker. Once we get the proper length, you can go ahead and trim it and add another small ring terminal. We'll connect it right here to the side of the 30 amp breaker. Go ahead and reinstall our panel here. Next, we'll go ahead and take the white wire here, cut the wire off. We'll put a large ring terminal on it and we'll connect it to the negative side of the battery. We can go ahead and put a little bit of tape to hold our three wires coming through the firewall together. Next, we're going to need to move the screw here as well as one right here to pull this lower panel down. As you're pulling down, there's a little tab right in here. You'll just simply squeeze in and you could slide the panel down. You'll notice there's a couple of electrical connections that are secured through the panel here. Just going to try to remove the panel out of the way enough. Now, after having tested our wires that come off the brake light switch, it's the large green wire that only comes on hot when your test light is connected to the green wire and you press in on the brake pedal. We'll go ahead and attach a jumper wire off of this green wire using a quick splice connector. Now, we'll go ahead and take our quick splice, we'll tie in with the green wire that we test fit, go ahead and add our jumper wire in. Once our quick splice is closed, we'll go ahead and tape it up. We'll then go ahead and use a few zip ties to help secure the excess wire underneath the dash. We'll then are going to go ahead and take our four wires and then go through the opening here on this lower panel. Then go ahead and work the panel back up into position. Here's the brake controller and the bracket. Now, this particular customer would like the brake controller mounted right here on a lower kit panel piece. We'll go ahead and attach the bracket using a couple of self-tapping screws. Next, we're going to need to go ahead and make our connections here on the back side of the brake controller. Go ahead and connect our black here, with the black wire coming off the back of the brake controller. We'll be connecting our red wire with the red wire. This red wire is the brake light switch wire. Now, this white wire is our ground wire that runs to the negative side of the battery so we'll be connecting it with this white wire here. A quick tech tip, if you use the same color of wire coming in, it's a good idea to mark it either with a piece of tape or to strip the end of it so you know which wire is which. Now, this other white wire is actually the wire that will tie in with the blue wire, and it actually ties in with the blue wire back at our 7-way plug. This is the brake signal wire that goes back to our trailer brakes. Once we have all of our connections made, we can go ahead and tape everything up and then finish installing the brake controller into the bracket. We'll go ahead and reinstall the lower panel here. Go ahead then and connect our brake controller to our bracket. Now, with our interior pieces back on and the brake controller secure, we'll go ahead and go hook up our two positive leads unto the battery. Go ahead and remove the positive side cap on the battery. Go ahead and loosen this side up here then add our two ring terminals in. Go ahead and tighten everything back down. Go ahead and reinstall our cover on the positive side. Next, we're going to need to take a little bit of silicone sealant and seal up the hole that we made through the firewall. The sealant we'll be using is Loctite RTV 598 Gasket Maker, part number LT37467. That will do it for our installation of the Teconsha Voyager Trailer Brake Controller, part number 39510 in conjunction with the Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controllers, part number ETBC7 on our 2014 Toyota Highlander. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

John B 01/13/2019

I have a 2018 Highlander hybrid version and the video and directions for the brake controller were not complete or adequate. The battery is not in the engine compartment, problem 1and the wires coming from the brake pedal switch were nothing like the video shows. I have had good luck with Etrailer and would recommend them, but they dont have the correct info for a 2018 Highlander hybrid. 48497

add comment

Rachael H 01/15/2019

The installation for a 2018 Toyota Highlander Hybrid is indeed different than for the standard models. We do have some tech tips that are explained in our fit guide pages for brake controllers for your year and model of Highlander. I have provided that link below for your reference, but the summary is that before installing a brake controller you will need to make sure that the battery is disconnected before installing a brake controller or a 7-way. If it is not disconnected an error code can be triggered that would disable the vehicle. If your Highlander does not have a 7-way connection for a brake controller my recommendation would be to use a similar kit that does not require tapping into the brake circuit, and to use a different style of brake controller that is less dependant on vehicle connections like the Curt Echo # C51180, the Redarc Tow Pro Elite # 331-EBRH-ACCV2, or the trailer mounted Prodigy RF # 90250. For any of these brake controllers you will need a 7-way that has an active 12-V power source and that can be installed using a similar kit to this video and that part # is ETBC7L.These alternative brake controllers avoid connecting to the brake signal from the vehicle, but still provide proportional braking for your trailer. 44487


Helpful Links

bc-2018_Toyota_Highlander.htm

Brake-Controller/Toyota/Highlander/2018/331-EBRH-ACCV2.html?vehicleid=201884792

Brake-Controller/Toyota/Highlander/2018/90250.html?vehicleid=201876120

Brake-Controller/Toyota/Highlander/2018/C51180.html?vehicleid=201883614

p-ETBC7L.html



Info for these parts were:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Video Edited:
Chad S
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Joe B
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Video by:
David F
Video by:
Michael B
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Installed by:
Jeff D
Test Fit:
Jared G
Test Fit:
Andrew S

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.