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Tekonsha Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2022 Volkswagen Taos

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How to Install the Tekonsha Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2022 Volkswagen Taos


Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2022 Volkswagen Taos, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha four-way flat vehicle wiring harness. So if you're someone that is gonna be planning on pulling a trailer around, you're gonna want the lights to work on it. That way people around you know what's going on and you'll be safe and legal. And to accomplish that, you're gonna need some trailer wiring. And that's exactly what a kit like this is gonna do.

It's going to send signals back to your trailer and give you your left and right turn, your taillights as well as your brake lights. So this is going to be your standard four-way flat type connector. Super common and chances are pretty good, whatever trailer you're pulling with your Volkswagen, it's probably gonna have this type of connector. This can also work with a lot of light up accessories. So for example, cargo carriers with lights on them are getting more, more popular nowadays and most of them have a connector like this.

So if you're using something like that as well, you'll be able to power it up. The Tekonsha kit is well made. I'm a big fan of them actually. Just the wiring and everything goes above and beyond. It's nice and thick and just put together.

Actually, my old vehicle, I actually installed Tekonsha wiring and had really good luck with it for a long time. And that that pretty much holds true with all the Tekonsha wiring that we've done here recently. They just flat out work. One thing you can do is take your dust cover and wrap it around your safety chain of opening like I have here. And that gives you a good spot to mount it up.

You can also get some brackets, but just how the hitch is positioned on the vehicle, I honestly don't know if it would look any better than just doing it like this. So when it comes to actually mounting this up, you definitely have a couple options there. But other than that, at the end of the day, pretty straightforward. Well-made kit that's going to power up your trailer lights. As far as the installation is concerned. It really wasn't too bad. Nothing really complicated per se. It just time consuming. Having to run wires and everything else. So as long as you stay focused. Set aside a little bit of time on the weekend or whatever, you shouldn't really run into too many issues. So if you'd like to see how that's done, feel free to hang around. We'll go ahead and do that together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna be here at the back of our Volkswagen and we're gonna be working inside. So open up our hatch. We need to access our taillight wiring, which it's pretty convenient. There's actually a small panel here that we can pop open and get to it. So you look right here, there's our panel. With these, you can just pop them out and right here there's our taillight wiring. So there's some tape on it. What I'm gonna do is work this tape off to expose the wires underneath. And once I have that done, you'll do the same thing over on the passenger side of your vehicle. So I got that tape off of our wires here. And what we need to do now is test them for the outputs or what wire does what. So the kit will come with this little test light and I already figured out what ones do well, but I'll show you how to use this. So for example, right now we have our left turn signal on and you can either poke this wire. Sometimes that can be hard or just barely score it a little bit to expose wire. You'll clip one end of the test side onto the body of the vehicle or it's a ground and then put that onto the wire. So you can see that light flashing and sympathy with our left turn signal. So we know that's it. So you need to find three signals on the driver's side. And for your taillight signal, your brake light signal, and your turn signal. Passenger side, you just need to find the turn signal for over there. So we have on the driver's side the black wire with the white stripe. That's gonna be our left turn signal. The red wire with the black stripe, that's gonna be our brake light signal. And the gray wire with the black stripe, that's gonna be our taillight signal. Over here on the passenger side, like I said, I did the exact same thing. And this time I just tested for our right turn signal. And that one happens to be this black wire with a green stripe. So now that we know what wires do what and everything else, we need to give us some room to work here. So I'm gonna take this floor covering out, get that out of the way. Probably pull these foam containers out and that should be enough. If we have to take our spare tire out eventually, we'll do that. But for now, I think we'll be in pretty good shape. After looking at this a little bit more, I think you might take this threshold piece off too. That way we can run our wire cross to the passenger side clean and head in and everything else. So with these, there's really no fasteners holding them in, just some clips. So you just work your way around it and release the clips free and set it out of the way for now. So now we can take some of our wiring and start to get it routed. So what we're gonna do, the single green wire and then your four-way flat wiring to just tape those together. I'm gonna drop these down through our opening here and I'm gonna reach in under here. Hopefully, I can get my hand in through here. If not, you might have to take it apart a little bit more but try to reach in and grab it and pull it out here. So this possible to do, you sneak your hand in there, get your other arm down in there and grab your wiring. I'm just gonna pull that all the way out. You can take the white wire with the pre-attach ring terminal. That's gonna be a ground and I'm gonna ground it right here on the sheet metal using the provided self tapping screw. Now we're able to start to quick splice some of our connections like our turn signals, brake lights. So this is a three wire system. Since each function is driven by one wire. So we'll start with the left turn signal which is our black and white one. You're gonna take your quick splice and open it up. You're gonna put that around the wire. You can close it in. And then since this is our left turn, we're gonna take the new yellow wire. Feed that end into it and then you just take a pair of pliers. I like to use needle nose. We're gonna squeeze that pin down and that what's gonna make the connection there. So once it's pushed down, you can close up that cap and I'm gonna do the same thing over here for our tail and our brake lights. So if you grab the new wires off of our trailer wiring here, the red one is gonna be the brake light signal. And so that'll get connected to the red and black factory wire. And the new brown wire, that's gonna be our taillight signal. And so that'll get connected to the factory gray and black wire. So I'll just use that same technique to get those in. So I have all those hooked up like we talked about and here's how it turned out. And what we can do now is grab our bundle of power wire, get that partially run and connected here. So what I've done is took our bundle of power wire, ran it up through our opening. The rest of the bundle actually dropped down through grommet which I'll get to in a minute here. We'll focus on this stuff up here for now, but what you're gonna do is strip back to end of the insulation, give that wire twist to make sure it's tight. This one already actually comes pre-stripped this black wire with the red stripe coming out of our module there. You're gonna take a butt connector, slide that over the bare end of the wire, crimp it down. The other end, so we get plugged in and crimp down as well. So I went ahead and mounted up our module box. There's actually a factory hole, and the sheet metal I just use the zip tie to secure. It just cleaned everything up a little bit. And now we can focus on our green wire. So if you remember, we dropped the green wire out the bottom and we need to run it across our threshold. So our green wire, I actually just used some packing tape and ran it along this groove here. Careful not to block any of this stuff 'cause our threshold snaps back into it. So be conscious of that. I did actually have to extend the length of our green wire. It fell short. And even if we mounted our module box a little bit lower down on the driver's side, I think it would still be really, really close. You may need to pick up an additional blue butt connector and two or three foot of wire, which we carry that stuff here at etrailer. But so I extended it and just like the other side, ran our wire up and the new green wire is gonna be for our right turn. And so the factory wire that we tapped into is the black wire with the green stripe. And I did that using a quick splice just like we did on the other side. So back over here on the driver's side, I talked about how we ran our wires through a grommet to the outside of our vehicle. Our power wire went through it as well as our four-way flat connector. And that's where the grommet is. You just lift up on your carpet, you could see it. You popped that grommet out and put a little slice in it. That way it can run the wires through it and it's not gonna be rubbing up against bare metal. Put it back in. So now on the bottom side of your vehicle, we're over on the driver's side. This is where our four-way flat wiring and our power wire dropped out of. So that's grommet. Just a different view of it. I did take some RTV Silicon and just put a big blob on it right there where the wires come through just to take that extra precautionary step to keep everything sealed up. First wire we're gonna run it'll be our four-way flat connector. Just get that out the way real quick. So about right here is where it comes out of our grommet, comes along tight against our hitch. 'Cause when you route the wires, you wanna avoid any hot or moving parts and so do your best to keep it away from exhaust. But it just comes in behind our bumper here and drops down right here next to our hitch where I have it connected to our safety chain opening. Our power wire, so this part here is tricky to see 'cause I had to really tuck it off over our suspension components and our rear subframe back here. But that wire's gonna go on top of our subframe. You can see where I have a zip tie holding it there. Another one there. You can actually probably catch a little piece of that wire right there, but it's gonna continue on. See a piece of it there where it runs down along through here. And then underneath this panel, so this panel there's several 10 millimeter plastic screws just like this one here. If you loosen them up, you can now pull it down. But pretty smooth sail, and from here, the wire essentially just follows our factory brake lines. So every now and again, I just zip tied it up. And then obviously when you're done running this, you can resecure your panel. But from here, it's gonna go up through this opening and into the engine compartment. And the way I was able to get it up there is if you go from up top and drop a fish wire down, so like a piece of tubing or an old coat hanger or something like that, you can drop it down where you want it to go, tape your your power wire to it down underneath here. And then when you go back up top, you can pull up on that fish wire and bring that power wire right where you need it to go. So now here up in the engine compartment, we can get ready to hook up to our battery. So here's where our wire comes up and I connected it to the included fuse holder. So just how we made that other connection, stripped back the insulation, crimp on a butt connector. The other end of our fuse holder is gonna receive a ring terminal. Well, this butt connector might look a little bit different than the one you have. This is a heat shrink one. I opted to use this one under the hood and just keeps the connection protected a little bit better against corrosion and things like that. The one that comes into kit will work just fine. Especially if you put a little bit of tape around it, but if you'd rather get one of this, you can always grab it here at etrailer. With that said, you wanna make sure the fuse is not installed just yet. And our positive battery post, there's gonna be a 10 millimeter nut on it. And a lot of times these aren't designed to come completely off, which exactly what this one did. You can force it off, but then you mess up the threads and it's a big pain. So soon as that nut stops, just leave it like that. Don't force it. What we're gonna do is take our ring terminal and cut an opening in it. And what I like to do is to just make it a little bit smaller too 'cause that stud isn't very big. So this will hopefully give us a little better connection, but something like that. Make that opening just large enough and find a good way to sneak this in here. You'll put it around the stud there and then we can tighten it up back down. And then once this is completely tight, once that is tight then we can take our fuse. I'm gonna use the 15 amp fuse, place that into the holder and close up the cover. Now it's a good idea to test our wiring to make sure that it is working properly. I'm using a tester like this. And I do that to bypass any potential issues that our trailer might have. If you wanna use this tester, you can always grab one here at etrailer. We'll try our left turn signal, our right turn signal, our brakes, and our running lights. But now that we verified our wiring is working properly, I went ahead, came back here, and just put everything back the opposite way that we we're removed it. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Tekonsha four-way flat vehicle wiring harness on our 2022 Volkswagen Taos..


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