Tekonsha OEM Replacement Vehicle Wiring Installation - 2019 Ford Transit T250

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How to Install the Tekonsha OEM Replacement Vehicle Wiring on a 2019 Ford Transit T250

Ryan: Ryan here at etrailer.com. Today on our 2019 Ford Transit 250 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install a Tekonsha OEM replacement vehicle wiring harness with a seven way as well as the brake controller adapter.Since Transit vans are really capable vehicles, many of our customers use them to do a little bit of everything, so whether it's work or play, you're going to have the capability to tow a trailer and transfer the lighting functions from the back of the van to the back of the trailer. That way other motorists know your intentions as you're going down the road.Now the best thing about this is not only is it going to give you a seven way plug with all of your functions, but it's also going to give you the ability to use a brake controller and that's something you don't find too much all in one kit. Usually if that's something you wanted to do, you'd have to get multiple kits and kind of piece them all together. But this one, it's all here in one kit and it's really easy to use and figure out.Now since this kit provides us only with the seven way, one thing some of our customers ask about is if they're still going to have the ability to have a four way flat trailer connector as well as the seven way. Well there is multiple different types of combinations as far as a seven way combined with a four way.

That's available here at etrailer.com so if that's something you're interested in, you're going to have no problem finding something that'll give you that solution.And since it comes with this brake controller adapter, you're able to easily plug into your brake controller. That way if you're towing a trailer that has brakes, you're going to be able to apply those brakes and remain safe.Now as far as a brake controller adapter goes, it is going to be compatible with quite a few different types of brake controllers. It's going to work with the Tekonsha Voyager like we have here today, as well as the Prodigy, P2, P3, Primus IQ and PowerTrac. It's also going to work with the Draw-Tite Activator, Activator II, as well as the Activator III.And one of the great things too is the fact that this uses a module box. Now what that module box is going to do is protect your vehicle's factory wiring if a short or anything like that we're to occur on the trailer side.Now we're going to have a power output of 4.2 amps per circuit for our stop and turn signals and 7.5 amps per circuit for our taillights.

So more or less what that means is that's going to give us more than enough power to pull a trailer with either a lot of LED lights or even a lot of traditional style incandescent bulbs.Now the seven way isn't just going to put out those lighting signals. It's also going to put out that brake output signal for our brake controller and our trailer brakes. And it's also going to have the 12 volt auxiliary power. A 12 volt auxiliary power comes especially in handy whenever you're towing a trailer with a battery on it. So for example, a small camper or utility trailer that might have a winch on it, something like that.

That 12 volt power is actually going to charge those batteries as you're pulling the trailer down the road.Now compared to some of the other options available that's going to provide you with a seven way and a way to hook up a brake controller, this one is going to be much more simple and straightforward. You're only going to need two things, the kit and a brake controller. As opposed to those other options where you're going to kind of have to piece everything together and really think about what you need to make everything work properly.And since it is one big harness, it's going to be really well built. The whole entire harness is going to have this wire loom already on it and it's almost going to look factory.Now as far as the installation goes, it is a little time consuming, but it is straightforward and not all that hard to get it figured out. You should have no problem getting it done at home, even in your driveway.

Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put it on together now.To begin our installation, we're going to be here at the back of the van, and we're first going to need to remove our taillights. So let's go ahead and open up our doors.So our tail lights they're going to be held in, in the inside there's going to be two T25 torx bit screws. So go ahead and pull those out. And we should be able to work it out. It may be a little easier to close the door or come around to the other side of the van to get it completely removed.So if the light is really tight in there you can kind of wiggle it around to help loosen it up. And another trick you can kind of do is hold the light steady and take the palm of your hand and sometimes you can get these alignment pins to come out that way. Once we have the light out though, you're just going to disconnect it. If you come down here to our electrical connector, simply push in on this tab and pull the plug out. Let me just set this off to the side for now.And right here on the inside of the van, there's going to be a little panel and we can take that out. It's more or less an access panel. So to get these out you can just grab the top and pull out just a little bit and then you can just push up on it and that'll release it. Now the other side of the van is set up the same way as far as the tail light goes and this panel, so we'll just repeat that process over there.So now if you move underneath our van along this beam here, there's going to be a large black grommet. And we're going to pull that out to give us access to up inside of the van. So take it out, flat head screwdriver or something like that, and kind of pry behind it and pop it out that way. I'm going to do the same thing on the other side.Now we can start to run our wiring from the bottom side of the van up into the inside. We're going to go through this pocket that we've created by removing our access panels. Now to make it a little easier, you can use a pull wire. I'm using a piece of nylon tubing however, you could use a coat hanger or something like that too. What you're going to do is run it from inside, down and we're trying to get this to drop out through that bottom side where we removed that access.So here's where our pull wire came down through that access panel. And what we've done is take our wiring, the T connector end here that has the yellow and brown wires, and we've taped it to that pull wire. And so now we can grab the other side of the pull wire and start to feed that up.Now we're able to get our T connector hooked up. So what we're going to do is come over here to our factory taillight wiring. We're going to take this grommet and kind of squeeze it in, actually push it inside here. Now this end is going to get connected to one end of our T connector. So just line those up, plugging into each other. And this end, it's going to have this grommet already attached. We're actually going to feed that back into this opening and now this will be our new taillight connector.Now we can kind of just tuck our wiring into that pocket and reinstall our panel. Then we can grab our taillight, get that plugged back in. We're just going to reinstall it the opposite way that we removed it.Now back underneath the van along this beam here in this access panel, we can mount up our module box. So what you want to do is clean it off real good with some rubbing alcohol as well as the surface. Now the surface I'm going to use is right inside of here. That way it's covered up kind of. So I went ahead and cleaned all that off. We're going to take our two sided sticky tape, peel that backing paper off, get it pressed on to the module box, going to peel that other side off. I can lift it up into position and stick it to the body of the vehicle.Now we can take the white wire that comes out of the module box, it's going to have this pre-attached ring terminal. We're going to ground that out. Now you can either find a stud that's already on the body of our vehicle and use that as a grounding point. However, I really don't see one all that close by. So what I'm going to do is just use a self tapping screw which you can find here at etrailer and secure it to this thick sheet metal here on the body of our vehicle.So now at this point you can go ahead and start to run some of your wiring and here's how I did it. This short end here, this is going to get connected to our seven way plug. So I just ran that over this beam over to our hitch where we're going to eventually hook or to plug up.Now there's going to be the other T connector wiring that we're going to have to run over to the passenger side. So here's what I did, I just ran it over that beam and up along through here. And eventually we'll come back and secure it all. Up over this beam and here's the T connector end. Now I'm going to use that same pull wire technique by taping it to the T connector and then we can pull up on this wire to bring this into the passenger side taillight pocket.So here's where our T connector came up through the passenger side, just like the other side. Go ahead and pull our fish wire off and now we can get this hooked up the same way that we did the other side. We'll push in that factory grommet. Feed our wire through. This will get connected to one end of our T connector. And again the other end of it with the grommet, it's going to get fed back into the taillight pocket. At this point we can grab our other taillight, get that plugged in and re-installed.So I went ahead and secured some of our wiring with some zip ties and this is how it looks. Just kind of used these black brackets here behind our bumper beam to keep our wiring up and out of the way.Now at this point since we're done using these access panels, what we can do is trim out little openings in them. That way we can reinstall them and have our wiring run through it.So to get our panels trimmed out, what I like to do is just kind of hold it up there and eyeball out where we would need to cut. This looks like this corner, maybe about an inch on each side and I like to cut it a little shy because you can always come back and trim off more if you need to. We'll flip that over and we'll actually just go with this square here. Let's start with that. I'm just using a pair of razor snips, it's pretty lightweight rubber material, so you could use a regular pair of snips or even a utility knife to get this done. Keep trying to work it in, and that's about spot on so we're going to go with that. And just do that same process for the other access panel.And just to try to help keep everything sealed up I'm going to use some RTV silicone, which you can find here at etrailer and kind of just run a bead around that opening. So that'll help keep any moisture or anything like that out of it.Now we can start to hook up our seven way plug. Now to get all of these wires exposed, they come with a bunch of electrical tape covering them, so you'll just want to peel that tape off and kind of separate them a little bit like this. Now these simply just plug into this connector, but there is a certain orientation that you need to plug these in. So we'll kind of go over that now where each one goes and what each one does.So we'll start here with this larger hole and the white wire is going to plug into that. That's going to be for your ground. And if we move down to this one here, the blue wire is going to plug into there and it's going to be for your trailer brakes. If we move to the one next to it, that's going to be your brown wire. That's going to be for turn and stop. The one next to that right here, that will be your black wire and that's going to be your 12 volt power. The one above it right here, that's going to be for your green wire, which will be for your taillights. The one next it right there, that's going to be for your red wire which will also be for your turn and stop. And finally the one in the center, that's going to be the yellow wire, which will be backup.Now the way to get these plugged in, we'll do the white one, is that the terminal here, that's only going to plug in one way. And so what you're going to do is take that terminal and get plugged in to it. So it'll simply push in. We'll push it all the way down and then you'll want to make sure to pull back on it to make sure it is completely seated. So if it doesn't come out, you know we're good to go. There might be a tiny bit of movement there, but that's to be expected. So that's what it will kind of look like once you have it plugged in on the other side. So I'm going to use that technique and that orientation to get the rest of our wires plugged in.And so this is what the back of our seven way will look like once everything is plugged in. If everything plugged in, we can grab this gray clip. It's going to act kind of as a retainer and what you're going to do is slide the wires through it and these ends here will kind of push into this side and you'll just push that down to keep it into place.We're going to grab some dielectric grease, which you can find here at etrailer and put a nice coat over these terminals and that'll help keep them protected from any corrosion or anything like that. We'll smear that on. And now we can actually hook this up to our seven way plug. So you want to put this through your bracket. Now I do want to mention that a bracket doesn't come included to get your seven way plug mounted, but if you need one you can find a bunch of different styles here at etrailer.com. We'll put that through. Grab our seven way plug, line up the two tabs on the plug with the tabs on the connector. I'm just going to push those two together until they're seated. Then you can go ahead and bolt up your seven way plug. To get your plug all tightened up what we can do now is finish running the rest of our wire up to the front of our van.To get our long length of wiring up to the front of the van by the battery, here's the path that I took. Just came up and over our hitch, right here along our spare tire. And I used some zip ties to secure it to the factory wiring. Now whenever you're routing your wiring you want to make sure to avoid any hot or moving parts. So I just kept following the factory wiring here and it kind of goes along through the side of our fuel tank and along the tank and in between these support straps. I kind of just was able to tuck it down into the plastic shield, then went, and it comes down right here. Still following it along.Now once we get to about this point, our battery, since it is located under our driver's seat, which is about right here in this area. We're going to figure out a way to get the end of our wiring up into the battery compartment.So right here in this area is where our battery is sitting up inside of the van. And I know that because if we see right here, since a battery is inside the van, that battery has to be vented. And so this is actually the vent tube. So what I'm looking for, since we know that vent tube comes down right through here, this whole area is relatively open. So what I think we're going to do is go inside the van and if he can make a hole in the battery box through the bottom of the van, so we can have a really easy time running our wiring directly where we need it to go.So here's that vent tube I was talking about and you can see it runs right down to the bottom there where it goes to the underside of the van. And since we we're just under there, we know we have quite a bit of room to work because there's nothing in the way. So what I think I'm going to do, is I made a mark right there in our battery box. I think that's where I'm going to drill. That way nothing will be in the way. They'll be a little spaced apart from each other and I think it'll just work really well. So I'm going to grab a drill bit and just carefully create a hole and that we can use.So here underneath the van, here's the hole that we drilled. Now what I'm going to do is just use a snap bushing like this that you can find here at etrailer and pop that up into place. Then we can take the end of our wiring, run that through and start to feed it up inside of the van.So here's what our wiring looks like once we have it completely ran up through that grommet. Now just to be on the safe side, we'll take some black silicone and just run a bead around it just to help keep everything sealed.So here's where our wiring came up through into the battery box. What I went ahead and done is cut and remove some of this wire loom that way we can work with just our bare wire here. So now we can work on getting these hooked up. And so we'll first start with the red one. The red one is going to go to the positive battery terminal. So to do that we're going to take a included fuse holder and put that on to the red wire. So I'll give us a little bit of extra wire to work with here and cut off the extra that we don't need. We're going to strip back that insulation, expose the bare wire underneath. Just give it a solid twist. I'm going to take one of the included heat shrink butt connectors, slide that on and crimp it down. And then we're going to grab the included fuse holder. And the one that we're using for the red wire is the 15 amp max one. So you want to make sure that the fuse is not installed. We'll peel off that insulation on each end and get that connected.Now I kind of like to get a little more wire to work with, so I'll just strip back a little bit more. Plug that into the butt connector and crimp it down. And on the other end, again I'll strip off a little more insulation. We're going to put on an included ring terminal. It just slides on and crimps down. Now we're not going to put this to the battery just yet. Just going to kind of pre assemble it because there is a couple more wires that'll go to the batteries, so we're going to get all those ready that way we can just do it at one time.Now we can grab our black wire and do pretty much the same thing that we did here. Now the fuse holder that we're putting on the black wire will be the seven way harness power fuse, the 30 amp max. So I'm going to get that plugged in and connected. Again on the other end of it, I'm just going to take our ring terminal and connect it. Now with these two done, what we can do is grab a heat source and heat up our heat shrink that way it gets nice and sealed.Now the blue wire, this one's going to have to get ran towards the front, kind of underneath our dash area. And so what I've done is just used a small drill bit and drilled a hole there in the very front corner of our battery box so we can just take that blue wire and feed it through.So here's where our blue wire that we ran out of our battery box came out and for right now we're just going to kind of let this hang out here and we can focus on getting our brake control harness all connected.So the first wire that we're going to hook up from our brake control harness is going to be the blue one. Now this is simply just going to get connected to the blue one that we ran out of our battery box. So we'll take our butt connector and pair those two together.The next one we can focus on will be the black wire. Now this is actually going to get connected to the positive battery terminal as well. So what we're going to do to give us a little more room to run our wires and work with is actually just extend the length of our black wire and we're going to do that using the leftover black wire that we had trimmed off from inside of the battery box. So we'll clean up the end and pair the two together again using a butt connector.So what we can do once we have that extension paired is take the end of it and just run it through the opening that we created to run our blue wire out of the box.The next wire we can do is this white wire. Now this is going to be a ground wire and I kind of looked up underneath the dash and around the immediate area and I just really didn't find a great spot that we could ground this to. So what I figured we'd do, since we already have an opening in our battery box is to just extend this wire too, run it into the battery box and then we can just ground it directly to the battery.Now I'm just using a piece of white wire to extend it that I had laying around, but we do still have that leftover red wire that we cut from inside of the battery box earlier, so you could either use that or find some extra white wire here at etrailer.com. Now since we are extending these wires, we did use up all the included butt connectors, so you will need a handful of extras if you want to do it this way. Again, you can find them here at etrailer. Going to grab the other bare end of the wire and run that through the opening as well into our battery box.Now the next one will be this red wire. Now this is going to get attached to the cold side of our brake switch, so we're going to need to identify which wire that is. So to do that, this panel right here, we're going to get that out of the way to get really easy access to our wires. And this just pops off, you can just grab it with your hands and kind of work it out of the way. Now our brake switch is going to be this plug right here. There's going to be four wires in the back of it and one of those is going to be our cold side brake signal. So to figure out which one is the correct one, I'm going to test it using a test light here and we're going to put the tester onto each one of the terminals. And what we're looking for is to not have any power right off the bat, but we want our test light to light up whenever the brake pedal is pushed down.See this first wire here is doing that. It's only giving us power when we're applying the brake. So chances are pretty good that's going to be it, but to be on the safe side, we'll try the rest of them. You have nothing there, nothing there. And this one we're going to have power all the time, so we know that's not it. So the wire right here, it's going to be purple with a white stripe. That's going to be our brake signal.The way that we're going to connect our red wire to the purple and white wire here on the brake switch is using a quick splice connector. And the way this works is we're going to push this over that purple and white wire. Just like that. We're going to grab our red wire and make sure you go in behind the dash and up and connect it because if you connect it without it going inside of the dash like this here then you're going to have to redo it once you try to put everything back together because the wire will be hanging outside. And the red wire is going to go into the next slot just like that. And then we can grab a pair of pliers and you're going to push this tab down here and that's going to move down and splice in and connect them two wires together. Just squeeze that down. Try to do it nice and evenly. You can close up that cap. What I like to do is come back and just cut off this little bit of extra on this end here.Now just to be on the safe side to make sure that this connection is solid, since we are having a little bit of red wire still poking through that's exposed, I'm going to use a test light to test that to make sure that those two wires actually got connected together. So we're getting that signal on the red wire so we know that it's properly connected.What I've done is just secured our red wire, any extra that was hanging down and I just did it over here with a zip tie and I also just roughly secured our actual connector end here and I like to give more than enough slack because this is actually going to get connected to a brake controller and depending on where you want to mount it with all the extra cord, you're going to have a lot of different options. So we'll just set that aside for now. And with that done up there we can grab our panel, get it reinstalled. We're going to move to our other wires that we have running into the battery box. I'm going to use a heat source to get this heat shrink sealed and then we can work on kind of just running these along through some of these panels to try to keep them nice and hidden and then we can move on to hook them up in the battery box.So here's how I ran and hid our three wires that are going into our battery box. Beginning of the bundle of wires starts like right here. And so I simply just ran it along this bottom edge of the dash and that comes out. If you take your weatherstripping, just pull that up off the door. I was able to just run the wires into this opening down along through here. And once I got to this point, if you just grab the threshold and put a little tension on it in the upward direction, you can sneak those wires in along this whole entire edge. And then they go into that hole that we drilled there in the battery box.So back inside here at the battery box, here's our two wires that we ran in. We're going to get them hooked up. So we'll start with the white wire. It's going to be a ground, so all we're going to have to do is take one of the ring terminals, slide that on and crimp it down. The black wire, this one's going to go to the positive battery side. So we're going to take the last included fuse holder, which will be the brake control power fuse, be 30 amp max, and get that connected onto it. Grab a butt connector, going to crimp down onto the black wire that we ran in. And then we'll grab another included ring terminal on the other end of the fuse holder, connect that.So to get everything hooked up, we'll first start by hooking up our white ground. So if you come to the negative side of the battery terminal, I'm going to remove this nut using a 10 millimeter. I'll back that off. Slide a ring terminal over it, reinstall the nut and tighten it back down.Now we're going to hook up all of our fuse holders to the positive battery terminal, which is right here. We have two nuts that we can choose from. This one here that's closest to us and the one behind it. Now this one, this nut back here comes all the way off the stud, but it's in a position that it would kind of give us a weird angle to hook up all of our ring terminals. This one sits a little higher and is in a better position. So this is the one that we're going to use.I'll take a 10 millimeter and break it loose. Now this nut isn't designed to come completely off, so once you feel just a little bit of tension by hand, you can turn it another half turn or so and that'll create a space large enough that what we can do is take our ring terminals and cut small openings in them that way we're able to just kind of slide them in around that stud and sneak them in there that way. So what we'll do is take our ring terminals, clip out a small opening like that, we'll do that to all three. We're just going to kind of feed them in there one at a time. Once we have all three of them in there, we can tighten our nut back down.Now we're able to put our fuses in. Now the labels that are on the fuse holders tell you what size fuse they need. So for example, our tow harness power module power fuse, that's going to take the 15 amp fuse. You'll push that in, close up the dust cap. And do the same thing for the other two however the other two are both going to take 30 amp fuses. And these fuses are included by the way. So I went ahead and just used a couple of zip ties to bundle up all our wires and clean up our install look. And now at this point you can put your battery box all back together.And then we can come and plug our brake controller harness into our brake controller. Now our customer is still undecided on which particular brake controller he wants. So just for demonstration purposes I'm going to plug into one of our Tekonsha Voyagers here that way you can have an idea of how everything works. So right off the bat with our brake controller plugged in as you can see we have a green light on so we know this is getting power.Now if you come back here to our seven way that we put on, we can test all the functions coming out of it too. Now I'm just using tester box here, but if you don't have one of these, you can always use your trailer. So we'll first see if we're getting 12 volts back here, power, you turn that on. As you can see we got our voltage coming back so we know that's functioning. Now we can run through our lighting functions as well as hitting our brake controller override and make sure that our brake controller signal is working too.So here we can turn on our running lights, our left turn, our right turn, our stop lamps. And then if I hit the manual override on our brake controller, we should see that output on our tester as well as our brake lights should aluminate. So I'll go ahead and hit that now.Now that we verified everything is working properly, we're ready to hook up to our trailer and hit the road. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Tekonsha OEM vehicle replacement wiring harness on our 2019 Ford Transit 250.

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Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
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Employee David F
Installed by:
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Employee Joshua S
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Employee Dustin K
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Employee Jacob T
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