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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Chevrolet Cruze

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2013 Chevrolet Cruze


Hi there, Chevy owners. Today in your 2013 Chevrolet Cruze, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Tekonsha's 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, what vehicle wiring harness. This is not gonna be the traditional way that you install it, but we did mount it here at the back of the vehicle. Got our little tester that we had plugged into it there. And it's mounted to brackets that do not come included with the kit, but you can purchase these brackets here at etrailer if you wanted to make it look just like ours here. This harness is actually designed to stay inside of your vehicle though here in the trunk area, so that way you just pull up your rear compartment and drape it over the back and then you just shut your trunk and that'll pinch it between the weather stripping.

That's not gonna damage your wiring in any way. It's gonna just hold it there so you can easily plug it into your trailer. Now, if you wanted to, you could do like what our customer did, and they wanted it routed outside the vehicle, so it's underneath. And we, again, we have the components to be able to do this, but I really do not recommend mounting it underneath. This particular vehicle's very low to the ground.

It's gonna be very exposed down here to debris bouncing up off the road. There's a lot of moisture that's gonna now be exposed to that it would have been inside the trunk. And honestly, I find it a lot harder to utilize located down this low. I'm a pretty tall guy, I'm a little over six feet tall, and I can't even see this connector without laying on the ground, really. So I don't particularly like that.

I'd prefer it to be in the trunk, that way I don't have to bend over. I can kind of just grab down, hook it up to my trailer, and be on my way. But you can do it either way. It will still function regardless of how you choose to install it. If you did want to install it this way, we are gonna show how to install it here on the outside.

If you don't wanna do it this way, then we just mention you just have to leave it here in the back. But we do show routing it out. You are gonna have to cut the wiring in order to do so to get it out here and resplice it back together. So you will need some additional components beyond those brackets to route it out like we did here. But our wiring harness is gonna do everything that we expect it to do. It's gonna give us all of our lighting signals for our trailer to keep us DOT-compliant in all states. This includes our left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps. And with this harness, it does have a module that will monitor all the lighting signals. We'll simply just plug in line. It's a custom fit harness, so we don't actually have to tap into the wiring by cutting into it. We have connectors that'll just simply plug right in to our taillight assemblies here. And then that module will just, whenever one of those lights come on, the module will see that it comes on. It has its own dedicated power circuit that's routed up to the front of the vehicle. It utilizes that dedicated power to recreate whatever signals here are on our vehicle's lights, and it will send that out our 4-Pole Flat to our trailer. What's nice about that is rather than just tapping into your lights here, if you just tap into 'em, your trailer is also drawing current from your factory circuits, and it could potentially overload the circuit. By having a module that has its own dedicated power wire and it's reproducing those signals, we're never going to be using power from our vehicle to power our trailer. It will be from that module's dedicated power wire. So in the event you do have a short or something like that on your trailer, it won't affect the operation of your vehicle in any way. It may just open the fuse for the dedicated power wire that's for our module here. Now the module does have a chance to potentially shut down a circuit if it's able to detect it in time. And if it's not, that fuse will open. You can then just repair your trailer, replace your fuse, and recheck for operation. Everything should be good to go at that point if you prepared the trailer, and you can head on your way. So now that we've taken some of the look at the features of our wiring here, if you follow along the list, we'll show you how to get it installed and show you how to get it routed out here to the outside. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle. Go ahead and open up your trunk. We need to access both the passenger and driver's side taillight connectors that are located behind the paneling roughly at about this location. So we're gonna pull these off so we can get to those. Now this vehicle is already heavily modified. So it is gonna change a few things. How we're gonna do it, but we're gonna tell you what you would normally need to do. So the first thing we'd wanna do would be to take your trunk flooring out. This should just lift up and pull out of here. Our customer has got aftermarket stereo system in there that's holding it in place so we're gonna, we're just gonna work around it. After you get that out of there, it'll reveal a couple of fasteners that are located here in the paneling. You can actually see 'em without removing the paneling, but it would be located here. Our customer was missing these fasteners so they're not there. So we're just gonna pull our paneling off, but you would wanna remove those. They should be similar to the fasteners we see here on the outside. So I'll show you taking one of these off because we're gonna need to remove these as well. So we'll do this as our example of how you would remove those. So if you look at the pin there, it has an opening on one side. So take the blade of your screwdriver or trim tool, fit it into that little groove there, and then just pop that on up. And once you get it popped up like that, you can put your trim tool behind the whole thing, and it'll pop out of there. So that's how we've been removing those pins. So we've already, we already know that they're just missing from this paneling so we're just gonna pull this paneling up. And after you've removed the pins to remove the paneling, you just kind of pull upward on it just like that to get that out of the wave. Now that we've got that piece out of the way, we're gonna start removing the pins for these side panels. So we've already removed the one that was up here. We're gonna have another one down here we're gonna remove. And that should probably be enough for us to get our panels out, but we may or may not need to remove this. We'll assess it after we get the pins out and fold that back to see what we got to work with there. So after removing both these pins, just gonna peel this back some, and there's our connector located right there. So we're gonna disconnect our connector here. This gray tab here pulls off first. You're gonna pull that back. That is the lock tab that prevents it from being able to be released. Once it pull, it's pulled back, you can press down on the release tab and slide the connector off of there. So now we'll take our new harness here. This is the module. We want the yellow and brown wires that you see here. You can see the connector end looks just like the one that we disconnected. This is just gonna plug in line in between that connector, so just go ahead and peel this back again. Grab your connector, plug it in. You can go ahead and push the lock tab back on. Over on the other side, and plug that side in. We'll then just take our wiring here and just kind of route it down, back behind the paneling a little bit there. All right. So now we need to take the red and green circuits that you see here. And these are gonna route over to the other side. So we're just taking our red and green now, just bringing this across. We're gonna be sticking it kind of underneath the paneling and stuff to hide it. Peel back this side. We'll disconnect our connector the same way. Take our new harness, plug it in. And then we're just gonna tuck that wiring down behind the paneling there. Now we're on our module here. We got a couple of wires that are still coming out of it. You've got your red one here. This is our power wire. And we've got our white one here with a ring terminal on it, that's our ground. The other thing's coming out of it, this is your four-pole for your trailer that you'll just plug in. So we shouldn't really need to do much with this. We are gonna be doing a little bit with it, but if you're doing this at home, you can choose to follow with us or just leave it as it is, and we'll get to that here in a bit. So we're gonna hook up the ground wire now. We're gonna install our module here behind the paneling and stuff back in here. So we're gonna use this piece of paneling here 'cause it's not the outside paneling of the vehicle. We can actually just run our self-tapping screw right into the paneling there. This is the self-tapping screw that comes in your kit. You'll need a quarter-inch socket to run it into place. There we go. We've got that guy installed. So next, we're gonna take care of the red wire. Now the red wire, we have a bunch of black wire in our kit. This eventually will need to go all the way up to the front to connect to our battery. So we're gonna use the black wire that comes in our kit as the lead to make that distance. So we can go ahead and hook that up now. So we're just gonna take our black wire, strip it back, take that connector that comes in your kit, slide it over the black wire, crimp it on down. And then we'll slide it on down to the next spot there, put our red wire off of our module inside the black connector and crimp it down. All right, so now that we've got that made, we gotta get this routed up to the front. So I'm gonna go ahead and route that wire now and then I'll show you the path that I took to get there. The thing that we we're talking about a minute ago with this four-pole, now, normally, you would just leave this four-pole wiring here in your trunk. It's designed from the manufacturer to stay in the trunk of your vehicle. It protects it against rust, corrosion, dirt, debris, everything else. It stays much safer if it's here in the trunk. So that's why they do it that way. But our customer doesn't want it in the trunk. They want it outside just for quick and easy connection. And we can do that. It does have a dust cap on it there to help prevent corrosion and dirt and stuff like that from entering it, but it's never gonna be as good as it would be if it just stayed in the trunk. But to get this outside, we're gonna route it through the same grommet that we're gonna be routing this out of. But the end of our connector here is way too big to pass through any grommet. So we are gonna have to cut all of our wires here and reconnect them back together. If you're wanting to put this outside, that's how you're gonna have to do it. Just cut 'em all and then wire 'em all back together, color from color. You don't get any butt connectors in the kit to do this because it wasn't designed to do that. So you're gonna have to ride all of your own butt connectors, and I highly recommend heat shrink ones to protect them from corrosion. The grommet we're gonna use to route it out, if you pull back on our paneling here a little bit towards the floor, there's a grommet right there, right there on the floor. It's painted gray. So that's the grommet we're gonna use. I'm gonna drill a hole down through the grommet. We're using about a 3/8 bit to do so. And that'll be big enough just to get our wiring through. We'll use a little bit of black silicone on top of that to seal it back up so that way, no exhaust gases or moisture and things like that can get inside the trunk of the vehicle. All right, and then we'll just connect them back together here. And again, this is, you only gotta do this step if you're wanting the wiring to be routed outside. I personally recommend that you leave it in the back of the vehicle. All right, and I will mount this guy. I think we're just gonna put it right there. So next thing we're gonna do is mount up our module now. We're gonna use the double sided adhesive that comes in our kit to do so. And we're just gonna put it on the paneling right here just underneath our ground there. And that'll be plenty fine, and you can kind of just tuck this back up under your weather stripping. Just like that. And you can see everything's nicely hidden back behind there. So now we just gotta take our black wire that we route it out, route it up to the front towards our battery. So I'm gonna do that now, and then I'll show you the path I took. Our wiring comes out our grommet here. We take both the four-pole that we we're routing as well as our power wire. We go down and around the frame and we take the power wire and we actually looped it around the hitch, 'cause we're trying to stay away from this hot exhaust here. So that way, we're able to go above the hitch, stay above it, keeping it away from this hot exhaust. 'Cause we wanna avoid any moving things like our suspension and anything hot like our exhaust here. We hit the heat shield here and we stay up above the heat shield until we get to right about here. Here, we poke out, stay on the side, and then we go over to the, there's a little spot here, we put a cable tie and then we also went up to the parking brake cable here and secured it there. 'Cause we're, again, we're just trying to avoid this exhaust here. It's a real unfortunate place for running our wire. From there, after that, we get over to this side because you can poke it right in the back of the frame here and this way it'll protect it from stuff on the bottom of the road. So we just stay in the frame going forward. I did put a couple of cable, you know, I put a cable tie on it there just to try to keep it in that position. Once we get up here towards the front, we do come out one of the holes and go above this cross brace here. And from here, we just kind of go up into the engine compartment. Now to get the wire fed up here, I actually used a pole wire, just took a piece of airline tubing from above and poked it down, taped my wiring to it, and then pulled it back up to get that up there. If you're doing this at home, probably don't have airline tubing, but I bet you got a metal coat hanger that you can undo and poke that down, tape your wiring to it, and just pull that coat hangar back up to get it up top. Our wiring pulls up right here next to our reservoir. I went ahead and put a cable tie on it just to the vacuum line right there. And then we just routed it across the back here towards our battery. The cover here just lifts up. This is one of the release tabs there. Just kind of pick up on that and you can pull that cover back. We'll attach it to our positive post right here and we are gonna trim our wiring now. We've got way more than we need here. So we're gonna take about here and we'll just trim this off. We can now take our wire here, strip it back. We're gonna place a butt connector on it. And this is why I recommend not using the one that comes in the kit and using heat shrink ones since we're outside the vehicle now where we are exposed to moisture and dirt. You can get these at etrailer if you need some. Crimp it on there. And then on the other side of that butt connector, we're gonna put the harness, the fuse harness that comes in our kit. So just kind of open that thing up there. It's all kind of plowed up. It is looped so you'll have to cut it, and then we'll strip back each end after cutting it. One end of our harness is going to attach to the black connector that we just put on our black wire here. Clamp it down. And the other end of our harness is going to get a ring terminal. I'll crimp that on there. We'll use our 13 millimeter to remove the nut. Simply just take your fuse harness, route that over, slide it onto the terminal, and then just reinstall the nut. And it should poke out the side here, so we should still be able to reinstall our cover. That'll still snap down on there. And now we're gonna take the butt connector that we put on here and we're gonna grab our heat gun and shrink it down. We'll now insert the fuse that comes in our kit into our fuse harness here. And now at this point, we can plug in our tester to check it out or we could plug into our trailer, but I do highly recommend a tester because if you have faults on your trailer, you could get inaccurate readings that might make you think there's an issue with your wiring when really it's a fault on the trailer. So here at the back of the hitch, you can see, I did use one of the no drill brackets you can purchase here at etrailer along with the four-pole mounting bracket and just kind of use that to strap it around our hitch and mount up our connector. So we're gonna go ahead and test it now. We got our tester plugged in. We're using our left turn signal, and we wanna verify that on our tester as well as our right turn signal, our tail lamps, and our brake lamps. With all of our lighting signals working properly, we can go ahead and reinstall any components we removed in our trunk in reverse order of how we removed them. And that completes our installation of Tekonsha's Four-Pole Flat, Trailer Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on our 2013 Chevrolet Cruze..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

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