Tekonsha Prodigy RF Wireless Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Ford Edge

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How to Install the Tekonsha Prodigy RF Wireless Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Ford Edge

Speaker 1: Today on our 2014 Ford Edge, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha Prodigy RF wireless trailer brake controller, part number 90250. Unlike most brake controllers, our Prodigy RF is going to give us a handheld unit that's going to stay inside of our car that's going to be permanently paired to our trailer, rather than having a controller mounted to our dash itself.Here's the unit that's going to pair with that handheld unit inside the car. This is what actually is going to give us all of our braking source and everything. It is a proportional brake controller, which means it's going to apply the brakes to our trailer at the same intensity and at the same time that our car does, opposed to time-delayed brake controllers.What you're really going to like about the fact that it mounts to the trailer instead of inside the car is that, opposed to traditional brake controllers where you have to run your seven way and your wires up to the battery inside, tap into your brake switch and all of that, all we're going to have to provide back at the seven way is a 12-volt power source. So we're not going to have to worry about tapping into our vehicle's braking system because it is wireless.Inside of our box, there's going to be an inertia sensor that's going to determine how much we're slowing down by the deceleration of our trailer. There's also a level in there that's going to compensate for going up and down hills so no matter what angle we're at, we're going to get nice proportional braking.Like most brake controllers, it's going to have the same type of settings.

You're going to have your maximum power knob to the right here, and we can turn it all the way down to where it's flashing zero. We can go all the way up, and if we hit the manual override, they'll let us know that it's at 12, which that's going to be in volts.Also, like most brake controllers, it's going to have a boost setting. This button here at the top, you're going to have three different settings. Boost one, two, three, as well as off, but each boost setting is going to ramp up the aggressiveness or how quickly the brakes are going to reach the maximum power. The higher the setting it goes, the more aggressive and quicker it's going to reach that maximum power.

We're going to know that the boost is on by that second dot past the C, and if we have it off we can see that second dot goes away.Again, our brake controller's going to have most of the same features that all proportional brake controllers have. But what really makes this stand out is the fact that it's wireless, we don't have to tap into our vehicle's braking system, and all we have to do is provide a 12-volt power source at the back of our seven way. Now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.In order to get our Prodigy RF in place, we're going to already have to have some existing four pole wiring and then also a seven way at the back. On our website we do carry a full line of four pole wiring for your light functions, as well as the seven way adapter. Our seven way is an adapter that goes from a four to a seven, so we're going to have three extra wires, plus the ground wire.In each seven way, the blue wire coming off the back is going to be for your brake output signal.

In ours, this one is a yellow wire. Yours may be purple, but that's going to be your reverse signal. Then the black wire is going to be your power lead, which eventually is going to have to go up to the battery to get power. Then, again, the white wire is going to be for your ground.Just so you're aware, the way we got our seven pole adapter in place, since there's really not a good spot on the edge with this particular hitch to mount it to, we actually took the mounting plate and mocked everything up, marked it, and drilled the hole. The plate is actually on the back side with some washers, and it's sandwiched right here in between the fascia.First thing we're going to do is we're going to put our ground in place.

I'm just going to take a self tapping screw and I'm going to screw it right into the sheet metal at the bottom here. Because our Prodigy RF is a wireless brake controller, we're not going to be using the brake output signal or the reverse light signal because in our application we're not hooking up a reverse light. So we're only going to be using the black wire, which is going to be our hot lead, providing us 12 volts at the back.Most kits do have a pre-installed butt connector on there. I'm going to cut ours off and be replacing it with a heat shrink butt connector to give it a little bit more protection. If you need some of these, you can pick some up on our website using part number DW05745-5. That'll be for a pack of five of them. Strip back the end, slide our butt connector over the stripped end, and crimp it into place.You're going to need to pick up some wire. I got about somewhere in between 16, maybe 20 foot of wire. I don't know if you're going to need all that, but about 15 foot of wire because you're going to want to come from this back of this connector all the way up to the battery, and we're going to have to route it from underneath, avoiding any of the heat sources or moving parts. So you want to make sure you have enough room to route everything. Strip back the end, connect it to our black wire, and crimp it down.I do want to mention that when you do pick up some wire you want to get the right size gauge wire, because there is going to be quite a bit of power going through this wire. So you want to make sure you get at least 10 gauge wire. You can pick some up on our website using part number 10-1-1, and that's going to be wire by the foot. Since these are a heat shrink butt connector, I'm going to go ahead and use a heat gun to shrink it down. I just want to mention if you are using an open flame you want to be extra careful not to char or burn the connector or the wires themselves.As I mentioned before, we're going to have to run this wire up to the battery. So I'm going to run it up to the front underneath, and once I have that done I'll go ahead and show you how I routed it. My wire, I ran it underneath the heat shield so I'd have a little bit of protection from the exhaust. Then, once it came out on the other side, I actually wrapped a little bit of wire loom. That way, it would have a little bit more protection. I went over the subframe, followed along, came down by my fuel tank here, went underneath this cover, continued along, finally coming out right here.Then, again, I need a little bit more wire loom. We got a lot of different sizes available. I always just suggest getting the same amount of wire loom that you get that you have wire. That way, you know you have enough. But you really only need it where there's going to be some heat sources. That's why I put it right here, because we're going to need to go up into the engine. I'll show you how we're going to do that.The end goal is to get that wire up to the positive post of our battery. I'm going to take a piece of airline tube, and you can use whatever you have laying around, even if it's just a coat hanger. You want something sturdy that's going to hold its shape. I'm going to start feeding my airline tube down towards the bottom of my car so I can meet up with that wire and pull it up. Again, you just want to avoid any kind of moving parts or any major heat sources. It may be a little difficult, but just with a little bit of patience, just start routing that wire down there.My airline tube came out right at the back of the firewall here. I'm just going to take the end of my wire and, if I can, I'm going to put a little bit in the inside of my airline tube and then secure it with some electrical tape. Let's move back up to the engine and pull it through. Once you start pulling your wire up, you're going to want to make sure you get all of the slack out because you don't want to end up with a big wad underneath and you get caught when you're driving down the road.Before we attach our wire to the positive post of our battery, we do want to put in a breaker. You're going to want to grab a 40 amp breaker. We do have a wide variety of different styles on our website, different mounting locations and tabs, just depending on how you want to mount it. Ours we're going to mount right here, right at the strut tower. I'm going to take a couple of those self-tapping screws that we have from earlier. We're just going to drive them right in and have the breaker mounted right in the corner here.I just bent my breaker up just a little bit from the mounting tabs. That way, I have a little bit more clearance for my fuse box here. We're going to estimate about how much wire we're going to need to reach the breaker itself. We're going to cut the wire we ran and strip it back. Now we're going to take a small ring terminal and slide it over the stripped end. You can pick some of these up on our website as well. We're just going to crimp it down. We're going to be attaching this to the silver post. If you look real close on your breaker, it's going to say AUX. You're going to take your ring terminal and you're going to slide it over the post, and then reinstall that nut.We're going to take the excess wire that we had from running it. We're going to estimate about how much we need to go from the breaker to the battery, and we're going to cut it and strip back both ends. On one of the ends, we're going to crimp on the same size ring terminal that we did that goes on our breaker. On the other end, we'll be crimping on another larger ring terminal. That's purely just because you want to get a ring terminal that's going to be large enough that you can slide over the post on the battery.You're going to remove the nut off the copper post. If you look close, that one's going to say BAT for battery. We're going to take our jumper wire, slide it over the post, and then reinstall that nut. Now you're going to want to grab a 10 millimeter socket. We're going to remove the nut right on the positive post. Slide the ring terminal over, then replace the nut.With all of our connections made, now would be a good time to go back to the back, make sure all your wires are nice and tidy and everything looks nice, and go ahead and tighten up the connections at the breaker as well. Before we keep moving on, we need to make sure that we are getting power to the back of our seven way. Our particular seven way connector has a built-in tester to let us know which functions are working, and an LED light. We can see that the 12-volt power source is working.But in case yours doesn't have one I'll show you how to do it with a regular circuit tester. You're going to want to have a good ground. Then, when you open it up, looking at your tester, you're going to want to check the pin that's at the 1:00 position. We can clearly see that my tester's lighting up and making noise at the 1:00 position and not at any of the other ones, so we know we're getting power. Now we can go ahead and move on to the trailer part of our install.We're going to need to mount our power module on our trailer itself. Now, since it's a proportional braking system, it's going to need to be pretty in line with the direction of the trailer, so you don't want to mount it too much of an angle. The way our frame is here, since it's a C channel frame, we're going to have to mount it on the inside, where it's nice and flat. In addition to being in line with the direction of travel, we're going to want to have that sticker facing up.On the end we're going to have two mounting holes on each side. They do provide us with four self-tapping screws that we're going to be putting directly into the frame. Once you get the first one started, you're going to want to leave it a little loose just so you can still move the control box. That way, you can get the rest of them in place and not have to worry about the angle it's at.Once you have your module mounted securely on the frame of your trailer, you can go ahead and take your trailer's seven way connector and we're going to be plugging it in to the seven way on the box. Just want to make sure you have a secure connection. Then, once you have that plugged in, you can go ahead and take the excess wire and tie it up so it's nice and neat. In order to pair our control box to the handheld unit that's going to go inside the car, we're going to need to unplug the trailer from the box itself for now, and we're going to need to plug the box in directly to our vehicle.You're going to want to go ahead and start your car at this point, and we're going to take the handheld unit and plug it into a 12-volt outlet inside of our car. Here on the right hand side of the unit, we're going to turn the knob all the way down until we get a double flashing zero. Then we're going to fully depress both the manual override button and the boost button. That's going to be on the side here and on the top right. We're going to fully depress both of those and it's going to flash P5 until it starts flashing PA, just like this.Once this has been reached, we're going to go ahead and release both of them and we're going to press and hold the brake pedal on the vehicle until we get a double zero that's flashing. Now it's been set, and now all we need to do is rotate the power knob up to something greater than zero. We can just go ahead and turn it up, and we should have an NC flashing, which means that it's not connected. So we can go back to our trailer and plug it up.We can take our trailer's connector, plug it back into the module. Let's go back inside and make sure everything's still working. Now that we come back inside we see that there's a .C. That's going to stand for connected, so we know automatically that our trailer's connected. With everything connected, we can hit the road and start setting our brake controller up.That'll finish up our look at the Tekonsha Prodigy RF wireless trailer brake controller, part number 90250, on our 2014 Ford Edge.

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