Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Express Van

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How to Install a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller on a 2017 Chevrolet Express Van


Today on 2017 Chevrolet Express Van, you're going to be taking a look at, and I'll show you how to install, the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller. To help us get this installed, we're going to be installing Etrailer's ETBC7.So now, let's go over some of the functions. This is going to be your power knob. This is going to allow you to adjust how much power, or braking power, you're receiving on your trailer. So, if we pull our manual override button, which is just down here, you can see it's going up to eleven. We can adjust that all the way down to zero.

That allows us to fine-tune our trailer breaks to match our vehicle. If we have a heavier load, we can up it. A lighter load, we can lower it.Manual override, which is this button here, this allows us to apply the breaks on the trailer in case of an emergency situation without having to apply the brakes in the van, or in the vehicle.This button here, this is our boost button. So, let's say we have it set at 5.5, our trailer breaks. When we apply the breaks in our vehicle, it's going to go from zero to 5.5 to apply the breaks on the trailer.

We set our boost, B1, B2, or B3, that's going to change how quickly that gets to that 5.5. So, if we have it at B3, and this is going to be for heavier loads, it's going to start, instead of starting at zero, it's going to start at 28% of pressure and go up to that 5.5 much quicker.A couple of other things that I really like about the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller is one, it's going to be proportional, which means when you apply the brakes in your van, it's going to apply the brakes on the trailer which is going to be better than some of your time delayed. It's going to have an LED screen, it's going to work with from one to four axles, and it also will work with electric over hydraulic brakes.Now that we've gone over the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, and the ETBC7, let me show you how I installed it.To start our installation on our ETBC7, we need to mount our 7- and 4-pole plugs to the bracket that comes in the kit. It's going to come with four screws, very simple, and then four nuts to go on the backside. Now, in order to get this to set far enough away from our hitch, we also had to add a long bracket.

This is a no-drill long bracket. You can find it here at Etrailer.com using part number 57202.Now, what I did with my wiring coming off the back of my plug, instead of running underneath my hitch, troy mounted my bracket, this bracket here, on to my hitch inaudible 00:02:38 on to my bracket that comes in my kit for my 7- and 4-pole. And I ran my wires through the hole in the top. I went ahead and put some electrical tape around, just to help clean up the install a little bit, and then I mounted everything right to my hitch.On the back, coming out of your 7-pole plug, you're going to have a purple wire, white wire, blue wire, and a black wire, along with a 4-pole plug. Purple wire, we're not going to be using, so we're going to be cutting that down.

This is for reverse lights. White wire is going to come with a ring terminal on it. So, we're going to ground that right to the chassis of the vehicle. Blue and white wire, or blue and black wire, I'm sorry. Black wire's going to be our power wire, it's going to run up to the front of the vehicle along with our blue wire. Blue wire's going to be running inside the vehicle, going to our brake controller. As far as our 4-pole plug, we're actually going to take this, and it's going to connect to our 4-pole plug that's on the vehicle, or our 4-pole wiring. Now, if you don't have that, you're going to want to add that on when installing both of these items.I'm going to take a little bit of a dielectric grease, you can find this here at Etrailer.com, when I put it on my connections here, it's going to help keep any moisture, dirt, and debris off of them. inaudible 00:03:55 like that. Then we're going to take my two plugs and put them together. Take a zip tie to help us hold it together. Go through one. Now, if you don't want to do it this way, you can always cut these wires on both sides and splice them together. I've done it both ways. And we can cut off like this, and we're going to go ahead and cut off this guy right here, just like that.We're also going to get a bundleinaudible 00:04:27 wire in your kit, it's going to have some sheathing on it. Go ahead and pull back some of that sheathing. It's going to have a black and white wire in it. And then you're going to strip the two ends. The black wire is going to go to the black wire coming off the back of the plug, white wire's going to go to the blue. Go ahead and put it in your already installed butt connectors.You can see what I've done with my purple and white wire. I just ran it right up next to my 4-pole wiring towards my frame, put a zip tie on it to hold it in place. Now we're going to go ahead and ground our white wire that's on the back of our plug to the factory chassis here, or factory frame rail with the self-tightening screw that comes in the kit. Just like that.Now, we need to get the rest of this run up to the front engine compartment. I'm going to try to go through the frame rail because there're several holes along the outside of the frame rail here, so I can pass it through. Let me get it done real quick and I'll show you how I did it.Now, an easy way to get this through your frame rail is airline tube. If you don't have airline tube, try to find something a little bit stiff. This wire is pretty stiff, there may be a few hangups when you get up a little bit farther if your trying to go pretty far with it. Anyway, run it through the back here, went overtop, followed my frame rail all the way up to right in front of my fuel tank. I had a problem going through the frame rail right here where this cross member is. It's bolted all the way through. So what I did was I came out of this hole, went over the top of this cross member, went back in the frame here, and then just followed it all the way up to this very front hole. Came out and went right up the backside of the firewall.Now, if you didn't want to go inside the frame rail, there is wiring and hard liners that run along the top of the frame rail from front to back. You can do that if you want. I like to try to protect my wire as much as possible and this is the straightest route. Doing the wire on top, you might have to go around a few things. You lose a little bit of length in wire that we're going to need later on. So, personal preference. Then you can see where my wire's moving down there, I just ran it up behind this factory wiring to keep it up nice and tight to right up here.The next thing we need to do is we need to cut the sheathing all the way back, almost to our firewall. Our white wire inside here is going to go inside the vehicle, our black wire is going to go over to our passenger side and connect to our battery. Take a utility knife and, very carefully, we're going to go right down the center of the sheathing.We just ran our black wire across to our passenger side, following this factory wire loom. Then, we mounted our two circuit breakers. You're going to have three of them that come in your kit. We're going to be using two of them, the forty-amp and the thirty-amp. You can see where I mounted them here. Take my black wire, I'm going to cut it to size, mount it on my forty-amp sugar breaker. That's going to be what is going to be powering my plug, my 7- and 4-pole plug in the back of the vehicle. Then I'll take it right off of that, straight down to the positive side of the battery. I'll take another one, come from here, up through my thirty-amp, and this one is actually going to power my brake controller, which I'll run a black wire back across, following the same factory wiring and go inside the vehicle.Next, we need to get through the firewall into the driver's side of the vehicle. There's two grommets here, the factory one, which is the larger one here on the left, and then there's one right over here on the right side. You just want to make sure, before you go through either one of the grommets, check on the inside to make sure you're not going to be hitting any other wiring or anything like that. I'm going to use the one on the right side because there's nothing on the other side. It's pretty wide open in there. I'm going to have to drill it from out here, though, it's a little bit hard to get in inside with this drill. I'm just going to put, it doesn't have to be a real big drill bit, just one you can get your wires, it's going to make you a hole big enough to get your wires through there.We're going to take our white wire and then our black wire that we ran over from our battery side. Go ahead and feed them through. Before we do anything else, we need to figure out where we're going to put our brake controller. Typically, we'll put it right here. However, on the van, this seat's not going to go back any farther. And, if you get any closer, it's pretty close to hitting your shin on it. So, what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to put it right here.There's two different ways you can do it, you can use this piece and there's a metal bracket. If you use a metal bracket, it's going to be hard to put here because you can't get the screw into the side of the brake controller. With this, you can mount this first and your brake controller just sits down inside. You can actually pop your brake controller out, unplug it, and put it in your glove box if you're not wanting to use it.So, if I put it here, it's out of the way, you're not going to have to worry about hitting your legs or your shins or anything else on it. The reason we want to do this is we're going to have a plug that looks like this that's going to come up through the back of it. Now, these wires are pretty long. Rather than cutting these three wires, now we get this in place first, we'll be able to zip tie this over underneath our dash. We can cut our wires short because we're going to have a couple more wires we need to run back outside of the vehicle. We can utilize the extra white wire that we need to run outside the vehicle.So, let's get this mounted real quick. They're just Phillips head screws that come in your kit. Go ahead and pass your plug up through the bracket. I'm going to go ahead and do that. Get that put in there just so I can see how much length I'm going to need. On the bracket that's holding our emergency brake handle on, there's a small hole. So, what I can do is I can actually get these to where I can run a zip tie through that hole. So, I'm going to measure these about to there and go ahead and cut these. I'm going to go ahead and strip back white wire and black wire. Keep in mind, these two wires are coming from the ETBC7 wiring. This is nothing we've added on.If you remember, the white wire is coming from the blue wire back on the 7-pole plug and our black wire is coming from the battery. So, now we're just going to connect them to the blue and the black wire coming off the back of our brake controller. Our blue's going to go to white, which goes to our blue wire in the back. And, our black's going to go to black, which is going to be our power. Our extra white wire that we cut off, we're going to connect to the white wire here, which we're going to run back through the grommet to a factory ground.You can run this to the battery, but this wire's not going to be long enough. If you wanted to do that, you'd have to get some extra wire. It's going to be just as good if you run it to a factory ground. There's one right outside the firewall here on the driver's side, so it works out pretty good. I'm going to strip this white wire back just a little bit more. We're going to end up doubling it over. Okay, send this back through.Now, as far as my red wire, we can't tap into these brake light wires on the cold side of the brake light switch on the pedal. So, what we're going to do is we're going to take it outside and hook it to a fuse, which is here on the driver's side, but it's in the engine compartment. So, I just took an extra piece of wire that I had laying around, I happened to find a red one to match, and we're going to splice them together here with a butt connector and then we'll go outside and connect the two with our fuse.Our fuse panel's located right here on our driver's side, on the top side of our wheel well. The fuse that we're going to be tapping into is actually going to be this fifteen-amp fuse right here, third one in. This is our auxiliary stop lamp fuse. In order for this to work, we're going to need a fuse tap. You can find this here on our website using part number F2526. We'll just take some needle nose pliers, go ahead and remove that fuse. We're going to be installing this in our fuse tap. Then we'll take our fuse that comes with it and add it into the fuse tap. We'll take our red wire, we're going to measure it out, and then we'll cut it to size. Now we'll strip back our red wire and add on our fuse tap. Then, we can insert our fuse tap into the spot where we removed our fuse.Our white wire, which is a ground coming from our brake controller, there's a body ground right here that I'm going to use. So, I'll go ahead and cut this down to size, or to length. And, my large ring terminal. Ten millimeter socket will loosen this bolt here. And our ring terminal with our white wire and we'll reinstall the bolt.We'll take a ten millimeter socket. We're going to remove our positive post here. One thing to keep in mind with batteries like this, it's easy very easy to strip this out. So, we want to make sure we're careful. Pulling it out, it'd be alright. It's the putting it back in. So, we're going to be adding an extended terminal. We'll take some channel locks here and we'll push out the old and we'll add in our new one. And reinsert this onto the battery, and we're going to be, again, you want to be easy when doing this because we want to make sure that we don't mess up the threads on the battery. We'll tighten that down with the fifteen millimeter socket once we have it hand-threaded in. Then, we'll add our two ring terminals onto the positive side of our battery post and then reinstall the nut.Now, we can plug in our brake controller and I'm going to make sure everything's working correctly. And, let's see, we have signal on our brake controller. It says, "NC" for no trailer or no connection. So, we know we're working. I'm going to hook up a box to simulate hooking up to a trailer to go through all the functions to make sure everything is working correctly there.Now that I've made the connection, you can see the "C." It shows that we're connected to our trailer. Now, we'll show you, with a tester, to show you that we're getting brake pressure back to our 7-pole plug as if we would have our trailer hooked up.That'll do it for a look at and installation on Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller and ETBC7 on our 2017 Chevrolet Express Van.


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