View Cart

Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2012 Chevrolet Express Van

content loading



Customers compare 90885 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video




How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2012 Chevrolet Express Van


Today on our 2012 Chevy Express Van we'll be installing the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller, part number 90885, in conjunction with Etrailer's ETBC7 brake controller install kit. We'll also be using an extra 10 feet of the gray duplex wire, part number ETBCXW; a Firestone fuse circuit tap kit, part number F2526; the no-drill mounting bracket from Tow Ready, part number 18136; and the Deka battery side bolt extender, part number DW05416. To begin our install we'll start with our new 7-pole connector and mounting bracket. We'll take the mounting bracket and secure it to the 7-pole connector with the hardware provided. Now with that done we'll go ahead and wrap up a portion of our wire with some black electrical tape. This will help clean up our install look and help hold our wires together. Next we'll go ahead and take the 7-pole bracket and secure it to our no-drill mounting bracket with the hardware provided. Now we can go ahead and mount the no-drill mounting bracket directly to our hitch using the worm clamp provided.

Next we'll need to take the 4-pole connector that's already mounted on the vehicle, and the 4-pole connector out of the back of the 7-pole connector, and connect the two together. Note, I recommend you use some Edelman dielectric grease, part number 11755, in between these two connection points. Then anything left that squeezes out we'll go ahead and put into the end of the butt connectors for our black and blue wires. By using the dielectric grease it will help keep out the dirt, dust, debris, and especially moisture, to prevent corrosion. Next we'll go ahead and cut the purple wire short as it will not be used in this application. It is typically designed for reverse lights for the trailer.

Another thing we can do to assist these two connectors to keeping a nice tight seal is taking a zip tie and wrapping around the two connectors to secure them together. Then we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip tie. Now we'll go ahead and take the gray duplex cable provided with our brake controller install kit and cut back several inches of the gray sheathing. Then we'll go ahead and strip back the black and white wires underneath. The black and white wire will connect black to black coming out of the back of the 7-pole connector, and white to blue.

This blue wire will be the power going to our trailer braking. Now with this connection made we can go ahead and finish wrapping up our wires with some black electrical tape. Next we'll go ahead and take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and the self-tapping screw provided with our install kit and secure it directly to the frame, grounding our new 7 and 4-pole connector. Now with that done, we're ready to go ahead and start routing the gray duplex cable. For this application we'll also be using a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire, or in this case, a piece of air tubing. With an open channel we'll be able to route our wire inside the channel.

Keep in mind, when routing your wire stay away from any moving components such as steering or suspension, or excessive heat such as exhaust. As we run our pull wire we'll then go ahead and attach it to the gray duplex cable with some electrical tape, and pull the gray duplex cable into position. Once we get it up to the front of the vehicle near the engine, we'll go ahead and route it through the top of the engine bay. Now we'll go back to the hitch and secure the wiring as necessary with the zip ties provided with our install kit. We'll cut off the excess from the zip tie and move to the top of the engine. After we make a mark in our gray duplex cable I'll then take my utility knife and strip back the gray sheathing to the end of the gray cable. Then we'll go ahead and cut off the sheathing and the white wire will get routed into the cabin of the vehicle, and the black wire will get routed on towards the battery. To route the white wire into the cabin of the vehicle we're going to go through the manufacturer's grommet here at the main wiring harness. To get inside we'll use our utility knife to cut a small hole into the boot of the harness. Then we can take our pull wire, push it from inside the vehicle out to the engine compartment. Then we'll go ahead and secure it to our pull wire and pull it back into the cabin. Now with the white wire running inside we'll take the extra ten feet of gray duplex cable, part number ETBCXW, and push it from inside the cabin to the engine component, pulling the extra out into the engine bay. We'll leave just enough that we'll be able to attach it to our brake controller. Now for this application we're unable to pick up a signal from the brake switch so we'll need to go to a fuse in the engine bay. We'll need to add some extra wire to the red indicator wire coming from the brake controller pig tail. Once again, we'll use our pull wire to assist by pushing it through the grommet and then feeding the red wire into the pull wire and pulling it into the engine bay. Now with all our wires run we'll move back to the cabin of the vehicle. Our next step is to mount the brake controller pocket. We'll mount the pocket with the hardware provided with our install kit. Now we'll take the brake controller pig tail and start making our connections. We'll start with the red wire coming from the brake controller pig tail and connect it with the red wire that we just ran into the engine compartment. We'll strip back both ends and use the butt connector provided with our brake controller. Next we'll take the gray duplex cable that we ran into the cabin, strip back several inches of the gray sheathing, and then strip back the wires. We'll connect white to white and black to black of our brake controller pig tail using the butt connectors provided with our install kit. Next we'll take the white wire that we originally ran from the gray duplex cable all the way back from the 7-pole and connect it to the blue wire on our brake controller pig tail. Note, you'll want to cut off any access from this wire. Then we'll use the butt connectors provided with our install kit. We'll strip back both ends, crimp them, and secure them. Now with all our wires secured I'm going to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up our wires to help hold them together and clean up our install look. This will also assist in keeping any dust, dirt, debris, from our connection points. Now with that done we'll go ahead and take the brake controller pig tail, feed it through the pocket, and connect it to the brake controller. We can then drop our brake controller into the pocket and lock it into position. Now using the zip ties with our brake controller install kit we'll secure the wiring up underneath the dash. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the wiring and then move back to the engine bay. We'll now take the red wire that we ran for our brake controller pig tail and run it over to the fuse box. We'll go ahead and remove the fuse box cover so we can route the wire into it. We'll need to remove the third pin on the bottom row from the left hand side. This fuse is only hot when the brake pedal is depressed, so it will trigger our trailer brake controller. We'll go ahead and take the Firestone fuse tap, part number F2526, and secure it to the red wire. Then we'll go ahead and remove the fuse from the fuse port and install it back into the fuse tap into the first position. In the second position we'll install the 10-amp fuse provided with the fuse tap. We'll then go ahead and take the fuse tap and put it back in the place of the fuse we removed. Now with the fuse tap installed we'll go ahead and reinstall the fuse box cover. Next we'll take the black power wire that we originally ran from our 7-pole connector, and the gray duplex cable that we ran to the brake controller, and follow the manufacturer's wiring across the top of the engine bay, securing it with the black zip ties. We'll go all the way over to the passenger side inner fender well. Here we'll need to mount two breakers. The first breaker we'll mount will be a 40-amp breaker that will secure the black wire we ran from the 7-pole connector. The second breaker we'll mount will be the 30-amp breaker provided with our install kit, and this will go to the brake controller power that is still inside the gray duplex cable. Now with our breakers mounted let's go ahead and start making our connections. We'll cut our 7-pole power wire to length, strip it back, and add a small ring terminal. We'll then take the ring terminal, fit it over the silver side of the breaker, and then install the serrated washer and nut to secure it. Next we'll go ahead and cut our gray duplex cable to length as needed to run the black wire to the breaker and the white wire to the manufacturer's ground here on the inner fender well. Once we cut it to length we'll go ahead and strip it back and then strip back both wires, adding a small ring terminal to our power wire and a large ring terminal to the ground wire. Then we'll go ahead and remove the manufacturer's ground stud, install the ring terminal, and resecure the stud. Then we'll go ahead and take our power wire and secure it to the silver side of our 30-amp breaker. Once we have these installed and tightened down, we can remove the red power wire from the battery. Then using a pair of pliers we can push the old battery post out and install the Deka battery side bolt extender, part number DW05416, so that add the ring terminals to the battery terminal. Then we'll go ahead and resecure it to the battery. We'll remove the nut and now we're ready to go ahead and make up our leads. Using the black wire left over from my gray duplex cable we'll go ahead and strip back two ends and add two small ring terminals. We'll then install the ring terminals on the copper sides of our breakers and secure them. We'll route that over to the positive battery terminal, cut to length, and install two large ring terminals. Once we install the ring terminals and secure them we'll go ahead and slide them over the positive battery post extender and secure it with the nut provided. Next we'll go ahead and take a couple black zip ties to finish securing our wiring here underneath the dash. Then we'll cut off the excess from all of our zip ties to clean up our install look. Now with all our wires routed and secured, this will complete the install of our Tekonsha Prodigy P2 brake controller, in conjunction with our ETBC7 brake controller install kit, for our 2012 Chevy Express Van. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for these parts were:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Test Fit:
Patrick B
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Rick A
Video Edited:
Patrick B
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Joe B
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
David F
Video by:
Michael B
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chad S

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.