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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2007 Dodge Durango

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2007 Dodge Durango

Today on our 2007 Dodge Durango, we'll be installing the Tekonsh Prodigy P2 brake controller, part number 90885. In order to install this brake controller on this vehicle, we'll also need to use the e-trailer universal install kit, part number ETBC7. To start, we'll first food ahead and assemble the 7 pull adapter bracket. With hardware provided, we'll use it to attach the bracket to the 7 pull adapter. We'll go ahead and take the bracket, feed it over the wires and up to the back of the mounting surface for the 7 pull adapter. Then, we'll take the screws, feed them through the front side of the 7 pull and secure it with the nuts in the back side. Once we have all 4 in place, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. I'm going to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up 8 to 10 inches of our wire.

This will assist in bundling our wires together and help protect it from the elements. Note; we've cut short the purple wire for the reverse light for trailer as it will not be necessary for this application. Next, we'll go ahead and attach the drop tight, no drill mounting bracket, part number 18136. Using the fasteners provided with the bracket, we can secure it to the 7 pull bracket. The vehicle is already equipped with a 4 pull flat connector. The connector is a bit corroded and has excess wire, so we're going to go ahead and cut off the excess wire on the vehicle side and the 4 flat connector on the back of our 7 pull. Now, we're ready to install our 7 pull connector on to the vehicle.

We'll use the worm gear clamp provided to secure it directly to the hitch tube. We'll strip back both sides of the wire, using the Deka heat shrink butt connectors and connect color for color, brown to brown, yellow to yellow and green to green. Using our Deka heat shrink butt connectors, part number Dw05744. Once we crimp the connection points, we'll then use the heat gun to heat up the shrinkable tubing on the outside of the butt connector to seal it up. Next we'll go ahead and prepare our grey duplex cable to connect it to the 7 pull wiring. To do this, we'll need to strip back some of the gray sheathing.

We'll use our utility knife to slice the sheathing and then cut it off. We'll strip back both the white and black wires. Now, we can take the white wire, connect it with the blue wire, coming out of the back of the 7 pull connector. There's already a butt connector on the blue side, so we'll just simply connect it and crimp it down. On a normal or standard install, the black power wire coming from the converter box for the 4 pull wiring harness install, would have a additional black wire that would lead up to the front of the vehicle and ultimately to the battery, but because we're installing our ETBC7 brake controller install kit, and the black power wire that'll be run to power the inaudible 00:04:17 constant supply for our 7 pull connector, here at the back of the vehicle, it's thick enough to carry the load for both harnesses. We'll go ahead and connect the harnesses together and run 1 power wire to the front of the vehicle. Twist the wires together.

Once we've got them firmly twisted together, we use a weather-proof wire nut. This can be purchased from your local hardware or auto parts stores. Now, with our power wires secured, to help keep them together, we're going to go ahead and secure them with a small zip tie. Next, we'll take our white wire which is our ground wire for our module box and attach it to the body of the vehicle using a self-tapping screw, provided with our install kit. Now, we're ready to tape up all of our connection points to help bundle them together, keep them free from dirt, dust, debris, moisture and clean up our install look. Once we have the wires taped up, we'll go ahead and secure them with some black zip ties. Now, we're ready to start running our grey duplex cable. As we route our wiring, we'll be careful to stay away from any moving components, such as steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. As we go along, we'll also secure the wiring with the black zip ties. Now, we've got the grey duplex cable run in to the engine compartment, we'll need to locate the grommet in the firewall to run our wiring through. We'll need to mark the grey duplex cable as it comes up the firewall. Using our paint marker, we'll go ahead and do that now. To the left of the brake pedal is a grommet that we can use. We'll go ahead and pull the grommet out and use our side cutters to cut a hole in the grommet. Then, we'll take our pull wire and push it through the hole in the grommet and re-install the grommet. Now, with our mark at the firewall, we'll move to the other end of our grey duplex cable as we loosely route it over top of the engine compartment and ultimately the battery. Here we can go ahead and cut off the excess of the grey duplex cable. We'll move back underneath the vehicle and pull our grey duplex wire down to where we can gain access to the mark that we made near the firewall. From that mark to the end, we're going to go ahead and remove the grey sheathing from our duplex cable. This will allow the black wire to run over towards the battery and the white wire to run inside. Using a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire, or in this case, we're using a piece of air tubing, we'll go ahead and take the white wire and some black electrical tape and secure it to our pull wire. We'll repeat the same process with our black wire. Then, we'll go ahead and pull the white wire into the cabin of the vehicle, using our pull wire. Next, we'll repeat the same process, pulling the pull wire to the top of the engine compartment along with the black wire, that'll ultimately be the power wire for our converter box and 7 pull connector. Next, we'll need to run a power and ground wire for our brake controller. Because of the length and routing of this vehicle, we'll need to add some additional wire. Using the e-trailer extra length wire, part number ETBCXW, we'll provide additional 10 feet of grey duplex cable. Using our pull wire, we'll route it through our grommet and out into the engine compartment. We'll secure the extra length of grey duplex cable to the pull wire and then pull it into the cabin of the vehicle. Now, with all our wires routed into the cabin of the vehicle, we're ready to start installing our brake controller. First, we'll install the brake controller pocket or bracket, using the hardware provided with the brake controller, we can secure it directly to the knee bolster, here on the driver's side. Then, we'll take the pigtail provided with the brake controller and start securing the wiring. The red wire on the pigtail will go directly to the brake switch wire that is hot, only when the brake pedal is depressed. We'll go ahead and first remove the black electrical tape. To locate this wire, we'll use our test light and a piece of wire. We'll take the wire and back probe the brake switch here. Then, with our test light grounded, we'll connect the test light to our wire and press on the brake pedal. For this application, it'll be a white wire with a brown tracer. This will be the wire that's hot only when the brake pedal is depressed. Now, to connect our red wire to the white wire with a brown tracer, take the quick spliced connector provided with our install kit and slide it over the manufacturer's wire. Then, slide the red wire in behind it. Then, we'll crimp it down and close the clasp. We'll take the blue wire from the brake controller pig tail and connect it to the single white wire we ran inside the cabin of the vehicle first. We'll cut off any excess and strip it back. Then, we'll use the yellow butt connectors, provided with our install kit, to secure it to the white wire from the grey duplex cable and the blue wire from our brake controller pigtail. Now, we'll take the extra length of grey duplex cable that we ran into the cabin of the vehicle, and remove several inches of the sheathing. We'll strip back the wires and add butt connectors. For these 2 wires, we can connect color for color, for the black and white wire coming from our brake controller pigtail. Now, with all our wires connected, we'll go ahead and wrap them up with some black electric tape to help keep them free from dirt, dust, debris or moisture. I'll also tape up the end of my pigtail to bundle up the wires and clean up our install look. With that done, we're now ready to route it over to our brake controller pocket, run it through the pocket and connect it with the brake controller. We'll install the brake controller into the pocket and secure our wiring underneath the dash. We're now ready to move back underneath the hood. The battery for this vehicle is located on the passenger side, so we'll need to route our wiring across the top of the engine compartment. To assist in doing this, we're going to go ahead and drill some hole here in the plastic that runs across the top of the engine compartment. Once we drill the holes out, we can then install zip ties into the holes to secure our wiring, as we route across the top of the engine bank. Once we've gotten it over near the battery, we'll go ahead and set it aside. We're now ready to install the breakers for our brake controller and 7 pull connector. Our 40 amp breaker will go here and we'll install it first. Using the self-tapping screws provided with our install kit, we'll go ahead and secure it now. Then, we'll install our second breaker for the brake controller. Now, with our breakers installed, we'll take the single black wire, that we ran from the 7 pull connector. We'll cut it to length, strip it back. We'll use the small ring terminal provided with our install kit. Then, we'll take the ring terminal, install it to the silver side of the breaker and secure it with the star washer and nut provided with the install kit. Next, we'll take the grey duplex cable that we ran from the brake controller. Let's go ahead and remove the sheathing first and then route our white wire to the negative battery terminal, cut off any excess length and then strip back the wire and add a large ring terminal. We'll remove the nut from the negative battery terminal post, install our ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. We'll take our black power wire and run it over to the silver side of the second breaker, cut off any excess length, strip it back and add a small ring terminal, securing it with a star washer and nut. Now, we're ready to make our battery leads. The leads will come from the copper side of the breakers, ultimately to the positive battery posts. We'll use our leftover black wire from the grey duplex cable. We'll take the cable, strip back both ends and add small ring terminals. Starting with our 40 amp breaker, I'll go ahead and install the ring terminal on to the copper side and secure it. Then, we'll route it over to the positive battery posts and cut it to length. We'll take the second wire, repeat the same process with our second breaker. Now, we can take our wires, route them through the red casing that goes around the positive battery post, cable and cap. We'll go ahead and cut the length and strip them back. Now we can add the large ring terminals, so that we can remove the nut from the positive battery terminal, install both ring terminals and re-secure the nut, positive battery, post cap back on. Then, cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install look. Now, with that, our install is complete and we can go ahead and check our brake controller. With the brake controller hot, you can see that the brake controller lights light up. Then, when we connect our trailer to our brake controller, we'll get a C for connection. If we remove our trailer wiring from the 7 pull connector, we'll get an NC for no connection. Now that we know our wiring works, we're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install of our Tekonsh Prodigy P2 brake controller, part number 90885 in conjunction with the universal install kit, part number ETBC7, for your 2007 Dodge Durango. .

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