Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2005 Toyota Sienna

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2005 Toyota Sienna


Today on our 2005 Toyota Sienna, we'll be installing the etrailer ETBC7 brake controller install kit part number ETBC7. Along with the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller and it's part number 90885. We'll be adding this to a vehicle that's already equipped with a hitch and 4-Pole flat wiring harness. To start, we'll first go ahead and assemble the 7-Pole adapter bracket. With the hardware provided, we'll use it to attach the bracket to the 7-Pole adapter. We'll go ahead and take the bracket and feed it over the wires and up to the back of the mounting surface for the 7-Pole adapter. Then we'll take the screws, feed them through the front side of the 7-Pole and secure it with the nuts on the backside.

Once we have all four in place, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. I'm going to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up 8-10 inches or our wire. This will assist in bundling our wires together and help protect them from the elements. Next, we'll go ahead and attach the draw-tight, no-drill mounting bracket part number 18136. Using the fasteners provided with the bracket, we can secure it to the 7-Pole bracket. Now, once we have our 7-Pole bracket mounted to the no-drill mounting bracket we'll go ahead and attach it to the hitch. Take our wiring, feed up over the hitch, feed our bracket into place, and then use the worm gear clamp provided to secure the no-drill mounting bracket directly to the hitch.

Now once we have it secured, we have two options for trimming off the excess. You can use a pair of tin snips or a rotary cut-off wheel. We're just going to go ahead and use the tin snips to trim it off. Note: After you trim it, there can be sharp edges so you want to be careful around the clamp once it's been trimmed. Next, we'll take the 4-Pole harness here in the back of our new 7-Pole connector and plug it in directly to the 4-Pole harness on the vehicle. Before we connect the two together, we're going to install some dielectric grease on the connector to help prevent corrosion that can build up over time.

We're going to be using the Edelman Dialectric Grease, part number 11755. Note: We'll go ahead and cut the cap off the 4-Pole flap that's on the vehicle as it will no longer be necessary. Next, we'll need to hook up the black and blue wires coming from our 7-Pole connector. We'll be connect these to the gray duplex cable provided with the install kit. Now, to connect the two, we'll need to expose the wires inside the sheath, so we'll go ahead and cut the sheath back. I'll just cut that off and out of the way.

Then we'll strip back the wires. With the butt connectors already attached on our seven blade harness side, we'll match it up black-to-black and secure it with a butt connector. Then we'll take the blue and put it on the white side. Now with our connections made, we're going to want to wrap them up with some black electrical tape to help them free from dirt, dust, debris, and moisture. Next, we'll go ahead and take our harness and run it over towards the drivers side along the hitch securing it with z-ties as necessary. Now the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal is going to be the new ground for a 7-Pole connector. We're going to run it up over the hitch and ultimately to the vehicle frame. Now with out ground secured, we're ready to take the gray duplex cable and ultimately run up underneath the vehicle to the bottom engine compartment. We'll route it through the engine compartment until we gain access to it at the top of the engine bay. To assist in routing our wire, we're going to use the Redline metal loom clamp, part number A0500. The clamp will go around the wire and then we'll use a self-tapping screw to secure it to the bottom of the frame. Now as we route our wire, we'll use the zip ties provided with out install kit to secure it. But note, when you're routing your wires stay away from any moving components, steering and suspension, or excess heat such as the exhaust. Now with our wire routed to the top of the engine compartment, we'll need to locate an area that we can route through the firewall. For this application, we're going to utilize the manufacturer's grommet here on the drivers side behind the dashboard. Using a utility knife, we'll cut a small hole in the grommet and then use a fish wire, which can be a stiff piece of metal or in this case a piece of air tubing to route through the firewall in to the engine compartment. We'll utilize the same grommet for running our brake hot-lead from the 7-Pole; from the brake controller to the 7-Pole. And also, a power and ground for the brake controller. Here we have our gray duplex cable that we ran up in to the engine compartment from the 7-Pole connector. The black wire is going to get routed over to the fender well where a mounted breaker can ultimately run a hot-lead to the battery. The white wire needs to be a continuous run going all the way in to the cabin of the vehicle. However, we have plenty of leftover length, so we're going to go ahead and cut off some excess length, we'll hang on to the cut off piece as we'll use it a little bit later. We have one lead that will stay in the engine compartment and the other one gets routed in to the cabin of the vehicle, we'll need to remove the gray duplex cable. So I'll go ahead and use my utility knife to cut the sheathing back. We'll go ahead and split it and remove our wires from it. As we're working here, we can also see our pull wire that we routed into the engine compartment. To utilize our pull wire, we'll go ahead and grab it and pull it out here where we can get access to it. Take the white wire that's going to get routed into the cabin of the vehicle using some electrical tape, we can simply tape the white wire to the pull wire. While we have access to our pull wire, we can also take the leftover piece of our gray duplex cable that we just trimmed off and tape it to the pull wire and put it into the cabin of the vehicle at the same time as the white wire. We'll go ahead and tape it to the pull wire also. You'll notice I'm staggering it so they don't all get pulled in at the same time as we're trying to work our way through the grommet. Now we've got our wires routed to the inside, we'll go ahead and remove our electrical tape and pull wire. Now that we've got our wires routed inside, we'll go ahead and start mounting the brake controller. For this application, I'm going to use the brake controller pocket that we can mount directly here to the dashboard. To mount it we'll use the screws provided with the install kit. We'll need to start wiring the brake controller pig-tail. We're going to start with the red wire from the pig-tail, it's going to route to the vehicle brake switch and connect with the lead that's hot only when the brake pedal is depressed. First, we'll locate the brake switch, which for this application, is right here next to the brake pedal. Then, we can pull back on the cover around the wires for the brake switch and use our test light to determine which lead is hot when the brake pedal is depressed. So the white wire, as you can see, is hot at all times, but we're looking for the wire that is only hot when the brake pedal is depressed. Here we have it, we located a green wire with a white stripe. To connect the two, we'll use the quick splice connector provided with our install kit. We'll take the quick splice connector, slide it over the manufacturer's wire in to position. Then, we'll take the red wire and slide it into the quick splice connector and crimp it down. Then we'll close the clasp on the quick splice connector. Note: I recommend to wrap it up with a little electrical tape just to help keep the connection point clean. Now with the brake switch connection point made, we'll take the blue wire from our brake controller pig-tail and attach it to the white wire that we ran from the back of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the white wire first, strip it back. Take the blue wire from our pig-tail and use the yellow butt connector provided with the brake control install kit. Then we'll take the other end of the butt connector and attach it to our white wire. Next, we'll take the gray duplex cable and we'll strip back a couple of inches to gain access to our wires; cut off that gray sheathing and strip back our wires. Now our black and white wire from the gray duplex cable will match up color-for-color for the black and white wire from the brake controller. Again, we're just going to match these color-for-color. Now that all of our connections are made, we're going to use some black electrical tape to wrap up our pig-tail and connection points. Next, we'll take our pig-tail and start routing it in to position. Once we've routed it in to place, we can then go ahead and plug it in to our brake controller. Then put our brake controller into the pocket. Then, I'm going to secure my wiring as necessary with the zip ties under the dash. Now we're going to move back to the engine compartment. Here we're going to route our wires over to the drivers side inner fender well. Here at the fender well is where we're going to attach our breakers. For this application, we'll use a 40-Amp breaker for the low-volt, hot supply to our 7-Pole connector, and a 20-Amp breaker for the power to the brake controller. Using the self-tapping screws provided with our brake controller install kit, we'll go ahead and secure our breakers now. Now with our breakers attached we'll go ahead and start routing our wires. The black wire here is what's remaining from the gray duplex cable we routed from the back of the vehicle, it's going to go to the 40-Amp breaker. Go ahead and route it, mark it, and cut off the excess. We can trim it back and add a small ring firm that is only supplied with our install kit. Then once we secure our ring terminal, we'll slide it on to the sliver side or our breaker. As the copper side is reserved for the hot lead that goes directly to the battery. To secure our ring terminal, we install a serrated washer and nut, we'll just go finger tight at this time. Next, we'll take our gray duplex cable we routed into the cabin of the vehicle. Mark it where it's going to need to be striped back so we can run the back wire to our breaker and the white wire will, ultimately, get routed to the negative battery post. Here we can go ahead and cut off the excess wire and then begin striping back the gray sheathing. Now I'll go ahead and cut off the black wire, strip it back, and add a small ring terminal. Slide it over the 20-Amp breaker and it will be the hot lead going through the brake controller. We'll secure it with the same star washer and nut. Now once we've taken the black wire out of the remaining duplex cable, we'll go ahead and strip back two ends. Both of these in, we'll get small ring terminals to attach to the breakers. We'll go ahead and attach them to the breakers now. Once we have all the serrated washers and nuts on to the breakers, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Now with our hot leads routed over towards the positive battery cable, we'll take the white wire we'll be using for our ground, route it, trim off any excess, strip it back, and add your large ring terminal. Now that we've got our ground wire set-up, we'll go ahead and leave it sit there as we'll be attaching it to the negative battery post. Let's go ahead and prep our power wires. I'm going to remove the cap from the positive battery post, mark the length of my wires, cut them, strip them back, and add ring terminals to each. Go ahead and route them through the positive battery cap hold-down and then install the ring terminals. Next, we'll remove the nut on the positive battery post terminal, install the ring terminal, and then re-secure the nut. Then we can go ahead and re-install our positive battery terminal cap. Now, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process at the negative battery terminal. Now with our connections made, secure our wiring as necessary. Cut off any of the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install look. With all our connections made, we're now going to go ahead and go over operation of the new brake controller. With this application, we have two blue lights that will show we have power to our brake controller. Then when we connect our trailer, we'll get a "C", which will stand for trailer connection detected. Then, once we're finished using our trailer, we'll simply unplug it and our brake controller will indicate that the wires have been unplugged and we'll get an "NC" for No Connection. Now, with that, this will complete the install of the etrailer Brake Controller Install Kit; part number ETBC7. Along with the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, and it's part number 90885 on our 2005 Toyota Sienna. .


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