Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2010 Chevrolet Traverse

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2010 Chevrolet Traverse


Today, on our 2010 Chevy Traverse, we'll be installing the Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller for 1 to 3 axles, part number TK90160. The additional items we'll be using to complete the brake package hookup will ring terminals, part number 44-5356A. We'll also be using a total of approximately 35 feet of the jacketed 2 wire, in 12 gauge. It's part number 12-2-1. We'll also be using 2 breakers on the installation. We'll be using 1 inline 20 amp breaker, which is part number 9506P, and one 40 amp inline circuit breaker, which is part number 9510. Now, because this vehicle has already had an ETBC7 started on it, we're just going to need to do a little bit of clean up work. The purple wire will not be used, and we will just take that up out of the way, and we will take part of our duplex wire, which is a white and a black wire, and we will connect the black wire to the black wire here, using a butt connector. We will also go ahead and connect the white wire to the blue wire. Again, we'll go ahead and use a butt connector to make this connection. Now, once we have this connection made, we're going to go ahead and clean up the wiring back here by using some zip ties, and electrical tape. Now, we're going to need to go ahead and route the gray duplex wire to the front of the vehicle. You want to make sure you stay away from any moving parts, areas that are sharp, or may become hot. We're going to need to find a grommet or something to poke into the cab of the vehicle. Now, this grommet, when you go from the inside of the vehicle, is actually to the right side of the gas pedal. Now, when you push the white wire in through the grommet, we'll go ahead then and push the additional white and black wire, but we're going to leave it in the gray sheathing for now. Next, we'll need to fish a second duplex wire, along with the left over black wire from the original duplex wire, into the engine compartment under the hood. Underneath the pedals here, there's a kick panel, or a plastic covering, that will need to be removed. There are 3 push fasteners that will need to be removed in order for this panel to come down. A flat head screwdriver, or a trim panel removal tool, works great to get these out. The first duplex cable that we routed into the cab with the white wire will get wired to our brake controller. Now, for the red wire, we are going to use the factory tow section, and we will find which wire is only hot when the brake pedal is pressed in. As you can see here, using our test light, we find that the white wire is essentially the brake switch wire.

The red wire will run over to the brake switch line. Now, in this case, our red wire was a little bit short. So, we actually had to add a little jumper wire, using a butt connector and a same gauge wire, to get it over to where we we're going to be using our quick splice connector. To connect this, we'll just be using a quick connect where you put the 2 wires together and squeeze them into the clamp, and then fold the top over. Now, for the actual connections to the factory wiring harness, we're going to be using butt connectors on the 3 wires. On the blue wire, the white wire, and the black wire. The additional white wire is the ground wire that will be connected to the white wire on the back of the brake controller harness, and the black wire is the positive wire, which will connect to the black wire that came in from the duplex wire through the grommet. Now, we're ready to go ahead and choose a mounting location to put our brake controller. You're only allowed up to a seventy degree angle to mount this particular brake controller. To mount the metal bracket to the dash, we're going to use 2 of the self tapping screws, and go ahead and mount the metal bracket first. With the metal bracket mounted, we're going to choose the holes that give us the best range of motion, as well as not in our way when we scoot the seat a little bit farther forward. Now, also to actually mount the brake controller to the bracket, you use an additional 4 self tapping screws, as well as a quarter inch ratchet or wrench, and go ahead and screw these in. Were going to go ahead and use a rotary tool and cut this section out to allow our wiring harness to come through it. Now, with this section cut out, we'll go ahead and feed the wiring harness through it, and then we'll put the lower kick panel back up into place.

With this panel back up underneath, we'll go ahead and put the push fasteners back in. Then, we can go ahead and make our connection to the back of the brake controller with the wiring harness. Now that we've routed our wires over to the passenger side on this particular vehicle, we're actually going to need to take a section of this plastic molding up by removing 4 push pin fasteners to allow us a little bit of movement. Now, with these removed, we'll go ahead and raise it up. Now, to mount your 2 breakers, it's best if you go ahead and remove this covering for the ground stud, as it'll give you a little more room to work. Cut this section out to give us an area to mount our 2 circuit breakers. Now that we've got the plastic trimmed away, we're ready to go ahead and mount our 20 and 40 amp circuit breaker. Now, for mounting these 2 circuit breakers, we're going to use some self tapping screws and go ahead and put them to the interior body right here. Now, we're going to take the single black wire from our original duplex wire, add a ring terminal, and attach it to the silver side of our 40 amp circuit breaker. For our second duplex wire that we routed into the engine compartment, we'll strip back the gray sheathing, and add a small ring terminal to the black wire, and a large ring terminal to the white wire. The small ring terminal will go to the silver side of the 20 amp circuit breaker, and the white wire will be grounded using the provided post, as shown here. Now, we'll make up our 2 jumper leads from leftover black wire. We'll attach 2 small ring terminals at one side of ends, and 2 larger rings terminals on the other end. The smaller ring terminals will attach to both copper posts on the circuit breakers. Both larger ring terminals will attach to the positive battery post. Now, we can go ahead and put this plastic covering piece back in place by putting the 4 push fasteners back in, as well as the push pin that holds the weather stripping in. Inside now, you can see that we have 2 dots, and if you slide the manual override over on the brake controller, you'll get an NC for not connected. Pushing this button allows you to adjust your boost, or how aggressive the brakes will come on at the trailer. Now, at the rear of the vehicle, we're going to go ahead and have someone run through the lights, and we use our test light for the 4 flat, and we'll go ahead and test to make sure everything is functioning okay. Once you connect your tester, or trailer, to the brakes, you'll see a C for connected, and now you can see when they pull a manual override on the brake controller, the gauge goes up, showing that we are getting power, and with that, that will conclude our installation of the Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller for 1 to 3 axles, part number TK90160, on our 2010 Chevy Traverse.

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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
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Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
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Jacob T
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Andrew L
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Kathleen M
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Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
David F
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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