Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2012 Ford F-150

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2012 Ford F-150

Today in this 2012 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Cab we're going to install part number 90195. This is a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller. All right now to help us with our install we're going to use part number 22292 from Tow Ready, the plug-in wiring trailer adapter. All right now we're actually going to start off with our adapter plug first. Our tow package port is right here, go ahead and release it from the tyrannical bonds of the electric tape. Now we need to remove this cap, just push down this tab right here, and your adapter cord will plug right in place. We'll leave it alone for now.

Now we'll go ahead and start working with our mount for our brake controller. Now we're going to mount on the bottom of the dash here, there's a nice little flat spot right here that we can attach the first half of our bracket. We'll use the self tapping screws that come with it to attach it. We'll take the second half of our bracket, slide it into place and line up the holes. We use the machine screws to attach it too.

Now before we tighten it down for good, it's a good idea to make sure the screws are a little bit loose, then you can adjust it to where you want it. We're going to go for level then tighten it down. Go ahead and take our brake controller and plug it into our dash record 01:32. Then we go ahead and take our brake controller and just go ahead and push it into place, and make sure that these ends snap into the holes that are inside of our brake controller. Then we'll go ahead and take some zip ties and secure our wires, make sure they're safe and secure and out of the way. Go ahead and we'll cut these guys short.

Now this is a tight spot over our screwdriver right here, move it over towards the center and you have a lot more room obviously. We took our bit for X drive with Phillips and just used a small little finger drive to work it in there. If this truck had a full tow package, we'd be finished, all we'd have to do is test it at the 7 pole connector, however this truck does not have the full tow package. It just has a factory 4 pole flat at the bumper, so what's happening is, is that our adapter underneath the dash has everything powered, a ground, our 12 volt power supply and our brake signal, but the blue wire from the brake controller doesn't go out past the firewall. We're going to go ahead and extend that blue wire from the adapter cord, out back to the bumper. Now to run our blue wire out to the back of the bumper we're going to have to run a hole through the firewall. We're going use this part of the grommet right here.

We're just going to take screwdriver and just poke it through to work the hole in it, and we can always pull our whole grommet back through when we're done. Now there might be two layers in here, so we'll get the first one with the screwdriver, then go underneath the hood and get access at it from the other side. All right now this is where we want to go through, eventually look for a wire. With our grommet loose we'll just go ahead and make a slit in here. Now we'll take our blue wire and make it through this cut and work it through our second cut we made to our screwdriver on the inside. Go ahead and take our wire, if you haven't started, and go ahead and pull some through. We'll then pull the grommet back into place. The wire we're using from a brake controller out to our bumper is part number 10-1-1. We're using about a 20 foot chunk, this should be more than enough for what we're using. All right, now to connect up a wire we're going to cut our blue wire that's come off a dasher 03:44 cable. We want to make sure that we leave the end from the tow package from the truck alone. Now we'll simply strip our wire, 'til the buck connector, connect up. Our new blue wire we'll go ahead and do the same thing, strip it back and connect it to our buck connector. Once again we'll get some zip ties and secure our wire. All right we've got it secured underneath the dash, let's go ahead and route it from the front back to our bumper. We're going to go above the body mount here and follow the brake lines. We'll go ahead and thread it through the mount from the bed and continue on. All right we'll go ahead and pull on our wire to our bumper, OK. Now take a few moments to go ahead and zip tie your wire, make sure it's safe and secure underneath your truck. Now the length of wire we used is about 25 foot length of wire. It's run from the cab of the truck to the back, eventually our 7 pole connector is going to need access to our 4 pole, so what we're going to do is actually move our 4 pole from the bracket. Typically it's just a press fit. Now the 7 pole connector we're going to use is part number 37185 from Hopkins, the adapter 4 pole to 7 pole and 4 pole. Now to help us mount our 7 pole connector to our hitch we're going to use part number 18136 from Tow Ready, the universal mounting bracket. Let's go put our mounting bracket on first, and then we'll go ahead and work with our 7 pole connector. If this is our bracket, can go on our hitch and then the clamp that comes with it will go through the bracket and around the hitch. We'll run the clamp back to itself and thread it through, OK, we'll get it started, so it'll be screwed back up towards itself, then tighten it up. We'll take a bracket with a 7 pole connector, we're going to mount it backwards to help recess the 7 pole connector, and we'll use the hardware that comes with it to attach to. Now figure a 7 pole connector and attach to our bracket, and we'll use the hardware that comes with it to attach it to. Now this is our wire that we ran from the front of our truck and we'll connect it to our preexisting blue wire from our 7 pole connector, so we've got a nice blue to blue all the way around. Let's go ahead and protect it with some electrical tape. Now we'll simply take our 2, 4 poles, and push them together. Now it's nice that this 4 pole has hardly been used and it's got dielectric grease in there already. Now this is a really tight fit with a jacket on our 4 pole here, might be a good idea to help secure it with some electric tape. Two wires that wont be used will be our purple wire, that's used for reverse lights. This has to be connected directly to the reverse light circuit, we're not going to be using it in this application, nor the black wire which is typically an auxiliary circuit for whatever you want, or more often than not a 12 volt power supply. Now we got our wires together and then we'll go ahead and set them aside for now and work for a white wire for the ring terminal. This will be our ground, this is welded to the frame, fully achieves this for our ground. All right, now we're using number 14 size self tapping screw. This seems to work the best with this size ring terminal, and to help dress up our wires by the 7 pole connector we'll use some loom material part number 459075-1, we use about a foot of it. Now we'll simply go ahead and secure the rest of our wires. We'll go ahead and try out, we hit our foot pedal, it'll say no trailer connected, then it'll tell you that warning for a certain amount of time then go off. Let's go ahead and plug in our trailer. With our trailer connected it shows a small icon of a truck and trailer, we've got blue screen and some numbers. All right let's go ahead and try out the manual override, you can see it sends out voltage numbers, so we're good there. We'll hit the foot brake and shows up a lower set of numbers, so we know we've got signal from the brake pedal. All right, looks like everything's working. Now finish it for our install part number 90195 from Tekonsha, the Prodigy P3 brake controller on our 2012 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Cab.

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Video by:
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Kathleen M
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Zach D
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
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Randy B
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Shane H
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David F
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Dustin K
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Chris R

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