Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2018 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2018 Chrysler Pacifica


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica we're going to be installing Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller. Part number TK90160. And to help us complete this installation, we'll be using eTrailer's universal installation wiring kit, part number ETBC7.This brake controller is going to proportionally send brake signal back to your trailer breaks. That means the harder you stop, the inertial sensor in here with detect the vehicle coming to a stop and will apply the brakes appropriately, depending on how hard you're stopping.It has a manual slider here and when you press on this you can manually apply the brakes. You can adust the sensitivity here for how hard you want it to be. It's easiest to see that sensitivity adjustment while holding over the manual slider.

The button located on top will allow you to set various boost settings. These boost settings are nice, depending on the trailer you may have connected.Boost one is for trailers that are lighter than your vehicle. Boost two is good for trailers that are roughly the same weight of your vehicle. Boost three is for trailers that are heavier than your vehicle. You can turn the boost off if you don't need it.

This can also be useful to turn it off when backing up.One of the nice things about this brake controller is that it can be mounted in 180 degrees, as long as it's the line of travel. So you don't have to worry about awkward mounting locations and you can kind of tuck it up nice. This one's actually pretty well out of the way in comparison with most brake controllers that have the larger mounting brackets that hand down and tilt down towards your leg. It's a lot more comfortable to drive with this unit.And there's an internal safety feature that'll help prolong the brakes on your trailer. So if you're at a prolonged stop it will ease up on the brakes on your trailer to help extend their life.Additionally, if your trailer becomes disconnected it will display and see on the display so you know that you're no longer applying brakes on your trailer.We'll begin our installation by preparing our seven pole connector.

We're going to get the bracket installed on the back. This just slides over it and you're going to attach it using the flat screw there, slide it through the hole, and attach a nut on the back side. We will repeat this for the three remaining holes and tighten them down using a flat bladed screwdriver.Now we're going to be installing our seven pole connector onto the pre-welded bracket that's on our hitch here. Now, if you don't have a pre-welded bracket you can pick up brackets here at eTrailer.com. You can get those in varying lengths for whatever you need.

We'll just slide our screw down through the top of our brackets and secure a nut on the bottom side. Then we'll tighten them down using a three-eighths socket. Now we'll connect our four pole connector to the four pole connector pre-installed on our vehicle and we'll zip tie that up here in a little bit.Next, we have a blue and black wire. We're going to connect those to the large duplex wiring that comes in our kit here. We'll need to strip back some of that duplex. We'll use a razor knife to cut down our wiring there. We'll just peel that back and snip it off. And we'll strip back our black and white wire. And now our two wires here that we have coming off of our seven pole, we're going to take the black to the black and the white to the blue. They don't come with heat shrink butt connectors, so we are going to upgrade ours.We're just going to cut those off and strip back both of these wires. You don't have to, but it is a good idea to upgrade to heat shrink butt connectors since these do live outside the vehicle. That heat shrink will help prevent moisture from getting in there, causing corrosion. This will ensure you have a longer lasting connection. We'll now attach our heat shrink butt connectors, and again we're going black to black and white to blue. We'll then shrink those down with a heat gun.We're not going to connect our ground wire. You want to take the larger self tapping screw from your kit and we're just going to run it into our bumper beam here using a three-eighths inch socket. You may have to pull back slightly on this plastic panel in order to get a straight shot up into that. Now we can just take this excess wiring, we're just going to zip tie it up out of the way. We don't want to do that with our duplex wires, we're going to run that to the front, but the rest we're just going to zip tie up.The purple wire is for back up lights, so if you have a connection point on your vehicle for those you'd connect them. But on our Pacifica right now we don't have that connection, so we're just going to zip tie that up.Next, we're going to route our duplex wiring up to the front of our vehicle in the engine compartment. When routing this wire you want to make sure you avoid any moving objects, such as your steering and suspension or any that's excessively hot like your exhaust. I'm going to route this wire now and then I'll show you the path I took to get there.I went ahead and put some of the conduit that comes in the kit on our wiring where it pokes up here and then we took our duplex wiring and we routed it back underneath this cover. Now you will need to take out a couple screws here and a couple nuts here in order to make this routing easier. You can take all of these out with a 10 millimeter socket. From there, we go up over our suspension here. You can kind of see it up through here. We stay on top of all that suspension components until it comes out down along our fuel tank here.We then routed it down alongside the fuel tank, staying underneath this cover here. Once we got here to the front of the fuel tank, we did have to remove a couple nuts again with that same 10 millimeter socket. And we followed our wire all the way down this panel on the inside of these studs, so you will have to remove these again, all the way up. And once you've got it up here to the front, you can re-install all of your nuts that you removed.I'm now going to use a piece of airline tube as fish wire to pull up that duplex wiring from down below. We're going to route it down back along our firewall. We're doing this pretty close next to our brake booster and brake lines, since we know those are going to be routed out of the way, so they won't be near anything moving that's going to harm them.Here's our fish line that we ran down. We just used some electrical tape to tape our duplex wiring to it and now we can use that to help feed it back up. So we'll go up top now and we'll pull the rest of the wire up. Now that you've got your wiring pulled up, it's a good idea to check back down below just to make sure that it pulled all the way up and there's not a loop hanging down or anything.Next, we'll mount our circuit breakers. We're going to use the one labeled 40 amp and also the one labeled 30 amp. We're going to mount those here on our driver's side. We're going to mount one on this panel her and one on this panel here. So we can line those up. We'll use our quarter inch socket with the self tapping screw that comes with it to get those mounted. We're going to use the same process to mount our other circuit breaker on this little panel right here.We're now going to run our wiring over towards our circuit breakers. We're going to zip tie it to the factory wiring along the way. From here, we're going to need to strip back all the sheathing off the rest of our duplex wiring. Our black wire here is going to connect to the aux post of our 40 amp circuit breaker. That's going to be our silver post. We're going to make sure we have enough wire to get there. I'm going to leave a little excess. Then we'll cut that wire. We can strip back this black wire now and connect a yellow ring terminal to it. We're going to use one of the smaller yellow ring terminals. We're just going to unthread this nut, slide it on, thread the nut back on, and tighten it down with a three-eighths socket.It just needs to be snug. You don't need to overdo it. We'll now take the excess black wire that we just cut off. We're going to strip that back and we're going to crimp on another small yellow ring terminal. This ring terminal is going to connect to our other circuit breaker. This is going to be power to our brake controller. We want to hook this to the silver stud, so we're going to put that on here. I'm going to angle it back towards the vehicle because this is going to get routed inside, so we're going to angle it off this way. We'll put that nut back on and it also tightens down with a three-eighths socket.We'll be saving the other two connections on our circuit breaker until the very end because once they're hooked up these will be live and we don't want to cause any shorts. Now we're going to route both our white and black wires inside the vehicle. In order to do this we're going to do our fish wire trick. We'll start that inside the vehicle, pushing our fish wire from the inside out.We're now inside the vehicle on our driver's side. We're down here on the floor and on the back wall we're going to need to run our fish wire through. Take a Phillips head screwdriver and we're going to poke through the grommet located here, just to the left of our steering shaft. And that will give us a hole to poke our wire through. So we'll take our fish wire. We're just using some airline tubing. We're going to poke it through that hole that we just made.And now we can go back on the outside and finish pulling it through. Our grommet comes out just underneath our brake booster. Your brake booster is connected right here to your master cylinder reservoir. I'm going to go just to the right and down, so behind our air box back on the firewall. I like to reach in around underneath the boot here. And we're going to grab our fish wire and just start feeding it up. And we're going to pull it up. You don't want to pull it too far because we don't want to pull it all the way through. We just need enough to connect our wires to so we can pull them inside.We'll now take our black and white wire. We're going to tape it to our fish wire here. When you're taping it to these, I recommend that you tape all the way over the top to try and make as smooth point as possible, so that way it doesn't get caught up when you're pulling it inside. We'll now pull our fish wire back in. If it pulls your grommet out that's okay. You can just poke that back in. That's not a big deal. It just pokes back into place. Now we'll just pull our wiring inside. Again we want to check outside to make sure we didn't get caught up on anything when we we're pulling it in.Now we're going to trim our wires down. We don't need all this length. I'm going to go ahead and leave some excess so we can route it properly and make sure it's out of the way, but still have enough to do everything we need to do. So we're going to trim off about to there. Now we need to make our connections to our brake controller. This connector comes with our brake controller. We're going to go ahead and make all those connections now.We're going to connect our black wire to the black wire on our controller, so we're going to strip that back. We're going to use the yellow butt connectors that come in the kit. These don't need to be heat shrunk since it's inside the vehicle, it'll be fine. It's not exposed to the elements. So we'll crimp one onto the black wire we ran in and we're going to crimp one onto the black wire that goes to our controller. The white wire that we ran in we're going to strip back and that's going to connect to the blue wire on our brake controller harness. We're going to use the yellow butt connectors that come with our kit.Okay, and then our white wire is our ground wire. We're going to be mounting that on one of the studs back that connect to our brake pedal. What we're going to do is, we're just going to go ahead and use some of this excess white wire that we have. We're going to measure it out to be roughly the same length as the wire we ran in from the firewall there. We're going to cut that off. We're going to strip back both ends of this white wire. We'll connect one end with a yellow butt connector. The other end of that yellow butt connector is going to connect to the white wire from our harness here and the other end of our white wire is going to connect to a yellow ring terminal.I'm going to wait to connect this yellow ring terminal to the vehicle until later so that way we can ensure we've got it all routed properly and out of the way. So we've just got that prepared. Lastly, we have our red wire, which is our brake signal wire. Due to the brake pedal signal on this vehicle, on our brake pedal sensor being a travel sensor, it doesn't have the typical output that you need for your brake controller. In order to get that signal we're going to be using our third brake lamp output. That way, whenever we hit the brakes our third brake lamp is going to come on anyway, so we can use that signal to let our brake controller know we're pressing the brake pedal.Now our brake pedal signal we're going to get from our body control module. The body control module is located here. There's going to be a small covering here. We'll just take this off. You just pop those out with your trim panel remover tool. You can actually see the two bolts here that hold our body control module in place. This module extends pretty far up this panel. The connector that we're going to need to use is the top right connector, so it's going to be at the top of the module towards the front of the vehicle. And we're going to be tapping in to the dark green wire with a white stripe.We're going to use the quick splice connector that comes with our kit and we are going to need some extra wire to extend that over to our new harness. You can pick up some extra wire here at eTrailer.com with part number 16-1-1.And now we'll connect that wire coming from our brake signal, our third brake signal to our harness using another yellow butt connector. We're now going to mount our brake controller, so we're going to use the plastic one here and it's going to connect right here. We're going to put it in the position that we'd like it to be. We're going to place ours just here below our interior temperature sensor.We're going to go ahead and hold that in position and put our screw through it. We're going to use a quarter inch socket to tighten it down. Again, we want it to be about here, so we're going to run it in. We'll use another screw to make sure that we've got it adjusted the way we want it. That looks about level there. And now we can just snap our brake controller into place.We're going to route our wiring between our air bag here and our floor vents. And actually we can just plug this in and we can zip tie the rest of our wires here to our large factory wiring harness coming out of our firewall there. We're going to need to connect our ground wire to one of the studs connecting to our brake pedal. You can connect it to any one, but to keep it away from our steering shaft I'm going to connect it to the top left one here. We've removed the nut with a 13 millimeter socket, we slid our ring terminal over the stud, and then we're just going to put the nut back on and tighten it down.We'll now take our excess black wire, we're going to cut that in half. Then we're going to strip back each end of each half of our black wire. On one end of each of the black wires we're going to crimp on small yellow ring terminals and then on the other end of our black wire we're going to crimp on large yellow ring terminals. All of these are included in your kit. We'll take the two wires with the small ends and we're going to connect one to one bronze post of one of the circuit breakers and the other one is going to connect to the other bronze post of the other circuit breaker.The fuse box cover here comes off easily by pinching both tabs. We'll remove the nut with a 10 millimeter socket, and this is going to be our battery positive power. We'll connect both of our large ring terminals onto this stud. Once both are connected we'll reinstall the nut. And you can now reinstall your fuse panel cover.We've now got our trailer tester plugged in. You can also plug in your trailer to test it out. When we hit our brakes, you'll see there that we're applying voltage. Now we're only applying a small amount of voltage because we have it set on a very low sensitivity setting. If we move our manual slider, you'll see that we're applying full voltage. Now with everything working properly, we're ready to hit the road.And that completes our installation of Tekonsha Primus IQ trailer brake controller on our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica.


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