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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan


Today on our 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan, we're going to show you the Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller, part number TK90160. This is what the brake controller looks like once it's installed on our Caravan here. First off, we'll cover what you can see. We've got our bracket here, and of course, our brake controller. It's a nice sleek unit, pretty thin. The bracket it comes with makes the brake controller easily removable so you can trade it between different vehicles. If you ever need to activate trailer brakes by themselves, you can move to manual override. You can see how the numbers scroll up to showing the power.

The power is controllable by this knob right here. This is our gain 00:00:45, and if I pull all the way back, it actually has no power going out. When you initially set up your trailer, you're probably going to set it at around six or so. When you test drive, basically hit the brakes, and see how hard they hit. If you need more power, you just simply push the dial up just a little bit at a time to get it the way you want it.

If it's too much brakes, of course, you just go backwards a little bit. When we hit our brake petal, it will also show you a signal how much power is being used, as well. Totally proportional brake controller so what that means is you have a sensor on the inside. When you hit your brakes, it can tell how hard you are slowing down and it matches that with power going out toward the trailer brakes. To help us with our install today, we'll be using a couple of different part numbers. We'll be using the universal mounting bracket, part number 18136 from Tow Ready. Also, we will be using the ETBC7 kit.

This will help us with the install of our brake controller. The ETBC7 will provide all the wiring, the electrical connections, and even the tester to get the vehicle ready to install the brake controller. This bracket is going to install on the bottom of our hitch here, and we'll use the provided clamp to install it. Run the clamp back though itself. Take up the access and snap up the screw here, and then we'll tighten it down. We'll snug it down, make any adjustments you need to move it back and forth, then we'll tighten it up for good. Next, we'll add our 7-pole connector, which is from the ETBC7 kit, and we use the hardware that came off our bracket to put the two together.

Let's add our 7-pole connector. We'll run the wires through the gap at the bottom of the bracket. Then we'll install the connector to the bracket using provided hardware. Now we can make our first electrical connection. We're going to take this 4-pole end right here, we'll connect that to the pre-existing 4-pole connector on our van. They will simply push together. Before I do that, I'll apply some dielectric grease to it to help connect the contacts because this will be a semi-permanent connection when we're done. Now dielectric grease we're using is part number 11755 from LubriMatic. To give it some extra protection, we'll wrap it up with some electrical tape, as well. Next up, will be our white wire with a ring terminal. That will be for our ground connection. Right now we can use this purple wire for any other dedicated circuit for our trailer. In this case, we will not be installing this. With these two wires, I'm just going to keep them together in case we use the purple wire for a future upgrade. I'll push some loose wrapped electrical tape around them to help keep them bundled. Then we'll attach our ground wire to the sheet metal right just behind the bumper. We used the provided self-tacking screw for this purpose. We need to use a 3/8 nut driver to install it. The black wire is used for our total power supply. An example would be interior lights on a trailer. The blue wire here is for the electrical brakes on the trailer. Eventually the output of our Primus IQ Brake Controller will go through this wire and out to our trailer. Let's add our cable to it. We'll first remove the sheaves. Then we'll strip back the wires, then attach to our other wires. We don't have an exact color to color match. We'll go black to black, and white to blue. For some extra protection, we'll wrap it up in some electrical tape as well. We'll add some more black tape just to help keep everything together. Then, we'll use some of the provided wire loom to help hide the color of the wires better down by the hitch. What we're going to do is go ahead and just zip-tie our wires to the top of the hitch. I'm actually using a longer zip-tie than what comes with the ETBC7 kit. In this case, probably about like a 14 inch length zip-tie would be more than adequate. Then we'll continue on with our grey cable. Now we'll run our grey cable up towards the front. We want to make sure we stay away from anything moving like suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. We'll show you how we routed our wires. Everybody is going to do it differently but this is how we did ours. We zip-tied to the hitch right here, and also right here, right along side the rear suspension here, through some wires and some brake lines, behind the shock tower here, and next to the fuel tank through here, zip-tied in some more lines. Basically from here on out follow the parking brake cable all the way up. Now, next we'll take the end of our cable and we'll route this through the top. To help us do that, we'll use a pull wire. Let's go ahead and pull up our wire, make sure to take up all the slack. We need two circuit breakers. One of them is going to be for a black wire going out to our trailer for our total power supply. That will use a 40 amp circuit breaker. The second circuit will be our power supply going out towards our brake controller. That will use a 20 amp circuit breaker. To install circuit breakers, we'll be installing with self-tapping screws, and we'll need to use a 1/4 inch nut driver for that purpose. Drill in one screw to hold it, we'll drill in the other one that will overlap our circuit breakers. Let's bring our cable back up, we're going to route it though our 40 amp circuit breaker, and out to our total power supply right here. Go ahead and go a little bit farther down the line. We'll run past our positive terminal here, maybe about a foot and a half or so and cut off our access. Now, we're going to take a moment and split our wire harness in half, separating the wires. We'll separate our white wire. Let's route our black wire back to our 40 amp circuit breaker. We'll cut it in half and add two small ring terminals and connect it to our circuit breaker. The end of our black wire going out to our 7-pole connector will go to the side labeled, "AUX," silver post on this one. Our other wire will go to the copper post which is labeled, "BAT" for battery. All right. Now, let's take the other end of our cable going out to our battery here, and we'll install a large ring terminal. Eventually this wire will be hooked up to our battery here, but I like to leave that as one of the last things I connect up before we try out our brake controller. Let's set that to the side for now. We'll go back to our white wire here. We'll find a way to run this inside to power our brake controller. Now to run our wires from the inside to the outside, we're going to go through this grommet right here. There are two layers to this grommet, the one on the inside right here, and there's also another layer that is kind of cone-shaped going to the outside. So we need to cut through both. What I'm going to use is a slender pocket knife, and gently poke through. Stay above the wires, kind of go in an upward motion. Then we'll take our pull wire that we used earlier and push it through, and pull our white wire and some more of the grey cable back through. For this install, we've actually ran out of cable, we didn't have enough to go back from the inside to the outside so we'll have to get an extra length of cable for that. The part number for the wire we're using is 10-2-1. We'll slowly pull it through our grommet. Let's leave our wires alone for now. We'll go back underneath the hood. We'll make our connections ready for our black wire and a sheath here. Just like we did before with our first cable, we'll route it to over to our circuit breaker. In this case, we'll be going to our 20 amp circuit breaker and then out to our battery. Cut off any excess length we have. We'll take a moment and slit our wire harness in half separating the wires. This white wire will eventually be our ground. Let's put that to the side and we'll concentrate on our black wire going to our 20 amp circuit breaker. Our wire going out to our brake controller eventually will go to the auxiliary, "AUX" side. Our other wire will go to the copper post which is labeled, "BAT." This end will get another large ring terminal. Again, we'll leave this one as one of our last connections to the battery. Our white wire needs to go directly to ground so we can put it directly to the negative side of the battery here. We'll cut it to length, and add another large ring terminal. Again, we'll leave this as one of our last connections to the battery. We're back inside the cabin of the vehicle. We want to get these wires ready to install our wire harness to our brake controller. We'll strip these guys back, and we'll install the butt connectors that come with the ETBC7 kit. At this point, we can start working with our IQ Primus Brake Controller. I'm using the parts that come in the package, brake controller, a couple of different brackets to attach to the dashboard, and a wire harness, and some sheet metal screws. Things to know about our brake controller when you install it, it can be installed horizontal like this, up to 70 degrees. It has to be a straight line with the vehicle and as little side-to-side tilt as possible. Let's go ahead and free up our wires and get them ready to attach. Now, let's attach them to our wires. Our single white wire here, this will go to the output on our brake controller and go out to the blue wire on our trailer. Let's go ahead and connect those guys up. Two wires bundled together will be a simple, color-color mix. The ground is a little bit of a lighter gauge wire so we'll fold it over and give it more grip onto our butt connector. We've got one wire left. This is our red wire. This actually has to go to a cold side of the brake switch. This is what turns on the brake controller. We're going to strip this wire back a little more. I'm going to use some scrap wire to lengthen this up so we can go over to our brake switch above the brake petal. I'm going to use our last butt connector that's in our ETBC7 kit, and connect these wires up. We'll demonstrate what wire we need. We're looking at the white wire with the green stripe. We'll hit the brake petal, that's the signal that we're looking for. We'll go ahead and use the quick splice connector that comes with the ETBC7 kit. First, we'll snap it over to the wire that we want to tap into. Then we'll slide our red wire on the other side of it. Now, we'll have the two wires next to each other in the clip. We'll push down on the metal strip in the middle with some pliers, and now connect the two wires. Put the cap back in place. We'll try it out at the other end to make sure it works. All right. It looks like everything works there. Now all we need to do is mount up our brake controller, and catch our wires. We'll put in our bracket, and we'll install it over to the right hand side here. We'll install one screw, double-check to make sure that it's in a straight line with the vehicle, and then we'll install the second screw. Let's go ahead and hook up our wire to the back of our brake controller. Let's put it in place. We'll line up the notch on the brake controller to fit with these notches here, and we'll push up into place. We're pretty close to a 70 degree angle right here. There's a couple of notches where you can adjust this forward or back. I've got mine at the lowest position going towards this way. Plus it makes it easier to get access to the box as well. Let's take a moment. We'll use some of the included 00:16:44 material to hide with the color of our wires here. We'll zip-tie our wires to make sure they are out of the way of the petals. After we are done with the zip-tie here, let's go back under the hood and make our connections to the battery. Remember our positive side, we have two wires to hook up. We'll loosen with up with a 10 mm socket, and move the nut to that post. Reinstall the nut, and tighten it down. That's our positive side. We're going to do the same thing over on our negative side of the battery but we're going to use a different size socket which will be a 12 mm. Now, with power hooked up, we see we have two dots, one here and here. Okay That tells us we have power and one of the boost buttons is engaged. Let's press the button. Boost one, boost two, boost three, no boost. So we're down to one dot. Our dot on the right hand side will be our . Let's us know that that is our boost setting, and this is our power right here. Let's try the manual override. It says, "N/C" for no connection which is good because we don't have a trailer hooked up. Let's hook up a trailer to it and we'll check our brakes as well. Trailer hooked up, you can see a, "C" for connection. We'll hit our manual override and we'll see it scroll through some numbers then. Let's put a boost setting back on, then we'll hit our brake petal. We should see some numbers come up. It definitely tells us we've got a signal for our brake petal as well. That does it for Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller, part number TK90160 on our 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan.


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Test Fit:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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