Solera Slider Slide-Topper Installation - 2002 Itasca Suncruiser Motorhome

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How to Install the Solera Slider Slide-Topper on a 2002 Itasca Suncruiser Motorhome

Today on our 2002 F53 Chassis Motor Home, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Solera 12.5' Slider or Slide-Topper in Black with Black Hardware, part number LCV000177334, as well as the Solera 7.5' Slider or Slide-Topper in Black with Black Hardware, part number LCV000165062.Here's what our Lippert Solera Slide-Out Awning is going to look like once we have it fully installed. Now, these are going to be specifically made for the slide-outs on our RV or our camper, and it's going to come in a wide variety of sizes. Here we have a 12.5' one for our living room, and then here on the other side we have a 7.5' one for the bedroom. The whole purpose of the slide-out awning is because whenever we have our pop-out out we want to make sure that no debris, any tree limbs, leaves, acorns, or anything else is going to get stuck in between and get caught in the track and possibly damage any of the hydraulic components or any gears inside. This is going to keep all that debris on top of it making sure it doesn't get inside that track, and it's also going to have a slight overhang, making sure it doesn't come in from the side either.Now, this awning is going to be in black with all black hardware so it's going to match nicely with everything, and the brackets and all the hardware is included. Now, one nice thing about the brackets is that it is going to be a universal bracket, and it is going to match most competitor brands' bolt pattern.

So we're not going to have to worry about filling in any holes or drilling any new holes in the side of our RV. The awning is going to be able to extend out up to 50", which is going to be about 8" more than most of the competitors. So even for those really deep rooms, we're still going to have the full coverage from anything falling inside.Now, to make sure you pick the right awning for you, there is one measurement that we have to take and a few things to keep in mind. We're going to take a tape measure and hook it onto the very outside edge and bring it across to the very other outside edge and take that total measurement. From edge to edge is going to be about 82", just under 7'.

Our 7.5' awning is going to cover rooms from 80" all the way up to 85-3/4". One thing to keep in mind is that you do need 6" of total clearance to make sure that the brackets clear and there's no obstructions. And because each awning is going to have that range that it's going to fit, you want to make sure that the measurements you find is within that range, so that we have a slight overhang on each side so we can have full protection for our slide-out room.Whether you're replacing one or adding one to a slide-out room, our Solar Slide-Out Awnings are going to be a great option to keep our rooms protected. We are replacing the one over here on the drive side as well as one in the back on the passenger side, and although they're different sizes, they're going to install identically. So we're going to go ahead and replace this one, and we'll do the second one together.To start out, we're going to set our roller up.

Now, on the ends here you'll notice that we're going to have that Lippert symbol on this little arm, and then on the bottom of the arm there's going to be a small hole. So we can grab the bar and you'll notice that there's going to be another small hole. We're going to want to make sure that that lines up with that hole on the bottom. So we need to come from the outside threading it in, again, making sure that hole lines up, but you want that section of the bar that's sticking out to be towards the center. We can grab our endcap here.

You'll notice there's going to be a section that's cut out. You want that to face down towards the hole as well. So we just kind of line up the endcap. We can push it in place.We're going to grab the self-threading screws, see kind of have little notches on the end there. That's going to help cut the threads in and keep everything in place. We'll start it by hand just loosely getting it in there. We'll grab a Phillips head screwdriver and start tightening everything up. Now, I will let you know this is going to be a little bit of a snug fit, but that screw is meant to cut the threads, so a little bit of tension's okay. We're going to go and repeat that for the other side, but this time don't put the screw in. You just want to have the endcap and the bar loosely in place.We already have an existing slide-topper on our motor home, so we're going to go ahead and remove it so we can get the new one in place. Now, one thing I do want to mention is these slide-toppers do have a lot of tension because there's a spring inside these arms. So before you remove the last bolt, holding these arms or brackets in place, you want to make sure that you have a firm grip on it because they are going to tend to want to go up, and you don't want it to scratch or damage your RV or catch you in the face. With this side removed, we're going to go and remove the other side as well. Just remember that typically you are going to have at least one fastener on each side of the top of the fabric in the channel that's holding it in place. So while we're over here we'll go to remove that one as well.Now, with an extra set of hands, we're going to make sure that those arms are kind of pulled away from our motor home a little bit so it doesn't scratch, and then we're going to slide the fabric and the roller out towards the back of the motor home. Once we clear the motor home, I'm going to go ahead and unwind that spring, so I won't have to worry about it coming loose on me, just enough to where there's not a lot of tension on it. We'll continue to slide the old topper out, again, holding onto that bar until the fabric's all the way out, and then, again, just slowly unwind that roller so it doesn't get away from us.Our kit is going to come with new brackets just like the ones that we removed from the old awning. Now, if we look at from the side, it's going to have that flat section with the holes and then a large hole. You want to make sure that, that is tapering out away from the motor home, and this section is going to be what's mounting against it. So we're going to flip it over because we want to make sure everything's sealed up. We're going to take some butyl tape. I'm just going to put it directly onto the back of that bracket, trim off the excess, make sure it sticks well, remove the backing from there, and put a second layer on the bottom. This is going to seal up any kind of holes for whenever we drill these into place, make sure that water doesn't get inside and it seals everything up. We'll do that for the front and the rear bracket.To secure our bracket to the motor home itself, we're going to have these five holes, and they are going to provide us with some self-tapping screws with black heads on it, so we won't see it as much when we put them in place. Now, you're going to need a square bit, a #2 square bit, in order to put these in. But to start I'm just going to put one through the bracket and through the butyl tape. That way I can get everything lined up and secure this to the side of the motor home.So now you could see where the existing holes we're from our old bracket. They're going to line up with our new bracket. But if you're installing the awning without any existing one on there and you're going from scratch, you want to make sure when you put this bracket in place that it's nice and square against the opening and, again, this large loop is kind of tilted out and away from the motor home and that it's on top. We'll go and get that one screw started and then put the rest of the hardware in.As you can see, that butyl tape is starting to squeeze out around the edges. That way we know we're going to have a nice tight seal. We're not going to have to worry about leaking. So we're going to go ahead and put the other bracket in place on the front side. Now, again, if you're not replacing an existing one, but you're installing a new slider top, our kit is going to come with a protrusion to where the awning fabric is going to slide into. Now, obviously, we had one because we pulled the fabric out of it, so we're not going to be using this pice because we don't want to put any more holes than we have to in our RV. But they provide you with all the screws necessary to get it in there. You will just need that butyl tape to make sure that it doesn't leak.So, with an extra set of hands, we're going to take our fabric, and if you look at the arms again, you want to make sure that the Lippert is going up and that bar is going to be going down towards the bottom. We'll take our fabric and we'll slide it into that channel, and we're just going to start sliding the roller and the fabric in. Sometimes you may need to move to make sure you're supporting everything. We're not just relying on that fabric to hold the awning up, and then once we get to the arm, you want to put your arm that we're putting on the end into that bracket we put in. So then on the far end where we left everything loose, we can go past it, bring that bar out, and then slide it in from the outside, so it's a lot easier.We'll just have to line up that hole on the bottom along with the cap on the end and replace the screw once everything else is in. With the slider in place, we want to make sure that it's centered over the opening. So we're going to want to find a reference point to measure off of. I'm going to use the outside of the opening right here at the outer flange. I'm going to measure over to the bracket on my topper, and I'm going to make sure that measurement is the same on both sides.Now, on your bracket you'll notice that you're going to have two more holes right where that bar goes through. You'll want to grab the self-tapping screw that's in your kit and a 5/16 nut driver, and this will keep that bar from sliding back and forth and prevent the awning from moving. We're just going to drill it right into that bar. We're going to have two for each side.Now, at the top section where our fabric rolled in, our kit is going to provide us with a 1/4" self-tapping screw. So we're going to get a nut driver and we're going to be going through that protrusion into that cord that's in our fabric, and that's just what's going to keep it in place, from sliding back and forth. You just want to make sure that you go through that metal of the protrusion and then into the plastic. We're going to have one on each side about 1" from the edge of our fabric.Now on the front side we're still going to have that screw by the endcap that needs to go in place, but it is kind of at a bad angle since it's already installed on our motor home. So we're going to have to have the slide-out come out a little bit to give us a little bit of extra room to get that in there. But before we can pull the slide-out, you want to make sure that you pull these metal clips out, and it's really just there to hold the roller together in transport to make sure it doesn't come unraveled.Going to be a small tab. Get a screwdriver, we can pull that down, and once we get it out of the way, it's going to pull the other section out of the roller. Maybe a little bit of a tight fit. We just kind of roll the roller up a little bit and we can pull it out. Now when we pull the second one out, you want to make sure that you have a firm grip on it because, again, that spring is going to want to roll the roller up and take all that slack out of the fabric. So we'll go ahead and pull the other one out as well. We can put that final screw in with plenty more room with the slide-out partially extended.That'll finish up your look at the Solera 12.5' Slider and the Solera 7.5' Slider in Black with Black Hardware on our 2002 Ford F53 Chassis Motor Home.

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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Dustin K
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Installed by:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
David F

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