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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox

Today on our 2015 Chevrolet Equinox we're going to be showing you how to install the SMI Stay-n-Play duo supplemental braking system. This is proportional. It's part number is SM99251. Now that we've confirmed that our operating unit is functioning, let's check the operation of the actuator itself and make sure that the cable is positioned correctly. Here is our operating unit. This is what we're going to be mounting under the hood here. We've got pretty limited options as far as where we can put this.

Let's check out over here. Of course, over there it was interfering with the air filter. I just want to make sure we're not going to have any interference issues wherever we decide to mount it. That could be a good location. What we'll do is in the flange here there's some holes. We can use some self-tapping screws there or zip ties if we want.

We'll probably do some self-tappers in these two here in the front. Then, we've got access to that one on the rear. We can just use a zip tie there and give it a little extra support. Now it's time to get our G-force controller installed. This uses a tab here on the back side and a tab here on the front side. We would need to find an area where our box could be level.

We want the face of it facing towards the passenger side. About the best area we're going to find here on the Equinox is going to be right down in here. We need to use caution because if we get this up here too high then we can't operate our parking brake. Let's push it down to its last click. We want to be sure we get down well below that, kind of jam it down in there. Then, that's the release, so we'll still have full function on our parking brake.

Take two of the provided self-tapping screws. Of course you want to make sure we don't have anything behind that we might run into. Then, we'll get it set in here nice and level. Now we can look underneath the dash here. We're going to remove a few panels to help us continue along with our wire. We're going to pull the panel off right here. We've got a screw right in here. It's a seven millimeter head and another one right over here. Let's get those both taken out. We'll just pull out on the bottom lightly, separate a couple clips there and that will slide out. I want to pull out on it and press down on that tab and it'll just slide right out for us. Set this aside so we can put it back in in just few minutes. With that out of the way we'll have one more screw right here we'll want to pull out and then a couple little push tabs. We push those in and they'll just come on down for us. The other one will be right here. We're also going to have a small push pin fastener located just to the right of the top of the gas pedal, right here. Use a small screw driver or pick for that. Then, once we pull that over there's going to be another one behind there just for good measure. Let's get that one separated as well. Now, careful on this one because this plastic goes down into the back side. You don't want to drop these in there. One last little connection and we'll have this panel down. You see on the back side here we've got a little nut that we're going to pull off. That one is a ten mill. That will give us the access we need to get up here to our switch. Now we've got our duplex wire loop here, it's the red and brown. It has two different ends on it. You can see here our red wire is going into the insulated side. Here, our red wire is going into the blank side. These are going to attach together. The side that has the non-insulated red is going to go right on the end of our light, our indicator light here. This side we're going to mount underneath our dashboard somewhere in a convenient area where we can easily hook it up and disconnect it, but not somewhere that it's going to be hanging so far out where it's always in our way. We'll take our other end with the non-insulated red side. We'll just stick it down through there. Let's use a zip tie to anchor that off. All right, now here on the other side, just going to trim this end off, leaving a little bit of wire for us to work with there. Then, we'll just plug it in to this other side here. We'll let that hang out for now. For our two wires remaining in here, our red one is going to be routed outside of the vehicle. This is going to connect to the blue wire that runs between the breakaway switch and the operating unit. Our brown wire, we're going to route it right over here by the controller, bring it over, keep it up and out of the way. This is going to run right over here to our black wire. Let's go ahead and throw another zip tie on it to keep that from wiggling around. Now we're going to drop a piece of hairline tubing or coat hanger right down behind this panel. I want to pull my brown wire down behind that. I don't want it to just hang down here where it might interfere with the parking brake and stuff. Just get that tucked in there. If we reach underneath here we should be able to pinpoint our cool 05:45 wire, pull that on out. What I'm going to do is just work it up along that bottom side and put our brown wire right into the end. Hit it with a little tape. Then we can use that to pull it down where we want it just like that. Now, we're going to be connecting it right onto our black wire here. We don't need a lot of extra slack. Strip the end of the brown wire. To that we're going to add a male spade connector. For our black wire, we're going to add a clip on there. You have a little channel where that wire will slide down into. Hold it and take a pair of pliers and get it clipped closed, just like that. We can simply take that spade connector and slide it right in. We're going to pull on our brown wire a little bit here. That will just take that extra slack out and keep that connection down out of the way behind the box. Let's go ahead and take care of mounting our light inside here. To make our connection for our light we're going to strip off the end, both the red and brown wires here. To those we add a butt connector. Then we'll bring the red wire right into the butt connector there. You can see it's got an enlargement tip that will actually give our butt connector something to grab. That fine wire just won't grab that stuff real well. Crimp it down so it's nice and secure. We can do the same thing for the black to the brown. Once you've got those made, this is going to be inside of the car. We're not necessarily going to be in the car as it's in operation but it's still going to be something visible, so let's take a minute to just wrap it up, make it look nice. That will plug in there that way we can quickly disconnect it when we're not towing. Then, when we get ready to switch on, it's not going to take a long time to find wires and get them connected. We can plug in right there and that will give us our monitor light up on our windshield. Now let's just clean off the back of our LED strip light here, our indicator light. A little alcohol, let that dissolve and then we'll use the provided hook and loop fasteners here. We'll apply that right to the back. Press it on there really well. We've got a nice flat mounting surface right here we're going to be able to use. Over here it's ventilated. It's probably for a light sensor or something of that nature, so we're going to stay away from that. From this point all the way over we've got clear reality 08:34 there. Clean it up. All right now we can give that hook and loop some time to get really good and attached while we take care of the rest of our wiring here. Now we're ready to go through the firewall with our wiring. We've got the one that comes from our monitor light. It's red. Then, we're going to have five that come out of the controller here. We're going to have a white, a yellow, a green, a black and another red. Also along with this, we need to send out our airline tubing. It's going to give us a total of five, six and seven items to pass through. There is a grommet located right up here behind our wiring. There's a little piece of insulation. Pull that down and back. Just behind there, right here is a rubber grommet. See a round shape there We're going to try to pass right through that soft part of that rubber. As we do this though, we do want to ensure that we don't do any damage to the existing factory wiring. What I'm going to do is take a razor knife and make a very small cut in there, avoiding my wiring. That will allow for our fish cable, or in our case a small air hose to slide through there so we can pull everything along with it. All right, once we get that to pass through feed as much through as we can. You can see ours came out right around the top side. You'll either find it coming out right here or right down in between the shock tower and our power box. You go right down in that area, it's going to come out in one of those two places. Pull the end of it out there. Route it back down because I want it to run along the bottom side of that box. Routing this is just a matter of preference. Bring it on out here to where we'll have plenty of room to make our connections with our existing vehicle wiring from our motor home to the tail lights in our vehicle and also our Stay-n-Play duo. I'm going to start connecting the wires. Remember we've got six wires and one airline tube that we're going to go through. We want to keep this as sleek as we can. There's a couple things we can do to help this move right along. I have our wires coming from the controller. We're going to start adding these on. This is going to be the leading edge, so we want this one to be wrapped up really nicely and really tightly. Now we're going to work our way down a little bit. We'll just add a wire every so often to keep everything smooth. We've got one here, one here and another one here. We're just going to lay them right beside each other. The wires that we have from our controller down here are a little bit longer than the red wire that we're going to have off that monitor light. The air hose is a little bit longer, too, so we're going to go ahead. Let's get these started through and then we'll attach our shorter wire once we get these through a little bit of the way. A little spray lubricant on that grommet, also a little bit here on our wiring going through. I don't want it dripping or anything, just a good coat to break up that surface tension. Let's go start pulling it through. All right, you can see it's already switched from red to black. We've got everything through. Let's add on that extra red wire. You see we've got a slightly darker red wire that goes to our controller and then the brighter red wire that's going to go to our light. I want to keep that in mind so we don't get them mixed up. Another good way is that the bright red wire from our light isn't stripped on the end where the darker red wire from the controller does have a factory stripped end to it. All right, let's get it pulled through there the rest of the way. Now that we've got everything pulled through we need to get our little bright red wire back here. We'll set that one aside. Here's our actuator that's going to be inside the vehicle. We're going to remove the nuts off the back side and we're actually going to mount this right around our brake pedal. We want to get it as low as we can without it actually interfering. One of the tips they give you is that when you're braking and you're usually doing it with the ball of your foot. We'll figure out where that's going to be. Keep a tab where our foot intersects our pedal there, which is going to be about right there. Then, we'll just go up slightly for that. We'll have it probably just above that bend. The cable side of our actuator is going to face the front of our vehicle. Our plate will come over then we'll put those nuts back on. I want to be sure we have a good solid connection point behind there. It's about an inch lower from the back. It actually looks like we can trim that out right there. About an inch below our actuator we've got a nice metal surface right here behind that pad right there, so that should give us a really nice mounting surface for the bracket that's going to hold our cable. Let's go ahead and tighten the bolts down. Let's make sure that's mounted nice and securely there. What we're going to do is mount the cable hole 14:28. I'm just going to pull back that boot and trim some of this insulation out of the way. We want to be metal to metal surface. We don't want to have anything that will interfere with that. This should give us a nice solid surface right there. It will be about an inch below the rear of the actuator. Mark that location right there. We're going to take our cable, we're going to pass it through, loop it around again and pass it through. Then, we can use the provided self-tapping screw to go right through that flange that's on the top. We'll adjust that out to where we have just about a quarter inch or a half inch worth of play. No more than that. That might cause premature wear on the actuator or the cable. We'll just tighten our set screw in there until it's finger tight. Then, from there we want to go an additional quarter turn. The last connection that we'll make under here in the dash area is going to be our airline tubing into that elbow that's off the end of the actuator. We want to leave a little bit of extra, but we've got plenty here, not too much. What we're going to do is take our tubing cutter, this is part number F9009. It's going to give us a nice flush cut. Then, we'll have that nice and squared at the end. We're going to push that in to that elbow, give it a push and a pull. Make sure it's nice and secure. We can just rotate that up. That will keep that up and out of the way so we won't have to deal with it heading down the road. Since we've got the actuator in position here, the hush cover, that little quiet cover that goes underneath the bottom side, we're not going to be able to put that back on, just our front cover. Before we get our covers on, let's take a piece of the included wire loom and go around our controller wires. You can see that's going to give us a nice clean look. We'll need a little bit of electrical tape, couple short pieces just to go around there. Trim off our excess there. We'll take our upper cover, we want to put our hood release back in place. It clicks in nicely there, nice and easy thing to do. Then, you see the gold tab here and here. Those line up with those rectangular-shaped holes there and then also up here on the top. Make sure we get all five of those to align. You see they'll just click in nice and easy. Now, if you remember way back in the beginning we took out two seven millimeter headed screws. We'll use our socket to tighten those down. Now we'll take the airline that runs out from inside of the vehicle and bring it over and give ourselves just a little bit of extra just in case we need to make any changes. Cut that off nice and flush. That plugs in right here to the top hole on the Stay-n-Play operating unit. You're going to hear that click and you want to be able to pull on it without it moving or coming out. Our air connection there is taken care of. Let's start getting our wires ran around here where we want them. We'll start with the red and the black wire that come from the controller inside of the car. These are going to get connected directly to the Stay-n-Play box. We'll trim both of those off as well as the two that come out from inside the car. We always want to leave ourselves a little bit of slack, so we'll trim them right there. We'll strip the end off of all four. We can take two of the supplied butt connectors, slide those on and crimp them down. Let's go ahead and wrap those up with a little bit of tape. We're going to do this to all connections. That will take care of those two. Next, the wire we have is our blue wire that comes out of the operating unit. This is going to run over to the breakaway switch and it's going to connect into one of those. Now, you remember earlier when we installed our monitor light we didn't have the stop light to connect to, so this is also going to connect to the blue wire here as it makes its way across. We've got an easy way to make that connection. We don't need too much of that wire hanging out. I'm going to bring the blue wire right around here. Let's just trim off a little bit of that excess right there where they'll meet. We'll trim our blue wire. Hang on to the other end of it. We're going to need it. Now, we'll strip the three of these back. What we're going to do is just let that one hang out. We're going to take the red one and the blue one, twist that together really well. We've got one of our larger yellow heat shrink butt connectors. These won't come with the kit, but give you a great seal. I'd recommend picking a pack of them up. That way you'll have them. We'll just run our blue wire in. Then, we're just going to heat shrink these down. You can use a lighter, you can use a heat gun, whatever your preference is. If you use a lighter, I'd use the flame down there where it's blue and clear. Do the same for this one. We can just route our blue wire over towards our breakaway switch. The more hidden we can get it the better so it doesn't look like we've got wires going everywhere. Our brown wire is going to come around in just a minute and I'll follow the exact same path with that. Here are the wires for our breakaway switch. I touched on that just a second ago. We installed this when we had the fascia off the car. It gives us the best opportunity to get it in the correct location that will be workable. Most of the time if you're putting in a braking system the base plate is going to be part of that. Just get it ran up here. It's mounted right down on the front of the car. The wiring here, they are two different colors, but it's a switch, so it doesn't matter what we put where. Let's just connect our blue wire to our black wire here. Add another one of the provided butt connectors. Let's start bringing our brown wire right over along that same path. I'm going to zip tie both of these right down here to keep them from interfering with anything. Now, our brown wire is going to connect two different places. First connection we're going to make is right here on our breakaway switch cable. This one we're treating a lot like the blue wire when we brought it over and we added that red wire on. We're going to use one of the yellow heat shrink butt connectors. We're going to cut it and hang on to the other end, twist those together and then send it in to the other side of that butt connector. That makes the connection from our operating unit around to our breakaway switch, but we also want this to run over to our 12 volt power source. We're going to bring out our inline fuse holder, cut it on about a 60/40. The short side is going to run up to our ring terminal where we'll make our connection. The other side we want to connect right on to our brown wire here. We're going to go to a stud located underneath this panel. We don't need a whole lot of extra wire, maybe about right there will be just fine. We set that aside. We're not going to need that anymore. Add one of the supplied butt connectors to that. We're going to pull the cover off of our box here. We've got a set of locking tabs here and also here. Pinch both of those together then we can just lift straight up on it. We're going to grab a ring terminal. Now, this one is not going to be in the kit. The ones in the kit are just a little bit smaller diameter hole. We take a ten millimeter socket, back that off, put that right down underneath there. Then, run it right back on. All right, we are not going to be putting the fuse in yet. We'll do that in one of the last steps. We are going to go ahead and heat shrink this one down. We'll tuck that down out of the way. Let's bring our cap over and slide that down and on. You can see our box flexes nicely there, allows it to come out and around. All we're going to be left with are the green wire, the yellow wire and the white wire that come out of that controller that we mounted inside of the car. These are going to get mounted to our existing tow wiring that goes from the front of the vehicle where our motor home connects in back and operates our lights. Again, this was installed when we had the fascia off the car, which we recommend doing. Anything that you need to run from the front of the car and get it into the middle somewhere, do it while that front fascia is off. I'm just going to separate out our wires, usually just a pick. Put it between them and pull towards you. All right, that should give us enough room to work with here. The brown one, we're not going to be doing anything with that up here, so this extra length we've got, let's just trim that off there and here. We'll add a butt connector right in between them. Now, I'm going to separate our white wire here. We'll get that one taken care of. It's very, very important with this that we just don't bring the white wire from the motor home and connect it into the white wire that goes into our controller. We also need it to be grounded to our vehicle. We're going to bring our vehicle ground, we've got a ring terminal there, we bring it back and bring it right here to where that white controller wire runs out. Let's splice those. Cut them there, strip the ends just like we've done, just like when we've been merging wires before, we're going to twist those together really well and add on one of the yellow butt connectors. Now, we've got our vehicle ground, the ground that runs into our brake controller, and we've got the ground right here coming in from our motor home which we'll be able to easily connect in right here. We'll get that one shrunk down. Let's take care of the green wire. This is the one that comes from the controller inside. We're going to be adding it right in line with our existing tow wiring. Trim that on each side. The green wire that runs into the controller and the green wire that runs back towards the lights on the rear of our vehicle, we're going to twist those together then connect it into the input from our motor home. Finally, we're going to do the same thing with our yellow wire. We'll just go through and seal up any connections that we might have a little question about, like here to just give it a moisture barrier. Then, we can use the wire loom, some electrical tape and get it all tidied up, clean it up, make it look presentable. The vacuum line on our operating unit needs to run to the vacuum line. It's right here. This goes from the motor on around towards the back of the car to the brake booster. This is a 15/32nd hose. We're going to be matching that up to our 3/8th hose using the provided connectors. We'll just give ourselves plenty of slack here so we can go down and make that connection. It will be about right here. We're going to just trim that off squarely. All right, that will be the length we need to make our connection there. Now we'll be able to use the excess that we've got here to make the piece that will fit right in. For our replacement section of hose here we're going to take one of the 3/8ths to 15/32nd barbed connectors and slide it in just like that. We'll come off that just a little ways here, cut our hose again. Then we're going to be putting our check valve in. The black side of the check valve needs to be towards our engine side. Just push that all the way in. Now, we can bring our 3/8th hose and pop that back on. I went out past our check valve a little bit. Let's do another snip. This is where our barbed T comes in. Get that slid down on there and then our 3/8th hose will go back on. Come off that then just a little bit and then another one of our 3/8ths to 32nd adapters will go in there. This is going to go down in. We're going to connect it in right here. Then, just flex it up and around just like this so it replaces just a short section of the vacuum line that we're going to remove. Now, we've got a little Christmas tree fastener right here that holds that vacuum line down. I'm going to try to use a pair of needle-nose and just squeeze those together, push them down through that bracket just like that. Let's trim our hose off right here. Now, for the little push pin fastener that we had here, we're going to recycle this. Let's trim it off there and on that top side, that larger tab just like that. We can push that out. What we'll be able to do is just take a standard zip tie and pass it through there around our hose and give us a good connection point there to keep it from moving around. We'll slide one of our hose clamps on the end of our hose there, then slide in our barbed connector. We'll bring our hose clamp back up. We can just cinch that down. I'm just going to tighten up this hose clamp loosely for now in case we have to rotate it or make any adjustments. Then, we can do the same for the other side here. Hose clamp on and tighten it down a little bit. Check our positioning. That actually looks really good. Now, we're just going to go through and cinch those hose clamps the rest of the way down. We'll bring in that little fastener that we removed and one of our zip ties. We're going to slide that right through just like that. We'll go around our hose, place it back in the bracket we remove it from and then just cinch down that zip tie a little bit. That will give us a good positive connection point so we won't have to worry about it. Trim off our excess on that. Then, we can bring our vacuum hose from our operating unit and we can pull that on down. Again, if it's too much length, trim a little piece off. Let's plug that right into our T just like that. We can take our 20 amp fuse, slide that down into our fuse holder. Tuck that down until it's out of the way until we need it. To test our system, we're going to pull our breakaway switch here in the front and we hope to see the three red LED lights come on on the mirror. We'll also check that when our switch is pulled we've got constant activation from our operating unit. Now that we've confirmed that our operating unit is functioning, our three lights come on on our windshield and our brake lights come on, let's check the operation of the actuator itself and make sure that the cable is positioned correctly. For our final test of the system, we'll have our car hooked up through the umbilical that's provided with our die-owed 31:45 kit. We're going to go in our coach, turn it on. We're hoping to hit the brakes and see those LED's come to life. With everything working properly, that's going to complete today's installation of the SMI Stay-n-Play duo, a proportional supplemental braking system on our 2015 Chevrolet Equinox, part number SM99251.

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