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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2015 Cadillac SRX

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2015 Cadillac SRX


Today on our 2015 Cadillac SRX we're going to review and install the SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental proportional braking system, part number SM99251. Here's what our supplemental braking system's going to look like once it's installed. We've got the control unit mounted here at the kick panel, it's our on/off switch. Our connection for the monitor light, which will be displayed when the brake pedal is being depressed. Our actuator is attached to the brake pedal, the actuator pulls on the brake to activate the vehicles braking system. There's no need to add any additional braking parts. One of the other really nice features about this braking system is it's proportional, which means it will slow down in proportion to the towed vehicle. Let's go ahead and activate the actuator.

As we see it pulls on the brake pedal, which is going to activate the vehicle brakes. The majority of the remaining portion of our supplemental braking system is installed in the engine compartment, but once it's installed it does not require any maintenance or adjustment. Now let's go ahead and show you how to set up your Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental braking system. We're now ready to go ahead and adjust the control unit, to set it up to our tow vehicle. To start, once we're hooked up, and have all our electrical connections secured, we'll go ahead and turn it on, the SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo system. Then, while our helper is pressing on the brake on the tow vehicle, we're going to rotate the knob and thumb wheel up until the operating unit stops.

We'll go an additional " and lock it down. Now, our G-Force controller operating unit is set to the tow vehicle and we're ready to hit the road. When we're done towing our vehicle, we'll simply disconnect the monitor light, should be out of our way. Once we're ready to tow the vehicle, just install the monitor light attached to the mirror, and then just simply hook it up here to our two-pole connection. Flip our switch, and it's ready to be towed. Now let's go ahead and show you how to install it. To begin our install, we need to find a mounting location for our operating unit. Now, when finding a suitable mounting location for the operating unit, it has to have enough room that we can close the hood and get it into position and secure it safely.

For this application, since it doesn't matter which side is right side up, we're going to turn it over and mount it here, to the top of the engine cover. Go ahead and get it into position, and then I'll mark the attachment points. Built into the operating unit are four attachment points, we'll mark all four. Then we'll go ahead and move the operating unit out of the way, set it aside for right now, and remove the engine cover. To remove the engine cover we've got a fastener here that will have to be taken out, we'll hang onto it, because it will need to be reinstalled. I'll remove the oil fill cap, go ahead and pop the cover up, put our oil cap back on until we're ready to reinstall it.

This will keep any dirt, dust, debris anything from dropping down into the engine. With the holes marked out, we're going go ahead and pre-drill them. For each one of our attachment points, we're going to have a bolt and flat washer going through the attachment point then through the operating unit where I'll install a nylon lock nut. Let's go ahead and put our hardware in place. Note these fasteners are not supplied with the install kit. Now I have the first two on, I'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the other two. Once all our fasteners are in place, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Once the operating unit is attached to the engine cover, we'll go ahead and remove the oil fill cap again, put the cover back in place. Make sure it's seated properly and reinstall the fastener. Next we need to mount the operating unit. The operating unit needs to sit inside the vehicle with the label facing the passenger side. It also needs to be level and the wires that come out, facing the front of the vehicle. For this application the best location to mount it is here on the kick panel. As you can see the kick panel dips in towards the firewall. We're going to create a mounting location that sticks out so that the operating unit can sit here next to our hood release. I'll start by creating a small hole in the kick panel for my hardware. I'll then take my bolt and flat washer and feed it from the backside of the panel out. Now, to hold my bolt in place, I'll go ahead and install a nut and tighten it down. Now I'll put on a second nut and set the depth of how far my box will go onto the bolt. We need just enough room to get it through our attachment point of the control unit. We'll install a third nut to secure it at the attachment point. Once I have my hardware in place I'll tighten it down. Once we have our manufactured attachment point here tightened down, holding our box in place, we'll use the self tapping screw provided with the install kit, to secure the rear attachment point. Now I've got a good solid mount for our operating unit. Next, we'll locate a manufactures grommet so that we can route the wiring through the firewall. Using a drill bit, we'll go ahead and open it up large enough that we'll be able to pass our wiring and air line through the firewall. Now that we've got our hole through the firewall and we're able to route our wiring from inside to outside the vehicle, we're going to go ahead and set up our monitor light, the monitor light will get attached to the front of our rear view mirror so that it can be viewed from the rear view camera of the tow vehicle. Using the two-pole loop wiring harness provided with the install kit, we're going to create a light that's removable when it's not in use. First, you take the two-pole loop, we're going to cut off the pigtail. I'm offsetting my cut a little but to accommodate for two butt connectors. Once I have the cuts made, we'll go ahead and strip back both sides and a butt connector to each. We'll use the blue butt connectors, provided with the install kit. Now that we've got the butt connectors attached here, to the half of our two-pole connector, we're going to take it and attach it to the ends of our monitor light. We'll go ahead and match red to red and brown to black. Now that our connection's made, because they're pretty thin LED wires, I like to go ahead and tape them up, give them a little support and strength. We're also going to use the wire loom, right with the install kit, to help bundle up our wire and add a little additional protection. To install the wire loom, we'll just take this split, or opening in it, slide our wires in, work our way all the way up to the light. Once I have the wire loom on, I'm going to take a couple pieces of tape, just wrap it around the ends to help hold it in place. Next we'll go ahead and take the hook and loop fasteners attaching one side to the back of our light, and the other side to the mirror. Remove the two way adhesive and just attach directly to the light. Firmly press that in place, get a good cohesive connection and then we'll take the other side and attach it to the front side of the rear view mirror. Our light's going to sit here on the mirror so that it shines through the windshield and is visible from the rear view camera. Just like we attached to the light, we'll go ahead and remove the two way adhesive and attach it to the mirror. When installing your hook and loop fastener, make sure you stay away from any sensors that might be part of the rear view mirror. Now with the hook and loop fastener attached to the mirror, let's go ahead and install the light. Now with the pigtail set up for our monitor light, we'll go ahead and set that aside. We'll take the other end of our two-pole loop, set it's mounting location in our wire routing. The brown wire is going to get quick splice connected to the black wire coming from the control unit. The red wire would normally be connected to the cold side wire of the brake switch, however, for this application, the brake switch does not have power in the tow mode so it'll need to get routed into the engine compartment and ultimately hook to the breakaway switch wiring harness. Now we'll go ahead and take about 6" of the leftover wire-loom and put it on out two-pole loop, so it'll bundle up our wires, give us a nice clean install look for the wiring that'll be exposed. Once it's in place, again, we'll go ahead and tape it up, just to help hold the wire loom in place. Before I put the two-pole wiring harness in place, knowing we've got it routed all the way in the engine compartment, we're going to go ahead and add to it. I'm just going to take an extra piece of wire and use a blue butt connector and then tape it up. Now we'll go ahead and mount our two-pole connector, slide it into place here, and use one of the zip-ties provided with our install kit, to secure it. We can just zip tie it off to the manufactures wiring. This will be where we connect the monitor light. The brown wire that comes from the two-pole gets connected to the black wire coming out of the back of our control unit. To connect these two, we'll use a quick splice connector. I'll go ahead and take the connector, put it onto the black wire, cut the brown wire to length, slide it into the quick splice connector and crimp it down. We can go ahead and close the clasp on the quick splice connector. The remaining portion of our wiring needs to get routed into the engine compartment. To help bundle up the wiring, as we route it behind the carpeting underneath the dash and over to our pre-drilled hole in the firewall, I'm going to add the " wire loom provided with the install kit. Once I have my wire loom in place, I'm going to put some electrical tape on it, to help hold it in position. With my wire loom in place, we're just going to simply route it behind the carpeting and we can even secure here to the manufactures wiring as it runs over to our pre-drilled hole underneath the dash behind the center console. Then I'll go ahead, take my wiring, and route through the pre-drilled hole. Once we have our wiring pulled through the the firewall, you can see the wire loom goes right up to our pre-drilled hole. Next, we're going to mount the air cylinder. The air cylinder pulls on the brake pedal to actuate the brakes. The clamp bracket will allow us to attach it directly to the brake pedal arm. Our anchor point will get mounted to the firewall and needs to be attached directly to the sheet metal of the firewall. Go ahead and but away the necessary portion of the carpet and insulation until we get down to the sheet metal. Once I have the necessary carpet trimmed out then do the insulation behind it. Once we have the insulation moved, and we can get directly to the firewall, we need to mount the anchor point. The anchor point is also the adjustment for the cable, here by the setscrew. Be careful not to over tighten the setscrew and fray the cable. Next we're going to go ahead and mount the anchor point to the firewall. Keep in mind you want the cable coming out of the air cylinder in a straight line back to the firewall. To attach the anchor point to the firewall, we'll use a self tapping screw, provided with the install kit. Note when attaching your anchor point to the sheet metal, locating an area where the sheet metal doubles or tripled up for a good solid attachment point is preferred. Once our anchor point is firmly attached, we can then take the air actuator and secure it to the brake pedal arm. Just using the plate and nuts provided we'll secure the air cylinder to the parking brake arm. As we tighten down our fasteners, we'll make sure we tighten them down evenly. Next we'll take the air line, provided with our install kit, route it through the firewall, and into the engine compartment. We'll re-use the same hole that we pre-drilled in the firewall and ran our wiring through earlier. Next, using our tubing cutter, we're going to go ahead and cut the end of our line to make sure we've got a clean, square cut on our air line before we put it into the air-fitting. The end of our air cylinder is our air-fitting. It's a push-style fitting, so we'll take the air line, line it up, firmly press it into place and then pull back to lock it in position. To help protect our wiring and air line, as it routes up the firewall, we're going to use the wire loom provided with the install kit. I'll go ahead and put it over the bundle of wires now, which will help secure them and protect them as they route up the firewall. Quick inaudible 00:17:44 tip, if you tape the wires to the air line, it will help with routing through the wire loom. With our wire loom in place, we'll go ahead and route the air line and wiring up the firewall. We'll move to the top of the engine compartment, take our air line and wiring, pull it up into place. Now that we've got everything routed into the engine compartment, we can start making the connections here. We have two wires that are zip-tied here to the top of the battery. These are the two for the breakaway switch that we're previously installed with our Roadmaster base plate kit, part number 523162-1. I'm going to go ahead and cut them free and route them to the other side of the battery. We'll connect these two together, take the orange wire with the black stripe, connect it to the brown wire coming from the operating unit. And then the remaining portion of the brown wire will get routed to our positive battery posts. Keep in mind that anything that's secured to the top of the engine, will need to have some wiggle room as the engine will move when it's running. To make this three-way connection, we'll use the three-way butt connector provided with our install kit. Let's so ahead and strip back our wires and connect them. We'll take the brown wire from the operating unit, cut off the excess length, strip it back, and add it to the second leg of our three-way connector. I can take the leftover wire, what we cut off, strip it back, and add it to the third leg of the three-way connector. Next we'll go ahead and remove the top cover so we can gain access to the positive battery posts. As we lift off the cover, we can see here the positive battery post terminals. We'll go ahead and prepare and install our inline fuse holder. The inline fuse holder comes as a one wire loop, that we'll simply just cut in half. We'll strip back both sides, adding a ring terminal to one, and a butt connector to the other. Now that's away the fuse holder prepped, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from our power wire and secure it with the butt connector. We'll go ahead and remove the nut off one of the positive battery posts, install the ring terminal, and then re-secure the nut. Then we can put the battery cover back in place. Next we'll take the blue wire from the breakaway switch, and the blue wire from the operating unit, cut off the excess length, strip it back. Now that we have our length cut and our wires stripped back, on cases where you have an active brake switch, you would simply connect these two blue wires together, however, since in the tow mode we do not have an active brake switch, we need to take the red wire that we attached to our two-pole connection for the monitor light and make a three-way connection with the two blue wires. Go ahead and remove the excess from the red wire and strip it back. Using the three-way connector provided with our install kit, we'll go ahead and secure these wires together. Up to this point we've gone ahead and completed our circuit for our emergency breakaway switch, added power for the operating unit and completed the circuit for the monitor light. Next, we need to connect to the previously installed towed vehicle wiring. Green, yellow, and white. Matching color for color that come from our control unit. To make these connections we're going to use the quick splice connectors provided with our install kit. To start, let's go ahead and prep the tow vehicle wiring. Using a utility knife, I'm going to go ahead and cut the sheathing so I can pull the wires apart. Keep in mind while you make these cuts not to cut into the insulation that protects the wire. Starting with the green wire that comes from the control unit and bring it down, cut off the excess, I'll take the quick splice connector, slide it over the green wire and take the control unit wire, slide it into the connector and crimp it down. Once we crimp it down we can close the clasp and it will secure the two wires together. Now we'll go ahead and repeat the same procedure for our yellow wire connection. Next we'll take the white wire from the control unit, we're going to connect with the white wire from the towed wiring. Note, we'll also be adding another white wire and running it to ground here in the engine compartment. Lets go ahead and cut to length, strip it back. Our towed wiring, we're also going to cut it in half, strip it back. On each side of the wiring harness will be two wires connected with a butt connector, so that all four wires will be secured. We've got one half of our towed wiring and our white wire coming from the control unit, twist it together, we'll add a larger butt connector and crimp it down. I'm going to repeat the same basic process here on the other side, bringing in my extra length of white wire from our install kit. Twist the two together, slide them into the butt connector, crimp it down again. With all the white wired ground connections made here at our butt connector, we'll go ahead and take the newly installed wire for our ground follow it around the battery and over to the drivers side inner fender. Once we get it over to the inner fender, cut off the excess length, strip it back, and add a ring terminal. Using a self tapping screw we'll go ahead and take the ring terminal and ground it to the sheet metal. Note when grounding it, I recommend to find a location where the sheet metal doubles up for a good secured ground. Now that'll complete the circuit for the towed vehicle wiring. We have four wire remaining, two coming from the control unit and two from our operating unit. The red and black, and they'll get connected together, color for color. Go ahead and figure out our wire length, and then cut it as necessary. We'll go ahead and take the vacuum line we routed from the actuator inside here to the engine compartment over to the operating unit. Figure out our length and then use our tubing cutter to cut off the excess. Once we have it trimmed to length we'll go ahead and install it into the operating unit by lining it up with the fitting, pressing it in firmly and pulling back to lock it in position. We need to take the vacuum hose from the operating unit, route it, and connect in with the manufactures vacuum line. This will be the line that comes from the brake booster and goes to the engine. For this application, because the manufacture already has a check valve in line we will not need to install the one supplied with the install kit. This will not be necessary for this application. To connect to the manufactures vacuum hose, we'll go ahead and cut it in half. Once we have the hose cut, we'll go ahead and take the T and install it. On the other side will be the manufactures hose reconnecting the manufactures line. Now we'll take the hose from the operating unit, route it to the T, and cut off any excess. Then we can take our vacuum hose and install it onto the T. With everything routed and installed here in the engine compartment we're going to go ahead and wrap up our wires with some electrical tape, this will help bundle them up, keep them safe, clean up the install look as they route here through the engine compartment. Now with everything secure, we'll go ahead and install our 20 amp fuse into the fuse holder. With our fuse installed we're now ready to hook up to our towed vehicle. We'll use the towed vehicle braking system to do the initial setup on our control unit. Now with everything installed, hooked up and set, we're ready to hit the road. That'll do it for the review and install of the SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental braking system, part number SM99251 on our 2015 Cadillac SRX.


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