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Roadmaster 4-Diode Universal Wiring Kit Installation - 2017 Smart fortwo

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How to Install the Roadmaster 4-Diode Universal Wiring Kit on a 2017 Smart fortwo

Hi there, smart car owners. Today in your 2017 smart for two we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmasters diode wiring kit. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home. You'll need your base plate, which is your connection point for your tow bar that is installed on your vehicle. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between your vehicle and your motor home. You'll also need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar.

You'll need your diode wiring, which takes all of the lighting signals from your motor home, transfers it to the lights at the back of your vehicle so that way everybody behind you knows your intentions when going down the road. If you don't want to go with that wiring. You could also go with magnetic lights and wiring, which operates similarly it just doesn't use the existing lights on your vehicle.You'll also need your supplemental braking system. This will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit the brakes in your motor home using the existing brakes on the car to help it come to a safe stop. And in addition to your diodes, you'll also receive your 6-pole connector that will mount at the front, which is the most common connection for your flat tow setup on your vehicle.

And you'll also receive your straight cable that will hook up on your vehicle and then also to the 7-pole at the back of your motor home. Your diode wiring is going to take all the lighting signals from your motor home and transfer them back to the lights at the back of your vehicle. This allows us to use our factory lights to project all of our signals to the people behind us when going down the road so they know our intentions.This includes your left turn signal, right turn signal tail lamps, and brake lamps, which will keep you DOT compliant in all States. It does this by putting diodes just behind the connector for each of your tail light assemblies for both your stop turn as well as your tail lamp circuits. And these diodes allow current to flow in only a single direction.

They act kind of as a one way check valve. This lets the current from our motor home, those lighting signals, travel to the light, but it can only go this direction to the light and it cannot go back and back feed into any of the wiring on our vehicle keeping our vehicles wiring and electronic components safe from any of the signals from the motor home. This is great because we have our lights ready to use every time we want to flat tow. We don't need to set any magnetic lights up. We just hook it in and we're ready to go.

You can't really get an easier. The installation's fairly straight forward. Let's go ahead and go over that now and I'll show you how to get it set up.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle with our lift gate open. This will give us access to the screws that hold our taillight in. We're going to remove both the passenger and driver's side. The two screws we're removed with a T20 torque socket. Once we've got both of the screws removed, we can take the assembly completely out by pulling out like this. And then if we take a trim panel tool and kind of run it down the side, you'll see some tabs. You just want to get behind there and just pry out where the tab is located behind it. Here you can see our two tabs that we have to pop out, so you want to get your trim panel tool located close to this on the side when you're pushing out so that way the pressure is even, it's not going to break off the little tab. The connector located on the back of the headlight disconnects by lifting up on the release tab there. It's probably easier to use a screwdriver or a pick like I am here to do so.And then you can just pull that off. We'll then set our taillight assembly aside and we're going to remove the other side in the exact same way. We've got both of our taillight assemblies removed now and we're using some airline tube which you can use anything really, a metal coat hanger works fairly well, and we're going to feed it down so we can grab it down below. I'm just going to push it down in there until it comes out on the bottom. We're going to pull it out and we're going to tape our wiring to it that comes in our kit. Now you do have a 4-pole connector on there. I just cut that 4-pole connector off cause we don't need it here at the back of the vehicle. We taped it to it and this easily allows us to get our wiring from down below so we can route it to the front. And also here to our taillight assemblies where we're going to make our connection to our diodes.Now that we've got our wiring set up, we can start making our connections here to our factory wiring. So I've gone ahead and strip back the electrical tape that was on the wiring from the factory to expose our wires. We're going to be using the blue and the pink wire here located on the side. So the pink is the outer most wire color we're going to use and blue's the inner. It's a little complicated here because they have all the same wire colors repeated. You see on the opposite side it's blue on the driver's side for the outer pin, we do not want that. We want to make sure pink is our outer pin and we're going to use the blue one next to it. This is our brake light wire and this is our taillight wire.We're going to cut these about in half. Then we're going to strip back each end of this factory wiring. After you've got each wire stripped back, these wires will all get a blue spade terminal attached to them, so these are just on your diodes. They come just like this, so they just pull off. You don't have to pull them off. You can leave them on there, but I find it a lot easier to make the connections by just pulling them off. Give the wire a little twist to make it easier to get all the strands inside and then we're just going to crimp it down. We'll repeat that for our three remaining wires here. Now that we've got all of our blue spade terminals attached to our factory wiring, we can prepare our new harness that we routed up.From the new harness what we'll be using over here on our driver's side is the yellow, the brown and the white wire. Now our white wire is our ground wire, but we're going to be using a small section of the white wire as a jumper wire to bring the brown wire, which is our taillight wires, signals over to the passenger side. Our green wire's only for the passenger side, so we're just going to pull that back because we're not going to be using it on this side. We're going to be routing it over so we can just peel that until it's all the way there. Each one of these wires now that we've stripped back that we are going to use on this side, we're going to strip them back. Now that we've got each one stripped back, we're going to take the brown and the white wire, since we're using the white as a small jumper to carry that brown signal over to the other side. We're just going to twist them together. I'm just going to trim off a little bit of the excess that I don't need there.And then with these two, since there's two wires together, we're going to be using the yellow spade terminal as it accommodates larger wires. So we'll crimp it on. And then the yellow wire that we stripped back that we routed up is just going to get another one of the blue spade terminals. Now that we've got all of our spade terminals attached on the side, we can go ahead and start hooking everything up. So we'll take our diodes; the out label on our diode is always going to be the side that goes towards the light, so it's going to be our connector side. So we're just going to attach both of our diodes to the out first so that way we can't accidentally plug them in backwards. Then we just want to match up our wire color now, so blue to blue and then pink to pink. And now we just need to attach our new wires.So the pink is our stop turn circuit. So that is going to get our yellow connector because this is the driver's side or left stop and turn. And then the blue wire over here, this one is going to get the brown and white that we attached as this is our taillight circuit. Now what I like to do here is I like to take the backing off of the adhesive. There's very limited room here in your taillight assembly, so you could stick it in here, but there's a high chance that the location you're going to stick it is going to interfere with your light, so I found it easier to just stick the two diodes together. And this way you have the flexibility to move it around to get your taillight assembly re-installed and if they're together, that means they're not clinking around knocking against each other.We're now going to take this wire here, we're going to route it back down and over to our passenger side. We're going to use that fish wire trick that we use before to get it pulled up. We're now underneath and we have our excess wire here. This is the wire that we ran up to our taillight assembly. The rest of it I went ahead and tucked up towards the front because we're going to be routing it up there. We need the wire that's on the driver's side taillight here to go over here to our passenger side and then route up to that tail light assembly, so we can make our connections here. Here you can see our fish wire that we routed over, so since we're using this white wire as a jump, but it's also our ground, we're going to need to make a cut in it at a point that's going to give us enough length to go over to this side and then also up to the taillight. So we're going to come back to about here. This will ensure we have enough wire.We're going to then cut just the white wire only just like that. And then once you've cut the white wire you want to go in between the brown and the white and this will allow us to start peeling them back to separate it. Because we need again, this wire to go all the way over there. We're going to peel this back. Here. We also need our green wire, so now we've got our green wire and I peeled it way back to give us plenty amount of excess to get over. We're going to route both of these wires now over to this side. Now your muffler's right here, so you really want to route it up above the muffler. It's pretty hard to see, but you want to try to get away from this hot component as best as possible.And so I've got the wires routed over. I still need to go down and clean things up down there so they're not resting on the engine or anything hot. Just getting them pulled up to help manage my wires a little bit better. We're going to go ahead and make the connections over here, we use that fish wire trick. And I also got the diodes already connected on this side to the wires that we're going to use. So you can see here it's just like on the other side. We want the pink wire that is on the outside for our brake light circuit and the blue wire that's right next to it. So now that we've got our new wires fed over, we're going to take the last two spade terminals we have, we're going to strip these wires back and then we're going to crimp on these spade terminals.Now that we've crimped them on our white wire that we run over is our jumper for the taillight circuit. It's going to go next to the blue wire. Then our green wire is our passenger side or right side stop and turn circuit, so that's going to go with our pink wires. Now that we've got these on here, we can zip tie our wiring to keep everything together and then we can go back down below and clean everything up on how we routed it across. We'll then be routing the wiring up to the front of the vehicle so we can have our connection point up there for where our motor home we'll plug in. We're back again underneath the vehicle. We cleaned up our wiring. You are going to have quite a bit of excess due to how small the smart car is. So some of the excess we have when routing it across, We zip tied it up in a bundle here and attached to the hanger.You can see we avoided our exhaust by going up and staying on the bottom side of our bumper and we just zip tied it across the bottom of that bumper all the way over to our driver's side where our wiring came down. Also, over here on the driver's side, the wiring that routed across also comes back and when it comes back from your passenger side, we're going to go towards the front of the vehicle now, so we went up over the brace here. We zip tied it to the frame here to keep it away from our engine. Kept going along the frame, staying behind all the hoses that you have here, because these hoses will ensure that our wiring stays away from the moving parts, our engine and stuff here.Once we get to the front side of our hoses here, we come down, we zip tie it to our park brake cable. Then from here we're going to be above this panel all the way to the front of the vehicle. There are a couple of bolts that you might want to take out. Use a 10 millimeter socket to do so. This just gives you a chance to just pop it down and push your wire up. You can put it right back in, move to the next bolt, and so on and so forth until you get it routed all the way up to the front of the vehicle here.Here at the front of the vehicle, you have your base plate and this is the mounting location that's included with your base plate if you have a Roadmaster base plate. We're going to be using this mounting location and we're also going to be using a 6-pole connector instead of the 4-pole connector that comes with our diodes. Now the 4-pole connector will work. You just need to make sure you have a 4-pole on the back of your motor home. A 4-pole connector will only accommodate brake turn and tail light wiring. So if you have anything else on your flat tow setup that you want, like a charge line kit or a monitor light or anything like that, you will need to upgrade to a larger connector to be able to add those components. Our customer is going to be having a charge line kit installed, so we are going to be cutting off the 4-pole end here and then mounting up a 6-pole connector.So I'm going to go ahead and get our 6-pole prepared and then we'll show you how to make that connection as a 6-pole is the most common connector for the front of your vehicle for flat tow setups due to the extra pins for those additional accessories. Now, before we make that connection to the 6-pole connector here that we're going to be adding, I do want to take some of this excess wiring here at the front, bring it up, I'm going to route it over here to the driver's side and I'm just going to zip tie it here. This will give me an easy access point to this wiring in the future, because depending on your braking system, you may need to tap into these wires and it's just a lot more difficult to run all those wires when you need to tap in down there when you can have an easy access point here at the top. So we're just going to zip tie this up here and this way we can access those later when we're adding those components.So since we're not going to be using the 4-pole on ours, we're going to take the cable and cut off the excess length. I do like to leave some excess, maybe about to here. That way when we've got our bumper and everything re-installed if we ever need to make any repairs in the future, we can disconnect it and we can pull that connector out without having to disconnect it to get that access. So we're just going to snip this off. Once you've got it cut, we need to separate each of the wires. So easy way to do that is to just cut between them. And once you make a small slit in between each one, you can just peel them back. They just peel right apart, kind of like string cheese. Now that we've got each one separated, we need to strip each one of these back.We'll now take our rubber boot, this comes on the back of your 6-pole connector, slide it over your wiring and now we can start making our connections to the back of our 6-pole connector. I like to twist each one to make sure that all the strands properly go into our connector and we don't have any loose strands, because if one loose strand touches another prong it could cause some issues with your setup. So we got them all twisted together. We'll now take our 6-pole connector and we're going to be using four of the pins here on the back, so our GD here is ground, so we'll slide that in there and then we'll screw that down. LT is left turn, that's going to be our yellow wire. So we're going to bring that over and poke it in the one labeled LT. Next to that is TT, which is right turn, which is our green wire. And then lastly we have our brown wire, which is our taillight circuit and that is going to go into the one labeled TM.Once you've got them all connected, it's a good practice to use dielectric grease on the back of your connector here to seal out any moisture. And then I like to use electrical tape over the boot so you put the dielectric grease on first, slide the boot on, and then I used to use electrical tape around the front and back to seal it all up. Now since we're going to be adding additional components to our 6-pole for our flat tow setup on our smart car here, those additional accessories are going to attach later, so I'm going to hold off on putting that dielectric grease in there until I've done that.Now at this point you can attach your 6-pole connector to your base plate. The hardware does come included with your base plate. I'm going to go ahead and leave it loose because we are going to need to have it loose when we put our inaudible 00:17:41 back on and everything, so it's okay to just let it hang down. Our diode wiring is nearly complete. The only thing that we haven't done yet is we haven't actually our ground wire to the vehicle. This can really be done at any point as long as the wire that's connected to our 6-pole is grounded. So we're just going to follow this back and we had brought that wiring up here to give us an easy access point. So while it's up here giving us an easy access point, this is a great spot for us to just go ahead and run a self tapping screw into it to get our ground as well.So we're going to go ahead and hook up that ground now. So this is the loop that we brought up. I'm going to go ahead and cut it in half and then we need to ensure that we have the side of the wire that is going to the 6-pole at the front, because that's really the main goal here is that that wire that's hooked to our 6-pole is connected to ground. So we just separate those back, peel them back, and then we're just going to just verify here which one is which that we've got going there. So this is our 6-pole right here. So here's our 6-pole wiring. That's going to go there, so it is this one right here. It's connected to our connector at the front.So we're going to strip it back, slide your ring terminal on, crimp it down, and then we'll use the included self tapping screw to just run that right into the metal where we've got it zip tied here and this will give us our ground. At this point you can reinstall your taillight assemblies and then plug your connector here at the front into your motor home or to a tester and make sure everything's working properly. You'll see here on the backside of your taillights when you're putting it back in that you've got kind of a little pocket here, and this is a great place to stash your diodes to ensure you've got room.Now that we're all hooked up, you want to make sure you have your left turn signal. Your right turn signal. Your brake lamps, as well as your tail lamps. With everything working properly, we're now ready to put our vehicle in tow mode and hit the road. And that completes our installation of Roadmasters diode wiring kit on your 2017 smart for two.

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