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Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2012 Hyundai Accent

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2012 Hyundai Accent


Today on this 2012 Hyundai Accent, we're going to show you part number RM-155. This is a Roadmaster Taillight Wiring Kit with bulbs. Now our bulb and socket kit, typically installs in the taillights. In our car here, they're installed at the lower part of the taillight. This is our driver's side, it's going to be the same thing over on our passenger's side. Now you get a length of wire that runs from the back of the car all the way up towards the front as well.

Also included is a simple 4-Pole flat jumper cable that goes up from the car and up to your 4-Pole on your RV. The first thing you need to do is go ahead and open the back hatch and we need to remove the taillights. Open up the back hatch and we'll start on our driver's side here and there will be four fasteners we have to remove, one, two and this bumper, three and four. You need a large screwdriver for this bumper to remove it, Phillips head screwdriver and then 10mm socket for the remaining fasteners. You could also use a screwdriver. Pull up and back a little bit, it actually comes apart pretty easy.

Now to get to our quick disconnect, you need to go ahead and pull the grommet out of the wall here and we'll go ahead and pull it out and here's our disconnect. We'll push down on the tab in the center and pull it apart. Set this to the side for now and do the other taillight on the passenger's side. With our taillights free, we need to modify them so we can install our new bulbs. We're going to use this location right here. We can flip the light over, we're looking at the driver's side, so our bulb should come out somewhere in this direction right here.

You have plenty of clearance from the other light bulb and the lens itself. All right so we're going to go ahead and drill out a 1/4 inch pilot hole first and then follow it up with a 1 inch hole saw. Now let's go back at it with our 1 inch hole saw. Let's do a quick test for bulb and socket and you can see it barely makes it through. That's okay. The next thing we need to do is go ahead and take these tabs and pry them out a little bit so it gets a grip on the plastic here.

We'll go ahead and cover up the edges with some silicone sealant. These little tabs right here, we're just going to take a screwdriver and just pull them up just a little bit, all the way around. Let's go ahead and put it into place, make sure the tabs that we pulled up line up. They have some resistance that holds them in place so you may have to take some and pull some out a little bit more. You should hear a nice satisfy click in there. Let's go ahead and put our sealant around it and try and cover up all the holes. I think it might be a good idea to get some disposable gloves and just work it in there. We'll let that sit for a moment and then we'll go ahead and work on our other side. Now while our sealant is drying, we'll go ahead and work with our main wire harness. We'll go ahead and cut it free, we've got a nice long loop here to work with. We also have two 4-Pole ends, now we only need one of these so we're just going to cut off one. We're going to take this 4-Pole end and drop it down between the bumper cover and the body work, all the way down to the ground. Now we'll run the vast majority through but we need to keep a length out the back here to make sure it goes out to the other side. We'll go ahead and work that over. What we're going to do is loosen up our fasteners here and here, both sides underneath the taillights. We'll spring back our bumper cover a little bit and just work our wire behind it. Just light pressure on it with a Phillips head screwdriver and we'll pull out the center and we'll do this screw here. Now I'm going to pull out my door seal a little bit, going across, just get it out of our way for now and it gives us a little extra working room to put our wire in there. Just use a screwdriver to help pop it loose a little bit and work it in there. Make sure we have enough wire left over so we can take off the taillight for service at some point in the future if I need a new bulb or two. We'll leave this alone for now and we'll go ahead and put our fasteners back in. All right, now on our driver's side again, we're going to need to leave a loop in here to give us some extra working room. We're going to create a small loop, probably put a zip tie at the bottom here just to help keep it together. Now the kit doesn't come with too many zip ties so it may be a good idea to go ahead and get an extra supply of zip ties when you do the wiring. At this point, we'll go ahead and run our 4-Pole wire up to the front of the vehicle. When we do that, we'll stay away from anything moving like suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. Once we get up to the engine compartment, we want to go up and into the engine compartment near the hood and then back down to our base plate and our connection point up front. The reason why we're going to have easy access underneath the hood is to give us access to the wires so we can go ahead and install a supplementary braking system eventually. Now the loom clamp we're using is A0500. We're just using an ordinary self-tapping screw to run through our clamp and into the frame of the vehicle. All right now everybody's going to run their wires a little bit different, this is how we did it. Starting from here on the very top edge, we used a little bit of loom material that came with the kit, attached it to the wire, just around the sharp corners here. Then we used some loom clamps that don't come with the kit, ran it above the suspension and these lines, followed the parking brake cable all the way around. Then followed these lines going up towards the front of the vehicle, kind of tucked in behind a plastic guard here, zip tied it at both ends and then just followed the lines on up. We went back into another plastic guard, worked our way up and here we are by the front suspension. We also ran a piece of old air line tubing to help pull wire up from the top to the bottom. We'll go ahead and use some electric tape attached to our 4-Pole wire harness and we'll pull it up to the top. Now this pull wire can be any other piece of wire that can hold its shape as you run it down through here as well. Go ahead and tuck it up in there and get it started, we'll pull it out from the top. We've already routed our pull wire, we went behind the battery and just basically stayed alongside this side of the firewall here and just ran it down between the brake lines to help keep it away from any steering components. Now we'll go ahead and pull up our wire, make sure to take up all the slack. I think what we'll do is we'll route it underneath our cables here and around towards the front and down towards the base plate. There's a small opening that goes this direction, we'll go ahead and run our pull wire through there and out the bottom. We'll go ahead and use some of our loom material that come with kit, we'll go ahead and cover up the wires that we can see and make some final adjustments in how you route the wire. What I like to do is go ahead and zip tie it in a couple of places onto the grille and when we're not using this, this is simply tucked inside. Now in this case, our base plate has a couple mounts for additional brackets for different type of connectors. However, the kit we're working with today doesn't have any brackets to mount it up so we're just going to leave it as standard. You can always upgrade this to a socket type of connector or bracket if you'd like. We'll snug them down, we'll cut off our excess. When it's not being used, it can sit like that, protected inside the grille. When we need to use it, you simply just pull it out. Let's go ahead and take another moment to zip tie our wires and then we'll take our excess bundle right here and let's fold it over itself and zip tie it. Now that will just tuck in there just fine just like it is. We have our excess where we need it for future braking system. All right now our silicone should be dry on our lights, so let's go ahead and make our connections there and then reinstall the lights. Let's go ahead and take a moment and reinstall our door seal. Then let's go ahead and start making our connections on the passenger's side, we'll start with the easy side first. Each side is only going to require three wires. In this case, the ground, running light circuit and a right turn signal. Now the yellow wire is for our left turn signal, it won't even be needed so we can go ahead and just cut this off short. We don't have to worry about it. Now we'll go ahead and prepare our wires, we'll go ahead and strip them back and add the butt connectors that come with the kit, twist the wires and add our butt connector. Let's go ahead and prepare our wires, these are wires coming from our bulb and socket, strip them back and twist the wires. We'll hopefully have an extra set of hands to hold up the light when we do this. We'll go over our ground wire first which will be white and that will go to the black wire on the bulb and socket. Our running light circuit's going to be brown so that's going to be brown to brown. Our turn signal circuit will be red to our right turn signal. Now our right turn signal is also the same signal for our brake signal. If we have a turn signal, we now we have a complete circuit for our stop light as well. We'll go ahead and put some tape around it to help protect our connections and we can go ahead and put our light back into place. Let's go ahead and put our electrical connection back together, route it to the inside and put our grommet back in. Then we can go ahead and put our light back into place. Let's go ahead and reinstall all of our fasteners. We're done with our passenger's side, let's go make our connections over on our driver's side now. All right, let's get our wires ready, what you need to do is split all four wires apart. All right, now to eliminate confusion. Once again, we'll only need three wires on this side, our green wire for right turn is already being used so we just tuck that out of the way. Out of sight, out of mind. All right, we'll continue on getting our wires ready, we'll go ahead and add a butt connector to our wire. Starting with the ground wire, let's strip back our wires. Let's go ahead and twist these guys together, that way the ground from our RV will be carried through our wire and through our butt connector. This side will go to our taillight on the driver's side, our ground will go up and through and over to the other side. Same thing with our brown wire. The running light circuit will go through the butt connector and out to the other side. We'll go ahead and work with our yellow wire for our turn signal. We only need on one half of it so make sure you get the half that goes towards the 4-Pole in the front and then we'll cut off our other one short and we'll use another butt connector on there. Now we'll go ahead and make our connections before, black to ground, in this case the ground wires are white, brown to brown for our running light circuit, turn signal circuit will be red to our yellow on our driver's side. Let's go ahead and put our taillight back into place. All right, now we need to make one more connection up front underneath the hood. Supplementary braking systems do need a ground from our wire harness to the body work so we'll go ahead and add that in here since we've got some extra wire, it'll be easier to get to and work with. We'll split our wire in half and we'll cut the wire in half and add a ring terminal and just attach it to the body work. Once again using a self-tapping screw that doesn't come with the kit, we'll go ahead and attach that to the body work. Let's go ahead and apply power to it and try it out. First our running light circuit. Now our running right turn signal and our left turn. Remember with our turn signal is going to the same thing as our brake signal so we'll be good to go. That will finish it for the install of part number RM-155, the Roadmaster Taillight Wiring Kit with bulbs on our 2012 Hyundai Accent. .

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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