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Roadmaster Tow Bar Installation - 2012 GMC Terrain

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar on a 2012 GMC Terrain


Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 GMC Terrain we're gonna be taking a look at the Roadmaster Sterling all terrain non binding tow bar, part number RM-576. Here's what our Roadmaster Sterling all terrain tow bar looks like and this is gonna serve as the connection point between our motor home and our Terrain whenever we're flat towing it.Our tow bar is gonna attach directly to the base plate and it's gonna evenly pull our terrain so we're not putting added stress on the suspension or any of the other components on our Terrain or our motor home. The nice thing about this one is the fact that it is non binding, if you've ever flat towed a vehicle before hooking it up may not be a problem but whenever you come to unhook if we're on uneven terrain or at a weird angle it becomes very difficult to get the tow bar unhooked from the vehicle just because it gets in a bind. That's what these levers here are gonna do is it's gonna take that tension out and make it a lot easier to pull the pins out and get disconnected.Our tow bar is aluminum which means a few different things. It's gonna be a lot easier to get it in place and we're not gonna have to struggle picking it up, moving it over to our motor home and get everything hooked up but it's also gonna have the strength needed to safely tow our Terrain. It's also gonna be completely rust proof since it is aluminum.

Our safety cables as well as sour electrical cord is included in the kit and they've designed it with these channels so that everything will be tucked up away giving it a nice clean appearance but also keeping them from dragging the ground.Our tow bar does come with a quick disconnect bar and all the components in order to get it installed so it is gonna work with a crossbar style baseplate but it's also gonna work with a direct connect style baseplate from Roadmaster. Now our tow bar is gonna have a telescoping arm that when we start to tow it's gonna extend out and lock into a rigid position and the extra long arms are gonna make hooking up a lot easier because the farther we are away from our motor home the less likely we have to be directly in line to get hooked up. Whenever we make a turn the long arms are gonna help track our car behind our motor home making it a lot more safe for us to drive and a lot more comfortable going around those turns.Whenever we're not towing we can disconnect the arms so we can fold it up and then right back here we're gonna have this latch which is gonna hold it in position and then we can store our tow bar by folding it to the either left or right position and it will stay right here at the back of our motor home that way we don't have to take it out of the hitch every time we unhook. Now our tow bar is gonna fit directly into our motor home's hitch, just want to make sure that you have a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening.Bob G wrote in saying that, the tow bar is excellent quality and simple to install. Connecting and disconnecting are a breeze.

He had the old style tracker tow bar, but had to upgrade for a heavier vehicle. Even a year later he commented back saying it was an excellent product and super heavy duty. If you're looking for a tow bar to flat tow your vehicle our Sterling all terrain is a great option so let's go ahead and show you how to get it hooked up.Now keep in mind this is only one component of our flat tow set up. For our baseplate we used the Roadmaster EZ baseplate kit with removable arms, for wiring we used the Roadmaster Universal high powered diode wiring kit, for a tow bar we used the Roadmaster Sterling all terrain tow bar, and for our breaking system we used the Roadmaster Invisi Brake supplemental braking system. Now specifically to the Terrain you're also gonna need a stop light switch, we used the Roadmaster stop light switch kit.

You're also gonna need a fuse bypass switch, we used the Roadmaster fuse master fuse bypass switch for towed vehicle.To get our tow bar set up it is gonna use a quick disconnect style bar so we're gonna need to mount this bracket to our baseplate. We'll line up the holes and we're gonna take the plate that's got two round holes in it, put it in front, and we're gonna take two of the half inch bolts that come in our kit, pass them through the bracket and the plate, have them go through the removable arm on our baseplate, and then on the backside we're gonna follow each one of those up with a flat washer, a lock washer, and finally secure it down with a nut. Now at this point we just want to get everything on there hand tight, a little snug but you still want to be able to move everything so you don't want to tighten it down all the way. We'll still be able to slide it back and forth and that's what we want.Now it's also gonna come with a cable anchor bracket, you want to make sure that that tab is facing towards the outside of the car and lift it up and the two holes going through the top bracket as well as the anchor plate bracket will line up. Then we're gonna take one of our half inch bolts and a flat washer and go through the outer hole coming from the top, going through both brackets, and secure it down with a nut.

Again we just want to have this real loose, just hand tight, just so it'll hold together and make sure it won't fall off. Now we're gonna repeat that for the other side as well.Now we're gonna take our crossbar, you want to make sure that the pins and tabs are facing towards the front and you'll notice that it's got some bars, those bars are gonna go through the hole in our bracket and then the bars on our bracket are gonna come through the top. We'll loosely get it in place and you may have to move the bracket a little bit left and right in order for it to sit all the way down. Now's the point where we want to make sure that it's centered on the car so you want to double check to make sure that it's centered and adjust left and right either way. Once we have it nice and centered we can go ahead and remove the bar and start tightening up all the bolts.You're gonna want to grab a three-quarter inch socket and wrench and we're gonna tighten up all of our hardware. We'll repeat that for all of our remaining hardware. Now we're gonna come back with a torque wrench and that same three-quarter inch socket and wrench and we're gonna torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. We're gonna repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.Now we want to make sure that our crossbar still fits and our brackets haven't moved. If it does go on and come off easily you know we have it adjusted correct. To secure our quick disconnect to our vehicle we're gonna take the included pins, slide it through the bar going on the top, and then flip the ring over. Just want to make sure that it's fully engaged and touching the pin, you don't want to have it half locked or even up, we want to make sure it's fully locked. On the other side instead of using the pin we're gonna be using the Roadmaster padlock for quick disconnects and it's gonna slide in the same way and this way we'll be able to secure our quick disconnect bar to our vehicle and our padlocks are gonna come with four keys so it's gonna deter any kind of theft of tampering, making sure everything's nice and secure.Now the tow bar itself it's gonna come with safety cables as well as a seven to six wire cord and it does come with a plug in for the car. We already have the plug installed on the front of our car wired up so we'll go ahead and get the tow bar ready. On the bottom side of our tow bar on each arm we're gonna have a channel here that we're gonna be able to run our safety cables and our electrical through. To start I'm gonna take my electrical cable and we're gonna wait to put the plug on because it won't fit but we'll go ahead and feed the cable through one of the arms and you just want to go with whatever arm is closest to the side where you have your plug mounted. Route the cable through just enough to where we have enough to work with then we can take one of our safety cables and we're gonna run one cable through each one of the arms.The arm that has the electrical cable going through it is gonna be a little bit of a snug fit but we'll still be able to get our safety cable and our electrical through. Now with everything ran through the tow bar we can begin to wire up our connector on the end. If we grab the end of our wire the connector here we're gonna have a small Philips head screw towards the front of the plug and a small Philips screw towards the back, we're gonna need to loosen up both of those. Now the one towards the front here we're gonna completely remove, just want to be careful because it is a really small screw and extremely easy to lose. We're gonna loosen up the one in the back, we're not gonna have to take it out but we're gonna want to loosen it up quite a bit. With those two loose we can pull the end of our connector out and then we're gonna take the silver portion and we're gonna feed our wires through and just slide it back out of the way for now.On the back of our connector we're gonna have a total of six terminals that's gonna correspond with the wires coming out of the cable. Now the terminal's are labeled, it's a little bit hard to see but this terminal here is labeled S and that's gonna be for our break or the blue wire, the one next to that is labeled R for right turn and that's gonna be our green wire, L for left turn and our yellow wire, G for ground, and then finally the center one it isn't labeled but that's gonna be our auxiliary port which is gonna be the black wire. We're gonna go through and taking a small Philips head screwdriver, loosen up the set screws on each one, and put the corresponding wire into the correct terminal.Whenever you put your wires in you just want to put the wire in and maybe leave just a little bit of the bare wire sticking out of the top so that the insulation doesn't get in the terminal and cause any kind of intermittent problems or any kind of connection issues. You just want to get just the bare wire inside and then tighten up that set screw. When we have all our connections we'll come back with a little bit of dielectric grease, just gonna put some around all the terminals it's gonna prevent any kind of moisture from getting inside and corrosion from building up. We can take the silver end, slide it back over, line up the screw hole at the top, and take a small set screw and thread it back in. The screw on the back is gonna hold tension on the cable so that they don't get pulled out of the terminals. You want to make sure that the cable is on the correct side of the little tab in there and we're just gonna tighten that screw until it's nice and snug, we don't want to crush the wire.With our tow bar ready and our quick disconnect on our car ready we can grab our motor home and hook everything up. The first thing we're gonna want to do is take the stinger and put it into our hitch or in our case into the high low adapter. Want to line up the pin holes and you can secure it using the pin and clip that is provided but we're gonna be using a lock from Roadmaster to secure our tow bar to our high low adapter as well as the high low adapter to our hitch. Now this is a two pack lock, it comes with four keys, and are both keyed alike so we're not gonna have to worry about losing any keys or fumbling with multiple keys trying to get everything taken apart.Now we're gonna swing the arms towards the car but before we hook them up we're gonna need to remove the pins on our quick disconnect. We just pull the ring up, pull the pin out, and we can remove the large pin, we'll do that for both sides. Can take our arms, spread them open, and we're gonna take the end here and this hole is gonna line up inside that channel and we can take the pin that we removed and coming from the outside going to the middle insert the pin in and then this tab here we're gonna rotate the pin until the hole lines up with the hole in the tab. We can insert the latch pin and lock it down.We can do that same thing on the other side, line it up, put our pin in place, however instead of using the pin we're gonna be using the second padlock that comes in our kit that we used to secure our quick disconnect bar to our car. So that the pin's not loose banging around hitting our tow bar or the car we're gonna go ahead and remove the tethered cable from the ring here and it's gonna work just like a regular key ring so just slide it off and work our way around until we get the whole cable off.Now our safety cables the ball end we're gonna start at the top and we're gonna work our way down until it feeds into this channel here at the bottom and we'll do that for both sides. We're gonna have one more hole in the bottom of our anchor plate, that's gonna attach to the short length cable with a quick disconnect. We already have ours installed from our baseplate however they do provide you with a short cable along with two quick disconnects for each side. We're only gonna be needing to use one since we already have one on our baseplate. We're gonna loosen it up, we're gonna pass our safety cable through, and then we're gonna go through the anchor plate and then we're gonna tighten it up so it's fully closed but hand tight and we'll do that for the other side as well.Then we can take our six way connector, plug it in, you want to make sure that your tab is facing up, that's what this little piece on here's gonna catch to make sure it doesn't get pulled out. Now we can get ready to attach our safety cables, now you always want to cross your safety cables over so I'm taking the one from the driver's side or the left side and I'm gonna cross it over and attach it to the right safety chain loop. I'll do the same thing crossing from the right over to the left. Then finally we can take our seven way, making sure that that square tab is on top, and we can plug it in.With everything hooked up we're ready to get in our motor home and hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Roadmaster Sterling all terrain non binding tow bar, part number RM-576.


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