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Roadmaster Smart Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2022 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install the Roadmaster Smart Diode Wiring Kit on a 2022 Chevrolet Equinox

Hey, everybody. Ryan here at etrailer. Today, on our 2022 Chevy Equinox, we're gonna be showing you how to install the Roadmaster smart diode wiring kit. But before we do that, why don't we check this out and make sure it's gonna work for you So before we get too carried away and start talking about the diode wiring kit, why don't we just kinda refresh ourselves and touch base on the five main components that we're gonna need to flat tow our Equinox down the road in the first place Usually, we like to have everything hooked up to the motor home and really have a good visual on all those components that we're gonna need. But today, due to unforeseen circumstances, we're not able to do that. So just kinda bear with us here, and we're kinda making do and trying our best.

But like I said, there's gonna be five parts. One of 'em is the base plate, and that's going to provide us with a solid and reliable attachment point. That way, we can hook our tow bar up to it. And the tow bar is gonna be that second component. And that's gonna be the physical link that actually connects to the front of our Chevy and runs up to the back of our motor home.

The third main component will be safety cables, and those are just gonna connect to your base plate and to your motor home's hitch. And that's just going to kinda be a safety device in case you have an unlikely disconnect, there to keep everything paired together. The fourth main component will be tow bar wiring. And what this is gonna do is transfer the lighting functions from the back of your motor home to the back of your SUV, keeping you safe and legal. And last but not least, the fifth main component will be a supplemental braking system.

And what this is gonna do is apply the brakes in your Equinox whenever you hit the brakes in your coach, helping bring you to a more complete and predictable stop. But with that out of the way, let's talk about how this works. So, you know, whenever you're hooked up to your RV and you turn on your lights, that signal will be sent back here. So right now, I'm just hooked up to a test box. That's kinda simulating an RV just so we can actually see something.

But say if you're in your RV, turn your left blinker on, this'll come on. Your right blinker, that one will come on. And then, you also get your taillights as well as your brake lights. So you kinda have all your bases covered there. When it comes to picking out wiring to get this job done, the diode kit is one that I always recommend. And that's really because it's a permanent-type install. It looks factory once it's in place, and they seem to be really reliable. We do a lot of these and rarely run into issues with them as opposed to, let's say magnetic lighting for example. Those are a wiring kit that have lights that are on magnets that you stick onto the roof of your car. And then, you gotta run wires all the way up and plug it into your motor home. And it's just kind of a pain, you know You're obviously dealing with that. And then, you gotta store a big bundle of wires and lights. And as we know, when you're over the road, storage, you can never get enough of it. So with a setup like this, you're not gonna have to worry about it. And it's more or less just gonna get the job done. With this particular kit, this is gonna work with those Equinoxes that have the incandescent-type bulbs, so kinda just your classic automotive light bulb. If your Equinox has LEDs, there's a kit designed for them as well. I think some of the premier models might come with that. So that's always an option for you as well. And something that's pretty cool with the smart diodes is, there's a couple things really about 'em. One of 'em, they're quite a bit smaller than the standard diode kit, which is good 'cause you don't have a ton of space back here. So a little bit smaller and there's only one diode per side as opposed to the standard kit where you're gonna have two diodes per side. So it takes up more space. And then, obviously, you gotta have more connections and more stuff going on that's, you know, more than likely over these two have something come loose or run into any of those type of issues, which kinda brings me to my next point. Whenever you put these on and install 'em, you're only gonna have to tap into one factory wire. So really straightforward. It's really hard to mess up. And, you know, anything that you can do to eliminate a potential failure is definitely a step in the right direction. And so I really think they did a good job with the design of the smart diode. So here, up front, whenever you're ready to actually hook up to your motor home, all you're gonna have to do is take the cable that comes from the back of the motor home, seven-way, and plug it right on in. And that's really all there is too it. You don't have to set anything up or bother with anything else. Something I do wanna mention, though, I'll get this out of the way, is the kit is not gonna come included with this six-way round connector. So you will have to get it separately. But think about too if you're buying a whole package, let's say if you're getting a tow bar and everything as well and let's say, for example, I know right off the top of my head the Roadmaster Nighthawk. That'll actually come with the connector, and it'll come with an umbilical like this as well. So think about the whole package, you know If not, if your tow bar doesn't come with one or you need one, you can always grab this separately. Not really a big deal. And you'll also need a connector cable like this too. So this particular one is a straight cable. So six-way round to a seven-way round on one end. And think about these too. If your tow bar has channels that run along the side of it, you'll want the straight one or there's a hybrid one as well that's straight and at the end has some coils in it. If your tow bar doesn't have those channels to run wires through, you want the coil-type cable. And there's several different options in terms of, you know, six-way round on one end to a seven-way on the other and so on. So put everything together accordingly. And, you know, we'll definitely have an option for you. Other than that, though, at the end of the day, I mean, a kit that's gonna get the job done. And like I said, we've had a lot of luck with them in the past. So really can't ask for too much more. As far as the install goes, really not bad. It's not confusing per se, more or less time consuming just having to run wires and everything, but something you only have to do one time and then it's done. So as long as you stay focused, you really shouldn't run into too many issues. But speaking of that, why don't we go ahead and hook everything up together now To begin our wiring installation, we're gonna be here at the front of our vehicle. And clearly, we have the front fascia removed, and that's because we're doing this at the same time that we're doing our base plate, which I suggest doing, makes it a lot easier. But first thing we wanna do is take the end of our wires here and, you know, place 'em over here where our bracket is and get our connector hooked up. And this red wire, in case you're wondering, this isn't part of the diode kit. This is actually what's called a charge line. And since we have to run these wires up, you know, might as well do this one at the same time and save us a little bit of time there. So that's what that is in case you're wondering. But for the diodes, we're gonna have this, right And what we wanna do is very carefully cut in between. And then, peel these apart a little bit. We're gonna strip back the ends of the insulation, maybe about something like this. And then, give these a good twist. And I'll just do that same thing for our remaining wires here. With the wires twisted like that, we're gonna take our bus cover and slide that over all our wires and just kinda push that out of the way for now. And then, we can grab our connector plug. So if you look on the back of it where the terminals are, there's gonna be set screws in there and you wanna back the set screw out with a small Phillips screwdriver pretty much all the way. You don't wanna pull it all the way out, though. 'Cause if you do, these are kind of a pain to get back in and they're easy to lose. But they're gonna be labeled, so we're gonna be working with this one here. That's labeled TM for taillight. So the brown wire will go to it. This one is labeled GD for ground, so the white wire will go to it. This one is labeled LT for left turn, so the yellow wire will go into there. And then, this one will be RT for right turn, so the green wire will go into it. So we'll take the appropriate wire color. So we'll just start with our taillight, which is brown. We're going to place the bare end of the wire into the terminal and then just tighten on the set screw. And so I'll all do the same thing for our remaining wires. Here's what all the wires look like in the back of our connector plug here. And what I'll do now is I'll hook up our charge line wire to the back of this as well. And then, we can secure this and start to route our wires back. Now that we're hooked up, we can take our rubber boot, put it back over our six-way connector, and you can apply dielectric grease and sealer and stuff to the terminals inside there and tape everything up and keep moisture out. I like to wait to the very end of the flat tow setup, though, to do that just so we can make sure everything's working and stuff. That way, if it's not, it's not a big mess in here. But for now, we'll go ahead and just mount this up to our base plate. And then, the wiring is gonna get routed inside of the engine apartment. So just ran it along through here and up where it comes in essentially right underneath our headlight. The diode wiring comes right up into the engine compartment up through here, and we gotta get it to the bottom side of our car. So I just ran it along through here kinda straight back and dropped it right down the firewall to the bottom side of our Equinox. Now, underneath the vehicle, our wiring comes down right along all of our factory brake lines. And, you know, when you're routing wiring, make sure to do your best to avoid any hot or moving parts, and use zip ties along the way to keep everything secure. Our wiring just runs along through here. You might have some type of panel or something here blocking all this. If you do, usually, there's some nuts that you can pull off to drop that down out of the way. But once we get to about this point, what I did was just take our white wire and just separate it from the rest of the strand. And this is gonna need to be grounded. And so I'm thinking probably right here in this area will be pretty good. So I'm gonna cut the white wire. And then, we can strip back the insulation on it. And then, we'll take one of the ring terminals, slide that on, and crimp it down. Then, we can use one of the self-tapping screws to secure it onto the body of our vehicle here. With that done, though, we can continue to route our wires. So I just continued along, following our factory lines right up through here on the side of our gas tank. And then, it goes up and over our subframe where it drops down right here. Right about when we get to this point, you can separate the ends of the wires again. And the brown wire, you're going to cut in half about right here probably. In one end, you'll strip the insulation back, and I'll double this one over, a little bit thicker, and you're gonna take a butt connector. And actually, now that I'm thinking of it, we'll straighten this one out. This'll be a little bit easier to route. And then, you can take the piece of white wire that we had left over from our ground, strip that end back, and you're gonna twist these ends together. Butt connector goes over both ends and gets crimped down. And I'm using a heat shrink butt connector. It just helps protect against corrosion and stuff a little bit better. The one that comes with the kit will work just fine, but if you'd rather upgrade to this, you always can get it here at etrailer. And then, this end, this end we'll double over. So twist it. I'm just doing that 'cause this butt connector is pretty big and the wire will fit in there better. Crimp that down. And with this being a heat shrink, I'll come back with my heat source and seal up the ends. What I've done now is just let our brown and yellow wire kinda hang here. And that's because this will eventually get routed up on the driver side behind the taillight there. And then, our white and green wire, I ran over to the passenger side. So I just brought it along through here, and I actually ran it through the hole in our bumper beam. So I pushed it in where it comes all the way out on the other side. And now, we can just let the green and white wire hang for now. And this will get eventually routed up to the taillight pocket on the passenger side. Now, we can get our taillights removed. That way, we can get our wires up here and everything. So you're gonna have these caps. You can pop them out. Just take a small screwdriver or something, kinda pry behind there. And that's going to expose a T15 Torx bit screw. We can pull these on out. And we should be able to kinda work our taillight straight back. And sometimes, these can get hung up. And just make sure you pull straight back and try to maneuver it a little bit at a time. You don't wanna get too crazy cranking on it 'cause you might break it. But now with that said, we'll go ahead remove our connectors. So there's gonna be a tab. Push down on the middle of the tab. It'll separate it. Same thing for that one there. And now, we can do the same thing on the other side of our vehicle and set our taillights off to the side. So what I've done is grabbed our wiring and pulled it up through the opening in our taillight pocket. And then, cut it to length, maybe about a foot to work with. Strip back the ends of insulation. And then, I just crimped on all the terminals here, just like how we did the ground wire when we crimped that terminal on. Then, this big clip here, you can peel the tape off and you're looking for the brake light signal. So I checked it and it's on the driver's side here, the yellow wire with the blue stripe. So what you're gonna do is cut back about a half. You don't have a ton of wire to work with here. But both ends of this insulation are gonna get stripped back as well. And be careful, be kinda gentle with this wiring. It's pretty thin. So both of those are going to receive our terminals. Put this one on. Crimp it down. Not a bad idea either, especially for these real skinny wires, whenever you crimp these on to kinda lightly pull back on it. I mean, you don't have to rip it apart, but just a light tug there to make sure it's seated good. And what we we're gonna do is grab our diode now. And if we look, this side will say car brake out. That's gonna get plugged in right there. Car brake in will get plugged in there. And then, our new wiring, I'll kinda tuck this down here, our new wiring, the RV tail, will be the brown wire. And the RV brake will be our yellow wire. And that'll leave us with one more to get hooked up here. And so I already made and put the wire together. They give you these little pieces of white wire. One end, you crimp on a terminal. Other end, crimp on a ring terminal. So that'll go to ground. And then, I'll come back. I need to grab my screw here, but I'll grab that, and then we can come back and ground this out to the body of our vehicle. I think I'm just gonna go right here in this area. It's kinda out of the way. So self-tapping screw, we'll secure it down. With everything hooked up, we can get our taillight plugged back in and reinstalled. I do wanna mention just for a little extra added peace of mind and security, knowing these things aren't gonna come out, I did put some RTV silicone there just to help kinda glue 'em in place, I guess you could say. 'Cause sometimes, these can wiggle loose. You know, you put some miles on the car and everything, so that'll just help 'em keep secure. Especially since we really can't mount this up in a great spot. It'll just be kinda jammed in there. But I'll go ahead and plug our taillight connectors back in. And carefully, reinstall the light. Over here on the passenger side, essentially, we set this up the exact same way. Really, the only difference being the color of the wires. So RV brake, you're gonna put your new green wire in it. RV tail, you're gonna put your new white wire into it. Car brake in, that's the factory brown wire with a green stripe. And obviously, car brake out, that same color wire you just hook it up to the side closer to the connector. And then, our ground. So just like the other side, they give you a little piece of wire. Hook it up and screw it down where we did the other one. Again, I put my silicone there. And now, we'll just plug this back in and resecure it. Now, we can test our wiring to make sure it's working properly. So I just hooked up to a test box that stimulates a motor home. You can just use your motor home. But keep in mind, if your motor home has issues, then that could translate back to your vehicle. That said, I will turn on our taillight, our left turn signal, our right turn signal, and our brake lights. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Roadmaster smart diode wiring kit on our 2022 Chevrolet Equinox..

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Michael B
Installed by:
Michael B

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