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Roadmaster Variable Voltage LED Tail Lights Wiring Kit Installation - 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Roadmaster Variable Voltage LED Tail Lights Wiring Kit on a 2022 Jeep Wrangler U

Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer, and today we're taking a look in installing the Roadmaster Smart Diode Wiring Kit for towed vehicles on a 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. Now, when you're setting a vehicle up for flat towing, there's gonna be five required components enabled to do this. And the first one being the base plate. So that's where we can actually make that connection point between the vehicle and the tow bar. The tow bar is gonna be the connection point between that base plate and the actual RV's hitch. Now, you'll also have your supplemental braking system.

And this is required in all states. And so that's gonna be our breakaway switch, and in this instance, air brakes, also our airline. You also have your diode wiring, which is going to allow you to send those signals from your camper to your vehicle as you're driving, letting people know what you're actually doing. You also have your safety chains. And so in case of an accidental disconnect, you actually have those chains to hold onto that vehicle.

Now, keep in mind, our Roadmaster Nighthawk here actually came with our safety chains. Not all of them do, so make sure you pick up a set of those if your tow bar doesn't have those already. But with all of those components, you're gonna be able to tow your vehicle safely and legally. Now, with all of this exposed, something that's optional that you can add on is gonna be something like this Roadmaster Tow Guardian. That's actually gonna create a nice covered sheet here to prevent the vehicle from getting any rock chips or road debris while being towed.

Now, something else you might consider adding on to your flat tow setup is going to be a charge line. And the charge line simply goes to your six pole, and it allows the vehicle or the camper to send electricity to this circuit breaker here, which is going to be able to charge our battery as we're towing. So that way, when you get to the campsite or wherever your final destination is, you're not having to jump your vehicle, it's actually charging while driving. So the diodes are a great system, and it's going to allow you to have your turn signals, brake lights and running lights go to your towed vehicle. And there's other options out there as far as magnetic lights, but a lot of times you have to drape those wires over to your RV.

And also, that's one more thing you have to store. Doing the smart diodes is gonna great because it prevents backfeed. And once you're tied into your electrical system, it's plug and play at that point. Every time you hook up, your lights should work in unison with your RV. Now, the way the diode system works is it actually goes from your seven pole on the RV, through the umbilical to your six pole up front. And that's gonna send those taillight signals, brake light signals and turn signals to the vehicle, mimicking what you're doing in your RV. So that's gonna let people behind you know what you're actually doing. Now, our kit, we actually had this umbilical with our tow bar, but you can actually pick up the kit in a wide variety of different ways, including umbilicals or without, but just make sure you have this, actually, in your order to make sure that you can send those signals through. Now, as far as installation goes, you are pretty much just running a plug up front, to the back of the vehicle, to the taillights. Now, you do have to take the taillights out and splice into those factory wires. But the diodes are pretty easy. With a few spade connectors and a little bit of crimping here and there, you can get this set up pretty easily. So I'm gonna walk you through those steps to make sure that you can get your diodes installed on your Jeep. So, to begin our installation of our diode wiring, I'm actually going to just make a loop here where our connection's actually going to take place with our six pole. So, I've just taped this up, that way it kind of stays in place, and I'm gonna be routing this to the back of the vehicle. I'm also gonna pull up a little bit of extra up into the engine compartment. As the battery's on the passenger side, I'm gonna pull it up there, and that's gonna allow us to tie into our braking system. Not all of them will need to have that power in there, but many times you're gonna have to run a connection into the engine bay. And having that bit of extra pulled up, you'll be thankful you did that later on. So I'll go ahead and I'll get this routed up and run this to the back of the vehicle, then I'll show you how I did that. So let's trace this wiring back, that way we know we have enough in the back because we will be splitting up some of those wires as we jump to the other side of the vehicle. And, that extra wiring, a lot of times, will become that extra jumper cable that we'll need. So I like to run it first to see how much we're actually working with. So first thing I did, I just kind of taped it up here, that way, we know we have at least enough for when we need to run our plug. From there, I've simply ran it to this backside of the mudguard here. And there's really no great places to attach here. You don't want to attach to the sway bar because it'll be moving. There's a few attachment points you could maybe zip tie to, but honestly, it's not gonna cause too much issue being in this area and it's still covered. From here, I've routed it up to the battery. Now, my goal in everything, in running this, is staying away from anything moving or hot. And that's not exactly super easy to do in this vehicle, but running along with our factory electrical, as long as we stay away from our belt here, we should be okay. So I tucked that up, pulled maybe about a foot. And again, that's gonna be just if we need to tie into any electrical, it's gonna be a lot easier to do it in the engine bay rather than under the vehicle. So I've then pulled that down and I've made my way over here. Now, you do have some exhaust here, but what I did is I actually ran it out right here, it's kind of staying away from it. There's some other electrical wire, now, granted, it's heat-coated. But running along there, it's not gonna make direct contact, so I'm pretty confident that it should be okay. From there, I simply just ran it alongside the top of the frame rail, all the way back, following these factory electrical wires and just zip-tying it every couple of foot just to make sure it's not gonna move. Now from there, I've actually tucked it up over the fuel tank and I just kind of zip-tied it on to this little spring mount. And then from here, I've gone up, found the spots to zip-tie, that way it's not gonna make contact with our muffler, and then I've routed this over to this back little pocket. Now, you're gonna see there's a decent amount of wiring here. And that's good because we're gonna be tying into this side as well as the other side. So this should allow us to have enough wire to make it to both of them. So now, let's get our taillights out and we can start making these connections. So, we need to gain access to the actual plugs on our taillights as we're gonna be splicing into them. Now, on the Jeep, the way we're gonna do that is, there's gonna be this little access panel up here. You're gonna see there's a little notch. So we're just gonna kind of put a small flat head here and just pry up. It should come out fairly easily. We got a gap there, we can kind of just pry it like that. And then you're gonna see, there is a, it looks almost like a T30 Torx Bit, but it's also a hex there. So a 10 millimeter should be able to take that out, and that's gonna get us to be able to take our taillights out. So let's go ahead, we'll get this 10 millimeter out real quick. Now, we can already see our taillights getting a little wobbly here, so that's a good sign. And that's what it's gonna look like. You can see it's spring-loaded there. So there's our plastic thread. Be careful with this because you don't want to damage those. We're gonna be holding onto this because we'll need it for re-installation. But at this point, we should be able to get our taillight out, like so. Now, we are gonna be tying into the wiring that's actually on the bulb itself. We're gonna go ahead, we will get this unplugged here and separated from the vehicle. That way it's gonna be a little bit easier to work on. So in order to do that, we're simply gonna pull this red tab back. That's gonna unlock it. And then you can push this in, and then just pull on this plug here. These two should separate, and that will actually unclip from there too if you need a little more room. There we go. So we have this separated. We can go ahead and put our taillight in a safe location, I'm gonna just put it in the back of the Jeep, and then we can actually go ahead and do the same thing on the other side to get that taillight out as well. So now, I'm gonna start on my driver's side and we're gonna gain access to our wire here. And I've gone ahead and tested it, and we're really just looking for our brake light on this one. So I've gone ahead and tested that, I know which wire we need. So at this point, I'm gonna take off our little zip tie clip here so we can actually reuse it. And to do that, I just have a small slotted screwdriver, I'm gonna just feed it on the back end here to push that tab. And it's not required to do this by any means, but if we can reuse this, it is nice. It kind of keeps it all in place. So pushing on that backside, you should be able to peel this out a little bit here. And really, we're just trying to gain access to the sheathing here, 'cause we're gonna need to peel that back to get to our wires. So again, if this is something you don't wanna say, that's totally fine, you can actually omit this portion. But let's get this out here. Now we got that separated. So now what we're gonna do is, if you can find the end here of this tape and unravel that way, that's awesome if you can. A lot of times it is kind of bound up there. So you can take a utility knife or you can take even a pair of snips and just kind of work your way down here. Now, be careful, obviously not to damage any of the wire. But if you can kind of take some of this end up a little, you should be able to work your way down. And then once you kind of get a split, a lot of times you can actually just start peeling it all back. But if we can peel back a section about that long, that's gonna gain us access to those wires. It's gonna make it a lot easier to attach our diodes. Now, both sides are gonna have this sheathings, so once you get this one peeled back, you're gonna want to do the same on the other side. Swap to our utility knife here. Now, with your knife, just be careful. Kind of catch that edge, work your way down, but make sure you're not splicing or cutting any wires, and that's really gonna peel this backwards here. And this should be enough. A lot of times on other vehicles, when you do this, it's pretty tight in here, so fitting those diodes in place kind of get tricky. But with the Jeep, there's definitely a large cavity here that we can actually have our diodes hide in there. The next thing you're gonna want to do, I've tested it, but just to be sure, if you have electric probe here, just find your ground, and what your looking for, again, is gonna be your brake light. So you're gonna have someone hit the brakes, and as you go through these pins, you're gonna find which one is actually lighting up and actually shutting off as you modulate the pedal. And then from there, you're gonna look at where that wire comes out and determine which one you're gonna need. Now, after we've gone ahead and tested the brake lights, we found that we have, on our driver's side, it's gonna be a yellow wire, and on our passenger side, it's gonna be a green wire. So I'm gonna go ahead, I'm gonna peel back the insulation on the other side and we're gonna route those wires up. But having these exposed is gonna make the install go pretty smooth. So let's go ahead and we'll hop on the other side. So now, looking at our diode here, it's kind of nice that it is all labeled. We have our RV brake, our RV tail, our car brake in, and then our car brake out, as well as a ground. So the out is gonna go towards the actual taillight. This is gonna be the wiring that goes in the plug. This is gonna live right in here and we'll be making other attachments. But for now, we know that we have our green wire here on the passenger side, so we're gonna tie into that. And these little spade clips actually come off, so it's gonna make it a little bit easier to make this connection. So what we'll do is we're gonna cut this. I'm gonna go up a little bit higher. I found that over time, just the few installs that I have done, if you put it too close to the plug, a lot of times that does create an issue as far as clearance. Again, on the Jeeps, I'm not too worried, but we'll just go ahead and we'll kind of cut a little ways up here. So with that green cut, go ahead, you can strip off the ends. And then we'll just take our spade connectors here and we're gonna crimp these in place. And with all your electrical connections, I always try to give it just a quick tug just to make sure that it's not gonna come loose. It's a lot better than having to go back and find a slightly loose connection knowing that you did it right the first time. So we have those crimped in place, so we can actually get this plugged in. Our vehicle side of our wiring will be brake car in, and then our other side, which is close to the plug, it's gonna be car brake out. So then you're probably wondering, "What do we do with the rest of them" Well, pretty easy. This one we have our ground, and it comes with this little nice ground wire in the kit. So we'll go ahead, we'll make our attachment here with our ground. So this will give you enough room to be able to mount your ground screw kind of in a multitude of locations. So we'll just go ahead, we'll put that spade terminal on one end. And then on our other end, we have a ring terminal, and that's gonna allow us to put our self-tapping screw in to get that ground proper. And I'm gonna just leave this here for now. We do have a self-tapper, we're gonna be mounting that up, but I wanna make sure we get the rest of our connections in place, that way we still have a little bit of room to move around before mounting this up. So you're gonna see RV brake and RV tail. Well, this is when we need to pull up our wiring that we actually ran into the back of the vehicle. Now, the way to get this kind of up to where we need it to be, we use a fish wire technique. So if you have a wire or string or anything along those lines, that's gonna to help to be able to pull this wire up, and we're gonna be doing that on the other side as well. So I might grab something that's somewhat flexible and it's not gonna damage the vehicle. I'm gonna be using airline tube as we have a bunch of spare here, and that seems to work really well. So let me get that and I'll show you how to route this up. So the airline tube, I've simply passed through, you can see this circular in here, I just ran that down and then reached up from the bottom side and found the other end. And that's gonna make it really easy to run this wire up. Now, on this side, you're gonna see we just have two connections left and we have our ground already, so there's only two wires that we have to run. Our green is actually gonna go on the right turn signal, so the passenger side, and then our brown is actually going to be our brake light from the RV. Now, this is going to jump over. So we'll show you how to do that pretty easily here, but for now, the white one is gonna be a vehicle ground. So we are gonna have to find a ground spot for this. It can be back here, you can ground it up in the engine bay. Wherever you really want to choose to do, it doesn't really make a difference as long as you find a suitable ground. So we're gonna go ahead. Left turn signal or our driver's side is gonna be our yellow. So I'm gonna just peel back these to where we just have our green and brown. And I also said we need to find a vehicle ground. So I have this white wire and there is quite a bit of extra here, and having to jump these wires over, sometimes it's nice to keep that extra that you'll need and you can use that as a jumper. I'm gonna try my best to use the brown to keep the colors cohesive, but if that's not the case and you need to run extra wire, having this little extra here can come into play. So, for now, though, what I'll do, I'll take our green and our brown, and I'm gonna run these in my airline really quick. And if you're using a string or something along those lines, I suggest taking electrical tape and just wrap it around that connection point a few times so it holds on as you pull that through. And then you're simply going to pull this up gently, and now we have our wires. So you can see we have quite a bit of extra wire here and we really only need to tie into this portion. So I'm gonna leave a little bit of extra, but I think we can cut off here. Now we can go ahead and strip these back as well. So now we're going to take off our spade clips where we have our RV tail and our RV brake. So let's get these off. We can go ahead and make the connection here on our wires that we ran. So now we're able to plug these into our diode and we're gonna have, our green will be our braking here. So we can go ahead and get that popped into place, and then our brown is gonna go into the center. So now all that's left to do on this end is actually attach our ground screw. So if there's a factory ground you can tie to, that's awesome, it's gonna make it a little bit easier, but we have a lot of plain metal here that we're able to actually make a connection to. So with the self-tapper included, we're gonna go ahead and mount it up. And I can that I have quite a bit of space here. This little arm seems to actually move with the tailgate as I open it. So I'm gonna try my best to get this up and out of the way so it's not gonna make any contact with that. So if can find a nice clean spot, you're gonna wanna make sure that you don't have anything behind it before drilling into it. So I think I could probably get away with just putting it right about here. So I'm gonna go ahead, grab my drill and we'll get this tapped in. With your self-tappers, you don't have to get too crazy. If you go too tight it'll actually kind of strip out those threads that you just made. So just enough to where that ring terminal is not gonna rotate or swivel and you should be good. So now you can see we have our green and our brown run up to our white. We then have our vehicle ground. Again, you can kind of ground this wherever you please. I'm gonna actually put my ring terminal on and ground it up here. And then cutting a off this extra wire, this is gonna be our runner. I was gonna try to use brown to keep all the colors cohesive. But essentially, what we're gonna be doing is tying into this brown. And we'll just make a connection here with a butt connector and then we'll route this over with our yellow, and that way we're getting signals to both whites, that's that kind of jumper between the two. So we'll be using this extra wire here to make that connection. First thing I'm gonna go ahead, I'm gonna cut this and get our ring terminal on and we'll get this grounded up. So now grab a self-tapper from the kit. Again, you can kind of find a spot that you find works best for you for the ground. I just found one that's kind of tucked up out of the way that shouldn't cause us too much issue and should be easy to get installed. So now we have our ground, and then we have our yellow that's gonna run over. Before we do that, let's attach to our brown wire for our jumper. So the way that I'm gonna do that is, I'm gonna be using a heat shrink butt connector. And the reason being is, heat shrink, once you actually heat it up, it creates a nice watertight seal. So since this kind of lives in an area where it could get wet over time, this will just give that added protection. So let's go ahead and cut this brown wire. Just note which one is which. So this is going to the taillight, this is gonna be going back to our actual wire. So we make our connection by stripping these ends off. We are going up to our wiring there. We'll make this connection here. Now, if you don't have heat shrink butt connectors, you can run this connection further up to where it's not in the way of any water or anything like that, it's kind of up to you. But if you wanna pick some up, they're really nice to have for things like this. We actually sell these here at etrailer, so if you need to pick some up, you can actually get them here. So now we have our taillight here, the one that goes to that wiring. And then this is our jumper, this is not a ground wire anymore because we made that cut. We can go ahead, we can get these twisted up together. So now I'm gonna go back with my heat gun and I'm gonna get this shrinked up. I've gone ahead and I just took my yellow wire as well as our jumper wire, and I just routed along the hitch, zip-tying it up, and that way it's out of any moving parts or hot parts. So using the same fish wire technique, we'll go ahead and get these pulled through. And make sure when you are routing your wires on the bottom end, you're finding the proper route to not only give you the most amount of slack, but also not have it caught on anything that could potentially cause issues. I'm gonna route mine just a little bit different here. So now we have this routed up. We had plenty of extra wire here, so go grab our diode and the rest of our parts and we'll get this one installed as well. Now, here on our driver's side, we're gonna be doing the same thing we did on the other. So first thing we're gonna do, let's make our cut here. Our yellow is going to be the one that is gonna be running to our car brake in and our car brake out. Now we can go ahead and we can make our attachment. Now, our RV tail, that's gonna be that shared jumper wire that we use. So for our purposes, it's gonna be our white one. So we can go ahead and make that attachment. So this is gonna go onto our RV tail. Let's go ahead and reattach this guy. Now, another trick that you can do, you don't have to, but a lot of times we'll go back with black silicone and actually touch all these connection points up, and that way it's kind of sealed, you're not gonna have any water or anything like that building up in it over time and breaking down that connection. I'm gonna go ahead and get a little bit of connection on this one here. So at this point you can see our driver's side here, what we have going on. So we have our factory yellow wire brake in, brake out. So we have that. Our taillight, that's gonna be our jumper wire. So if you had extra brown, it'll be brown, but ours is white for this instance. And then we have have our yellow wire that we ran from that four wire. So that's gonna go into our RV brake. And then we just had that little ground jumper that came in the kit. Now, you're gonna see all these wires here. It has 3M to attach. If you really want to though, you can actually kind of electrical tape this up, and that's just gonna keep this bundled to where it hopefully shouldn't come undone, 'cause you can see these do wobble a little bit. So if you are doing Jeep things and going off-roading, you don't want these to separate while you're driving. So that's up to you, it's kind of at your discretion. But at this point, we're really ready to get our taillights back in, and then we're gonna go up front, test to make sure that they work, and that should be just about it for our diodes. So, now that all of our connections have been made, I've gone ahead and I've put black silicone just kind of where the wires go into those spade connectors. It's totally up to you, it's just a little black silicone RTV, and that's just gonna kind of seal that up for a little bit of added protection. And now I've also wrapped a little bit of electrical tape around this just to kind of hold those in place so over time hitting bumps and what not isn't gonna alter these lights working. So go ahead, put your plug back in, make sure it's locked and we can get the taillights back installed. And that should be just about it for our diodes. To finish up our diode wiring, we're gonna be attaching our plug here. Now, if you are running a charge line, which is gonna allow your battery to charge while towing, now is a good time to make sure that you have that run as this is gonna attach to the plug as well. So, we see we have our wires ran here, go ahead and you can put your boot up. And we're going to just attach this to these little receptacles. And so you're gonna need a pretty small Phillips-head screw driver as that's how we're gonna be attaching them. So get that handy, as well as your strippers and we'll get these installed. So hooking this up, it's actually kind of nice on the backside, there are letters embossed in there, so that's gonna tell you where these all need to go. Now, to break it down, we have here our four wires that we've ran as well as our charge line. So the way it's gonna go is, green is going to go to our right turn signal, and that's gonna be denoted as RT. Our yellow is gonna be our left turn, which is gonna be LT. We have our brown, this is gonna be our taillight markers, that's gonna go to TM. And then we have white for ground. And then our ground is noted as GD. And then we also have this red power wire, that's gonna go in the center, that's gonna be our 12 volt supply. And then there's gonna be another one, the S, supplementary, and that's gonna be if you we're to run a different wire here, but we only of these five. So I'm gonna go ahead, get them attached and show you how it looks. And again, the way you're gonna do this is using a small Phillips. You're gonna just kind of back these out a little bit, put your wire in place and tighten that down. I suggest, don't pull these out all the way, because if they fall out, they are kind of a pain to get back into place. So let's go ahead, we'll get these attached and then we'll take a look at it. Also, make sure you do have your boot put on here first, otherwise you're gonna have to take these off in order to get that in place. So just run that back a little bit as you're installing. So with all of our wires in their proper location, as I explained earlier, we have these all tightened down. Now, this step is optional to you, but it does give a little bit of added protection. And I'll just put in a little bit of black silicone kind of in right where those terminals are. And sometimes this can be kind of globbed up, but this is gonna help kind of just keep these in place and make sure that no water's going to get in there and curl the wires over time. So as I kind of put these in here, I'm gonna go back and I just use a zip tie to kind of just make sure that all of those are actually coated in there, so I just kind of make sure that all those connections where we tightened down, basically it's feeding into those. And then once you have that all siliconed up, we can then take our boot, slide this over. And then at this point, I take electrical tape and I'm gonna get my wire loom kind of tucked in with this, and then just kind of wrap this up just to kind of, again, create a watertight seal here that is not gonna cause any water getting into our plug over time. Again, this is just added protection, and that way you're not having to go back in a few years and having to replace all this. All right, so now that we have that all sealed up, we can actually go ahead and get this mounted in. So as you can see, the holes are already there, and, oops, go ahead, take your hardware, get this in place and get it tightened up. So we're attaching this to this bracket. This actually comes with our base plate. So if your vehicle, if you have a different base plate, sometimes these will be a little bit different. And also, if you need brackets to get these mounted up, we have plenty of options here at etrailer. So yours may look just a little bit different than what we're using here. So now, our final step is going to be testing the actual diodes to make sure they're working. And the way we're gonna do that, we have a test box here, but you can actually hook it up to your RV and run it through the light signals. So, for the light signals, we're gonna have our running lights, our both turn signals, as well as our brake lights, and they should correspond to the back of the vehicle as you hit them in your RV. So this is gonna simulate the exact same thing, so we're gonna run through and test this out. So first, I'm gonna start off with our taillights. The next thing I'm gonna test is our left turn signal, then our right turn signal, and then finally, our brake lights. So now with everything tested and working properly, you're ready to hook up to your RV and your diode portion of your vehicle should be working. And that was a look in installation of the Roadmaster Smart Diode Wiring Kit for your 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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