Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar Installation - 2019 Ford F-53

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How to Install the Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar on a 2019 Ford F-53

Today on our 2019 Ford F53 Chassis Motorhome, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster rear anti-sway bar.Having a motorhome can be a really fun thing and we can enjoy it a lot. We can go places we've never been before, spend time with our family, go camping, or anything like that. But at the same time, it can be really stressful and even scary at times because a motorhome is, it's a rather big vehicle and there's a lot of area here for the wind to catch. So when we're driving down the road, it may feel like we're getting pushed around and the body starts to lean and roll especially when a semi drives past us or we hit a big crosswind.So before we put any of our suspension components on, let's take it on our test course and see how it handles.As I bring our motorhome through the slalom course, you can definitely feel a lot of body roll going on like it almost wants to lean before it starts to turn. And coming in and out of the turns, it really feels like I need to slow down so I don't lose too much control and it's just kind of an unnerving feeling.As I'm going through the bump course, you can definitely feel every single one. The alternating bumps is really throwing me side to side and the rebound on them is a little unnerving and I'm really just having to fight the steering wheel the entire way.But now that everything is on, let's go and take our motorhome back on our test course and see how it handles now.As I'm driving through the slalom course here, I can immediately tell the difference.

I can relax a lot more. I feel a lot more in control of the motorhome and really, it doesn't roll as much, just feels a lot more planted on the ground and it's a lot easier to maneuver in and out of the turns.And over our bumps course, don't get me wrong, the bumps, you can definitely feel them, but the motorhome is definitely reacting more quickly and it gets back to that neutral position rather than continuing to bounce a whole lot. Overall, our motorhome just feels a lot more stable. It's a lot more comfortable to drive and going over the bumps and in and out of the turns, it's not rolling as much and it definitely just feels more solid.So here's what our Roadmaster anti-sway bar is going to look like once we have it installed. Now this is going to vastly improve the stability and reduce the amount of body roll that we have when we're driving, which in turn means that we're not going to have to fight that steering wheel so much and we can relax while we're driving down the road.

And our sway bar is going to do that because it's going to mount directly to the axle here and also to the frame. So whenever the axle starts to twist and we get that rolling effect going on, one side will go down. Naturally the other side is going to want to come up, but since the bar is attached and anchored at the frame, when one side goes down, the energy is going to get transferred through the bar to the other side and it's going to naturally want to pull that side down as well. So we'll get a nice level, stable ride when we're going to down the road.Now if we move to the front side of the axle, you'll notice that we still have our factory sway bar in place. That's because our Roadmaster sway bar is not meant to replace it.

It's just there to help give us extra support so we can make sure that the back end has enough stability in it and we're not going to get that rolling feeling. Another nice thing Roadmaster did is they gave us polyurethane bushings rather than the rubber ones that are pretty standard. Now the polyurethane means that we're not going to have to worry about maintaining it and it is going to hold up a lot better than the rubber counterpart.The bar itself is going to be made out of a 4140 chrome moly steel and it is going to be an inch and a half in diameter. So we know it's going to be nice and durable and it's going to have a lot more stiffness and strength than the factory bar will. A lot of our customers do decide to get the front anti-sway bar as well because that's really going to diminish the entire amount of body roll from the front all the way to the back.One of the nicest thing about our sway bar is the fact that we can install this with all four tires still on the ground.

But now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's put it on together.To begin our installation, we want to park our motorhome on a flat, level surface and then we're going to want to use a leveling jack so we can raise up the rear end just a bit so the suspension can hang down. You can leave the tires on the ground, but you do want to have a little bit of a gap.Now if we look inside the rear wheel well, right behind our tires, we'll find the frame rail and the lead spring right here. You'll notice that we're going to have four bolts that's holding our cross member in place. You need to remove the bottom two so we're going to grab a 21 millimeter socket and pull those out.Now on the back side of the frame they are going to have nuts, but they have these tabs on them that will hit the side of the frame and keep it from spinning, so we don't have to use a wrench, but you do want to hold onto the bolts and the nuts.So we can grab our frame bracket, it's going to be an L shape and then it will have two tabs coming down off the bottom. The flat section, that's got the two holes in it, need to go against the side of the frame and this flat piece is going to go to the bottom. So we'll just lift it up and then we'll take the existing hardware that we took out earlier, we're going to slide it through the frame, and then we're going to take the nuts and we're going to loosely secure these on the back side. Once you have everything loose, we're going to repeat that on the other side as well. You're going to want to come back with that same 21 millimeter socket and tighten up all the bolts.Now if we move underneath and we find our rear axle, if we look right at the bottom, we'll find our shock mount. Now we're going to need to loosen up and remove the bolt nut holding the shock on the lower shock mount here. So I'm going to grab an inch and 1/8 socket and a wrench to hold the nut and we're going to remove the bolt. Once you have the hardware removed, you do want to hold onto all the washers, the nuts, and the bolts. For now, we're just going to take the shock, we're going to pull it out and just slightly push it out of the way so we can get access to inside the shock mount here. And we're going to loosen up the other shock and take the hardware out as well.Now in our shock mount on the inside, you're going to notice that we got two holes. We're going to want to grab some hardware from our kit, so grab the 3/8 bolt and a flat washer and we're going to come from the back side and drop our bolt down through the hole and we're going to put that hex bolt on top. So you just want to work the bolt in so it's coming from the back going forward.Now for the bottom hole, we're going to use a little different style bolt. It's going to be kind of a cap screw style bolt and we're going to take another flat washer, except this one's going to have a notch cut out of it. See that straight line. You want to use these ones on the bottom, so we'll pass everything through in the same direction and that washer is just going to make sure that it's not going to stick out past the shock mount and then the rounded part of the bolt is going to make sure that our shock can fit back in there. There's a little bit of a tight fit, so you may have to work that bolt in there, but we're going to want to do that on both sides. So you just want to make sure both those bolts are sticking all the way out of the shock mount going towards the front of the motorhome. Now we'll move and we'll grab our sway bar and we can start getting all the bushings, everything in place on there.You want to grab your bushings and they include lubricant in our kit. You want to make sure you're using gloves because it does get pretty messy. But we just want to take a good amount and we want to put a good film on the inside of our bushing here and spread it all around. You can take the little bit of excess that you have and you can put it on the outside of the bushing if you want and what the grease here is going to do is it's just going to cut down a lot of that squeaking and noise that we'll get if water gets in between our bushing and the sway bar itself.They are a split bushing so we're just going to open them up, slide it around our bar and we can take our saddle clamp and we're going to slide it right over that bushing. We'll do the same thing for the other one.Now it would be a good idea to get an extra set of hands because our bar is going to be rather heavy, but our saddle clamps are going to line up with the two bolts that we have going through our lower shock mount and we're going to take a flat washer from the upper bolt, we'll slide it over and then we're going to secure it down with a locking nut. Now you want to get at least one nut on each side so the bar will hold itself up and then we can work on getting the lower hardware in.You can just lift your bar up, rotate your clamps until the bolts line up and then we can get our hardware loosely installed. Once we have that one loosely installed, again, the bar will hold itself and we can take our time putting the rest of the hardware in.On the lower bolt, we're going to take another one of those washers that has a cut in it that way it'll fit nice and flush against our bracket here. And then we'll have another locking nut that we're going to hold that lower bolt in place with. It's going to be the same combination of hardware on both sides.Now to tighten up our hardware, the bolts on top, I'm going to use a 9/16 wrench to hold the nut and a 9/16 socket to tighten up the bolt on the back side.Now for the bolt on the bottom, I'm going to use a 7/32 allens bit to hold the bolt head on the other side and then I'll tighten up the nut with a 9/16 socket. And we're going to repeat that for our other clamp as well. With both of our saddle clamps tight, you'll notice we're still able to move the sway bar and rotate it, which is a good thing. But we want to make sure that we torque this hardware down before we put our shocks back in place.We're going to bring our shock back in. We'll line it up with the eyelet on the bottom. You want to grab the shock bolt, make sure that washer's on the bolt, pass it through, it may take a little bit of tapping and a little bit of force to get it through so you can grab a wrench, a hammer, or whatever you have available. Just give it a little tap. Make sure it goes all the way through and we'll put that flat washer back on and put the nut back in place. We'll do that for both of our shocks. Then we'll come back with our wrench and socket that we used to remove it and we'll tighten everything back up.So we can grab our side brackets here. On the top, they're going to have a bushing and a sleeve that's going all the way through. And on the bottom, it will have a split opening with two holes in it. The bushing is going to fit right in between the frame bracket that we installed earlier. You're going to want to grab one of the long, large bolts out of our kit and coming from the outside, going in, we're going to pass our bolt through the bracket, through the bushing, and out the other side. Then we'll take a nylon lock nut, we're going to loosely install it on that bolt and then we're going to take our sway bar and we're going to rotate it up until it meets up with the other bracket here and we'll take another one of our long bolts. Again, coming from the outside, pass everything through and secure it down with a lock nut. We'll do the same thing on the other side.You're going to want to grab a 24 millimeter wrench and socket now and we're going to tighten up all the bolts holding our clamps in place. Now whenever you tighten these, you just want to tighten them up to where they make contact, but you don't want to crush that bushing or the sleeve inside. I'm going to come back with a torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You just want to make sure you go back and repeat that for any hardware that you have remaining.With everything torqued down, we can take our motorhome off the leveling jacks and we can hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Roadmaster rear anti-sway bar on our 2019 Ford F53 Chassis Motorhome.

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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
David F
Video by:
Zach D
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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