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Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar Installation - 2016 Coachmen Mirada Motorhome

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How to Install the Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar on a 2016 Coachmen Mirada Motorhome

Ryan: Hey everybody, Ryan here at Today on our 2016 Coachman Mirada motorhome, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster rear anti-sway bar.Owning a motorhome can be a very enjoyable experience because we get to go places we've never been before and get to spend time with our family while doing that. But on the same note, it can be stressful and even scary sometimes when we're operating our motorhome, because typically they're very large and there's a lot of surface area for the wind to catch. And when that happens, it can kind of push us around and make staying in our lane and in complete control a struggle at times. Especially when a semi driver passes us, the same thing can happen. So before we put any of our suspension components on, I'd like to take it out on the test course and see how it's going to handle.Now we're taking our motorhome along the slalom course.

As I get up to speed and I start to do a little evasive maneuvering, you can really feel how much body roll is going on. And almost feel like the motorhome wants to turn before we actually start to go in the direction that our wheel is pointed. Overall, it just feels very loose and like our motorhome isn't planted completely. Now as I driver over the bumps course, you can definitely feel every single one. They're definitely throwing me from side to side and I'm really just having to fight the steering wheel to try to keep it straight.Now that we have our components installed, I'm going to go ahead and hop in the RV, take it on the test course, and see how much our ride quality improved.

Now here when I get up to speed, I'm going to do a little evasive maneuvering, see if we can't tell a difference. I'll tell you what, pretty much all of our body roll feels like it's almost eliminated. You can really tell a big difference.Now we're going to take it over our bumps and see how it reacts. I can tell right off the bat, everything feels a whole lot tighter and our motorhome isn't wanting to sway. I can also tell I'm not nearly having to fight our steering wheel to keep it in a straight line.The cool thing about this kit is that our sway bar isn't just going to replace our factory one.

Factory one's going to remain in place. So not only is our new sway bar thicker in diameter and more beefy, it's going to work in conjunction with the front one to improve our ride quality that much more. Now in my opinion, since these motorhomes are so large and like to get blown around all over the road. This is how they should have came right out of the factory.Now our sway bar is going to be attached at two points on each side. One side is going to be attached to our axle and the other end is going to be attached to our frame.

So when you're going down the road and your frame and axle start to twist and turn, our sway bar is going to absorb that and make sure that you keep going straight. At those attachment points, we're going to have polyurethane bushings. Now these are a great improvement over the traditional rubber style bushings. They're going to last a lot longer and help give us more stability.Now many of our customers also purchase the front sway bar. And with that in place, along with the rear, they're really going to compliment each other and help improve your ride that much more. Now the sway bar is going to be an inch and 5/8" in diameter. It's going to be made from 4140 chrome moly steel, which that type of steel is considerably stronger than the typical steel used to make sway bars.To begin our installation, we're going to be working here at the back of the motorhome, right behind our back tires. Now you can do this process with the motorhome on the ground. However, I would recommend if you have leveling jacks to raise the back up maybe a few inches and that'll just make some of the bolts that we need to get to a little bit easier to reach.Now if you look inside of your wheel well, right above our leaf spring, we're going to see four bolts. Now those bolts are going to be holding on a cross remember that goes from each side of the frame. We're going to have to remove two of those bolts. And the ones that we're going to do are the bottoms here.Now to take our bolts off, I'm going to be using a 21 millimeter wrench. Now these bolts are on here pretty tight. So you may have to get a breaker bar, double up your wrench to give you enough leverage to get them off. Now there will be a nut on the back side of these bolts. But you're not going to have to worry about holding it because it'll have a tab on it and it'll actually act as a stopper. So when you're spinning this, it'll hit the frame and hold that nut in place. So it'll make it easier to remove these.So now we're going to take our in link mounting bracket and we're going to line these two holes up with the two holes in the frame of which we removed our bolts from. So I'm going to set that down in there right against the frame. Then we're going to use the hardware that we just removed to secure this bracket.Now once we have our hardware started and hand tight, go ahead and snug it back down. Now once you have your bolts snugged down, we can use a torque wrench to torque them down to the proper specification. Now you can find that torque setting in your instructions. Now once you have your hardware torqued down, you're going to repeat that exact same process over on the other side. Now I went ahead and did it and that's what it looks like.Now for our next step, we're going to come over to our leaf spring U bolts. And we're going to have to remove these four bolts that's holding our leaf spring to the axle. Now whenever you get these removed, what I like to do is completely remove these two. But leave these two on hand tight a couple of threads. That way everything stays together and what'll we'll do from there is put our bracket on one side and then remove these and put it back on this side.Now these are going to be really tight since I have such a high torque rating. So what I like to do to help me out is just soak all of them down with some penetrating oil and let them sit for a while. That way it'll help you get an edge when we're taking these off. Now to remove them, you're going to use an inch and 1/8" socket. Now with one side completely off and the other side just on hand tight, what we're going to do is install our axle bracket.Now how these are going to sit up here, they're going to go over our factory U bolts and we're going to secure it down with our factory hardware that we just removed. And we want to make sure that this angled side with the smaller holes, we want that to face the back of our motorhome and we want these smaller holes to face towards the center. So it's going to sit up here like this.Now kind of the reason I just removed these two and left these on, is to make this a little easier to get up here, because this is really heavy and so is this. So it's a little more manageable this way. So what I'm going to do is kind of push that up and then we'll take some of our factory hardware and just get it started a couple turns. It'll kind of hold that bracket up. You might have to play with the configuration a little bit, so tighten this up a little bit more. And I'll remove this one to see if that's a little easier. But more or less, as long as you try to work from one corner to the other, it'll make it a lot easier to get your bracketry up.Now we can tighten all these back down. Now the trick with these U bolts is that you want to make sure that you tighten down each nut evenly to help draw that U bolt back down straight. So what I like to do is maybe go seven or eight turns on each nut. And then go over to the other side. Now with all of our nuts tightened down, we're going to use a torque wrench to torque them down to the proper specification. You can find that torque spec in your instructions.Now after everything is torqued down, we're going to go ahead and repeat that same process on the other side. So now we can take our in links and just loosely put them into place. So we'll take the side with our bushing in it and slide it up into our bracket. Then we'll take one of the supplied bolts with the large one like this and put it in from the outside in. We want the head of the bolt to face the outside of the motorhome. Then on the other side, we'll take one of our supplied nylon lock nuts and thread it on. Now we don't have to crank these down just yet. So we'll just get it on hand tight as much as we can. I'm going to do the same thing to the other side.Now we can prepare our sway bar for installation. So what we're going to do is take our bushings and our saddle brackets, and just pop that saddle bracket off. And on the inside we're actually going to put some grease on that. So we'll take a little bit that came with our kit and just apply it liberally. We want to make sure that whole surface on the inside is covered. And this will help with any squeaking or any noises while you're going down the road. When you have it completely greased, what you're going to do is split it open and wrap it around the sway bar, kind of here close to the end. Then what I like to do too is just take a little bit of grease, you don't have to go crazy and I kind of like to just smear a little bit on the outside too. Then we will take our saddle bracket and just slide it over that bushing. Now we have one more for the other side, so I'm going to do that same process.So now we can take our sway bar and put our bushing ends into our in links. Now this can be a little heavy and awkward, so you might to get an extra set of hands to help you out. However, I got one side in already. So what you'll do is lift it up and take one of the large bolts, come with the kit. Once again, put it from the outside in, so the head of the bolt is going to face the outside of our motorhome. Then we're going to secure the other side with a nylon lock nut. And we'll just get that on hand tight for now.Now up here on our large bracket, we're going to slide our hardware through. And the holes that we're going to be using are this one and this one. So we're going to take one of our smaller bolts, put a flat washer on it. Drop it through the hole. We'll have the same setup for this hole. Now the other side is setup exactly the same. So I'll drop our hardware through over there now too.Now we can lift up on our sway bar. We're going to put our saddle brackets over those bolts. And to keep it in place, we're going to put on a flat washer and a nut. Just get them hand tight, that way the sway bar will support itself. Once you have this side hand tight, go ahead and do the same thing on our other side.At this point, we can tighten down all of our saddle bracket hardware. Now you don't have to really crank down on these things, you just want to get them fairly snug. And once you have both sides like that, you can use a torque wrench to torque them down to the proper specification. Now you can find that torque setting in your instructions.Now we can tighten down the bolts that are holding our in links to the sway bar. Now there isn't a torque setting for these. You just want to tighten them down until you see the bushing start to deform just a little bit. If you feel it kind of get a little tight, see that bushing kind of smash out a little bit and that's how we're going to do the remaining ones. And that'll do it for our look at and installation of the Roadmaster rear anti-sway bar on our 2016 Coachmen Mirada motorhome.

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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Kathleen M
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Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
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Chris R
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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