Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar Installation - 2004 Ford F-53

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How to Install the Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar on a 2004 Ford F-53


Speaker 1: Today, on our 2004 Ford F-53 motorhome, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster Anti-Sway Bar, Part #1139-144. Here's what our sway bar looks like fully installed. It's going to supplement our factory-existing sway bar, and give us a little more stability in the rear end. It's made of a solid steel construction, so there's no welds or any weak points for it to break. The bar itself is an inch and three-quarters thick. Our sway bar does feature polyurethane bushings, which are going to give it a little bit of cushion, so it's a little bit more comfortable.

We're going to benefit from these more than rubber, because they're going to handle a lot more stress. They're not going to deteriorate over time from any chemicals from our RV.The main reason we're going to benefit from this is, whether we're driving down the highway and a huge gust of wind comes by or another car drives by and the back end of our vehicle starts to veer left and right. This is going to keep our vehicle nice and stable and prevent any side to side movement from the axle. We took our motorhome on our test course after we got done installing the sway bar. I can immediately tell you there's a major difference in the back end.

It doesn't want to veer as much. Coming out of a turn, it definitely corrects itself and starts going straight with very little effort from myself. It just feels a lot more stable and a lot more safe when I'm going down the road.Our sway bar does come with all the necessary mounting hardware and brackets to get it installed. Now that we've gone over some of the features and benefits, let's show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation, we're going to come under our RV and find our rear axle.

Once we find our axle, we're going to need to find the point where our axle meets our Lee springs and bolts up. We should have four bolts on the bottom on each side. To remove these nuts, I'm going to be using a 1-1/8th inch socket. I do want to mention these are extremely tight and they are torqued down to extremely high value, so you may need to break them loose before you try to take them off, with an impact gun.Also, to help get them off, I did spray all my nuts down with some penetrating oil. That will definitely make a difference.

We're going to repeat that for the three remaining bolts on one side, and we're just going to do one side at a time. We're going to be taking this plate. This is actually going to mount underneath that plate right here. When we put it in, we want to line up the circular holes with the U-bolt on the front and the oblong holes with the U-bolt on the back, making sure that this tab here is facing forward and towards the center of our RV. If we can go ahead and loosely and carefully take off the remaining nuts that are holding that plate in place, you want to make sure to support it, because it is rather heavy. Then we can take our new plate, line up the holes in our bracket, and then we can loosely install the nuts back on there so we don't lose it.With that in place, we're going to go ahead and reinstall all the hardware we took off previously with the flat washer and the nut on the bottom. Using an 1-1/8th inch socket again, I'm going to run all my hardware down and get them nice and snug. I do want to mention, you want to alternate going with your U-bolts. That way, it doesn't bind up. Now that everything's in place, I'm going to come back and I'm going to torque all my bolts down to manufacturer's specification. Again, I'm using a 1-1/8th-inch socket. Now that we have this side all torqued down, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. We're going to remove the lock nuts, and as we come to our plate that we just installed, we're going to come to the forward-most hole. We're going to drop it down through. Now, we're going to come to the back side with another one of our bolts and remove the nut. We're going to skip one hole and go over to the forward rear hole, and drop our bolt down through.Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Now we're going to need to bring our attention to the sway bar. We're going to have a couple bushings in our kit that are split like this, and we're going to have some lubricant in our kit as well. We're going to need to take some of the lube. We're going to spray it on the inside of our bushing. Then we can apply it to our sway bar. We're just going to put a liberal amount on the inside. Once we have a decent amount on the inside of our bushing, we're going to open it up. We're going to slide it onto our sway bar. You can go ahead and open it up, slide it on, making sure that it will move freely. Then we can take our D-bracket, and we're going to slide it all over our bushing so it sits on there nicely like this. We'll still be able to move it and make any adjustments that we need. We're going to do the same thing for the remaining bushing and bracket.With an extra set of hands, we're going to put our sway bar in place. We're going to line up the D-ring brackets with the bolts that we dropped through our flat plate. Once we line up our bracket and the bolts fall through our holes, we're going to take a flat washer from our kit along with a nut, and secure it in place. Right now, I'm only going to get them hand-tight, just a little support for the sway bar, and it won't fall down, so I can get the rest of my hardware in place. I'm going to come back, using an 11/16ths socket and wrench. I'm going to tighten up my bolts. We'll repeat the same process on the other side.If we come to the end of our sway bar, we're going to need to find our shackle bracket, which is going to be the bracket that's shaped kind of like a Y. It's going to have a bushing at the bottom. We're going to take the ears or the Y section of it and we're going to go around the end of our sway bar. We're going to take our long, 3-1/2-inch bolts. We're going to line up the holes. We're going to feed it through. We're going to loosely install the nut, just so that it won't fall out for right now. We're going to do the same thing on the other side. Now we're going to need to find our shackle brackets. It's going to be in an L-shape with a couple tabs coming off of the bottom with some holes in it. We're going to take those tabs, and making sure that the flat piece is on the outside or facing away from the vehicle, we're going to slide it over the bushing on our shackle here.Then we're going to take another long, 1/2-inch bolt. We're going to line up, and we're going to feed it through our shackle and through the bushing, and then secure it loosely with a 1/2-inch lock nut. We're going to repeat this on the other side as well. Now that we have everything loosely attached, we're going to find the attachment point for our shackle bracket here. We're going to push it up against the frame like this. Then we're going to mark our holes. We're going to have to drill out two 1/2-inch holes in our frame. You just want to make sure that your shackle is straight up and down, and the bottom of the bracket is firmly pressed against the frame. You can just take a paint marker or whatever you have around that will make a mark on your frame so you can go ahead and drill. I'm going to start off drilling a pilot hole to make it a little bit easier to get through the frame. I'm going to start off with a small drill bit and then come back and finalize it to a 1/2-inch hole.Now that my pilot holes are drilled, I'm going to move to the inside of my frame, so it's a little bit easier to access. We'll be using a step drill bit to enlarge the holes to 1/2-inch. With our holes drilled, we're going to go ahead and take the 1/2-inch bolts they supply in our kit. Coming from the back side, I'm going to put one in place just to hold up my sway bar, just so I don't have to worry about the shackle falling down. Now that we have that one bolt in place, we can go to the other side and mark our holes and drill those out as well. Now that the other side's drilled, we're going to get ready to put our hardware in permanently. Before we put our bolt through, this one, if you remember, is just there to hold up our bracket. We're going to put a flat washer over our half-inch bolt. Then we can line up the holes on our bracket and we can feed it through. Then we're going to follow it by another flat washer, then finally, a 1/2-inch lock nut.We're going to repeat that process for all the remaining holes and hardware that we need to put in. Now, using a 3/4-inch socket and wrench, I'm going to tighten up the hardware holding my bracket to the frame. We'll repeat the same thing on the other side. Now, using a 15/16ths socket and wrench, I'm going to go ahead and tighten up the brackets holding my sway bar in place. I'm going to come back. I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. Then we're going to repeat that for all the rest of the remaining hardware. That'll finish up our look at the Roadmaster Rear Anti-Sway Bar, Part #1139-144 on our 2004 Ford F-53 motorhome.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Video by:
Zach D
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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