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Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Hi there, Jeep owners. Today, on you're 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmaster's diode wiring kit. You can get this kit in a lot of different configurations, depending on what kind of tow bar you've got, and which one's gonna work best with it. There's five main components you're gonna need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home. You're going to need your tow bar, your base plate, your diode wiring, your safety cables, and your supplemental braking system. We're gonna be showing off the one today that just uses a four-pole flat connector, but we're actually gonna be cutting those ends off and wiring it to a six-way.

That's 'cause our tow bar came with a six-way connector. But you can get it in coiled cable, hybrid coiled, straight cable, so there's a lot of options, about four or five different options with a couple of different components. But all of 'em are gonna install exactly the same so regardless which kit you get, you can follow along with us. Diode wiring kit from Roadmaster is gonna be one of the easiest ways to get all the lighting signals from your motor home transferred to the back of your vehicle here. So that way, all the signals on your motor home will be mimicked here at the back.

This will ensure that people behind you will know your intentions when going down the road, and it'll also keep you DOT compliant in most states. The diodes will interrupt the wiring that goes from our vehicle to the light here at the back. And we're gonna be interrupting both the tail and turn and stop signals. So that way, we can use our motor home to send those signals directly to the light. So that way, the same light here is operating as if we we're driving around normally.

The diodes act as a one-way check file, though, so when we place those in line on our factory wiring here, it allows the factory circuits to still function normally, lighting up the lights, and it allows our motor home signals to also go and function to light our lights, but it cannot backfeed past the diode. So that way, our signals from our motor home can't go back and damage any of the computer systems here on our vehicle. It keeps everything nice and protected and gives you a nice operation and look here at the back. There are some other options out there for lighting on the back of your flat tow setup such as bulb and socket where you would physically drill a hole in your assembly here to add another bulb. I don't particularly like that kinda one 'cause a lot of your modern vehicles don't have room inside for an incandescent bulb.

And oftentimes, you do present the situation where you can have a leak inside your taillight assembly, which does fail safety inspection in some states, can cause a lot of issues with your lighting functionality as well. So the other option you would have would be a magnetic lights option where you can take these lights out that have magnetic bases, set 'em up on the roof or on the side, wherever you have a magnetic surface you can attach to, then you run your wire to the front. Those are great if you got a couple different vehicles you do or maybe you move things for a living, like flat tow stuff for a living and transfer stuff. That's a great option. But if you're gonna be using the same vehicle over and over, every time you wanna flat tow, you gotta get those things out, set 'em up on the roof, and run the wires to the front. It becomes quite the hassle. So with the diode wiring kit, we take a little bit more time on our initial installation to get it installed, but then our vehicle just looks factory and has a connector at the front that we're able to plug into and make all of our signals function with, you know, drastically reducing our setup time for our motor home 'cause all we gotta do is plug in a cable. So if you wanna follow along with us, we'll show you how to get those installed now. This is gonna include both the left, right, tail, and stop signals. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle. We're gonna remove both the driver and passenger side taillight assemblies. To do this, we're gonna remove the cover that's located here at the back. So our taillight right on the inside, you'll see right here on top, there's a small cover. Just use your flat-bladed screwdriver to pop that up. Everything that we're doing on this side's gonna be the same over on the other side. We'll now grab a 10-millimeter socket, and there's a plastic nut down in there. It's actually a bolt, a plastic bolt. Just go ahead and zip that right out of there. And that'll just pull right out. Our assembly now should slide right outta here. It does get a little stiff right here, so sometimes you gotta tap it a little. There we go. We're kinda rocking it a little bit. Those little pegs there, they get stuck in there. So just kinda gently rock it, kinda tap on it a little, nothing real hard, and you should be able to get it to release. So now that we've got that removed, we can go ahead and slide out our release tab. Disconnect our connectors here. We actually wanna go take this little tab that you see there out real quick as well. A trim panel tool works really well, but you could also use a flat-bladed screwdriver or a pair of pliers to pop that out of there. We can disconnect it. Pretty stiff on there. All right, these Jeeps, they get out in dirty environments and dirt gets inside these connectors and it makes 'em really difficult to remove. So now that we've got that removed, we're gonna remove the other side the same way. So we've got both of our taillight assemblies removed now. The covering that you see over the wire there, we're gonna need to get some of that back off of there. So that way, we can access the wiring. So we're gonna take our razor knife here and very carefully trim this back. And it's like a fabric adhesive tape. So this stuff is pretty, pretty good on here. It's actually really difficult to remove this stuff, so just take your time and go slow. Sometimes, you get lucky and after you go so far, actually, you can peel it. But a lot of times, yeah, we're not gonna be able to peel it. A lot of times, you can't peel it off of there. You just gotta take your time and just slowly work it off of there. So we're gonna do this till we get back to maybe about here, so we got enough wire to work with to install our diodes. And that actually will probably be good enough right there. It'll give us plenty of length to access 'em. We're now gonna take the wiring that comes in our kit. You can go ahead and cut off the four-pole, and you're not gonna need it back here. So now that we've got the end cut off there, we're gonna feed it up behind our assembly here. If you look down in the hole, you can see straight down through to the ground. So you're just passing it through that opening. Let's see, there it is. And we're just gonna pull it through. You can pull yourself some excess through there. That way, it can't fall back down when you're trying to work with it and stuff. So now that we've got it pulled up here, we're gonna snip back each one of our wires here. Just sniping between each of 'em. This will separate them from one another. And once you've kinda cut the ends there, they actually peel right off on one another, kinda like a piece of cheese or whatever. All right, so now we got it pulled back, the green wire we're actually gonna route to the other side. So we're gonna pull back quite a bit more on that one 'cause that one's gonna drop back down. We'll go ahead and drop it back down. See you green. All right, so that guy can hang out down there. Make sure we get it pulled all the way down. But over here on our driver's side, we are concerned with the yellow, the brown, and the white. So we're gonna strip back each and every one of these. And we're gonna be attaching the spade terminals that come in our kit to it. So let's get 'em stripped back. Now, the white wire's actually are ground wire, but you can get ground at any point here in your flat tow setup. So I typically use some of the white wire here that's in the kit as a jumper lead 'cause the brown wire that we're stripping back right now is for the taillight signal. Now, we want our taillights to work on both the driver and the passenger side, so we need to get this brown wire also over to the other side. So what we'll do is we'll use a small portion of the white wire that we've got in our kit here as a jumper to do so. So after I got 'em stripped back, I grabbed the diodes out of the little packaging they we're in. You're gonna get a bunch of these blue spade terminals, and you're only gonna get one of the yellow. The yellow is special because it's the one we're gonna use to attach the white and brown wire together to make our jumper. It's got a larger opening than the blue ones, so it'll accept two wires. So we're gonna take our white and our brown here, twist those two together, slide the yellow spade terminal on there, and crimp it down. We'll then take our yellow wire here. This is gonna get a blues spade terminal, and all the rest of our circuits that we're gonna be messing with back here, they're all gonna be getting blue spade terminals from here. The one yellow we've already used. Just crimp that right on there. That's our stop turn for the driver's side over here. Now, the wiring that we've got exposed here for peeling off some of the sheathing, you'll wanna peel those back. And what you're looking for is the yellow wire and the white wire with the gray stripe. And there are actually two white wires with gray stripes on it in here. This one here's also white with a gray stripe, so is this one. If you look at 'em, though, one is a thicker diameter than the other, so the skinny guy we're gonna get rid of. We just want the two thicker wires. So now that we've got both of those, I'm gonna cut these in half, strip each end back, and then each one of these ends will get a blue spade terminal. And we're not gonna twist any of these wires together and, yeah, that we're just twisting the end of it. And then, putting the blue spade terminal on it. And our other sides are gonna get the spade terminals as well here. So the reason we cut the yellow and the white and the gray is because the yellow wire on our Jeep here is the stop, turn signal for the driver's side here. And the larger white with gray is our taillight signal. So we want to illuminate the same lights when we're plugged into our motor home. So that way, all the lights work just like they would be if we we're driving our Jeep down the road. All right, this is our last one here. Get this one on there. And now, we can plug our diodes in. The connector side here, we've got the two circuits near the connector. Those are always gonna be on the side labeled out 'cause we're going out to our lights to light the bulb. So we'll plug that one into there. We're gonna plug the out into the other connector. And we're just gonna reconnect our wires. So we got the yellow on the out on this side. That means the yellow here and our other factory yellow is just gonna plug to the end on the other side. Same with this guy here. We're just gonna be plugging this to the end on the other side. Now, our wires that we routed up here, we can plug in as well. So we're gonna take the yellow wire, which is driver's side stop, turn, same as the yellow here on our Jeep, so it's nice that the colors match. Plug that wire in. And then, our brown and our white as the taillight circuits, those are gonna plug in over there as well. And now, for our diodes, you can stick these kinda to some wall or surface, but due to the length of wire and stuff, there's really not a good location. So I typically just take these, stick them together, and then we can wrap a cable tie around this to hold kind of the whole assembly together. Just kinda poke your wires into like a little nook there, cable tie around it. And then, I also like to put another cable tie further up to the wire here to hold our yellow round, you know, the harness that we routed. It kinda holds it back out of the way and also ensures it's not like getting tugged or pulling on our wires there. Kinda gives it a nice relief. You can trim off the excess. And then, we need to route our wires over to the passenger side so we can do basically the same thing. So now, when I go to route my wires over, we know the green wire has to go over to that side. But we had attached the white wire and the brown wire together so we can get our taillight signals jumpered over. So we've got the green wire that we had stripped back here, rest of our wire kinda just hanging down there. I like to take the green, I'll hold it over, and I'll kinda hold it up. Looks like we're gonna be a little bit too short to make it in there, so we'll just peel back a little more green, hold it over, hold it up. A little too short still, just a little bit more green. And that should be plenty of green wire to make it over to the other side behind our assembly. But we got our white wire that we need to get over there as well, and we only need the portion of the white that's connected there to jump over to there. So what I'll do, so I'll take my green wire here, and I'm just gonna fold it back down along my harness. Where the green wire ends, I will cut my white wire. And then, if you cut it, a lot of times you just kinda pinch it like that, you can just peel it off. There we go. So now, we're gonna take the white wire there where we cut it and we're gonna peel it back until it meets our green wire up here. And now, we have an equal length of green and white wire to route over to this side and up behind the taillight assembly. So I'm gonna go ahead and route my wires now. Then, I will go ahead and make the connections over here, and then I'll show you. It's gonna be basically the same. The only thing that's gonna be different is the wire color's gonna be slightly different on this side. So we're now over on the passenger side, we got our green and our white wire routed up. It's the same thing over here. You'll wanna strip back that sheathing. It's gonna be the same pin numbers, but the wire colors do change. For the stop, turn circuit, you're gonna want the green wire on your factory harness there. Cut that one. And for the taillight circuit, you want the white wire with the orange stripe. And just like the other side, there are two white wires with orange stripes. You can see there's another one. It's kind of a little bit more of a beige color on this side, but it is a thinner diameter. You want the thicker diameter one just like over on the driver's side, so you can cut that one as well. You can strip 'em back, they all get blues spade terminals on this side, and they plug in the same way. Connector side gets the out, and then the ins, you get your wiring connected back in and the wires we routed over. Then, we can reinstall our taillight assemblies here once we get all that hooked up. All right, so we're now underneath the vehicle. I'm gonna show you the way I routed all of the wiring. So our wires, they come down, of course, underneath our driver's side taillight. You can kinda see 'em here in this opening. We routed our white and green wire across. We could make our connections over here to the passenger side. So I did take out these two nuts. There's one here and here. Using an 11-millimeter socket, you can remove those nuts. And then, you can put the wiring on top of that heat shield to protect it from the exhaust there. So we did go back over to the driver's side here, and you can see the green, white, I mean, sorry, the green, brown, and yellow wire where it's going forward. Those will continue going forward. So we stay up. We used the cable ties that come with it to connect it to the factory wiring, make sure we go up above our suspension. We'd use another cable tie up there to attach it. And this is where our white wire kinda ended up. So we can make our ground connection right here. And we're probably gonna go right into this paneling here. It's a really good spot to go. Or you could even go to this paneling here because we can tell that this is a channel, so if we drill into it, it's not gonna expose the interior of the cab. So we're gonna go ahead and get our ring terminal attached. Just take your white wire, strip it back. You'll have a small ring terminal that comes included in your kit. We'll attach that to our white wire. And then, we're gonna use the self-tapping screw that comes included in the kit to run it right into the paneling here. So we're just gonna grab that. I'm thinking sideways will probably be the easiest way for us to go in. And then, we're just gonna run it right on in. We'll use an eight-millimeter socket to do so. Nice and secure. Everything looks good there. So we're gonna continue then routing the rest of our wiring moving forward. So we just continue on. We actually poke it right into the frame. We're actually gonna stay inside the frame all the way forward. You can kinda see in this little opening there, you can see a little bit of it, all the way up to the front. So just kinda keep poking in the frame. Any of these holes that you see here on the inside or on the outside of the frame, you can use to kinda route the wire from hole to hole to hole until you get it all the way down. And you can see there on the outside where it comes out, we go on top of the frame here. And then, on top of the frame, you're gonna have a wiring harness right here that we can attach it to. We just follow that harness going forward on top of the frame until it comes out here at the front. So it's kinda hard to see on top of the frame, but we do stay on top until it comes out here next to where our radiator and condenser and stuff is. From there, we just use a cable tie to attach to the bracket that's located there and we bring it over to the center. I've already went ahead and drilled up a hole, and we're just gonna bring our wiring through that hole where we're gonna mount our connector. Now, our six-way connector here that we're gonna mount actually does not come with the kit that we're installing, but you can buy a kit that has a six-way connector with it. The reason why the customer didn't purchase the kit that has it is because his tow bar that he bought came with one of these connectors. So to save a little bit of money, not buying redundant parts, he bought a kit without the connector. But we'll show you how to hook it up because pretty much every time you're gonna run this up here, you're gonna hook to one of these so we might as well. I did use a 1 3/8-inch hole saw to cut out the hole, so my switch will fit in there. And I just kinda held it up there. And then, I used a quarter inch drill bit to drill out a couple of holes there so i can mount the hardware to it. but we don't wanna mount it up just yet, we gotta wire it up to our switch here. So we're gonna grab our wiring and a few other things you're gonna need here. I'd recommend a small Phillips screwdriver. You need your cutters here so we can trim it to length. You're gonna need your strippers and some dielectric grease as well as electrical grease. So first thing we're gonna do is get rid of some of this excess. We have a ton of excess that we don't need here. I always like to leave some to make it easier to work with, so we'll probably leave about that amount out there. So we'll trim this off here. And then, you got some excess that you could use for the rest of your flat tow setup or other things. Now that you got that trimmed, take the rubber boot. This just comes with the six-way. It'll be on the back there. We wanna slide it on now, though, 'cause it'll be difficult to put on later. And I'm actually just gonna poke it right up behind the paneling there. That way, it's out of our way. We can then take each one of these and just like in the back, snip in between 'em so we can separate each one. And now that we've got each one separated, we're gonna strip each one. And with these ones, you do wanna keep it a little bit shorter in the wires in the back. All right, we got each one stripped. We're now gonna move on to our switch. I'll just bring it a little closer so we can more easily see the backside of it because there are labels on the backside. And I like to start with the one labeled GD. That's our ground. That's the white wire that we routed. So go ahead and unscrew that one so we can make our connection. And I'm just gonna rotate around. Next is LT, which is left turn. That's going to be our yellow wire. Next is RT, that's right turn, green wire. Next is S. We're gonna skip that one. That's for other accessories you may wanna add. Next is TM. That is for our taillight circuit. That's the brown wire we routed. And then, the center one we're not gonna use either. That's often used for like a charge line kit. So we'll go ahead and hook these up. Each one of the wires just pokes in, and then we just put the screw down. Make sure you're screw's screwing into the wires, not the sheathing. So now, we're just gonna poke 'em in and tighten them down, making sure to tighten on the wire, not the sheathing. And we're just going right around, doing it in the order that we just talked about there. So ground first, white next is left turn, we know that's yellow. If you twist the ends of your wires, they slide in a little bit easier. And after that, it's gonna be our green. And lastly, our brown. All right, all of our wires are now connected. We're gonna take some dielectric grease and put a thorough coating on the back side of it here. I'm also gonna push that rubber grommet back through right there. So we're gonna heavily coat this to protect it from moisture. We can then bring our boot down, slide it over. And then, I like to use electrical tape just to kinda seal it up, kinda help hold that dust boot in place there so it doesn't slide back and all our grease kinda falls out of there, anything like that. This helps trap all that grease inside of there. And I'm gonna do this to both ends of our dust boot. You can then just push your connector on through and secure it with the hardware. The hardware does not come included with it. The hardware typically comes included with your base plate, and that's what we're gonna be using to attach ours. So now, we've gone ahead and plugged in our tester box to our connector here at the front that's gonna simulate a motor home. If you're doing this at home, you can plug into your motor home. You wanna make sure that you have all your turn signals and everything operating properly. So you wanna make sure you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps. And with all of our lighting signals working properly, we're ready to hook up to our motor home and hit the road. And that completes our installation of Roadmaster's diode wiring on our 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..

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