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Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche

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How to Install the Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit on a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche

Today in our 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche we're going to be showing you how to install the Raodmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit for tote vehicles. Part number is RM-152. Here's what our wire is going to look like in the front of the vehicle. Now, this is going to give us the solution for being able to control the lights in our car from our motor home. This gives us our running light circuit, it's going to give us our left turning brake circuit, and our right turning brake circuit. So, as we're pulling our Avalanche as we operate the controls in our motor home, they're going to transfer through and we'll see them on the back of the truck. What this is going allow us to do is get a signal coming in from the motor home through our diode and a signal coming in from our truck to go through our diode.

Now, the great thing about the diode, this is going to prevent any back feedings, so as our signals are coming in from the vehicle, they cannot run back our other wire. The same thing can be said as they're coming from our coach, they're not going to cycle back in and back feed into the vehicles lining harness. This is going to give us a great solution to isolate the motor home from the vehicle, but to keep everything working properly. Here's our installation bracket that we've put on, and the wiring that we ran, when we had the bumper and the grill removed from the truck. Now, we used two long brackets, which are part number 18136, and those just got attached with a half inch bolt to a flanch sticking off the back of the bumper. To that, we added on a bracket, this is from Roadmaster, it's designed to work with their four bolt round plug, that part number is RM-910030-5, and this is part number RM-910030-1, this is going to be a standard four bolt round. Basically, we'll be attaching this to this, and we do want to get these wires separated, here, see they're just going to pull apart, and let's strip the end of each one of those backs, slightly.

Right on top of our plug, there's going to be a small Phillips screw, we want to get that removed, our center core, here, it's going to pop out. Now, these will feed through the back of our plug. Now, only one side of this is going to have that little nut molded in. That needs to go up, and we rotate that over, see our four connection points, here, that we'll be making. Those little screws are designed to thread down in there and make good contact with that wire. We want to get all four of these loosened up.

Now, we're going to connect our wire into the corresponding location on the backside of our plug. We are going to do the white in the lower left. The brown is going to be in the lower right. Yellow, is going to go to the upper left and green is going to go to the upper right. Just place in, like that, and then the screws tighten down to engage that wire and hold it in place.

You don't really need to over tighten them or anything, but you will want them to be secure. Once we've got our system tested out, we are going to be filling the backside of that plug with black sealant, just prevents any water from getting in there, that eventually causes corrosion and leads to our signals malfunctioning. Now, we just need to slide our plug housing down, and we'll push it in, so that screw hole lines up with the nut bolted in, and we'll thread that in. Once we get out of the engine bay, there, I like to run along with the frame rail, it will just keep everything up and out of the way. We won't have to worry about it ever kind of hanging down, or anything like that. Of course, anywhere you get the opportunity, you want to throw a zip tie on it, give it some additional support. Once, we get back to this area, I'm going to separate the white wire, you can do that just by pulling it off there. We're actually going to be grounding it out, here, to our frame. The extra wire that we cut off, hang on to that, we're probably going to need it to create the jumper in the rear. We're going to strip that back, and we're going to add on the provided blue ring terminal. Now, the provided self tampering screws is what we'll use to secure that, right off to our frame, there. You just want to make sure you can wiggle on that without it moving, and that will be nice secure. Now, we'll continue running our three wires on back. All right, once we get back to the rear of the vehicle, here, it's time to separate the green wire from the yellow and brown. Pigtail, here on the rear, we're going to follow along with that, we're going to send this wire right up through that gap, right there, that will allow us to get up there behind our taillight housing we're we'll be putting in those diodes, just tuck that wire up in there. Once we have that taillight out, we should be able to reach down there and grab it. All right. Now, we're going to take out the two Phillip screws, I have one in the top and one in the bottom that hold our taillight lens in place, here. As you can see, we can gently pull on that and the yellow and brown wire waiting for us. Now, we know this is going to be the reverse light, because it's got the clear signal in it, but we need to determine now is, which one of these wires on the backside are for our running lights and which ones are going to be for the turn signal. All right. We'll have someone in the vehicle give us a hand, here, and we'll have them turn on our running lights. That's great. It looks like we've got that on the low side and on the high side. Let's check our left blinker, that's going to be down here, and that off, and our breaks, that's going to be our upper one, so we're going to use the lower one, here, for our running light signal, we'll use the upper one for our blinker and break. We should be in good shape, there. Let's check for the running light on the bottom one, here, just using a test light, we'll have that ground out, and turn those running lights off, please, and back on. All right. That will be that metal wire right here, and it looks like that used to be brown. Now, the brakes, please. We're going to be checking for that signal and that bolt. Start with our blue wire, and off, back on. All right. Blue wire for our brakes. That will take care of the driver side. Remove the housing just by twisting our plugs out. It'll have that little tab right there, you press that tab down, and they're going to rotate right out of there. We'll get this set aside, and we'll run the same test on our passenger side to determine, which wires we need to use there. All right. You see we separated our wires out, here. I've also zip tied them off, right here, to the wiring that comes up, just so that way when we have everything installed it will kind of be as one unit, there, and we won't have to worry about it hanging down below the vehicle. Let's trim off our excess, here, it's okay to leave plenty of slack. Our diodes are going to be mounted kind of over in this area, so you want to be sure you have at least enough to get there. Now, we're using the lower light for our running light signal, and remember when we found that, that was the brownish wire. As you do this, just cut the installation around it, you don't want to cut the wiring. We're going to snip that off about right here. We'll strip back both ends of that, as well as the brown wire we just brought up. Now, three of our diodes are going to have three blue connectors on it, one of them has the yellow connector, there, that's what we're going to use to create our jumper to go over to the other side, remember that white wire we cut off earlier, we're going to use that to make that connection. We're just going to stick that down in there, strip the end of this back. The brown wire that comes from the front of the vehicle, and our white wire, we'll twist those together, and we'll add on that one yellow spade connector, just like that. You want to give them a good pull, make sure they're connected properly, and we'll take our two blue ones, there, and we're going to connect those onto our factory wires. Now, we'll take the running light signal in from the front, which is our brown wire, that needs to go in one of our inputs. The other wire coming from our factory harness will go into the other input, and then the connection that runs out to the light, that's going to go on our output side. Now, for our upper light we're going to be using, for our turn and brake, that's going to be the blue wire, and we're going to repeat the exact same process that we just used for our brown wire, with the exception of just using three of the blue spade connectors, this time. Now, just like we did on the other diode we want the inputs from the car and the motor home to go on in, and the out, that's going to go to our bulb. All right. Now, we're going to get this mounting area cleans off, here, with some rubbing alcohol, we got to make sure we get really good adhesion as we put our diodes into place. All right. Now, to get these back in place, we want to rotate them until they click in, and then spin them, just like that. It looks like right up there is going to be the location for the first diode, and it's going to be pretty tight in here. To get in and service this, you can see how this is going to tilt out pretty good, but once we stick this off to that panel, you'll have to pull the wire out of the top, to lean your light out. There's really not any other way to get around that. All right. Now, we're going to run our green wire, which is our right turn and brake signal, and our white wire, which is our running light signal, remember we jumped that off. If you we're going to keep everything color correct this would be an extension of the brown wire. Now, to test out our system, we're going to want to connect to our motor home, or trailer tester, and run through all the lights. Let's start with our running lights. Now, we'll check our left blinker, our right blinker, and our brakes. All right everything there is working fine. There's going to be one last test that we need to run, and that will be to verify whether or not we're going to need to put in a brake light relay. All right. Now, we're going to operate the left blinker to run this test, and have someone in the car press on the brake. You see how that has stopped flashing, that indicates to us that we do need a brake light relay. By putting a silicone in here, we're just going to prevent any moisture, at least to help prevent any moisture from getting in, here. Now, we'll take our provided hardware, I'm going to place that right through our bracket, there, and we'll secure it with that nylon locknut that goes on the backside, tighten it down, we'll need a Phillips screwdriver, and also a 10 millimeter wrench to get into our nut on the backside. Now, all we have to do is plug in our four hole round wiring, that door to come down, hold it in place, and now anytime we use our running lights, our brakes, or our blinker in our motor home, we're also going to see them on the back of the Avalanche. That's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit. Part number, RM-152, on our 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche.

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