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Roadmaster EZ5 Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ5 Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Speaker 1: Today on this 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster EZ5 Baseplate Kit with Removable Arms, part number RM-521440-5. Here's what your baseplate looks like installed. What many of our customers really like about this baseplate is when they're not towing their vehicle and they have the removable arms removed from the baseplate, it provides a very clean look on the front of their Grand Cherokee. Hardly anything sticks out from it at all. Our safety cable attachment point here doesn't even stick out past our license plate bracket on the front of it so it doesn't add any length to the vehicle.The baseplate itself is very versatile. With it's removable arms, you can quickly and easily attach to your motorhome using virtually any Roadmaster tow bar on the market.

As you notice, when you insert it you have this tab at a horizontal angle, stick it in, push, rotate it 90 degrees and then our spring-loaded pin will lock it into place so it can't rotate out.Another great feature about this baseplate is that it does come with an attachment point for any electrical connection that we may have. So if you want to have a towed vehicle lighting system we can attach that to these prongs here and if we're using a supplemental braking system, which I highly recommend to do, we have several options available on our website, you can mount your break away switch as well.For this particular flat tow set up, we used a Roadmaster EZ5 Baseplate Kit; a Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain, Non-Binding Tow Bar; the Roadmaster Diode 7-Wire to 6-Wire Flexo-Coil Wiring Kit for our lighting system; and, for our supplemental braking system, we used the SMI Air Force One for Motor Homes with Air Brakes. Now depending upon your application, you may or may not need to get a high low adapter to ensure that your tow bar's at the proper height between the motor home and your towed vehicle.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. To begin our install, we have our hood open. Now we need to remove two clips on the top of our fascia where it connects to our core support.

We'll have one on each corner of it, one right here and the other right here. The way these work is that there's a center section here that you can get underneath with a flathead screwdriver or a trim panel tool. Pop it up and you can go underneath the entire clip and the entire clip will pop out. Now, on each side in our wheel well we'll find two plastic rivets that attach our wheel molding to our fascia. We need to drill out these rivets, so we'll take a small drill bit and go through the center.

With them drilled out, we can now take our trim panel tool and pull out the rivet. We'll do the same process on the other side.With our rivets drilled out we can now remove this 10-millimeter bolt right here. We'll grab our wheel molding here and pull out towards us, just like that. You may have a clip that gets stuck there. Not a problem.

We'll just take a trim panel tool, get behind the clip, remove it, and we'll slide it back inside our molding into the spot where it clips into.Now we're underneath looking up at our wheel well. It's the same on both sides, so just keep in mind everything we do on one side we'll do on the other. We have a plastic fastener here, we'll twist this, pull it out, and then there's a 10-millimeter bolt right here that we'll remove as well. Now underneath where our fascia meets our core support and our splash shield we'll have three 10-millimeter bolts, three twist-style plastic fasteners, and one push plastic fastener to remove. Okay now underneath where our splash shield's bolted to our sub frame, we'll have two 13-millimeter bolts to remove. Pull it down and towards the back and we can set it aside.With an extra set of hands we'll remove our fascia. We'll start by coming over to our corner here where it meets our fender, and pulling back away from the vehicle. As we get to near where our headlight is, we'll pull up where it meets the core support. Once we have it unclipped, we pull it back away from the vehicle, where we'll see our fog lights. Your vehicle may not be equipped with these, but if they are just pull on these two tabs here and wiggle the connector down away from the bulb. With everything disconnected, we'll now set it aside where it won't get damaged.If your vehicle has an auxiliary transmission cooler like this one does, you'll need to take one of the supplied zip ties and connect these two hoses together for gaining clearance. We'll go to the left side of this crimp right here and we will pull the hoses as tight together as possible. Now we'll take our two remaining zip ties, combine them together to make it extra long, we'll go around this bracket on the backside between the two hoses, we'll go through our zip tie here, they go together, and then we'll wrap it together and we'll pull tight.Since our vehicle's not equipped with tow hooks, this install is a little bit different than if yours has tow hooks on it. If you have those tow hooks, you need to follow the instructions for that side. But right now, we need to remove this 13-millimeter bolt right here. It's right above where our bottom of our core support meets the vertical part of it. Now I'll point out two of our attachment points. We have a weld nut here at the front of our frame rail. And then one further to the back. These are where your factory tow hooks would bolt if your vehicle's equipped with them. We'll take the 13-millimeter bolt that we just removed and we'll place some red Loctite on it. We'll be using red Loctite on all of our bolts that we use for our baseplate. We'll take our baseplate, stick it in position, and we'll loosely thread in that 13-millimeter bolt for the time being to help support our baseplate.Where our baseplate's going to bolt to the factory weld nuts in the frame, we'll use these long metric bolts with a lock washer and a flat washer. Place our Loctite on. Put the baseplate in position and then we'll thread it in place. We'll go ahead and snug down all of our hardware now. Now we'll take our wall pipe spacer, we'll slide it between our bumper beam and our baseplate, and this is on the outside edge of it. We'll take one of our half inch bolts, our lock washer, one of our smaller half inch washers, put some Loctite on it, we'll go up through our baseplate. Inside our bumper beam we'll place on one of our larger diameter half inch washers, and we'll thread on a nut. We'll leave this loose for the time being.Now we'll go ahead and snug that bolt down. You'll need to use wrenches to do this because you can't get in there with a socket. Okay, now, the inside edge of our baseplate for the inner hole here, we need to drill center through that up into our bumper beam. We'll start by making a small pilot hole and then we'll enlarge that hole to the appropriate size indicated in the instructions. With our hole drilled now to the final size, we'll now slide our pipe spacer between our baseplate and the bumper beam. Use a screwdriver to line it up. Make sure our bolt goes through the spacer smoothly, and it does.Now we'll take our crosspiece here that our wiring harness can attach to. If you're not installing a towed vehicle lighting system or break away switch or anything, you don't need this piece. But since we are, we're going to be using it. We'll take one of our half inch bolts with a lock washer and a flat washer on it, go through that crosspiece, our baseplate, our pipe spacer and in to the bumper beam. You can see where our bolt comes through our bumper beam now. We'll take our handle nut, we'll still that into our bumper beam, and we'll thread our bolt into that. Now we'll go ahead and tighten that bolt up. We'll repeat the same process for our passenger side. Now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions.Now while we have our fascia off, this is a good opportunity to mount any break away switches we may have for our supplemental braking system, and run any wiring we have for a towed vehicle lighting system. We attached our break away switch to our mounting bracket using the provided hardware with our break away switch, to the mounting hole. And our four pole flat wiring we ran inside the provided wire loom with it, and both of these wires will run behind the fascia and they'll come up through a gap here and then go into our engine compartment where they come up right in this area here.Now we're looking at the inside edge of our fascia. If our vehicle has tow hook, we don't need to worry about this part. But, if you don't, you'll have a cover where your factory tow hooks would go. We can pop these out simply by pressing in on these tabs and they'll pop out the front. We'll do the same on both sides. Now we have our fascia back with an extra set of hands and we will make sure we plug back in our fog lights and we'll reinstall the fascia. With our fascia snapped back into place now, you'll notice that we need to do a little trimming in our grille section here for our break away switch and our electrical connector. We'll just use a pair of side cutters to remove the excess plastic that will interfere with those. Here's what it looks like trimmed out. We'll have plenty of access for our break away switch to work properly and our electrical connector that we'll be using will fit in here nicely and we'll be able to open our door fully without any interference.Now since we drilled out our factory rivets, our baseplate comes with replacement rivets. The way these work, you just insert them in the hole and you'll use a plastic rivet gun which you can find at most autobody supply shops, you stick that over the end of it and then you just work the rivet off. That's riveted in place.That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster EZ5 Baseplate Kit with Removable Arms, part number RM-521440-5, on this 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

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Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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