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Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit Installation - 2013 Smart fortwo

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit on a 2013 Smart fortwo


Speaker 1: Today on our 2013 Smart fortwo, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate Kit with removable arms, part number 52285-1. Here's what our base plate looks like fully installed. This is going to allow us to flat tow our Smart car behind our motor home and safely get down the road. Now, it's going to feature what they call an EZ Twist lock. We'll just simply twist it and we'll be able to remove it and then if we we're to decide to remove our safety chain loop, there's not going to be that much there and the hidden bracket is going to be much more appealing for the looks of our car.Then to install it, simply put it in, twist it, and you're ready to go. There's no pins or any locks that are needed.

Our base plate is compatible with quick disconnect and all Roadmaster tow bars. Now our base plate features an all steel construction with a black powder coat finish, so it's going to continue to look nice the entire time. And it is a custom fit application. Now there is no welding required. There is some minor drilling, but there is some body panels that we are going to need to remove and let's show you how we get it in place.Before we begin our installation, we're going to need to unpackage all our hardware and the manufacturer does recommend the use of red Loctite on all the bolts.

I'm going to take my Loctite and I'm going to apply a small mount onto each one of our bolts. That way it has a little bit of time to setup while I prep our car. To begin our installation, we're going to need to open the hood on our Smart car. Now if we come to the grill right below the hood on each side we're going to have a small tab. Now that tab we're going to be pushing towards the center, which will release it and we're going to rotate that out.

Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side.Now with the arms rotated towards the center, I'm going to push in which will release the hood and then we can lift up and slowly pull it away and it'll unclip. Now we're going to need to remove the fastener holding the strap, that holds our hood to our car. Now I'm going to be using a T-25 torx bit to remove that bolt. Ow we can set the hood aside. Now if we come right below our headlight, we're going to have a push pin fastener right here.

Now I'm going to be using a flathead screwdriver to get it out. Now if we come up, we're going to want to pop out the center section. Once we have the center section popped out, make sure it's popped out all the way and it may help to use a trim panel tool. Make sure the center's all the way out, and then we can come behind the back section and pop that out. Now we're going to repeat that process on the other side as well.Now right where our headlight meets our fender towards the top here we're going to have another torx bit and again I'm going to be using a T-25 to remove that. We're going to have another one on the other side as well. Now if we come to this center section, we're going to have one torx fastener again on each side of our grill and I'm going to be removing those using a T-25 as well. Next if we come to the driver side where our antenna is, if we grab it towards the bottom at the base, we're going to twist it in a counter clockwise motion to remove the antenna. We can go ahead and set this aside for now. Now if open the doors on our vehicle, at the very top we're going to have a torx bit fastener. Then if we come down to the middle, we're going to have a push pin fastener and we're going to need to remove those. Now for the torx bit fastener, I'm going to be using a T-25 torx bit to remove it.Now once we have the center removed with the torx bit head on it, there's going to be an outer piece that we're going to need to take out as well. Now you can use a flathead screwdriver or a panel tool to remove that. This is going to pop out and then we can remove the push pin fastener in the middle. Now this is just like the one before, we're going to need to pop out the center section to release it and then we can get the whole push pin out. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Now right where we just moved our fastener from the top here, we're going to have this plastic panel. Now we're going to pull towards the back in an upward motion and away from our vehicle and it should unlock it. We can grab the end, and it'll pop right out. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side.Behind the cover, we're going to have two fasteners holding it in place. Now the one towards the front of the car is going to be a T-25. Now the one in the back here, that's going to be a T-27 torx bit. Then we can move to the other side and remove the other side as well. If we come to the back of our vehicle, right in front of our tire and the wheel well area, we're going to have two push pin fasteners holding the lower valance on our vehicle. We're going to need to remove those, and again we're going to need to pop out the center section and then we can get out the larger section behind it. Now that we have this side removed we're going to do the same thing on the other side.On each side, we're going to need to come to our rocker panel and if we reach underneath we're going to want to pull out and away from our vehicle, so it unclips from underneath. Once those clips are released, we're going to want to slide our rocker panel towards the back to get it out the rest of the way. Then we can remove it and set it aside. Now if the clip comes off with your rocker panel, we can go ahead and pop it out. We're just going to put them back in place. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Now if we come to the front tire right behind it we're going to have another T-25 torx bit, that's going to be attaching our fascia to the bottom corner here. We're going to need to remove both sides.Now underneath the front of our vehicle, right where the pain stops underneath we're going to have two clips that are holding it in place. Now we're going to need to pop those out, so we can get the fascia off. We can just come underneath and slightly pull and pry just so that it releases that clip. And we'll do the same thing for the other one as well. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to begin to remove our fascia. Now if we come to the top corner here, right by our lights we're going to pull away slightly and I do want to recommend that you pay attention because our marker lights need to be disconnected. If we come to our light here, we're going to turn about a quarter turn and it'll release the light bulb.Now we are going to have a few push pins here that are going to hold it in place. If we just lift up slightly on each side, we should be able to carefully remove our fascia and we can set it aside for safe keeping. With the fascia removed, we are going to need to lift the front of our vehicle and get the tires off. Now I recommend lifting it by the sub frame or the pinch weld here, opposed to underneath on the control arm, that way we just have a little bit more room upfront. Now we're going to need to hae three lug nuts that we're going to need to remove. Now I'm going to be using a 15 millimeter socket to remove these. Now I just want to remind you that when you take that last one out, these are lug studs. So, there's not going to be anything holding the wheel on, so you want to make sure you have a firm grip before you take that last bolt out.Then we can set our wheels aside. And we're going to take the other front tire off as well. Now on the inside of our fender here, we're going to have a push pin fastener that's holding our fender liner to our core support. Now we're going to need to remove that and again I'm going to push out the center section, which will release the back. And we're going to repeat the same process on the other side as well. Now directly behind out strut, we're going to have a wire. Now that's going to be our ABS wire. Now against the fender liner we're going to have an attachment point that it's clipped into. We can pull that out and now we're actually going to take our ABS clamp here and we're going to work it loose a little bit first. But once it is loose enough, release from the liner here. We're going to unscrew this by screwing it counter clockwise. Now we're going to repeat that on the other side as well.Now at the front of our core support here, we're going to notice that we have two small torx bit fasteners. Now that's holding on our ABS sensors on the back side. Now we're going to need to remove these, but before we do I want to mention that we don't want to unplug the sensors. You especially want to make sure the key is out of the ignition because we don't want to trip an airbag sensor code and have to get it reflashed. I'm going to be using a T-25 torx bit to remove those bolts. Now we're going to remove the other one as well. Now we are going to need to remove the bolts holding our core support in place. Now here on the driver side, if we find our horn here and we follow the bracket down, there's going to be a bolt holding that in place and it's also holding our core support in place. Now it's going to be hard to see, but just over to the side a little bit and down, we're going to have another bolt. We're going to have one here on the side and then one at the very bottom here.Now we're going to need to remove all three of those bolts on each side. Now I'm going to be using a six point 10 millimeter socket to remove those bolts. Now once we remove the bolt with our horn attached, we can just set our horn aside. That way it doesn't get in the way of anything. Now that we have this side done, we can move to the other side and get that done as well. Now before I remove this last bolt, I do want to mention that's the only thing holding our core support on. You want to make sure you have a firm grip before you pull that bolt out. Now we're going to have a couple lines here. We're going to need to pop these clips off the core support. That's what's holding our airbag sensors on. We're going to pop those out and then we can remove our core support and put it on a work bench.Now we're at our core support here. We're going to need to rotate it, so that it's upside down or that the tab here with the small ear on it is pointing towards the ground. Now we can take the main receiver brace for our base plate. We're going to take that L shaped bracket and point it towards the ground. We're going to slide it over our core support and then we're going to rotate it, so that we can fit it nice and snug up against our core support. Now we're going to want to make sure this is butted tight against our core support. I'm going to grab a clamp and clamp it in place. This is what it should look like once we put our clamp in the middle. Now I do want to mention on the side here where our L brackets are, our base plate should be contacting our core support at the top here. But where our L bracket is with the holes in it, there should be a slight gap close to about a half inch and that's how you know you have it positioned correctly.Now if we come to the top of our base plate, we're going to have a couple holes. Now we're going to need to drill all the way through using this as a template and drilling through our core support. Now I'm going to use a pilot drill bit, a small drill bit to start out with and then the final hole will be enlarged to a half inch. Now we do have an option to drill through our base plate here and then through our core support or we can paint marker or whatever we have available to mark it. Then unclamp and remove our base plate and just draw on our core support. I clamped my core support to my work station and then I made a center punch mark, making it a little bit easier to get to, so I can drill it out.Now once you get through the first section of our core support. You want to make sure your drill bit's straight and drill straight down. Now we can come back and enlarge the hole to a half inch. Now I'm going to be using a step drill bit to drill out mu hole to a half inch. That way it makes it a little bit easier because I can go from each side. Now that we've drilled through both sides, we're going to take our half inch bolt and make sure that it fits through the hole. Now we can go ahead and start drilling on the other side. With both of our holes drilled, we're going to find our spacer here. It's going to be the larger of the two in our kit and we're going to slide it into our core support and we're going to line up the holes that we just drilled. Then the ones on our base plate. Then we can take our half inch bolt that's five inches long and we're going to slide it through the base plate through the spacer and then out the bottom.Now on the bottom we're going to be using a lock washer and a nut to attach it. But we're going to need to put in this tapered spacer. Now as you can see one side is going to be slightly larger or thicker than the other. And we're going to want to set our washer on there, so that the split end is on the short end, so it's nice and even when we tighten everything up. We can slide our spacer and our lock washer in place. Then we can attach our nut on the bottom. Now we're going to leave this kind of loose right now to make sure we can get our lock washer in the correct position. Again you want to make sure the split end or the thicker end of the washer is on the smaller end of our spacer. And we're going to repeat that on the other side as well. Now on the bottom here, we're going to take our support brace here and we're going to slide it over that half inch bolt we just put through. Then we're going to follow it up with a tapered spacer and we're going to slide that over our bolt.That's going to be followed by a lock washer. Then we're going to take our half inch nut and secure it to the bottom. Now on the side of our brace here, we're going to have two holes that are going to match up. We're going to take our 3/8 bolts and we're going to slide it through. That's going to be followed by a lock washer and then a nut on the end. Now we're going to repeat that process for this hole here as well as the two other remaining holes. Now that we have this side assembled, we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Now using a 3/4 inch wrench and socket, I'm going to snug up my half inch hardware. Now for my 3/8 hardware, I'm going to come back with a 9/16 wrench and socket and snug those all up.Now using a 3/4 inch wrench and socket I'm going to come back and torque my half inch hardware to the specified amount in the instructions. Then we'll repeat that for the remaining hardware. Now if we come to the spot on the front of our vehicle where we removed our core support. We're going to have a small piece of tape right here and we're going to need to remove that on each side. You can just take a flathead screwdriver or whatever you have available to scrap that tape off. Then we can remove the tape. Now we're going to need to do that on both sides. Now if we come to our wheel well. We come to the very center and the very top, we're going to have a push pin fastener holding it in right here.Now we're going to need to remove that to gain access behind our fender liner under the side of our frame. Then we can get the rest of the clip out. Now we're going to need to pull down and loosen our wheel well liner. If we pull down, and away it'll loosen it up top where it's connected up to the strut. Once we get it a little bit loose, we're going to have to pull down and towards the back of our vehicle because we're going to need to gain access right in this area. Now once you have it pulled back, you're going to want to secure with some kind of strap or something so it doesn't come popping out. I just put a bungee here and then underneath the car to keep my liner pulled back. Now there's going to be a grommet right here on the side of our frame. We're going to need to remove that. You can just grab it with your hands and pull it out. Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side as well.Now if we take our rear mounting plate here, we're going to want to make sure that the tab with the two holes on top are facing towards the front. Now we're going to slide this in place, so that it's going to come out the opening right above our core support here. Then we can line up the hole that we just removed the grommet and that's going to line up with that back hole right here. Now we're going to take a half inch by one and a half inch bolt, and put a lock washer over it. Now what we're going to be attaching this to, is we're going to have a lead wire with a nut on the back. We're actually going to go in the hole that we just removed the tape from and we're going to thread it into the handle nut that we put in through our core support hole. Now it may take a little bit of maneuvering and a little bit of patience to get everything lined up. Now here on our air deflector I marked out where we're going to need to trim. I'm just going to be using a pair of aviation snips.Now you can use whatever you have available because this just is thin cardboard or plastic type material. Once we have this side all trimmed out, we're going to do the same thing on the other side. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to put our core support and our base plate in place. Now we're going to need to reinstall the bumper bolts on top on each side. And we'll put the other side in as well. Now we're going to line up our main receiver brace with our rear brace back here. We're going to take a half inch bolt and we're going to slide it through from the inside going towards the out. Then we're going to follow it up with a half inch lock washer and a half inch nut. Now we're going to have two bolts that we're going to have to put in per side and we're going to go ahead and repeat that. We'll go ahead and get the other side in place.Now on the side of our frame here, we're going to have two more holes that we're going to need to drill out. Now I'm going to take a center punch, making it a little bit easier for me to drill my hole and that way I don't have to worry about my drill bit skipping around. We're going to center punch the other side as well. Now I do want to mention on the bottom hole here, we are going to go through both sides of the frame. Now the top hole, we're only going to go through to the inside of our frame and I just want to mention to be extra careful when you're drilling. Once you get through one section of the frame, you want to stop make sure your drill bit's straight and then continue. Now that I have my pilot holes drilled, I'm going to come back and using a half inch drill bit, I'm going to enlarge my holes.Now we're going to repeat that. But remember, for our lower hole we're going to go through both sides of our frame. Now we're going to repeat that for the other side as well. With all of our holes drilled, we're going to need to come back to where our main support brace is going to attach to our side plate. Now we're going to remove the hardware that we installed and we're going to be removing the main support brace. Now I'm going to remove the two bolts using a 10 millimeter socket that's holding our bumper core on. Ans we can remove our core support and our main brace and set it aside for right now. Now we're going to take our half inch bolts, the shorter of the ones left in our kit. We're going to take a lock washer and then we're going to take another one of our handle nuts and we're going to line it up with hole on the outside of our brace here. Then we're going to thread the bolt in place.Once we have this bolt threaded in, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side. Now the lower hole on our side bracket, we're going to take our half inch by five inch bolt and we're going to feed it through. Making sure that we go through both sides of the frame and on the other side, we're going to attach a flat plate followed by a lock washer and then a half inch nut to secure it. Now you're not going to be able to see this but the way I got my plate, lock washer, and nut onto my bolt here, is I put my hand underneath and you can reach the back side of the bolt through here. And just one at a time feed your pieces of hardware in place and usually it's easier to turn the bolt to get the nut off. Now we're going to do that on both side of our vehicle. We can go ahead and now put our main support brace and our bumper brace back in place and put the bolts attaching it to our side plates in place as well.Now we're going to start replacing our bumper beam bolts. If you remember, our horn is going to go on the top side of our driver side bumper bolt. We'll get that in place and we can bolt all this back together. To make it a little easier to get our bumper beam bolts back in place, we're going to remove this clip holding this sensor in place. That's just going to pop off the plastic section right here. Now we can sneak our bolts in just using our hand. But to tighten them up we're going to need a universal joint and possibly an extension. Now we can get in there and we can tighten up our bolts. We're going to repeat that for other side as well. Now using a 3/4 inch socket, I'm going to torque all my half inch hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. Now we're going to repeat that for all the remaining hardware. We can release our fender liners and we can push the push pin and fasteners back in place. We can take our ABS anchor point and we can screw it back in and reinstall our ABS wire.We can do that on the other side as well. We can go ahead and take our airbag sensors, line them up, and reinstall the hardware. Now there is a little notch that's going to keep it in place, so that you can get the screw back in place. Again I'm going to be using a T-25 torx bit to tighten up that bolt. We're going to repeat that for other airbag sensor as well. Now that our base plate is torqued down, we're going to start replacing and reinstalling all the panels that we took off. Now on our bumper here, we're going to need to cut out a section, so our base plate and the arms can attach. Now this yellow paint mark is a general vicinity of how we're going to have to cut. Now we may need to trim a little bit more once we test fit it but I'm going to go ahead and cut this section out. I'm going to be using a rotary tool and since this is just plastic, you can use pretty much whatever you have available.We can come back and clean this up, but we're going to need to cut this same section out on the other side of our license plate. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to reinstall our fascia and remember to plug in your lights on both sides. Now we're going to put a few fasteners in, so we can make sure that our fascia's going to stay in place. Now to reinstall our rocker panel, we're going to need to remove the white clips. They're on the screws on the side of our body. Now once we remove those, we're going to slide them in to the channel, right in correlation to the post is. We're going to make sure that its circle end is facing towards the post. We're going to repeat that for all the rest of our fasteners here.Now if we come to the front there's a small hook here. We're going to line it up and gently push and then slide it forward. Now we can gently pull our rocker panel away and if you need to, you might be able to sneak your fingers in there to line up those white clips with the metal posts. Once they're all lined up, we can go ahead and push firmly. You also want to make sure the back here, that it's lined up in the slot it needs to go. We can start pushing everything in place. If we twist our draw bar, we can put it in place and it'll lock underneath that tab. Now we can grab our D-ring and our safety chain loop and we can unscrew it. And if we come back right behind where that hole is, where the tab meets out on our arm, we can secure our safety chain loop to our base plate. We'll do the same thing on the other side. And that'll finish up our look at the Roadmaster EZ Base Plate kit with removable arms, part number 52285-1 on our 2013 Smart fortwo.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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