Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System Installation - 2014 Jeep Cherokee

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How to Install the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System on a 2014 Jeep Cherokee


Today on this 2014 Jeep Cherokee, we're going to install part number RM-9400. This is the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Proportional Braking System. Our first step is to actually install a breakaway switch that comes with the kit. This is our breakaway switch right here. Now, our breakaway switch is going mount to this bracket right here which is previously installed on the vehicle just for this purpose. This bracket came with the base plate kit that was previously installed on the vehicle, so this is where our breakaway switch will mount right to that bracket in this location.

This is the hardware that comes with the kit, the bolt and locking flange nut. We'll tighten it down and we're good to go. This plug here will eventually go to the cable that goes to the inside of the vehicle, but we're going to leave it outside for now. Our next step is to go ahead and find a location for our transmitter. What we decided on was back on this panel underneath here. We ran our antenna right next to the port here off to the side and we still have easy access to the cord when we install the Even Brake.

Now we have our location, we'll go ahead and just set it down and out of the way for now. To run our cable from the breakaway switch to the inside there's an opening we can use right here. Honestly, I already have it cut open, but you can use a knife to get through this thin film right here and then there's another grommet right behind it. Let's go ahead and just push the film out of the way or cut, however you want, then we'll go ahead and reach in with a pair of needle nose to grab the grommet from the inside and pull it towards the interior of your vehicle. It's really hard to see and get a grip on and then try to pull it out.

If you push too far forward, this will fall into the engine compartment and it will take a lot of time to go ahead and find it when it's out. One other thing about our grommet, it was installed from the factory this way even though this tab that you could easily grip was actually pointing towards the outside. Let's go ahead and get our grommet ready. We'll go ahead and just make a cut in it and we'll go ahead and get our cable ran through it. We're just going to put a slice right next to the handle and then we'll go ahead and push the cable through. This will be a tight fit.

Let's go ahead and run some cable through our grommet and we'll go ahead and push it through into the outside. Now you're going to put a good length through there to help find it and pull it through, because it is kind of cramped where this comes out at. We're just going to keep pulling it out almost to the end on the other side, but you can always take up your slack later. We'll leave enough length of our black cable for our breakaway switch to have a little extra on the inside in case we have to move it around at a future date, but well also make sure we've got enough length to go to our transmitter box. Once we have enough, we'll go ahead and put our grommet, push it back into place. Now, we'll go underneath the vehicle, get access to our wire and pull it towards our breakaway switch. We'll have to get underneath the vehicle to pull out our black wires that we pushed through the firewall, but then we'll have to come right back up. We're going to follow the existing wiring to our breakaway switch, so we're going to use an old piece of airline tubing as a wire pull. This could be any other stiff piece of wire that you could fish down there as well to help pull up wires. Go find our wires. Our wire harness is still going to be up in the engine compartment pretty far. You want to double check to make sure it's not caught on anything that moves, and then we'll go ahead and attach it to our pull wire. We'll go ahead and tape our black wire to our airline and go ahead and pull it up. We've got it pulled up and we'll go ahead and follow our existing wiring. We'll go ahead and sneak it underneath this cover right here, so we'll go ahead and loosen up these 3 rivets to get access. Let's get the centers of our rivets started and a trim panel tool helps out. Our fasteners loosened up, let's go ahead and just sneak our wire underneath. Let's go ahead and tuck it down behind the bumper cover, and then we'll go ahead and re-install our rivets. We'll go ahead and pull out our wire and we'll go ahead and plug the 2 together, so this is our breakaway switch wire and our new cable we ran. We'll also use some electrical tape to make sure the connection is more secure than anything else. It won't come apart on us. Let's go ahead and tuck our excess back inside and then we'll go ahead and take a few moments with some zip ties and secure our wire and make sure it doesn't move anymore than it has to. These zip ties do not come with the kit, so it's a good idea to go ahead and get yourself some extra zip ties when you install it. Once we're all done, we'll go ahead and cut off all our tails for our zip ties. Next we need to install a brake light relay. To install that part, we need to find a wire that gets only hot when you press the brake pedal. In this case, we're looking for a wire that's dark green and light green. It's really hard to get up in there on top on the brake switch. There's not much working room at all, but we do have the sheath from the wires already pulled away so you can see what wire we're looking for. Since we have such a limited place to work with, were actually going to go ahead and lengthen our wire. We'll go ahead and cut it in half and we'll add some leads onto it so it's a little bit easier to work with. In this case, we'll use a couple of wire nuts to make our connections and extend them. Then we'll go ahead and use a scrap piece of wire that's long enough to work with and we'll attach it to those. With our 2 leads now, we can go ahead and install our brake light relay. We'll go ahead and strip the ends of our wires. Our half our wire that goes directly to the brake switch will get our green wire and our relay. This is the green wire with 2 wires connected to the butt connector and then going to our new wire here. These 2 go to our brake switch. Our other half our wire that goes onto the rest vehicle and to the base of the taillights will get our black wire. On this case, our blue wire is not being used so we'll just leave it alone. Our white wire will go to ground so we can find some sheet metal underneath our vehicle and attach to that. We'll go ahead and route our white wire through a door that covers up the fuses. Our sheet metal is covered by this piece of plastic right here, so we're going to drill a hole in the plastic to get access to the bare metal. Then we'll use a self-tapping screw using a 1/4" hex head bit and we'll run that to the steel. Now, our red wire with the fuse holder needs to go to any hot side of the fuse that's powered only when the ignition is in the on position. We've searched our fuses back in here and found out they're powered all the time regardless of ignition, so we're going to have to run this back to the outside to the fuse panel underneath the hood. We'll go ahead and we cut our wire in half and use an extension. We'll run this through our firewall and back up to our fuse box. Cut our wire in half. We'll add 2 new butt connectors so we can lengthen our wire. We'll attach this end on the outside underneath the hood. We'll take our extension and run it through our grommet to the outside. Just like before, we'll go ahead and use our airline tubing to help pull the wire back up. We'll cut off our excess and go ahead and add our fuse holder. Since this connection is kind of outside, we'll go ahead and apply some tape to help secure it. Now I'll go ahead and point out the fuse we're going to use. This is the far left hand side of our box so right here would be the driver's left wheel. This fuse right here is what we're going to use for our power. This fuse is only powered when the key is in the on position. We'll go ahead and pull it out. We'll set it to the side for now and then we need to find out what side of the socket is hot when the key is in the on position. The key is on and you can see that this side of the socket here has power and the other side doesn't, so this side here we want to add our fuse tap to. This is our fuse tap right here and the kit comes with 2 different ones depending on the size fuse you have. Basically what they do is they catch over the top of the fuse and you pull them down in position and then this part will snap over the plastic body. Now we want to take our other end of our fuse holder, put it onto our fuse tap, line up our fuse tap side which gets power and push it into place. Now, we need to get a wire to the outside. All we're going to do is just make a small notch in the plastic here just to run our wire through. We'll use a rotary tool to do that. Make a notch just small enough for our wire. We can go ahead and put our lid back into place. Let's go ahead and secure our wires one more time. Now we can go ahead and get back to working with our ICX transmitter. We'll go ahead and work with these 2 wires, the white and the red. The white wire will be ground just like our other white wire was, and this red wire will connect up to the fuse box as well. However, this needs to connect up to a fuse that's on when the key is in the off position and we can use one of the fuses back here on the inside this time. Let's go ahead and add our terminals to our wires. Our white wire will get a ring terminal and our red wire will get another one of those flat terminals or spade terminals. Let's start with our ground this time. We'll follow our other ground wire and we'll use the same ground as we did before. Let's go ahead and turn our attention to our fuse panel back in here. With our key in the off position, we'll go ahead and check our fuse. We'll use a 25 amp fuse right here. We'll go ahead and pull it out and let's see which side is hot and which side is cold. The hot side is on the right hand side of the socket. We'll go ahead and add our fuse tap like we did before. Let's go ahead and take our red wire and we'll go ahead and follow our 2 ground wires as well. We'll plug our red wire into our fuse tap and re-install the fuse. We'll make sure that our fuse tap is on the cold side of the socket. Remember our lone green wire from the brake light switch with the spade connector That will go in right here. There's a small terminal right here we can just push it on. Then we'll take our breakaway wire and we'll plug these 2 together. At this point, we're ready to install our box. There's nothing really on top of this panel here, so we'll go ahead and use the screws that come with the kit and run it into place. The screws that came with the kit werent really self-tapping, so we just substituted a couple of them with some self-tapping screws, number 8's with a 1/4" hex head bit. A couple will be more than adequate to hold it up against that plastic panel. Finally, all our wire connections are made underneath the dash. Take a few moments to go ahead and secure our wires and make sure they're secure and out of the way. All the permanent wiring for our vehicle is installed and it's ready to go, so at this point we can go ahead and put our Even Brake into place and get it set up to when you can take it in and out as easily as possible. Let's go ahead and initially put our Even Brake into place and then we just want to double check to make sure that it's sitting even on the floor. It's not rocking. That's a good sign. Basically, we'll just go ahead and follow the steps on the quick reference guide. Pretty simple. We'll go ahead and make sure our seat is all the way back, our Even Brake's on the floor. There's a button on the side here that you want to make sure you have all the air out of. Now we'll go ahead and secure the pedal clamp. That's this part right here. It's spring loaded so it grabs the pedal. We'll expand it and slide it upward over the pedal. There's a groove on the backside here. Make sure that the arm of the pedal goes between those 2 grooves. Then check the clamp on the bottom to make sure it's fully seated and then we'll take our latch and put it back into place. Then we'll install our pin and that will keep it from coming off. What's a good idea is to go ahead and push our Even Brake up towards the pedal, but not where it pushes the pedal. Just enough where it meets it and maybe just a little bit back. We'll move our seat forward where it just touches. It's a good idea to double check the seat against the Even Brake to make sure it's making as much contact with the seat cushion as possible. If you need to, this rest here can be moved up and down as needed. Our ICX cord will go into our transmitter. Then we'll go ahead and plug in a 12 volt cord. We'll get our 12 volt power supple cord unraveled, then we'll go ahead and plug into our 12 volt power supply. We're using this one because it goes straight to the battery. You don't want to use one that's switched like up by the gear shift. Once you plug in, this will start building up air in the tank. We'll hit the test button. It will push the brake pedal 3 times and verify it's working. After it's done with its test, you want to look for this green light right here and once it's solid green, you're good to go. That pretty much covers everything in the vehicle itself. The other part we have is the monitor that goes in the RV. However, we don't have the RV with us, but we actually don't need the RV to make it work. Like I said, we don't need the RV. We just have it plugged into a 12 volt power supply and you can see that it agrees with the Even Brake in the vehicle. It says test is good, the system's ready. When we're in a braking situation, the monitor will tell you what's going on. I'll go ahead and manually hit the brake pedal and you can see what happens. You can see when the brake pedal is being used that shows you braking is occurring. One other test that would be a good idea is to go ahead and try out the breakaway switch. We'll go ahead and pull it out and make sure it activates. We have it pulled out. We'll go ahead and re-install the key. We verified that everything is working. What's really nice about this part is you dont have to have the same vehicle towing your Cherokee all the time. You can transfer from RV to RV. That will finish it for part number RM-9400, on the Road Master Even Brake Portable Proportional Braking System on our 2014 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. .


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