Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System Installation - 2008 Honda Fit

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How to Install the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System on a 2008 Honda Fit


Today on this 2008 Honda Fit, we're going to install part number RN-9400 from Roadmaster. This is the Even Brake Portable Proportional Braking System. First off we're going to start with the breakaway switch and we're going to use this preexisting bolt right here. We're going to take it and fit it inside here. We are going to have to modify the bracket. We'll go ahead and remove the bolt and see what we need to drill it out to. There's a shoulder on the bolt here so we'll go ahead and drill out to match that. To match your bolt we're using a drill bit of 13/32.

Next we'll go ahead and cut down the width of this to match the shape of the plastic bracket here. We're going to just basically do it by eye. There you go. Bend it down just a bit and then install our bolt. We're going to go ahead and cut down our edges of our bracket here to give us some room for the breakaway switch. Trimming it helps but doesn't get us all the way there.

Next we're going to go ahead and find our location for our transmitter. This will go inside the vehicle. Between this and the breakaway switch, there'll be a cable to run eventually. In this case I think we're going to use the plastic liners on the bottom here and just attach it like this when we're done. Let's leave this alone for now. Let's go ahead and drill a hole out for our cable that will go between here and our breakaway switch. To do that, we need to go from the inside to the outside.

We're going to pull back our carpeting and get that access to the flooring underneath and we'll go ahead and drill through the floor pan from the bottom up. I'm just going to pop this up just like this and then I'll put a piece of wood to protect the carpet as I drill through. Let's go underneath the car and drill out our hole. This is our floor pan right here right close to where it goes back up toward the center console so we'll go ahead and drill a hole at a little bit of an angle like right here. We'll start off a pilot hole first to verify it and then we'll go ahead and go drill a larger size. Right here is where we drilled through so we'll go ahead and enlarge it to its final size.

In this case, it's going to be a 9/16. Now our initial hole size that the manufacturer recommends isn't going to be big enough so we're going to go ahead and go to a larger hole size which would be 11/16. Let's go ahead and take our wire and run it through. With our wire run through, we'll go ahead and install a Snap Bushing, part number SWC8057. We'll cut it in half, put it around our wire and then push it into place. Let's go ahead and take our wire and run it up towards the front to our breakaway switch. We'll plug these two together. We'll go ahead and make a semi-permanent connection with some electric tape. We'll go ahead and take up our slack, leave enough for some working room and then we'll just basically trace some preexisting wiring and we'll go ahead and just tie it in place. We'll go ahead and cut off our tails and then we'll seal up the hole using part number LT37467, the Loctite RVT Silicone Gasket Maker. Next we'll go ahead and install the brake light relay. Now a relay installs on the cold side of the stop foot of 00:04:28 your vehicle so you have to get underneath the dash to do that. It's very limited access to it. We'll go ahead and remove this panel, turn this knob and pull down and it comes apart. To make things a little easier, we'll go ahead and remove this bottom panel as well. We'll look right through here and follow this wire. This will go to the brake switch. There's a zip tie holding the wire up. We'll go ahead and snip that to give us some more access. We're going to peel away the inaudible 00:05:01 to get access to the wires. The wire we had cut in half is our black and white wire. This is the relay we're going to install. This green wire with the yellow butt connector will go on the wire going toward the brake switch and our black wire will go on the other side. For this application we do not use the blue wire so let's go ahead and remove it. It's just a spade terminal and pulls right out. Now to make things a little easier, we just cut the wire in half, use a couple butt connectors that come with the kit and use some wire from the relay kit that we do not need to use on this particular vehicle. We'll just actually use a black wire from the relay kit. You just snip it off and we have a terminal ready to go into our transmitter. Let's go ahead and work for our transmitter now. White wire will go to ground, which is easy enough, and our red wire will go to the cold side of one of the fuses underneath the dash. We'll go ahead and look for our fuse that we attach our red wire to. We want to make sure that the fuse comes on with the key in the on position when the vehicle is being towed. We'll go ahead and add a fuse tap to the side of the fuse that will go into the hot side of the socket, push in the legs and snap it over the top. Our terminal end that comes in the kit, we'll go ahead and put on the wire and attach it. We'll take the red wire and push it over a tab and push the fuse back into place. Let's go ahead and attach a ring terminal that comes with the kit to our white wire for ground. We'll use this piece of sheet metal right here. We're using a self-tapping screw to make our attachment. This screw does not come with the kit. Let's go ahead and take a few moments to zip tie our wires to make sure they are safe and secure and out of the way. We'll also use a zip tie to hold the relay in place too. Remember our wire from the breakaway switch We'll go ahead and plug that into the back of our transmitter and our black wire that came from the brake switch, we'll go ahead and plug that into that terminal right here, labeled number 1 on the back of the transmitter. These wires will be tucked up underneath our panel and we're done. Let's go ahead and take our carpeting, put it all back into place and let's go ahead and tie up our excess out of the way. We'll just tuck our excess behind the carpet and let's go ahead and put our panel back into place. Let's clean off a section of the plastic underneath here and our transmitter and a last minute decision, we decided to move it towards the outside. We'll go ahead and add our adhesive and then pull off the other half and stick it to the bottom. Now go ahead and work with the monitor for the RV. Pretty simple. This plugs into the power port, push it in and it's powered up. This has an adhesive on the back so you can install it anywhere you want on the vehicle. For our customer, we'll go ahead and let him make that decision so we'll leave this alone for now. We'll go back to your Honda and let's go ahead and install the rest of your Even Brake. Let's go ahead and install the Even Brake. You want to make sure that the seat is pushed all the way towards the back. We'll take the Even Brake and push it into place. You can see how our clamp fits around it. This will clamp around the brake pedal. It's spring loaded but you want to make sure that it's always tight as possible. Take the tab, push it into place. Put the safety pin in and we've got our connection made to the brake pedal. Next we'll go ahead and push the air release to make sure there is no air in the system. You also want to push down on the button and also extend the shaft. Now we'll go ahead and just seat so it sits level. In this case it looks like the bottom one's here. Using a 1/2 inch wrench, we'll go ahead and loosen up the lock nut and lower the feet as necessary to keep it even. Once we're satisfied with the height, we'll go ahead and run the lock nut up into place and tighten it down. I want this part to match the seat pad as best as possible and we can go ahead and lower it some to match up. In this case, we ran it all the way down. Now we'll go ahead and take our seat and push it up to this bar right here. You want it just to touch but not pushing on the brake pedal. We'll take our cord for our transmitter, go ahead and unravel what we need and then we'll go ahead and plug it into our transmitter. We'll plug this cord in next. We'll go up and put the key in the ignition for towing position and then we'll go ahead and plug into our 12-volt power supply. After you plug it in, you can tell that it ran the compressor for a little bit to get ready. Now it's ready for a test. Hit the test button. It'll work back and forth three times and tell you when it's ready. Now a steady green light. That means we're good to go. Looking at our monitor in the RV, you can see the test is good and tells you the system is ready. After this is pretty much fine tuning the system for sensitivity for your braking, how hard or less braking you want. This would be up to the users preference. When the unit is braking, you can see it gives you display and tell you when it's working in the car. We're doing this without the car hooked up either so you can see how it's totally wireless. At this point we'll go ahead and double check the breakaway switch. We'll go ahead and pull it and make sure the brake activates. To remove it is reverse order. Make sure you unplug it first from the 12-volt power supply, then your cord and your air release and then you can go ahead and remove it from the brake pedal. With that, that will finish it for part number RM-9400 from Roadmaster on our 2008 Honda Fit. .


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Installed by:
Jeff D
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Andrew L
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Kathleen M
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Dustin K
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Alan C
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Sue W
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Chris R
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Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
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