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Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit Installation - 2019 Buick Envision

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How to Install the Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit on a 2019 Buick Envision


Hi there flat towers. Today on a 2019 Buick Envision, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmaster's Direct-Connect Base Plate. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between your motor home and your vehicle. You'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on your vehicle for your tow bar to attach to. You'll also need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar.

Your diode wiring, which takes all the whining signals from your motor home and transfer them to the lights at the back of your vehicle, keeping your DLT compliant in all states, as well as ensuring everybody behind you knows your intentions when going down the road. And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit the brakes in your motor home.Now there are some supplemental things that you may want to consider, a high-low adapter maybe necessary if your motor home's receiver sits significantly higher than your base plate. The rule of thumb is you want to measure to the center of each and they should be within three inches, if not you'll want to look at getting one of these here. We have plenty here at etrailer.com with varying sizes and weight ratings. So we've got one for your particular setup.

Another component I want to consider for your Buick Envision is a fuse bypass kit. Because when you put your Buick Envision into flat tow mode, there are two fuses that it requires you to pull. And rather than pulling those fuses each time, we can just flick a button and now those fuses are disconnected. When we're ready to drive our vehicle again, we can take it out of flat tow and right back into drive mode. Those fuses are reinserted into the circuit.And this is what our base plate looks like when it's installed.

The majority of the base plate is going to be hidden completely behind the bumper. There are going to be a few components that poke through, but they don't stick out too far and they kind of look like they we're supposed to be there in the first place. We have our connection point here for our direct connect tab. We've got our safety chain loop connection. Roadmasters also provided a mounting location for your diode wiring and your 6-pole connector, as well as for your breakaway switch.

The arms here is what your tow bar will attach to. These are removable so when you're not flat towing, your vehicle can have a cleaner look like you see here and you don't have to worry about walking by and bumping your shins on anything. When you are ready to use it, we simply slide these in and we want the stickers to be facing up towards the top. We'll give it a twist until they click into place. We can then do the same thing over here on the other side.The entire base plate has a black powder coat finish on it to protect it against corrosion. This is one of the more challenging base plates to install as there is going to be quite a bit of drilling involved. But if you follow along with me, it's really not as bad as it may seem because you don't have to get into any weird positions, at least you can get to everything. Let's go into the shop now and get it on. We'll begin our installation at the front of the vehicle with our hood open. We need to remove the panel here across the top, over our radiator. There's nine pins that we'll need to remove, and you can remove those with a flathead screwdriver. If you look around the head, there is a small slit and we're just going to take our screwdriver and put that in that little opening. Give our screwdriver a little twist to pop up the center, and then we can just pull it out.Sometimes the bottom piece comes with it, but if it doesn't, your screwdriver can easily pry it out of there once the center has been removed. We'll then just repeat this for all the remaining clips. Once we get our last pin out here, we can then remove the entire assembly. We're just going to pick it up and set it aside where it's not going to get damaged. We'll now take out all the torque screws that go across the front of our fascia. There's a total of six and we'll remove them with a T15 Torx Socket.We're now on the bottom side of our vehicle, and we need to remove the bolts that hold our under panel here off. There's three across the center we're going to take off. We're using a seven millimeter socket. We'll then need to remove the bolts around the edge here so we're going to start taking these off with our seven millimeter socket. And take this one off. We're really trying to separate it from the fender well is what we're doing. So we don't need to take out the ones that attach the plastic sheet to the other plastic sheet here. There's a total of six bolts across the bottom here. We'll then repeat that over here on the other side. That's so we can separate these two pieces to make it easier taking them off. We're going to take off all the bolts running across the front, and then these we'll now separate. These are all going to use the same size to remove them. There's a total of eight going across the front.We can now remove this panel. There is a pin here in the middle, we're just going to pull down. So you pop that pin out and then we can just slide the panel out of there. And we're going to set this one aside as well. We're now on the driver's side on the wheel at the front here. I did turn the wheel all the way to the right to give us more access. And there's four torx screws we going to be removing using that same T15 Torx Socket. We can now take the molding here that runs along the sides, and we're going to kind of pull out and up a little bit to release it from our fender there. And then it's just going to pop off of those clips. And that's pretty much what we need to do on this side.So we're going to go repeat the same process over on the opposite side. You may need to turn your wheel the other direction in order to get those out and get these popped off. If these guys stay behind, it's not a big deal. We can remove those with a trim panel tool. You can take a trim panel tool like this and just get behind it. And then you can pop those out of there. These will then just slide right back in to our molding piece. So if they stayed behind, you can leave them there for now and then put them back in when you're done. This is how you would do it when we going back together.Now that we've got our trim pulled back on each side, if we pull back on the fender liner, right where our fascia meets the fender here, you're going to have a bolt going down up on top. It's going to be a seven millimeter, just like the ones we took out before. So you can use the same size. It is going to be pretty tight though so you may need a wrench to get up in there, or if you've got a swivel or a flex head ratchet, all those things can help get you into this tight space up in here. In most cases, once you get the bolt started, it usually loosens it up enough that you can take it out by hand. And I like to just use the socket to get myself something a little bit more to grip on, and I'll just take it out like this.Once we get this bolt out, we'll take the one out in the same spot over on the other side. We can now start taking off our fascia. One of the things I like to do is take rags or paper towels and our trim pieces that we've pushed off, we can just set these right in here and that's just going to hold it away just to make things a little bit easier on you. I'm going to go ahead and prop up the other side the same way just to help hold it out. And then we're going to start on one side and we're going to just pull outward to release our fascia. We're going to work our way here towards the front. And once we get popped out right up to about the headlight here, we're going to go ahead and stop on this side and get the other side to this point. Now that we've got each side removed, we can come to the center and we're going to grab it from the bottom.And there's little tabs here at the top on these, so we need to just pop them up over those tabs. And then we can just start working it away from the vehicle. And then we're going to check for any electrical connectors that we may have, so we can see we've got one right here over on the passenger side. So we're going to press down on the lock tab to release it, and we can press down on the release tab there and disconnect it. Now with our connectors disconnected, we'll just slide our fascia back and we'll set it aside where it won't get damaged. We'll now take the cruise control sensor bracket off from the center of the vehicle here. There's two bolts on top and one down below, underneath this panel right here, you can reach down below just to get to it. We'll use our seven millimeter socket to remove these.Now if you did have a sensor on your bracket, you'll want to make sure you unclip it before you take it off. Next, we're going to remove the air dam just underneath where we took our bracket off. There is a sensor on the bottom here, we'll want to unclip this first. There's three little prongs, you can kind of just pull down. If you pull down and kind of push it on the prong, it comes out a little bit easier. And if it's attached here, we going to just pop this off because we are going to be taking this out of the way. So we're just going to set it aside there. To remove the air dam now, we're going to take out all the clips. The clips across the top and bottom are a little different, they just pry out. I recommend using a trim panel tool. And I like to get behind the whole plastic piece. That way, it's just a little bit easier to just pop them out this way.The clips located on the side, they're going to be similar to those that we had taken out on top when we removed that panel above the radiators. And with the last clips removed, we can just set this aside. We're not going to be putting this back on. We'll now need to trim the brackets flush along the bottom of our bumper beam. We're going to do this on each side. You can use a cutoff wheel or a reciprocating saw. We've got a small reciprocating saw we're going to be using, and we just going to follow this right along the bottom cutting it.And we're just going to cut off the other side the same way. The only thing left holding the air dam in here now is just this rubber that runs along the bottom. There's some small little bumps that it just goes over. We just going to pull it off of those across the bottom here. And then we can set this aside. We can now take our ambient air temperature sensor, and we're just going to install this into the rubber that we had removed. So just pop those clips just right up in there to ensure it's going to hold it. You've got another clip here. We can reinsert this one as well. We can now remove the beams on each side where we had cut. There's three bolts on each side. You do want to keep in mind that when taking these off, the horn mount is secured with one of these so we're just going to make sure we set that into a place where it's not going to get damaged.Seven millimeter socket once again. When our horn gets loose there, just going to make sure it can't fall and get damaged there. And then we'll do the same thing over on the other side. With the bolts removed, the only thing left really holding it in here is the rubber here on top. This is very similar to what we had down below. It just kind of pulls out of this rubber. So we're just going to pop that rubber off of there. And once we've got it popped off, you may or may not have a motor at the center, and we're going to want to disconnect this. There's a small red lock tab there so we're going to take a small screwdriver or your trim panel tool just to pop that up. Just like that.Because once you've got it propped up, you can press in on it to release the connector. We'll then set this panel aside. We can now remove the end caps on our bumper beam on each side. If there's any electrical connectors attached to them, we're just going to pop those out of there with our trim panel tool. And then to remove the plastic cover, these are just like the ones that we removed up top. So we're going to pop out the center first and then we can pull out the entire tab. There's a little clip here on the side. We're just going to pull out on that clip a little bit, and then we can just pop this out of here. We'll do the same thing around the other side.We're going to be removing the bumper beam now, but we're going to get rid of all these electrical connectors out of the way. So we're not fighting when we're taking it off. To remove these, you can just use a pair of needle nose and squeeze the little prongs together, and then it just pulls right out of there. There's also a one clip on the driver's side, on the backside of the bumper beam, pretty close to where our horn was. We're going to make sure we pop that one out as well. Okay, now remove the bumper beam. There's four bolts on each side and we'll take them out with a 13 millimeter socket. I always like to leave one bolt, just partially threaded. It's going to crack that guy loose and that's just going to ensure that when I'm taking the other side off, this side can't fall out.Now that I've got the last bolt removed on the passenger side, I'm just going to come over here to the driver's side. And I just use the socket by hand to unthread that last little bit, and we can take our bumper beam off now and set it aside. Our base plate, it's going to attach to the side of the frame on each side. So any of the electrical connectors that are in that location, we just want to get them out of the way. I'm just going to pop them off with our trim panel tool and just make it so they're in a way where we can move them out of the way so we can get the things done that we need to get done. With the next set of hands, we're going to lift the base plate into position and then our next set of hands can hold it in place and we're going to clamp it on each side so that way it'll hold itself up in position.We want to make sure we've got each side clamped. We're going to line up the holes at the top of our base plate with the flange, just above our frame here. And then we can use our base plate as a template to drill out the holes. Once you've got the holes drilled out, I like to slide a bolt through just to make sure it's going to fit. We're going to be putting Red Loctite on all of our bolts, and we're going to have a flat washer on our bolt where we put it through. There's also a spacer that goes in between the base plate and the frame. It's a pretty tight fit since we've got it clamped in position here. So you might need to tap it in with a little hammer just to get it down in there.Once you've got it through, we're going to follow that up with a lock washer and a nut. We'll then repeat this for the remaining holes. Now we've got our holes drilled out, we can install our hardware. It's going to be the same as the top bolts that we had put in earlier. Just make sure you got that Red Loctite on there. With all of our hardware installed, now we can go back and tighten them down using a 15 millimeter socket wrench. We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. On each side now, there are three bolts that hold our lower radiator support on. We're going to remove those. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket to do so. You may need to use a wrench on some of the tighter ones there.We can now put our brackets in place. These are going to be side specific. You can see here, we want our flag portion of it to be facing towards the front of the vehicle. And then this little cutout here is going to slide right over our radiator bracket that was there. So this is going to bolt with the 40 millimeter bolts that come included with your kit. That's these ones here, you can tell. These are the only metric bolts that it comes with these 8.8 there at the top. These are going to get locked tight as well and we're going to have a lock washer and a flat washer placed on each one of them. And then we can thread it right back in to the holes that we had removed the factory bolts from. Going to do this with the two remaining bolts on this side.And then we're going to install this bracket over on the other side in the same way. There are a couple of more pieces of hardware we're going to use to attach it to our base plate. So we don't want these bolts to be real tight at this time, we're just going to get them in there just till they're finger tight so we can ensure that we can move it around to get all our hardware lined up. Now that we've got all the hardware loosely installed for our bracket here, we can then run it through the bracket in the base plate. So we're going to be taking the shorter standard bolts that come in our kit. Going to place a flat washer on them, slide them through and on the opposite side, we're going to place another flat washer, a lock washer and then a nut. We're going to do the same thing with this bolt.And now we can go back and tighten down all of our hardware. We're going to start by tightening down the hardware that we placed into the frame through the bracket first. We're going to use a 13 millimeter socket or wrench to tighten these down. This last one's pretty tight to your wire, you're going to need a 13 millimeter wrench to get in there on this one. We got a ratcheting wrench, so it'll make things a little bit easier. There is a little bit of room so if you have a short socket on a quarter inch, you may also be able to fit that in there. Then we can tighten these down with a 15 millimeter socket and wrench. We can now go back and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. Depending on the thickness of your torque wrench, you may need a crow's foot to tighten down the one behind the base plate.And now that all the bolts are torqued down on this side, we're going to repeat the same step over on the other side. Now that our fascia is fully installed, we've got everything torqued down. The installation for that is basically complete, we just need to get our fascia back on, and we're going to be installing that in reverse order of how we removed it. Now I'm not going to be putting the entire fascia back on yet at this point, because there's more components that we're going to need for our flat tow setup. And having all these components removed is going to make it significantly easier to install them. There are a couple of things I am going to put back on though. Our bumper core needs to go back on as well as our cruise control mount and the louvres that we took off up here.So I'm going to get those back on. We're just going to do it exactly in reverse order of how we removed it. Now we've got all of our components re-installed here except for the fascia. At this point, I do highly recommend you take a stop, finish up your braking system, your diode wiring, and any other accessories that you might have for your flat tow setup. We're going to get all those installed so you're going to see a few more components here. Once we get all the rest of those installed, we're going to come back and we're going to show you how to trim out the facia and get every installed. I've gone ahead and marked out the locations where we need to trim it. You'll find figures in your instructions that also help guide you in cutting this. You can do this with either a cutoff tool. I like to use a little reciprocating blade, it's a little bit easier to fit in here to cut these out.Now if you had any rough edges or anything, you just come back and clean those up. Depending on the tool you used, you may need to use a file or a razor blade to knock off any of those firsts. We can now reinstall our fascia in reverse order of how we removed it. You'll want to test fit to make sure you don't need to do any additional trimming. As you may need to trim for your breakaway switch or any other accessories you may have added. And you'll also want to remember to plug in your electrical connector.It may not clip back into its same spot. It's a little bit loose in there, but it is going to hold it in there. It's close to the base plate there. So you can see here when we're double-checking ourselves, that our breakaway switch here is going to contact so we are going to have to just do a little bit of extra trimming in order to get this installed. You may or may not need to do this, it just depends on the particular base plate and the components that you've chosen. And that completes our installation of Roadmasters Direct Connect Base Plate on your 2019 Buick Envision.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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