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Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit on a 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Hi there, Jeep owners. Today in your 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmaster's diode wiring kit. These kits are available and several different options depending on the type of connector that you would like to use. You can get it without any connector at all, where it's just your diodes and your wiring. And then you can provide your own connector if you're reusing one or anything like that, maybe updating your vehicle, changing vehicles over. So there's that option.

You can get it with a four pole flat. You could also get it with a seven to six way and either a coiled cable, straight cable or hybrid cable as well as a four round cable. So there are plenty of different options. Just check see what you got at the back of your motorhome. The most common is gonna be the seven-way to a six-way with a seven on your motorhome side and a six-way at the front of the vehicle.

There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motorhome. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection device between your motorhome and your vehicle. Your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar. You'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on your vehicle. You'll need your diode wiring, which will take all the lighting signals from your motorhome and transfer them to the lights at the back of your vehicle.

So people will know your intentions when going down the road and your supplemental braking system to help your vehicle come to a safe stop when you go to stop in your motorhome. One other device that you may need is a high-low adapter. We're using one here today. This is only if your tow bar is a significant difference between the connection point on the vehicle and the motorhome. We'd like to keep it within three inches.

So as long as the height of your coupler on the hitch here, the receiver on your motorhome at the center is within three inches of the center of your attachment point on your base plate, you don't need one. But if it is larger than that, in our case here, we got about a four inch difference. So we're using a two-inch drop to give us a nice level tow bar. It's important that it's level, so that way you're pulling it straight. If it's up high, it's gonna be lifting up on your suspension every time you wanna take off. And if it's too low, you'll be pulling down on your suspension every time you take off, which prematurely wears those components. Your diode wiring kit will take all the lighting signals from your motor home and transfer them to the lights here at the back of your vehicle. And you can see here, we've got the hazard lights on and the lights there on our motorhome that are flashing are also flashing here at the back, mimicking our signal. The reason why we use a diode kit is to protect our Jeep's computer systems and wiring because they act as a one way check valve for electricity. So it allows us to route our wiring, get our signals from our motorhome to go to our lights. They'll pass through the diode to get to the light, but they cannot pass back through the diode to go down to our factory wiring. And so that keeps everything safe and allows the lights here at the back of your vehicle to operate just as if you we're driving it downtown. So that's a really cool way to easily be able to plug your vehicle into your motorhome really quickly to get everything set up and get all your lights working. There are a few other options. There's a bulb and socket kit that you can get where you physically add another bulb into your housing and route your wiring to that, that way you don't have to tap into any of the factory wiring. I personally don't like this option 'cause oftentimes in your modern taillight assemblies, there's just not enough room for that bulb. And you're opening up the possibilities for leaks down the road in the future 'cause you physically have to drill a hole to mount that bulb. With our diode wiring, we don't have to do anything to the housing. We're just working with the wiring right behind it. And I find that this is just a longer lasting installation than the bulb and socket. Your other option is a kind of a temporary option. You have to set it up every single time that you want to use it. It's magnetic lighting where you set them up on top of the vehicle with just magnetic pads and the lights are stuck to those magnets. And then you route your wiring up to the front and you plug it in. This is something you're gonna have to set up every time you want to use it though. So that's why I like the diode wiring better 'cause once it's installed, it's just hidden inside of your vehicle. You can't see it and you've got a connector at the front that you just simply have to plug into. With the magnetic lights as well, you have to have a magnetic surface to put it on. And this here is not gonna be magnetic. So you have to like stick it on the side or something weird. So it just doesn't work that great on all vehicles either. Whereas your diode wiring works on pretty much everything. We're now at the front of the vehicle here so you can see our connection. Our customer opted for the six-way connector at the front. And again, that's the most common because you're gonna get more than just your lighting signals in here. You have two extra circuits for options for additional accessories. And our customer also purchased a charge line kit and we we're able to utilize one of the extra holes here and our six-way to get that set up as well. So that way the vehicle's being charged when it's driven down the road. Now the charge line kit doesn't come included with it. It is an extra thing, but that is one accessory that you might wanna consider going with a six-way four, so you can add that over a four way. I do have the various cables here to show you for the various kits. So here we've got our four flat. If you get that kit, this is the connector you'll get for that. So you can plug in, just your simple four flat on the vehicle. We also have our four round here and this is a seven to four round. So that way you can plug into the seven way on your motorhome and a four round on your vehicle. You have no additional accessory slots with this though. Then we've got our seven to sixes here and we've got a couple of different styles. Our customers using the coiled version. That way, it just hangs and it keeps it up off the road being coiled. This is our hybrid version from Roadmaster here. And the reason we would consider a hybrid version is if you've got a tow bar like the Falcon All Terrain, which has channels that run down the side. The straight portion, you can run down the side of that tow bar and then you've got a small coiled end here for the other side to be able to plug into the back. This is useful if you're using a high-low adapter and stuff like this 'cause you get extended distance. So you need the small coiled section to reach. If you don't need a high-low adapter though, and you got just the tow bar with channels, then a regular straight cable will work out great for you 'cause you can run it through the channels and it should be able to reach your connectors just fine. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle. We'll need to remove both our driver and passenger side taillight assemblies. To remove these assemblies, the fastener that holds it in place is actually right inside here. So we've got everything open up in the back. So just inside here, we're on the driver's side, just inside where the window opening would be in the back hatch. There's a cover right here. That's where you're gonna find your fastener for your light. So just take a flat bladed screwdriver and just pop that cover up. There's a single plastic fastener inside of there that you're gonna remove using a 10 millimeter socket. And then we'll just pull right out of there. And then our taillight assembly will come out. We'll do the same thing to get the other side removed. So your assembly just pulls straight out. You gotta wiggle it little bit just to get the tabs to release. You can see there's a little clip there. Here's our connector, we're gonna push back on the lock tab there, then press down on the button and we can get our connector disconnected. And we'll just set our light on the inside there. So now we'll take the harness that comes in your kit. Now there's a couple of different ways you can get this harness. If you purchase the kit that comes with the four flat, just cut that off of there for the back here. You won't need it here at the back. You may want it at the front if you're gonna use a four flat to your motorhome. So you have that connected on the other side, we can wrap that up to the front. Now the other options you have for this harness, they won't have the four flat on them. All the other ones are designed for different connectors. So they just come bare like this and we need to bare here at the back anyway. Before we feed it into the open hole here, we're gonna take the green wire and just snip right there between them and then just peel back the green. That way when we feed this up, we'll be able to take the green and run it over to the other side. To feed it up, you're gonna go behind the wheel here and we're just gonna poke it in near our shock and grab it until it pulls through. After I pull it through, I like to take a cable tie and attach it to the factory wiring there. That way it can't fall back down. It makes it easier to work with. I then sniped the white wire, just like we did the green to peel the white off a little bit. We're gonna do the same thing between the brown and yellow. Peel each one of these back. There we go, and then strip each one of these. So we're gonna strip each and every one of them. With your white and your brown, you might wanna strip just a little bit more back on those two than you do on the yellow. The yellow's gonna go into a single spade terminal by itself but our white and our brown here, we're actually gonna twist these together and use a small section of our white wire as a jumper wire to get our taillight signaling, which is our brown wire. Get that signal jumped over to the passenger side. So that way the tail lights will work on each side. And once we get it stripped here, there's a lot of different layers of coding on these. So a lot of times you strip off the clear layer first and then the next layer. So these are a little bit particular on the type of strippers you use with them sometimes. So here we go. We've got those separated brown and white. Twist together. Yellow, just give that a twist. And here we'll grab our diodes. So you're gonna get three diodes with blue spade terminals like this, and you'll get one that has a single yellow terminal. That's the one we're concerned with right here. So we're just gonna grab the yellow and we're also gonna grab the blue off of there. We're gonna take the yellow and put that over the two twisted together. There's a larger opening here to accommodate the dual wires and then we'll crimp this in place. And then on our yellow wire here, that's just gonna get a single blue spade terminal and then we can crimp this in place. All right, so we've got our wiring that we ran prepared. Now we need to prepare the factory wiring on our vehicle here. So we're gonna go ahead and take this little attachment. It doesn't even really clip into anything. We're just gonna get rid of that. Be careful not to cut your wires when you're cutting the clip. We're just barely cutting the plastic there. And now we're gonna take a razor knife or just unpeel this whichever way we need to expose these wires. So we're just carefully cutting the sheathing off. I like to just use a razor blade in my hand, get a little more fidelity with it that way, but we're trying to be careful not to cut into our wiring, just to cut the sheathing. I'll do a little cut, a little peel. We'll go back and forth between those two methods to get this going. Once you get a little bit further along, it starts to go easier. Starting is usually the hardest part. They seem to like double and triple wrap it right here at the beginning. So it takes a little bit more to get into it. All right, so we got it peeled back. We've got plenty to work with now. So the wires that we're looking for here are the ones in pin one and the ones in pin four. And they're actually labeled here on the backside. I'll see if we can, they're very small, but you can see that's a one in the corner indicating that's pin one. And then there's a seven there indicating that that's pin seven and it would go 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and then the bottom are 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. So I like using pin numbers just in case wire colors change. Pin numbers are gonna be consistent. So pins one and four on the driver's side here. Pin one is gonna be yellow and pin four is gonna be this white with gray. The yellow is our stop turn circuit. And the white with gray is our taillight circuit. So we're gonna pull both of those out of there. Grab our cutters here and then we're just gonna cut them. I'm gonna cut it about this point. I like to leave enough excess on each side. So we've got plenty to work with there and then we're gonna strip back each of these. Once you've got each of them stripped, these are all going to get a blue spade terminal. So just grab your other diodes, just pull those blue spade terminals off of there. And then we're gonna connect to one to each of these. I like to twist the wires before I connect them just 'cause it makes sure that no stray strands poke out the backside or anything that could potentially cause some sort of short. So you can see a stray strand poking out on this one. Those things you want to avoid. That's how you get shorts and things like that by having a stray one. So we're just gonna twist them, bring it in line, and then get it crimped down. And while you've got these disconnected from one another, the wires get twisted up amongst themselves, the other wires do. This way you can peel out the specific wires we're working with out of there. All right, so we've got each of those connected. We're gonna make sure we separate these just a little bit to make it easier to work with. There we go. We've got those separated out. So now we'll take our diodes and connect them. You'll see the diode has an in and an out. The out has a single terminal and the in here has two terminals. The out's always gonna go towards your connector side towards the bulb. So we're gonna plug in the out here to the yellow wire or factory yellow wire. And then we're gonna take our other factory yellow wire where we'd cut it and plug that other side into the end. We'll now take our other diode and same thing. The out is gonna go towards the connector or the bulb. And we're just connecting our wires that we cut basically back together. Now we'll take our wires that we routed and connect those to the diodes. Our yellow wire is gonna connect to the same wire. That's yellow over here on the factory because that's for our left stop and turn. Just peel out a little bit more. And then our brown and white combination we've got here is for our taillight circuit. So we're gonna plug that into here. So that way, this is also our taillight circuit. Our motorhome can provide the taillight signals there. Now for our backing here, I like to just peel these off and stick them together. This way we still got plenty of length to pull our assemblies out if we need to. And then we can just take this and use some cable ties to secure up all the loose wiring in here. We can now take our taillight assembly. Go ahead and plug your connector back in, push your lock tab down. And then you can just reinstall the taillight assembly on this side. Now for our green wire that we had down there that we left down below. What I like to do with that green wire is I'll just drag it over to that side. You're probably gonna have to peel more of it off and I'll just lay it across the bottom and then I'll pull it up just so I know that I've got enough green wire. I'm not actually fully routing it. I'm just test routing it. I'm just pulling it over, pulling it up. I can see that it's gonna be enough there. After that, I'll take that green wire and I lay it back down the line so I can find an even spot to cut my white wire. I'll show you what I'm talking about with this little scrap we got here. So we got the green that's still hanging there. I'll peel this off until I can stretch it over and up just to make sure I got enough length. Then I'll take that amount that I've tested that reaches over there. And I fold it back on the line like this. And then where it stops, that's where I'll cut my white wire. That way I know that the white wire we've got on this side is gonna be the same length as my green to make its way over to the passenger side there. So we'll go ahead and show you the passenger side where we've made our connections, then I'll lift it up and show you how I route it over there. So you already hit the passenger side. We've already got it hooked up. It's almost exactly the same on this side. You're still gonna use pins one and four. The wire colors change over on this side though. It's green for pin one and white with an orange stripe for pin four. We cut them exactly like we did on the other side. And we routed our white and our green wire up here. The green wire is our passenger side stop/turn. And that's the same as the green wire here on the factory wire. So it just pokes right into there. The white wire we routed over, remember we connected it to the brown wire on that side. That's our taillight circuit. And that just connects right in here with the white and orange, which is our taillight circuit on our vehicle here. So we're gonna cable tie these together and we can get this side reinstalled. Now, when you tie in these down, you do wanna be careful not to over tighten them. It is just a plastic fastener. I know this tool here doesn't put out a whole lot. We only probably put a couple of foot pounds of torque on it there, and that's all that it's gonna get. And then you can reinstall your caps. We're now underneath the vehicle, so you can see how we routed the wiring. So our wiring here, this is where it goes up behind the driver's side taillight assembly. You can see the brown, the yellow, and the white here. Those go across the other side along with the single green wire. There's two bolts right here on the heat shield. I took these nuts off right there and right there. And then I could just tuck the wiring above the heat shield to keep it away from the exhaust and just went across the other side. And over here, you can see the two wires that we routed over the green. And then that white wire that we use is our jumper wire we routed over. Just go up above the frame and then next to the shock again, we poked it up to get behind the taillight assembly. The rest of our wiring we're gonna take towards the front of the vehicle, so it's right here. We've got, you can see everything, but the white wire because there's a small section of that white wire that's being used as a jumper over there. So we take the rest of them and then we run them forward. I zip tied to the factory wiring here 'cause we wanna avoid anything excessively hot like our exhaust and any moving components like our suspension. So we go up above the suspension, again, cable table tie it to a factory wire there. Once we get up to here, we poke it in the hole in the frame and we'll come out on the other side and then just stay in the frame going forward. So here you can see, this is the other side of the hole. The hole we poked it in is a little bit further back. So we do have to go forward some and then we pulled the wire out this hole. The reason we pulled the wires out this hole is so we can get access to that white wire. This is the rest of the white wire where we had cut it, heading up to the front. We can get our ground right here. So we'll take our wiring here, I did put like a cut up a 90 degree bend in it there that'll help keep it from falling back in. And then we can strip this wire and we'll install our ring terminal on it. Once you've got it stripped back, we'll take the small ring terminal that comes in our kit, slide it on there, and then we can crimp it down. And now if you're wire didn't poke out the hole like this, you can get ground really at any point here on the frame. We just happen to notice that this hole right here is just a good spot for us to get our ground right here. So you could easily use it one further forward or further back or any place like that. And then we'll take the self-tapping screw now. We're gonna run it through the ring terminal and then just attach our wire. All right, so we got our ring terminal attached, we decided this area here. The lip was a little bit sharp on the inside. So I decided not to mount it there. We're gonna mount it to this side plate right here. So we can just put it right here and then we'll use the self-tapping screw that it comes provided with to run into place. So we'll just slide our self tapper now through our ring terminal. We'll use an eight millimeter socket to run it into place. Just wanna make sure your ring terminal doesn't rotate. See, we got a little bit of rotate out of it. So we need to go just a little bit tighter. There we go, that's nice and solid. There's no rotation. And that goes into our hole pretty well. We got a little bit of slack there, so it shouldn't rub on those corners. So yeah, we should be good to go from there. The rest of our wiring, we stay inside the frame and we just poke it from hole to hole. I'll poke it down a little bit, I'll pull it out, an easy access hole, pull it through, then I'll poke it back in, go to the next hole and so on so forth until we get to the hole right here behind the front tire. This hole right here. From here, we went ahead and just routed it straight up. Now you could potentially continue right on top of the frame, just all the way forward. It depends on the braking system you're planning on to install. If your braking system requires diode wiring, then I'd recommend routing it up. If it doesn't require diode wiring, then you can just keep it down here on the bottom. Our customers currently use a portable system, so it doesn't actually need the diode wiring, but if he wants to upgrade in the future to a more permanent one, many of those require it. So I'm gonna route it up there for him, just for the future. And here's our diode wiring here where it came up. We used the cable tie and attach it to a factory wiring right there. And then we just stayed going forward, going around our ABS module. Then we go down underneath the washer fluid reservoir here, and it comes out just right over here on the side of the washer reservoir. We just go slightly forward and then just poke it down next to the frame there to get it to go down below. Now once you have it routed down below, you can just reach underneath your panel here and we just poked it out next to the opening for our base plate wiring here just poked it right out the side. And then we're bringing it out the mounting point here in the front. This came included with our base plate. If your base plate that you're using doesn't have a mounting plate for your wiring, then you can get no drill brackets and there's different bracketry you can get here at etrailer. You can get six pole, four pole, whichever one that you're planning on intended to use. Six pole is the most common. Then we just poked our wires through this hole here and now we're ready to assemble our connector here at the front. Now, if you had the four pole kit, we did start with the four pole kit, but we cut our end off 'cause our customer's gonna switch to a six pole. If you we're doing just a four pole, you're basically done. You can just zip tie up or cable tie up your wiring or install a mounting bracket for a four pole, whichever here in the front. But again, the most common type is a six pole. So we're gonna be swapping it over to that six pole here. Now the kit the customer bought doesn't come with a six-way connector, but they purchased one additionally to go with the kit. A lot of times that six-way connector comes with your tow bar. So you just wanna just verify if you're getting one of those with some of the other parts you've purchased, or if you need that separately. We also sell that in kits. So you can get your wiring with that connector in it as well. Just comes in a lot of options because you can potentially get that with some other items. So I'm gonna go ahead and grab that connector and we'll show you how to get that installed. You might notice there's an extra red wire here. This is for a charge line kit. If you're gonna have any extra accessories you're gonna attach to your six way, I'd recommend running those two so you can get all those connected. That's why a six-way is usually the most common 'cause if you're just using a four flat, all you're gonna get your lighting signals. You don't have any other options. The six-way will give you a couple of extra slots to use for additional accessories like our charge line here. So to get our connector connected here, we're gonna go ahead and take our wiring and we're gonna shorten it up. I like to leave enough to where I can pull the connector out in the future if I need to make any repairs. So we'll do probably something about like this. It's also nice if we're gonna be adding any accessories later in the future and stuff to be able to pull this thing out of it slot a little. So we're just cutting off the excess. We're also gonna cut off the excess for our charge line. And our charge line wire, if you guys are installing a charge line, I've got the wire routed from the circuit breaker that comes in the kit, but I do not have it hooked up to the battery. I recommend you don't hook it up to the battery yet. So that way this wire's not live. So now we've got them all trimmed. Go ahead and grab your connector and pull the boot off the back. Slide your boot on your wiring. Slide that up in there. And now we'll take our wiring and take each of these and separate them from one another. And then we're gonna strip each one of these back. All right, now we've got them all stripped back. I like to twist each one. So we don't have any stray strands. And on the back of our connector, it is going to have labels on it. The labels are hard to see 'cause the screw head is right above the label, but we're gonna start with ground, which should be labeled G, which is right there. G for ground. GD actually is what they have on there. We're gonna loosen up this screw. Ground is our white wire that we've routed so we'll need that. Then we're just gonna rotate over to the next one. Next is LT, that's left turn. That's gonna be our yellow wire. So we'll need this one, unscrew this one. Next we have RT, which is right turn, which is our green wire, so we'll need this one. Next, we have S which is for a brake controller output or it's often used for like monitor lights or other accessories. We're not gonna use that one today, so just move on. Now we have TM. That is our taillight wiring, which is our brown wire, so we'll unscrew that. And then if you have a charge line kit, if you're installing one of those today, make sure you unscrew your center pin for your charge line. All right, we've got everything disconnected. Now we're just gonna insert the wires and screw them back down. Making sure that our screw is screwing into the wire, not onto the sheathing of the wire 'cause you won't have a good connection. Also you wanna ensure that no stray strands are present 'cause you can get shorts between the various pins here if you have stray strands. So yeah, GD, poke it in. Then next was LT's for yellow. So we're gonna grab our yellow one here and poke it in. Tighten it down. Next is green. All right. Next, we have S. We're not using that one. Then TM, we are using that. That's our brown wire. All right. And lastly, we've got our center pin here, slide our charge line into there and then tighten this one down. So now that we have all of our connections made, we're gonna use a generous amount of dialectic grease to seal this up and prevent any corrosion. Slide your dust boot into place and then we can mount up our connector. Our connector is gonna mount using the hardware that came provided with our base plate for mounting it into this bracket here. So we're just gonna use that hardware, slide it through our connector, through our bracket and then place the nut on the other side. We'll do the same thing with the other side of our connector here. All right, now we've got all those started. We can go ahead and zip those down and we're just gonna use a 10 millimeter wrench to hold the nut on the backside and our Phillips to snug it down. All right. So now we've got our connector here fully hooked up. It's time to test it out, make sure everything's gonna work properly. So I've just gone ahead and plugged it into our test box here, which is gonna simulate all the signals that would come from your motorhome. And if you're doing it at this home, you can just plug right into your motorhome and use that to test everything out. You'll want to verify you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, taillights, and brake lights. With all of our lighting signals working properly, we're ready to hook up to our motorhome and hit the road. And that completes our look at Roadmaster's diode wiring kit on our 2022 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..


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