bing tracking image

Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2022 Buick Encore GX

content loading

Customers compare RM-154 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2022 Buick Encore GX


Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2022 Buick Encore GX, we're gonna be showing you how to install the Roadmaster diode wiring kit. But before we do that, why don't we check it out and make sure that this is gonna work for you So before we jump right in, and start talking about the diode wiring kit, I figured it would be useful just to refresh ourselves and touch base on the five main components that we're gonna need to flat tow our Buick down the road in the first place. First one's gonna be your base plate. That's gonna provide us with a solid and reliable attachment point. That way we can hook our tow bar up to it.

The tow bar is going to be the physical link that actually connects the front of your Buick, to the back of your motor home. The third main component is going to be safety cables, and those are there in the event of an unlikely disconnect. Those are gonna keep everything paired together. The fourth main component is going to be your tow bar wiring. And so that's gonna be the wiring that transfers the lighting functions from the back of your motor home, to the back of your Buick.

Not only keeping you safe, but legal as well. And last but not least, the fifth main component is going to be a supplemental braking system. What that's gonna do is apply the brakes in your SUV, whenever you hit the brakes in your RV, and that's gonna help bring you to a predictable and complete stop. Well, with that said, the way the diode wiring kit is gonna work is those signals are gonna be translated here to the back of your Buick, from the back of your motor home. So today we don't have our motor home, so we're really not able to hook directly up and show it to you but you can get an idea of how that's gonna work.

So imagine, let's say, if you're hooked up to your motor home and we had the right turn signal going, that's what would happen back here. Same thing for the left turn, the running lights, and the brake lights. So we're gonna have all these proper signals, to stay a little bit safer. And when it comes to wiring, there's a couple of different options. My go-to almost every single time, is the diode wiring kit.

I say that because you're not even gonna be able to notice it's there once it's installed, and it's gonna be super easy to hook up, which is really important to a lot of people. Essentially, once it's all hooked up, all you're gonna have to do is plug it in. So it doesn't take any time at all. Anyone can figure it out. Compared to other types of wiring kits, for example, like the magnetic lighting, those work just fine, but they're kind of a pain, honestly, you have a big bundle of wire, you're gonna have lights that you need to stick onto the body of your vehicle, 'cause they're magnetic, and that's something you're gonna have to set up every single time you want to take your car out. So, put the lights on here, run your wires up, drape them all the way across your roof, hook up to your motor home, and not to mention when you get to your destination, undo all that stuff and then store a big bundle of wires. All that's not really necessary. If you use a kit like the diode kit, it's something you're really not gonna have to have to worry about doing. So speaking of that easy use, here upfront, this is gonna be the connector plug that you can plug your cable into. So one end will plug into it, and the other end will plug into your motor home. So there's several different kits available, and you're gonna want to make sure you get the one that's best for you. So for example, today, we originally started with, the four way flat connector end to four way flat connector end. And this is a kind of kit we don't see very often, people using them, a lot of motor homes now, have the seven way round type connectors, but if your motor home uses this and you don't plan on using any other accessories, like a charge line, battery charge line for example, this will work. So, originally this kit had this end on it, and you'd plug this into it. This into the back of the motor home. But one alternative is, if a kit's out of stock or something like that, and you want the six way round, you can always just buy the 6 way round connector, cut the end off, cut one of the four ends off the kit and do that, and that's exactly what we did. With that said, there's kits available that you won't have to do that. There's a kit that comes with no connector plug. So, just the wiring and the diodes and your basics. And you would use that kit if you already had the connector plug, and some type of umbilical. A lot of times some of the more premiere tow bars will actually come with the umbilical and the connector plug. And if that's your case, that'd be the kit you'd want to grab, where it's just the wiring and the diodes and the basics. There's also kits that come with everything, the wiring, the diodes, your connector plug, as well as the umbilical and which one you're gonna want to use really just depends on your situation. So this one, for example, six way round, seven way round to the motor home, and this one's called a hybrid. So you have part of the cable that is coiled, and the rest of it's straight. And you would want to use this kit if, your tow bar had channels in it, on the side of it, that way you could run the straight part through and utilize those channels. And this one's especially useful if you happen to have, a lot of distance in between your tow bar, I'm sorry, in between your towed vehicle and your motor home, because this one's probably the longest out of all of them. With that said, there's also a cable that is just completely straight, right So this is gonna be like this, six way round, seven way round. And again, you'd use that if your tow bar had channels in it, and then there's just the classic coiled cable. Six way round, seven way round. And this one you'd want to use if your tow bar does not have channels in it, because that coiled action there will keep it high off the ground whenever you're going straight, and will stretch out and give you that extra length whenever you're going around turns. So that's an option for you as well, and they make one more kit. Cables very, very similar to this. It's coiled, with the exception of, it's a four-way round type connector, to a seven way round for the motor home side. So, again, that's an odd one, we don't really see that often but, there's always that scenario where that's your case, and if that's the situation you're in, that's someone you can always grab. So at the end of the day, if you're trying to set up a flat tow, this is definitely my top recommendation as far as wiring goes, it's just the easiest to use. And it's been really reliable. We don't really ever run into tiny issues with them for the most part. As far as the installation goes, not too bad. I mean, everything's pretty straight forward. It's just time consuming. Having to wrap the wires from the front to the back, and up into the tail lights and everything else. But the good news is, you're only gonna have to do it once. And then you're done and good to go. So as long as you spend a little bit time on it and stay focused, really shouldn't run into any issues. But speaking of that, why don't we go ahead and install it together now To begin our installation, we're gonna be here at the front of our Buick. And obviously we have the front end taken apart, and that's because we're doing this the same time that we're doing our base plate. That's what I advise doing. But, with that said, if yours is together, this can be done just a little bit trickier. You don't have as much room. So if you're actually needing a four way flat end, you would simply just mount this up. Usually your base plate will have a connector or a piece where you can mount this up, like ours does here. In our case though, our customer needs a six way round. So, there's kits available that have the six way round. In our case, they we're out of stock. So this is a way. There's a way around that. You can actually turn this one into a kit that uses this connector. So that's what we're gonna do. With that said, though, we're gonna get rid of this four way flat. We're just gonna cut the wires, get rid of that connector end. Then we're gonna strip the insulation back on each wire, a little ways. Like that and once you have them stripped, go ahead and give them a good twist to keep them nice and tight. That'll help ensure we get a good connection. So I'll do that to all four of them here. Once I have that done, then we can work on our connector plugs, so I'll grab it. And the way that the connector plug is gonna work, it's pretty straight forward. We're gonna have terminals on the back, and those terminals see where the wires are gonna go to the particular terminals. So I'll go ahead, grab a screwdriver. And that way we can get started, I'll show you how to do it. So you're gonna want to use a small Phillips head screwdriver like this, and you're gonna back out the set screws. So you want to pull them out almost all the way. Try to leave them in there though 'cause if they come out, they're hard to see and a lot of times they'll drop and have a hard time finding it. But with that said, they're gonna be labeled. We're gonna be using four out of six. We're gonna be using this one here, which is labeled TM for taillight. So our brown wire will go to it. GD for ground, so the white wire will go here. LT for left turn, so the yellow wire will go to it. And RT for right turn, so the green wire will go there. So I'll drag my wiring. I'm gonna loop this underneath. I think it'll look a little bit better, but we're just gonna take the appropriate wire, and place it into the terminal. So we'll do the brown one for TM. So that just plugs in. We hold it in place and tighten down that set screw. We're gonna repeat that process for our three remaining wires. So this is what your connector plugs gonna look like, once it's all hooked up. Now, usually before you hook this up, you're gonna put on the dust cover. I forgot, not a big deal. We'll just come to the other end of our wiring, cut that end off. We'll take our cover and just work it all the way down the wire. That way we can plug it onto the back of our connector plug and not have to worry about taking those wires back out or anything else like that. Also you want to make sure that your wires aren't knotted. So that'll plug over this. I usually like to put some dielectric grease or something in there to help protect the terminals. But I usually wait to the very end, once you verify everything is working. That way, if there's an issue, we're not dealing with a bunch of sticky grease and everything. So we'll put it over this for now. We can always come back and add some electric grease and tape up the ends and everything else. So I went ahead and just secured our connector here to the bracket, using a couple self tapping screws. Then we can start to route our wiring. So I just ran it along through here, where it goes through our base plate, side plate there. And then I routed ours right up this wiring, behind our headlight, into the engine compartment. So in the engine compartment, here's where our wiring comes up and around through here. Now I do want to mention, if you're gonna be installing a braking system that requires a tap into the diode wiring, probably leave yourself a good foot of slack somewhere in this area. It just makes it easier to work with, but in our case, we're not so, I just continued along through here and dropped it right down along the firewall to the underside of our vehicle. And when you're doing this, make sure you can do your best to avoid any hot or moving parts. So underneath our vehicle, this is where our wiring is gonna come down. Use zip ties along the way to keep it secure. I just followed our brake lines here. So that's gonna come on down, just continue to follow those lines. And then once you get here in this area, we need to ground our white wire. And this is a good spot, some nice thick steel out of the way. So I think that's what I'm gonna do. So what we can do, so you can grab the other end of your wire, and I started to do it, but you can grab the white wire and just start to peel it. Peel it off the rest of the wiring here. And we're gonna bring this all the way up to where we're going with it here. And I'm choosing to do it back here, 'cause we're gonna need a length of wire later on in the installation. So instead of having to worry about getting one separately, we can do it like this and reuse this white wire. So this is gonna eyeball our distance here. Probably somewhere in this area, so cut that back, strip the insulation off, give that wire a twist. And take this ring terminal, slide it over, crimp it down. And you're gonna take this screw. That's how we're gonna secure it. So I'm gonna hold this up where I need it to go, and run our screw through. With that connected though, I'll continue to route our wiring towards the back of our vehicle, and I'll show you what it looks like once I'm done. So I continue to route. Wire goes up over our rear axle here around through here. Once I got to this point, what I did was separate all the green wire off of the yellow and brown wire, and routed that over to the passenger side. But while I did that, I also took that extra piece of white wire that we had cut and ran that over there as well. So that goes over there. The other end of the white wire, I just taped to our yellow and brown, and these are gonna hang here for now. But eventually these three wires are gonna get pulled up into the driver's side taillight pocket. These wires I just ran behind our bumper beam, I'll come back in a sec and zip tie them up, but they're gonna run up through here, and drop down right here. So I'll get those zip tied and then we can go up top, get our lights and everything out. That way we can get our wires up to where we can get them hooked up. So up top to get our taillights removed, you're gonna open up your hatch, you're gonna have these plastic covers, and you take a pick or a flat head, pop them open. That's gonna expose a T-15 fastener underneath. Pull those out. It's got in there pretty deep. So we'll just leave it in there and grab it. We can actually pull the light out. Now you're just going to work it, gently rocking it and applying pressure to the back. It is gonna be tight, so. Once we get it to come free, we can get it disconnected. So you're just gonna take these connectors there, and turn them to the left. This one up here, there's actually an electrical connector in there. Push down on that, separate it, set our light off to the side, and do the same thing to get the other one out. So now we can get the wires set up to get our diodes installed. I went ahead and just pulled back the tape here on them and tested the wiring. We we're looking for our taillight signal, and our brake light signal, which that happens to be the green wire here and the red wire. So the green wire is going to be our taillight signal, and the red wire is gonna be for our stop and turn. So with that said, we need to cut these. Let's cut them in half. And we need to strip back the insulation on each wire. So you're gonna do that. Give each wire a twist, then you're gonna put on, on each one of these ends, one of these blue terminals. So we'll slide over, and get it crimped down. So with all those ends done up, you can take your diodes now. Diode that has a single terminal labeled out. You're gonna connect that to the end closest to our bulb there. Like so. Then we'll just go color for color. So red to red, green to green, and then what I've done to get our wires from underneath pulled up. I'm just using a pull wire so this is a piece of tube, that you can use like a coat hanger and drop it down. You can see it down there, I just connected our wires to it. It makes it really easy to pull them up, wherever you need them to go. So what I'm gonna do here is, hold these up and I'm just gonna zip tie them up here. That way they don't want to fall back down under our car and you have all the proper length that we need to work with here. Trim these to length. And just like the other ends, we're gonna strip all the installation back. With the white and brown wire, we're gonna do something a little bit different. So with the white and brown wire, we're gonna connect them together, so you're gonna twist them together like this nice and tight. And then you're gonna use one of the yellow spade connectors there. Put that over, crimp it down, just like the others. And with the yellow wire, this one's gonna get just a standard blue terminal there. Nothing really too special about this one. Put that over, crimp it down and then we can hook it to our diode. So the green wire is for our taillight signal. So we're gonna take these two wires and plug them in. And since the red is our stop and turn, we're gonna take our yellow wire and plug it into there. So I went ahead and stuck our diodes together, now we can simply plug everything back in, if we can get it to line up here. Once we get everything plugged back in now, we'll simply just re-install our tail light, the opposite way that'd be removed it. So over here on the passenger side, essentially do the same exact thing, the factory color of the wires are identical, green for tail, red for stop and turn. And I hooked them up the same way except, the colors of the new wires that ran are different. The white wire is gonna control our taillight signal. So that's plugged into the diode that has the OEM, the factory green wire, and the new green wire is gonna control our stop and turn. So that's plugged into the diode that has the factory red wire. So, all set up the same. So once you have it all hooked up, we'll go ahead and get this light re-installed as well. So now it's a good idea to test your wiring, and make sure it's working properly. So I just plugged it into a test box. You can also use your motor home, but keep in mind if your motor home has wiring issues, it's gonna translate over to the car. So that said, I have our tail lights turned on, go ahead and click on our left turn, our right turn, and our brake lights. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Roadmaster diode wiring kit on our 2022 Buick Encore GX..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.