bing tracking image

Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RM-152-98146-7 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Hey everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit here on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. So a diode wiring kit is going to fall under the category of a tow bar wiring, which is just one of the many things you need in order to successfully flat tow your Jeep. Now, there's quite a few different options in regards to that tow bar wiring. The diodes, however, are best, in my opinion. So the reason I like the diode wiring kit is that it actually uses our factory tail lights here. Therefore, we don't have to worry about draping any lights over the vehicle, like some of the magnetic kind and we don't have to worry about actually drilling into or modifying our tail light housing like some of the bulb and socket kits.

The diode kit, as we said, is gonna use the factory tail lamps here and we're actually running our own wires from the rear to the front of the vehicle. Now, with the integrated diodes, these are gonna do a great job of help protecting your Jeep here. That way you don't have to worry about any issues with the motor home wiring or lights affecting our vehicle lights here. So it does this by stopping the back full of electricity. It's only gonna let electricity flow through the diode, one way.

Therefore, you don't have to worry about issues with the motor home, again, affecting your Jeep here. So this kit here is gonna pretty much give us all the basic signals that we need to remain legal. So it's going to transfer the running light circuit from the motor home to the vehicle, as well as, the stop and turn signal circuits for either side. Now there isn't a reverse circuit, but you're really not gonna be reversing too much here when you're attached to your motor home. So this is a complete kit.

It's gonna come with everything you need down to the wires, the diodes in your electrical connectors. Such as, those miscellaneous butt connectors, ring terminals and even a self-tapping screw for the ground. So this is a complete kit, it's gonna have everything you need which is one of the reasons I really like it. The only thing you will need, in regards to tools, is gonna be just a handheld set of wire crimpers and cutters. We do have a cost effective option here at etrailer.

If you'd like to pick this up along with your kit. So our kit is also gonna come with an umbilical cord, which is pretty much the electrical connector that bridges the motor home and the vehicle here. Now, we have a couple different options for that. We have a straight cable and then we have a hybrid cable. So these particular options are gonna be designed for tow bars that have those integrated channels for you to run your cables through and basically what that does is, you make sure your cord doesn't get tangled up in everything and it also keeps it off the ground here so you're not dragging it and damaging it. These are very durable cables, but you obviously wouldn't wanna drag it going down the road. Now the main difference between these two here is that this one has a coiled end, it's a hybrid. So this is still gonna go through the tow bar channel, see here on this end. But then we have a coiled end here which connects to the motor home. So, you can see the straight cable, there's not a ton of slack, but with some setups there is a little bit more slack here than you'd want normally and in which case you would go with the hybrid cable. I like the hybrid cable a lot. They're both great options here though for tow barring with the integrated channels. So in regards to the actual connectors that this kit comes with. It's gonna come with a seven to six-way. So the seven-way part is gonna be on the motor home. Pretty much all motor homes are wired with a seven-way. At least a lot of the newer ones, so it's gonna plug right into that. And then we're gonna be wiring in a six-way on the vehicle. Now, the reason we have a six-way is there's actually an extra terminal there if we wanna run a battery charge line. Which basically just charges our Jeep's battery from our motor home while we're towing. It doesn't actually come with that, that is a separate part, but having that extra terminal open allows you to run it through the umbilical cord, so you don't have to run a separate wire. So, it's just a nice added convenience, should we choose to add a charge line to our system. So in regards to installation nothing here is particularly challenging. It's definitely something a do-it-yourselfer can do. It's pretty much just gonna take you some time. We mentioned that one tool you will need, but aside from that you're pretty much gonna have everything with your kit here. The bulk of the installation is just gonna be running a wire from the front to the rear, but aside from that, everything's straight forward. We'll go jump in into that now. So the first step of our installation, we need to find a spot on the front of the vehicle here to mount our trailer connector. Now, I sort of mapped out what location is gonna be best. I'm gonna be mounting it up in this corner here just directly beside our license plate. We need to go up as far as possible because there's a cross beam behind there that could interfere with our trailer connector if we don't go up high enough. So, I just kind of marked it out here in this little divot, but now I'm actually gonna remove this panel from the vehicle there. That way we can mark our hole and then secure our trailer connector while it's off the vehicle. So now we're gonna take our skid shield here and if you remember that mark, we made earlier. We're gonna take a step drill bit and we're gonna drill this out to around seven eighths to an inch diameter. We just need to allow enough thickness for our wires to pass through and then, obviously, the outer body of our connector. So, we'll take out about seven eighths of an inch. I'll test fit our connector there and then we'll trim more as needed. So you can see we have our hole made now. We'll just go ahead and take our connector here and sort of test fit it, and it fits pretty good right in there. We do have enough clearance for our lid there. So that's good. What I'm gonna do next is I'm gonna take a paint marker here and I'm going to mark either side of these holes here. Try to get it in the center as best we can, just like that. And then I'm gonna remove this. I'm gonna come back with a three-sixteenths inch drill bit and I'm gonna drill out those two holes there. That way we can fasten our trailer connector here to this panel using the provided hardware. So now that we have both of our holes drilled, we'll just take our trailer connector there, drop it into place, and then secure it with our provided hardware. So now that we have the connector secure, we're gonna take our wiring harness here. I'm gonna peel back each of these strands here, a few inches or so and then I'm going to strip some of the jacket off each of these to reveal the copper wire underneath. You only need to strip off about a quarter inch or so. We don't need a whole lot. We don't actually want a whole lot either 'cause that could actually lead to issues with these circuits jumping and shorting out. So, just a quarter inch is really all we want. And then we're gonna twist these strands nice and tight there, so the wires don't try to fray when we insert them into the terminals. That should be perfect. Now we're gonna need a small Phillips head screwdriver. Because we're gonna be attaching these into each one of the terminals there on the back of our connector. Before we do that though, I wanna go ahead and slip on this boot before I forget. Just like so. And then each of these are gonna be labeled. They're going to correspond to one of these wires. So this one here, it says GD, it is kind of hard to read. But we're just gonna loosen the screw. Don't remove it all the way because when they fall out they're pretty hard to find. So. That one is labeled GD. So I know that's gonna be for my ground. I'm just gonna take the wire there, stick it into the terminal and then tighten down that screw. We're gonna repeat the same process for our other three wires. The turn signal is labeled TM. Left turn. Which is for the yellow wire is LT and right turn, which is for the green wire, is gonna be RT. Now once we have all of our connections made, we're gonna come back with some RTV silicone. We do actually sell this, it's pretty generic stuff though. So you can actually get it in town as well at most local auto parts stores. It's called RTV Gasket Maker and there's a couple different companies that offer that. So it's fairly common. We're basically, we're just sealing up all these contacts in here. So the trailer connectors on the front of the vehicle. It's gonna get subjected to the elements, there could possibly get water in there and we don't want water to get in there 'cause what that's gonna do is that's gonna corrode and give us sliding issues. So by sealing this up, we're gonna keep that water out of there as best as we can. That way we don't have any headaches to deal with down the road. But once we get all that silicone on there, we're gonna take our boot, we're just gonna slide that over the connector. Just like that. So next, we're gonna reinstall our skid shield here. You're gonna take your wiring harness and you're just gonna slip it up and over this metal cross beam. This was the one I was talking about earlier. So you just wanna feed your wires over that and then we can just simply reinstall our panel. So now we're gonna take our wiring harness here and we're gonna route it back to the rear of the vehicle there because we're gonna be splicing into our taillight circuits. Now you wanna make sure you avoid any moving components, such as the suspension, or any components that get hot, such as our exhaust. We'll be using some zip ties that come in your kit to secure it along the way. We're gonna go ahead and knock that out now and then we'll show you the path that we took. So here you can see our wiring harness coming from the back of the trailer connector. Now, in your kit you are gonna get a couple feet of the wire loom and I just use that here for the first couple feet of our harness. So that's probably why you can't see those colored wires, but now we're just gonna follow this all the way back to the rear of the vehicle. So we're gonna come up and over. There's gonna be some existing wiring harness here we're gonna tie it to and that's just gonna help keep it secure so it doesn't get tangled up in our sway bars or steering links and then we're gonna come up and over the outside of the engine mount and then it's gonna come on the outside of the frame actually and then pretty much from here on back, we're just gonna tie it to the top of the frame rail. So you're not gonna be able to see it, but it is on top of the frame rail and we just came from the outside there. If you actually peel this back you can just go up and over the body mount and we went all the way back. Now I did combined a couple zip ties, right here, to secure it on top of the frame, just so it's not flopping around because we do have our exhaust here. So, I did this a couple times. Once here and then once more here and, again, our wire is just sitting on top of the frame there and we have these zip ties securing it down. We're still gonna come up and over the frame here. Once we get into this little area here, you should start to see our wire reappear. So this would have to come up and over the rear subframe assembly. So going up and over the shock tower mounts here and then that's pretty much just gonna come out on the other side. So your wires gonna come out around this area here, we're gonna stop routing it for now because we're gonna remove the tail lights on the vehicle there and then we'll start fishing our wires up into the tail light pockets. So now we're gonna take a Phillip's head screw and we're gonna remove our tail light assembly. So we have four screws on the quarter there, pretty simple. And then once we get each of the screws removed, we should just be able to pull it straight out and away. So we have a connector we have to remove before we can pull the tail light assembly out, away from the vehicle. So just to press that tab there and then separate the two. So now the next thing we're gonna do is we need to remove some of the wire loom from our wires here that go to our tail light plug. So, just gonna take off that electrical tape. So we've got all the electrical tape removed there. We've got a good section of our wires here to play with so that's gonna be good. Just make sure we do this on both sides. So now that we have all that jacket stripped back of our wire and we have these exposed here. You're gonna go ahead and route up your bonded four pole wiring harness that we routed underneath the vehicle earlier. It should be pretty much a straight shot depending on where you stopped at. There's actually a little foam pad down in there that you can just kind of lift up and just push your wire straight through there. You'll see what you're talking about. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get under there, it's pretty easy and self explanatory. But, with that being said, we're gonna go ahead and make our connections here. So we need to cut two wires about midway here. Gonna be the white and green one and the white and orange one. So this white and green one here, this is going to be for the stop and turn signal circuit and then this orange and white one here, this is gonna be for our running light circuit. So what we're gonna do is, we're just gonna strip some of the jacket off both ends of these wires, those two ends and these two ends and then we are going to crimp on our blue female spade terminals that come pre-attached to your diodes. So there's one, now we have three more. So now we're gonna separate the wire strands of our bonded four pole. I would make a note that, as soon as you pull these wires up into the taillight pocket here go ahead and zip tie them to the harness here. That way they don't fall back down. But, again, we'll go ahead and separate out all of our wires here. We're gonna be dealing with the yellow and brown wires to start with. So we've got plenty of extra here. I'm just gonna go ahead and cut all that excess off and then, as we've been doing so far, I'm going to remove some of the jacket and crimp on a spade terminal to each of these wires. So for the yellow one, we're gonna be using a blue spade, but for the brown one, we're actually gonna be using a yellow spade here, which is a little bit larger because we actually have to piggyback this wire over to the other side. So we'll show you that in a second, but we'll go ahead and crimp on our blue spade to our yellow wire here. So now we're gonna take the brown wire that we cut off from here and we're gonna use that to piggyback to the other side. So just take one of the ends there, remove some of the jacket. Then we'll tie these two wires together by just twisting the strands and then we will secure it there with our yellow spade terminal. Just like so. Now we'll go ahead and begin making the connections to our diodes. So we're gonna take one of our diodes here. They're all the same, it doesn't matter. So I'm gonna plug one of them into the outside. So the one going into the connector always goes to the singular outside and that's gonna be our white slash green wire. Therefore, that's gonna hook up to the yellow wire here and then your other white slash green wire is gonna go to the other side. So now that we have that diode complete, we're gonna take our other diode. White slash orange wire going to the connector, goes to the outside and it doesn't matter which one goes where or over here. We just wanna make sure you use the correct wire color. So white slash orange goes to one of these pins and then, finally, we have the brown wire. There we go. So next we're gonna take our white wire here and we're going to give ourselves a little bit extra. We don't quite need as much as their giving us here, but we don't wanna cut it too short, like the others, because we do have to reach back in there. So, I'm just gonna cut out here. So, and then I'm going to actually be crimping on the ring terminal that comes in your kit. It's the only ring terminal. So, pretty easy to distinguish and it looks just like this. So go ahead and crimp that on Now grounding this is gonna be a little tricky because we're gonna be grounding it into the taillight pocket in here, but we obviously don't have a lot of room to get our tool in there. So, I've kind of rigged up something I'm hoping will work here. But we're gonna be mounting it inside to this panel here and I have a right angle bit driver that I think is gonna help us with that, but time will tell. So we we're able to get our ground secure and I'll be honest with you guys that was kind of a pain just because we don't really have any room to get a tool in there. So if you wanted, you could actually just drop the wire down below and ground it there. Or if you have any sort of right angle impact or right angle drill bit, you should be able to get the self-tapping screw in. But, again, up to you just depends on how much you wanna mess with it. So now we're gonna take our green and brown wires. I'm gonna fish them down through the hole that we pull our other wires up earlier because these need to go over there to the passenger side. So I'll just reach in there and kind of find that opening with my hand there. It's pretty large. So, you shouldn't have too much of an issue, but then just feed the rest of your wires down through that opening there. So now, once we have all that excess wire pulled down. I'm going to take our diodes here. I'm gonna remove the backing from either one here and then we're just gonna simply stick them together. There we go. Now I'm gonna reinstall our tail light here, over on this side and then we'll jump back underneath so we can grab those wires and run 'em to the other side. So now we're underneath the Jeep here. We have our brown and our green wires. We're gonna go ahead and route that over to the passenger side there, just securing it to this cross tube underneath and then once we get it up there we'll go ahead and show you those connections, but it is pretty much the same as over on this side, just a few different color wires. So over here on the passenger side, if you remember on the driver's side, we had a foam panel in there that we just snuck our wires through. This is a hard plastic panel and directly above it is a bunch of foam so I went ahead and just drilled a hole through there and you can see, we just snuck our wires. That's how you're gonna have to get them into that tail light pocket. So we got our two wires here into the tail light pocket. Go ahead and cut that excess off and then we're gonna take our connector here and we're gonna be cutting the white and yellow wire about halfway back and then the violet and white wire and then, like the same thing we did on the other side, we're going to install a spade terminal on each of those six wires there. So now we've got our spade terminals on everything. We'll begin installing our diodes. So the yellow and your white wire is gonna be for the stop/turn signal circuit. Therefore, we're gonna hook that up to our green wire and then our violet and white wire is gonna be for the tail light circuit. So that's gonna hook up to the brown wire. There we go. And now, the same thing as we did to the other side, we will stick the two dials to the back of one another. Then we'll reinstall our tail light there and we can test everything out. We're using a tester box we have designed for this purpose, but you guys can just use your motor home. Go ahead and turn on our tail lights, our left turn. our brake lights, and then our right turn. So if you guys didn't have any of those signals just go back and check all your crimping there. Sometimes you don't get part of the wire there on your spade connector. So that's one thing to check, but for the most part should be good to go. And that's gonna do it today for our look at installation of the Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit here on the 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video by:
Zack K
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video Edited:
Zach D

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.