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Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2016 Cadillac SRX

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2016 Cadillac SRX

Hi there Cadillac owners, stand your 2016 Cadillac SRX. We're gonna be taking a look at, and showing you how to install the Road master diode wiring kit. These kits are available in a few different combinations, depending on the tow bar and the type of wiring that you want to use for your connection at the front, you can get it with either a four pole flat trailer connector, or you could get it where it has as a six pole connector as well. The six poles, the most common, and you can also get the cables in varying styles, whether they be a straight cable, which is what we'll be showing off. 'Cause that can slide through channels in a tow bar. There's also a coiled cables, which are ideal for tow bars that don't have any cable management, and there's hybrid cables, which have a straight and coiled section.

And those are ideal for tow bars that have channels to slide the cable through, but maybe you need a high-low adapter and some other things. So there's a very long run between the motor home and the vehicle, and you need a small section of quail there as well. Your diode wiring is gonna take your lighting signals from your motor home, and transfer them to the lights here at the back. That's gonna include your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps. And if you see here that our lights on our motor home are being mimicked right here at the back of the vehicle.

We've got our hazard lights turned on right now, and even those are gonna function properly. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motor home, you'll need your tow bar, which is the connection that will connect your motor home to your vehicle, you'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection, in addition to your tow bar, and your base plate, which is the connection point, you'll attach your tow bar to on your vehicle. You'll also need your diode wiring, which will take the lighting signals from your motor home, and transfer them to the lights at the back of your vehicle. So people behind you will know your intentions when going down the road. And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in your vehicle when you hit them in your motor home.

Now, if you come to a safe stop, it's important to have your lighting signals here at the back. So drivers know your intentions when going down the road, and it will keep you DOD compliant in all states. Diode wiring is my top pick for getting lighting signals here at the back of your vehicle. There are a couple of other options such as a bulb and socket kit, where you physically drill a hole, and add a bulb into your housing. That's really not used so much these days because we have LED assemblies here, and there's just not room inside of it for an incandescent bulb to be added.

So the diode kit is typically the better option. But if you don't want to do any modifications or splicing to your vehicle, there is also magnetic light kits available, where you just simply set the lights on top of your vehicle and they stick right on there. The only thing I don't like about those is you do have to run your wire every time up to the front from your lights and get them out, and set them up whenever you want to flat tow. Whereas diode wiring, once you install it, you simply plug your connector in at the front, and you're ready to go. So you can save yourself a lot of time, and I just liked the look and cleanliness of the diodes all way better than the other styles. Here you can see the cable that came included with our kit, the one we installed, had the six pole connector, we mounted here at the front, and we chose the straight cable because our customers using Road masters Falcon all-terrain tow bar, which has channeled here for our safety cables, and our wiring. I do highly recommend getting a tow bar like this 'cause it's gonna extend the life of the rest of your components here by keeping them off off the road. It's a nicer cleaner look, and it really helps keep everything together. So things don't get lost as you're moving from place to place and out there on the road. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle by removing both our passenger, and driver's side tail light assemblies. To begin you'll remove the pin here at the top. And if we look at the pin, there is a small opening on one side, you can fit a flat-bladed screwdriver in and you can use that to pop out the center. You can then just pull that pin out of there, If the back stays like that, and the center pops out, that's no big deal. They do come apart and you can then just pull that out, and then the center tab here, this just goes right in there like that. To remove this piece now you'll have to lift up just a little bit to release the top. And then we wanna come down here towards the bottom and then just pull straight outward with it, to get that release out of there. That is going to reveal a couple of screws that we're gonna remove using a Phillips. Hit We're just gonna get those out of there. And then our assembly now is just gonna come straight rearward. So we're just gonna give it a little push towards the rear, just like that. It pops off of there, we'll then flipper around here to reveal our wires. We'll disconnect each one of these. So just pushing on the release tab to disconnect it. And then we can set our assembly aside, and we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side to get that one removed. We can now take the wire harness that comes in our kit. You're gonna get a bunch of this here. We need to separate out the green wire that one's not gonna get routed up here to the driver's side. So just cut that off and then just peel some back. You just need to peel enough back, that's probably a pretty good amount. And then we're gonna take our white or brown or yellow wire, and we're gonna feed that up from the bottom, into our assembly here. You can use a coat hanger to do this, or we're gonna be using some airline tubing to push down through an open hole. We'll tape our wire through it and then pull it back up. So we're just taping our wire harness here with the yellow, white, and brown wires to our airline tube. You can see we poked it down in the corner here, and it's gonna reach around the outside there to grab it. And we can feed it up behind our assembling. Now go ahead and remove our pull wire from it. You can go ahead and feed this pull wire down over on the passenger side, 'cause we're gonna be needing that later on to get the wire pulled up over there. So now that we've got these three wires up here, this is what we're gonna be making our connections to, to our factory wires. We can now get our factory wires here. This is the harness we're gonna be using. This was the connector that was plugged into the top of our assembly. So we're gonna peel back some of this wiring here and you can actually push it back sometimes I think its pretty thick so we're gonna have to cut it. So just be gentle when you're using your razor knife here, cut a number wires, tryna kind of go between them and then pull upward to stay away from them. A lot of times you can get it kind of started there and then you can start pulling it back. 'Cause these are pretty thin. And the tape on here is rep pretty tight. So it is can be difficult to, to nick those wires. So if you can get it started where you can pull it back, that'll make your life a little bit easier, and safer than using a razor knife the whole way. So now that we've got it pulled back, we need to filter out the purple wire, and the gray wire with the yellow stripe. Those are the two we're gonna be using. That's our tail and our stop turn circuit. So we're gonna go ahead, and cut these right at about the middle of a wire here. And then we'll strip back each end of our wires and we'll be crimping on the spade terminals that are attached to our diodes. Now, when you look at your diodes, most of those are going to be blue connectors, but there's one that's yellow. Don't use the yellow on these wires, I'll show you where that one piece. These are pretty small wires, so you may need to push on certain types of strippers a little harder to get it to strip, take our blue spade terminals here And these just pull off your dials, you can pull them out there. You could leave them attached to and crimp the wires on, but I really find it a lot easier if you just slide those off your diodes. We can now move onto the wires that we routed it up. Each one of these is gonna get stripped back as well. Our white wire here is actually our ground wire, but we're going to be utilizing a small section of it here at the back to act as a jumper wire to get our taillight circuit from our driver's side over here, ran over to our passenger side because we need both the taillights on each side to light up, and they're gonna use the same signal, the brown wires, your taillight signal wire. So we're gonna be using a small section of that white along with the brown. That's what our special yellow spade terminal is for. So we're gonna take the blue one and put it on the yellow wire. This one's just a single wire. And then we're gonna grab our yellow butt connector. And if we look at it, it does have a larger diameter hole on the inside, and that'll allow it to accommodate two wires. So we're going to take our brown and our white, and we're going to be stripping these together. Now the trick here to determine how much of the white wire you're gonna need for the other side. Remember when we peeled back that green wire before, we're gonna be riding that over to the passenger side shortly, and what I do is as I peel that back and run it over to the side over the passenger side, once I get an idea of how long it's gonna be, I'll hold that green wire back down our wire here, and then I'll cut the white wire where that green wire stops, and that's gonna give me an equal length of green and white wire to run across. So now we've got all these connected here. Let's get our diodes in place. Our yellow wire is our stop turn for the left, our driver's side. These are always going to plug into the inside where it says in here, so lets plugged that in. And then we need to plug in our factory wires here. So the stop turn circuit is going to be this outer pin here, the gray yellow, this here's the connector side. It's just gonna go right to our bulbs, your connector, where it plugs into your assembly. That's always gonna be the outside. So we're gonna plug that in there. Now it's going out to our bolts to eliminate them, and then the other side of our gray yellow wire that we had cut from the vehicle is gonna go to the end. We'll then just attach our other diode basically the same way out is always towards connector, in from the vehicle, and then we need our stop turning here. We're gonna tryna get this black wire kinda out of the way there. We don't wanna get stuff tangled up if we can avoid it, and then plug that in there. And at this point I recommend taking your wire here. And I like to kinda just run it back along the factory wire, and then I'm going to zip tie it at this point. This will ensure that as we're riding our wires and stuff and we're tugging on those wires, we're not gonna be pulling our diodes and stuff and possibly disconnecting those. So we can go ahead and take these diodes now and we're just gonna stick them together. So just eel off the adhesive backing there. Taking the two and we'll putting them together. And then I like to take the zip ties that we've got included here, and go down our wire, and just add in a couple on each side of the diode, that's gonna help ensure that as we're going down the road and stuff our connectors that we just clipped onto the dial there can't vibrate off. Now we got put things back in and reinstall the assembly on this side. We're all done over here. Let me just take your old tabs here. And those are gonna line up with the correspondence and holes. You can then reinstall our bolts. And then lastly, our trim piece, this will just push back into place. Just kinda work your way down the sides, getting behind the weather stripping all the way back in, and then it's just the single push pin that we had removed for that side. So here's the wires that we just connected that are coming down here from where we fed them up. You wanna make sure you get this poke up here. We don't want it to fall down on our exhaust. So we're gonna poke it back up in there, and then we can use a zip tie here to ensure that it stays up in there. We then continue running it across towards our passenger side. And here you can see our green wire where we had separated it, and where it's running off to the passenger side. You can also see the white wire here that we connected with the brown wire going towards the passenger side. We zip tied along any factory wiring harness along the way, make sure we get all the way over. Once we get our wire routed over to this side, we tuck it up above the exhaust once again, and then routed up using our pull wire trick to get it up behind the passenger side assembly. So here you can see our wires routed up over here on the passenger side. We, again, zip tied them to our factory harness to ensure that these wires stay pulled up on this side. Again, we don't want them to drop down and hit that exhaust on this side it's a pretty similar story. We have to separate out two wires, not the black wire. So on this side, you have a white and the yellow, and you have a gray with a brown Stripe. The white and yellow is our stop turn circuit. So the green wire we routed over here is the stop turn circuit. So blue spade terminals that slides into the end with the vehicle side, going to the end. And then of course the outgoing to our connector, the gray wire here with the brown stripe is our taillight wire. And if you remember on the driver's side, we used our brown wires or taillight circuit, and we use the white wire here to jump her over to this side. So it connects into there to get taillights over on this side. Now we've got these connected over here. We can go ahead and get this taillight assembly re-installed and then we'll route our wires up towards the front. So here's the rest of our wires going to the front. You don't see white here because we had used a small section of that white wire to go to the passenger side. So going towards the front, we've got green, yellow, and brown, and we will get to some white wire that we have leftover as we go forward. We're gonna go above our rear suspension and all of our factory wiring here. You wanna avoid anything hot, like your exhaust, any moving components like your suspension. So that's why we want to make sure we go stay on top of all that. So all the way on top it will then come out here on the other side of our suspension. From there we go over our wiring, and then we run down the side of our fuel tank, and there's a nice little protective channel here that we can run our wire in, and run that all the way down in the fuel tank. But you also notice here next to our fuel tank, we've got our white wire here, and this is what we've got left. So you can see here about how much of that white wire we actually use all the way up to this fuel tank here that needs to be grounded. So we're gonna take this, I did peel a little bit back here so we've got some flexibility to work with. We'll strip back our white wire, and then we can take the blue ring terminal that comes included with our kit. We're gonna slide that over the wire, and then crimp it down. Now we can attach it to the frame using the included self-tapping screws. So we're just gonna run it right over there and we should have no problem getting a tool in here to get this wire attached to there. So we're just gonna take our self tapping screw, slide it through the ring terminal, and then we'll use an eight millimeter socket to thread it right into the premium. So I'm gonna make sure it's nice and solid. So we've got a good ground there. We can go ahead now and continue routing our wiring towards the front of the vehicle. Our wire then came out of the channel. We tucked it behind all of our lines there. And then we rounded up on top through our wiring here. We can zip tie to that factory wiring along the way, stay above our lines. And at this point here's is where we turn up to go into the engine compartment. We use our pull wire trick once again to feed a wire down attached to here to pick that pulled up. So our wire, it comes up right here next to our coolant bottle, and then run it across the front of the corn bottle. And then we go down the side of our fuse box here. I did leave some slack there. You might be thinking, "Hey, you can pull that tight." But we want to leave some slack there, depending on the braking system you're installing, ours needs to tap into diode wiring. So why I want the slack there, so I can easily access that when I put the braking system on we'll, then continue routing towards the front. We go through the opening here. We can zip tie it to the factory wiring going down here, leading towards the center of the vehicle, and then go down to our base plate attachment point for our wiring. You may or may not have this depending on the base plate you purchased. If you have a Road master, typically you get one that we're using here today. If not, you'll have to make your own, but typically you'll put it here towards the center somewhere. So we're gonna go ahead and just tie it up there for now, 'cause at this point we need to connect it to our six way connector, depending on the kit you got, if you're just using a four-pole, your end would have a four-pole on here, and you'd basically be done if you had the six pole, and you want to connect that up. You'll follow along with us here shortly. We're gonna have to get the facial re-installed first before putting this in, because we would have to cut out additional components here in order to have that pre-installed by leaving it off and then installing only after the facial, how we can minimize how much we have to trim on our facial. So once I get the facial re-installed here, we'll show you how to get this connected. And we do have the facial off because we had just installed our base plate. And that's actually the perfect time to do your diode wiring because getting this wire routed up here at the front is a lot more difficult with the facial installed. So I highly recommend if you're doing a full flat tow set up to do it just like we are here, we've got a video here on how to put the base plate on as well. So you could follow along with this entire flat tow setup here at each trailer. Now we've got our facial back on, we can go ahead and get our electrical connector installed. Again, if you had the four pole end, your installation would pretty much just be complete. You can mount it up here at the front, but if you've got the kit that has a six pole, we're gonna get that mounted up now , we'll take our ends here. And the first thing we want to do is just turn off some excess. I always like to leave some excess, so you've got an easy way to be able to remove your connector. If you wanna add additional accessories, and stuff like that in the future. So we're gonna turn it back to about here. This will give us plenty of room to pull that connector out so we can service it or add anything else that you want it to in the future. Now we're gonna take our wiring here and separate each of the colors, just snip in between them. Once we snip in between each one of these, you can take the wire and just peel them apart from one another to give yourself a little more room to work, and then we'll switch over to our strippers, and we'll get each one of these wires stripped back. I do recommend taking the boot off of your six pole first and just slide it on. That'll keep you from bending up the ends of those freshly stripped wires. We can now take our connector and we're gonna insert each of the wires into the appropriate location. They are labeled here on the back. We're going to start with the one labeled 'GD' that's our ground wire. So 'GD' there around which is our white wire. So once we do that and we'll just work our way around, the next one over here says 'LT' that is left Turner, which is our yellow wire. Next is our 'RT' which is right turn that's our green wire. Next is 'S' that's for additional accessories that we won't be using right now. 'TM' is our next one, that is our brown wire. And then our center pin is also for additional accessories, but we don't have any else here. So we'll just be hooking these up into their appropriate slot. So lets poke the wire in there, and then you wanna make sure you're screwing down on the wire not the sheeting. And then just tighten it back down. Next we're gonna take some dielectric grease, and we're gonna thoroughly coat the backside of this. That's going to keep out any moisture so we can have a long lasting corrosion-free connection here in our connector. We're gonna be pretty generous with it. You can get dielectric grease here at each other If you need some, we'll then take our dust boot, We're just gonna slide it right over our connector there. And then I'll take some electrical tape, and wrap it around both sides of our dust boot here, just to help further seal it in keeping that dielectric grease in there and any contaminants out. Now, we've got that all taped up. We can secure it to the mounting location on our base plate. If your base plate manufacturer didn't provide one, we do have no drill brackets here at each trailers that way you can get your electrical connections securely mounted. We're using a base plate from Road master though, and they do provide nice connections here for our electrical, as well as our breakaway switch for any other accessories that we might be wanting to add here. So we're just gonna take the hardware that came with our wiring kit. We're gonna screw the bolt from the front, through our connector and the attachment point on the base plate, and then take the nylon locking nut, put it on the back side and just thread that bolt into it. And then we can snug this down using a 10 millimeter wrench and a Phillips screwdriver. Now we've got our connector securely mounted, we can go ahead and test everything out. We're gonna be plugging ours into a tester, but you can use your motor home and verify that all of your signals are transferring to the lights at the back. So with our tester plugged in, you wanna verify that you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps, with everything working properly. We can go ahead and place our vehicle and flat tow, hook it up to our motor home and hit the road. And that completes our look at Road masters diode wiring on our 2016 Cadillac SRX..

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