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Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2007 Chevrolet HHR

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How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2007 Chevrolet HHR

Today in our 2007 Chevrolet HHR, we'll be installing the Roadmaster Diode 7 wire to 6 wire flexo-coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267. Here's what a wiring kit comes with. Most importantly, we have our connector here. This will be our umbilical between our RV and our vehicle in tow. The 7 way goes towards the 7 way on the back of the RV, and the 6 way here will go to the front of our vehicle right here on this connector. This will allow us to have all of our lighting circuitry on the vehicle work in conjunction with the motor home, and because this uses diodes, there's no extra bulbs and sockets.

This will use the factory lights inside the vehicle and protect our vehicle's lighting system so it's not damaged. When we unhook from the RV, our factory lights will just work the same as they would normally. When we're hooked up to the RV, they'll work in conjunction with the RV's turn signals, tail lights, and brake lights. We have several zip ties here to run all of our wiring, a bracket here to mount our connector if we need it, some wire loom to help conceal some of the wiring, and additionally what we have is our actual 4 flat wiring. Now that we've shown you what's included and gone over the purpose of it, we'll show you how to get it installed. To mount our break away switch, use on of our short brackets that's available on our website. It's part number 18140.

I put a 90 degree bend in it right here, and I'll secure it to our base plate with the provided clamp. Okay, with that clamp down, we have a nice secure mount for our break away switch. We'll trim off our extra hose clamp right here just so we'll have a clean look. All right, this is the break away switch we're going to be using. This cable has an extension right here that we're going to connect to it.

Plug it in, and then we will wrap it up with some electrical tape just to help keep any moisture, dirt, or debris from entering causing corrosion. Now, we'll feel the plug for our break away switch through the hole in our bracket. We'll take this bolt, put it through our bracket, and we'll secure it through this hole that we enlarged in our bracket here. May need to pry down on our bracket a little bit, and we'll secure it in place with a lock nut. Now that we have this in place, we can tighten it down with a socket and a wrench. Make sure it's straight before we snug it down the rest of the way.

Gives us a nice solid mount for our break away. All right, here's our wiring that we're going to use to connect our towed vehicle lighting system with on the front. I wrapped a couple feet back with some black electrical tape just so we don't have any colored wires exposed behind our bumper cover. Give it a nice cleaner look. We'll stick it through the middle of our electrical bracket here, and we'll zip tie it to it so it won't fall down, and it'll be ready to access or ready to continue on with the installation of our lighting system. Now, we'll route our wiring into our engine bay going through this shield right here this side of the radiator. We'll do the same for our towed vehicle lighting wiring. We'll take our 4 pole flat wiring here, and we'll separate each of the wires so they're individual. Pull them on back. We have our wiring wrapped in electrical tape right here to help conceal it behind our bumper cover so we don't have any colored wires sticking out. With all 4 wires separated, we'll strip back some of the insulation. We'll take our connector here, remove the protective dust cover, take all 4 of our wires, stick them inside the dust cover, slide them back along our wire. We'll start with our ground wire that'll go to this terminal marked G D. That gets the white wire. Twist our wires together here so they go on our connector nice. Place it inside. We'll tighten the set screw. Make sure it's nice and tight then we'll go to our left turn signal which is right next to it. This will control our left turn signal and our left brake light on our vehicle when it's being towed. That goes to the yellow wire. Now we'll do the right turn signal. Again, this will also do the right brake light. That gets the green wire. Tighten that one on down too. Then we'll do our tail lights. That gets the one marked T M. That gets the last wire which is the brown wire. With all of our connections made at the front. We'll slide our dust cover back on down, and then we'll secure it to our connector and down the wire with some electrical tape. This will help keep corrosion from happening, and help keep any dirt, debris, and moisture out as well. Tuck our wire here up underneath that bumper cover, take our screw, push it on through and thread our nut on the back side. These are the screws that we're in our hardware bag that had the mounting bracket included in case you needed it. Once we have our nut started, we can hold it in place with a 3/8 wrench, and then tighten our screws on down. I always like to hold the screw in place a little bit, too, and then snug the lock nut down with the wrench because it's easier to rotate the lock nut than it is to turn the screw sometimes. You don't worry about stripping the screw. That one's nice and tight. So I that one. All right our bracket's really solid connection, and we have a good connection point underneath our license plate bracket to plug our umbilical into to make our connection between the RV and our vehicle. All right, we had our wire previously ran up into our engine compartment from when we had our fascia off. We're going to drop this down behind our engine compartment now. I'm going to come back here behind our fuse box underneath the hood and go underneath our brake booster line, and then I'll pull it out from underneath the vehicle. Then I'll start routing this to the rear making sure I avoid any moving parts or sources of heat. Once I have that done, I'll show you how I did it. Our wire came down from our engine bay here, and we routed it along these brake and fuel lines all the way back, went over this cover here, came back out again, continued following along our brake and fuel lines, went above our rear suspension, and we came up over our exhaust. Make sure we have plenty of clearance. Have it secure to this wire harness here. Then we follow our fuel filler neck, and we have it secured with another zip tie here. Now we'll go back and cut all of our zip ties to make sure that nothing's hanging down. All right now that we have all all of our zip ties trimmed up, we will run our wire inside the vehicle. Now, the best way that I've found to do this, we'll drill a hole in our spare tire well right about here, and then we'll install a grommet to protect our wiring. Then we'll seal it up with some silicone. We have the silicone and the grommets available on our website if you need to purchase any. We've already started the process by removing everything from our spare tire well, the spare tire and our floor covering. We'll grab this center piece right here. We'll pull up on it, and set it aside. Now we'll enlarge that out. Now we'll use the utility knife to cut a nice square around our hole that we drilled so that we have clean access to metal. Now, we'll install our grommet and snap it into place, and this will protect the edge of our wiring and give us a clean look inside of our hatch. Now that we're back underneath the vehicle, you can see where our grommet is. We'll push our wire all inside of it. Now just like we did on the front, we'll separate all 4 of our individual wires that we pulled through the trunk. Now our wires I'll just zip tie to this wiring harness right here to pull them to the side of our trunk and out of the way and secure them so they don't get pulled down below the vehicle any. This will keep them all nice and taught inside the trunk area. I'll squeeze some silicone sealant also known as RTB into our grommet. Make sure it's pushed in there pretty good. Come around the edge of the wire on both sides. This will help prevent any exhaust fumes or moisture from entering inside our vehicle. Now our white wire here is our ground wire. We could use the provided ring terminal in our kit, and attach to the sheet metal of the body with this included self tapping screw, or if we provide our own larger diameter ring terminal right here, we could use the existing ground wire right here that goes to our negative battery terminal. We could remove this bolt, install it underneath this bolt, and avoid drilling another hole in the vehicle. That's the option I'm going to use. We'll measure off about how much wire we're going to need. Cut off the excess. Then we'll take our wire strippers and strip off about 1/2" of insulation. The reason we're stripping off this much insulation is because this ring terminal is meant for 10 to 12 gauge wire. This is about a 16 gauge wire. We fold it over on itself like that to make the wire thicker and give it more surface to crimp down onto. We'll crimp that down, having a nice solid ground wire there. We'll use a 13mm socket and remove this bolt that holds our ground cable on. Install the bolt through our ring terminal, and reinstall the bolt. Now, on the passenger's side of our vehicle, right next to our tail light assembly, you can pop open this cover here. Set it aside, and we have access to our tail light bulbs that we need to connect our wires to. We'll take our brown and our green wire, go up underneath this panel here, and we'll pull them on up to where our tail lights are. We have two lights back. Our bottom one's our reverse light, and our top one is our tail light and brake light. We'll unplug the connector, pull back on the tab, and pull it on out. There's 3 wires in here. One's going to be our tail light signal, one's ground, and one will be our turn signal and brake light. We're going to start our connections with our tail light so we'll turn our head lights on and figure out which one of these wires is the hot wire. With our test light hooked up to our vehicle's negative battery terminal, we'll probe our wires here. We can find out that our middle one, which is the brown wire, is our tail light signal. We'll turn our tail lights off. We'll cut our brown wire here right in the middle, and we'll strip back the insulation on both ends a little bit. We'll take our dio pack that has the yellow connector on it, and we'll remove both of our blue ones for right now. We'll crimp on the blue connectors to both ends of our wire. Make sure it's on there nice and tight. We'll take our yellow one off now, and plug our dio pack in. The output side goes towards the connector which connects with the bulb, and the other end here from our vehicle can go to one of the input sides. Does not matter which. Now, let's take our brown wire here. Measure off about how much we're going to need. Cut off the excess. We'll strip off some of the insulation. Same with one of the ends of the wire we cut off. We'll tie these two together. We'll install the yellow connector onto it, and crimp it down. Go over to our input side on the other spade terminal. Connect our diode just like so, then our brown wire we'll drop back down through one that we added on. Pull it on over. Our turn signals are on. We'll find out which wire goes to that. It's the green wire. That's the other wire we'll be making our connection with for our turn signal and brake lights when our vehicle's being towed. Just like the brown wire, we'll cut the green wire in the middle, and then we'll strip back both ends. Grab one of our dio pack now and put a blue connector on both of those wires. All right now we'll take our dio pack. Output side goes towards the connector just like the other one, and the other green wire goes to one of the input sides. Now our green wire for our tow vehicle lighting system. We'll measure off about how much we need. We'll cut off the excess, strip it on back, plug this into our other input, and then we can replug it back in our tail light connector now. All right, now that our light light bulb's plugged back in we can reinstall our cover here. Then we will route our brown and yellow wire on over to our driver's side. Pop the same cover out on the driver's side. We'll take our brown and yellow wire. Pull those on up. Now we'll unplug our bulb for our tail light and brake light and turn signal on the driver's side. Same as the other side, just release the tab and pull back. We have our head lights turned on again. We're going to figure out which one's our tail light signal. Just like on the other side, it's the brown wire, so your brown wire's going to be spliced in with your brown wire. We'll cut our brown wire. We'll strip back both ends and insulation. It's kind of a unique vehicle that your wire codes are the same as the trailer codes. Consider yourself lucky. Makes it easy. We have another one of our dio packs. Got our blue spade terminals here we'll install on the wire. Sometimes it's easier to get the connector already held in place in your crimpers before you're crimping down the wire, so don't drop it. Now, we'll take our brown wire that we brought over from the passenger's side. Strip off the insulation on it. We'll install the final connector on it. Put this on one of our input sides. Our connector side will go towards the output, and then the one from the vehicle goes to the other input. Now we'll turn our turn signals on again and find out which one is our wire for the turn signals and brake light. Sure enough, it's the yellow wire so we'll use that to make our connections. We'll cut our yellow wire in the middle like we did the brown wire, and we'll strip both end back. Then we'll crimp on our blue connectors. We'll take our dio pack. Vehicle end goes towards one of the input, and the connector side goes to the output. Now our yellow wire that we brought over. Measure off about how much we need. Cut off the excess. Strip it back. Install the final connector. Crimp it down, and install it onto the final input. We can plug our light back in now. With all of our connections made, we can reinstall our plastic panel. Then we can reinstall our center panel, too. Now that we have all of our connections made and our hatch put back together, it's a good idea to test our factory lights to make sure everything works. Turn our head lights on, you can see our tail lights work. Left turn signal works. Right turn signal works, and our brake lights work. We'll shut everything off. Now that we tested our factory functions, we'll test our hookup on the front to make sure it'll work when we're hooked up to our motor home. We'll start with our tail lights. As you can see, both of those are working. Now, we will activate just the left brake light. As you can see, that's working. This will function as both our brake light and our turn signal. We'll do the same for our right. As you can see, that's working as well, so that means our vehicle will be able to work in conjunction with our motor home's lighting when the umbilical's hooked up between them. It'll be treating our vehicle's rear lights like it would be on a trailer. That completes our installation of the Roadmaster Diode 7 wire to 6 wire flexo-coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267 on our 2007 Chevrolet HHR.

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