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Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee


Speaker 1: Today on this 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster diode seven wire to six wire Flexo-Coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267.Here's what our diodes look like installed. As you can see what's great about this is that it utilizes the factory lights on our vehicle, so we don't have to deal with using a magnetic tow light when we want to flat tow our Grand Cherokee behind our motor home.Now, what sets this apart from other options out there is that by utilizing diodes, not only do we get to utilize our factory lights in the vehicle, but it also protects our expensive electrical components from any back feed of voltage from our motor home, so we don't have to worry about any damage happening to those components.What many of our customers like about this is it's one less thing they have to worry about. They don't have to worry about storing a pair of magnetic tow lights or the paint on their vehicle getting scratched from the light slipping and sliding on the surface. With this, you simply plug in one connection to your motor home and that's it. You don't have to worry about flipping any switches either because as soon as you unplug it and you want to drive your vehicle as normal, the factory lights work without any user intervention.Here's what it looks like on the front of our vehicle. The included six pull round connector will mount easily to your base plate.

We have a spring loaded dust cover here, which protects the connector from the elements. And we have a seven way to a six pull round umbilical here that's coiled so we don't have to worry about any cable dragging on the ground. The seven way end will go to our motor home and once that's plugged in, in order to get our lights to work, we'll simply lift up on the dust cover, insert the connector, push, and we're ready to go.For this particular flat-tow set up we used a Roadmaster EZ5 base plate kit, a Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain non-binding tow bar, the Roadmaster diode seven wire to six wire Flexo-Coil wiring kit for our lighting system, and for our supplemental braking system we used the SMI Air Force One for motor homes with air brakes. Now, depending upon your application you may or may not need to get a high-low adapter to ensure that your tow bar's in the proper height between the motor home and your towed vehicle.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. While we had our fascia off when we installed the base plate, this is a good opportunity to mount any brake relay switches we may have for a supplemental braking system, and run any wiring we have for a towed vehicle lighting system.

We attached our break-away switch to our mounting bracket using the provided hardware of our break-away switch to the mounting hole, and our four pole flat wiring we ran inside the provided wire loom with it, and both these wires will run behind the fascia beam here and will come up through a gap here and then go into our engine compartment where they come up right in this area here.This is where our wiring came out behind our fascia inside this wiring loom. We went ahead and routed this to the back of the vehicle making sure we avoided any moving parts or sources of heat such as the exhaust, and we secured it along the way with several zip ties. The wire goes above our rack and pinion here and above our CV axle. We made sure we zip tied it above both of these since these parts do move and it's not making contact. We started routing it towards the back, just securing it along the way.

We went behind this heat shield here to help keep it away from our exhaust as far as possible. Then we had it zip tied to this cover for our fuel line and brake line brackets. It goes underneath this plastic shield, comes out, goes to the side of our fuel tank, up over our filler neck hose and then it goes over our rear subframe, continues over our rear subframe, and then we have it zip tied to a wiring harness behind the subframe and this is where we'll leave it for right now.Now that we have our wire routed all the way to the back we're going to work on installing our connection on the front. To do that we'll take our four-pole flat wiring and we'll separate all four of the individual wires. Now we'll strip off insulation from all four wires.

We'll take our connector now, remove the dust cover from the back of it, and we'll slide our wires through that, just push that out of the way for the time being. Now on the back side of our connector we'll find six terminals where we'll be connecting wires to four of them. We'll start with the one marked GD, and that's for ground. We'll loosen the set screw, and that will get our white wire. We'll stick that inside and tighten the set screw. Then we'll do our taillight and marker light wire, and that goes to the terminal marked TM, and that will get our brown wire. Now we'll do our left turn signal, that's the terminal marked LT, and that gets our yellow wire. This also works for our left brake light. Now we'll do our right turn signal and right brake lights. It's the terminal marked RT, and that gets our green wire. Here's what it looks like with all of our connections made.Now we'll take some die electric grease, which we have available on our website, and we'll flood the backside of our connector. This will help prevent any corrosion from occurring if moisture or rust would get inside. With that coated we'll slide the dust cover back down over our connector. Now we'll take some electrical tape and we'll tape our connector and dust cover together. This will also add an extra moisture barrier, and we'll continue taping down the dust cover until we've covered up all of our colored wires hanging down. This way we won't se any colored wires behind our fascia. Now we'll mount our connector to our baseplate using the self-tapping screws that came with our baseplate.Now we'll open our rear hatch. Now we'll remove both of our taillight assemblies. In order to do this we have two clips on them, and plastic fasteners. This center section will pop out. You use a flat head screw driver or a trim panel tool like I have. The center section's out, and then the larger section around it will come out as well. Now we can grab our taillight assembly and pull it away from the vehicle. Noe we'll remove our bulbs by twisting counterclockwise, take this bulb out here as well. This one's for an LED strip, so we'll disconnect this by sliding this red tab back and then pressing on this black tab and pulling to separate. We'll do the same thing for the other side.We went ahead and separated our four wires in the back just like we did the front and we did that up until the point where we had it secured behind our rear subframe. Now, our white wire . This is our ground wire, we need to secure this to the vehicle's chassis using the provided self-tapping screw. We can do that right in this area here. I'll measure off how much I'm going to need, cut off the excess, save it in case I need it for later, strip back some insulation, take our provided ring terminal, place it over the wire and crimp it down. Now we'll take our self-tapping screw and secure it to the sheet metal. Now we'll take our yellow and our brown wire and we'll connect it to a pull wire that we dropped down behind our taillight on the driver's side. Now we'll pull this up behind our taillight. Now we'll take off some of the insulation and electrical tape off our large bulb and our LED connector here, so it will access to the wires inside.Now we're going to measure off how much of our yellow and brown wire we're going to need, about eight inches or so from our taillight housing's plenty, so we'll just cut off the excess. Now we have our headlights turned on. We'll take our taillight connector here and we'll use the test light to determine which one of our wires is for our taillight signal. Okay, it's this terminal here which corresponds to our white wire. We'll go ahead and turn off our headlights now and make our connection to this wire. We'll cut it right in the middle and we'll strip back insulation from both ends and take our blue spade connectors and we'll crimp those on the wire. We'll take our diode now. The output side will go towards our connector and the other wire will go to one of the inputs. It doesn't matter which one.Now we'll take our brown wire here and we'll trip off some insulation. Now because this is for our taillight signal we'll need to get a signal over to the other side. We'll take our longest section of leftover wire that we have, in this case this will be our white wire, we'll strip off the insulation at one end as well, and we'll twist the two together. This will give us a separate lead to go over to the passenger's side. Now we'll take our yellow spade connector, stick that on the wires and crimp that into place. Then we put that into the other input side of our diode pack.Now we have an assistant stepping on our brake pedal. We see our light's illuminated. We're going to test to see which wire is for our brake light. All right, it will be this white wire here, so we can turn off our brakes now, ending our connection. Now we'll go ahead and cut that white wire in the middle, strip back insulation on both ends and well attach our blue spade connectors. They're both crimped on now. We'll take a diode pack. Again the output side always goes toward the bulb or connector, and the other end will go to one of the inputs, it does not matter which one. We'll take our yellow wire now, strip off some insulation from it, and crimp on a blue spade connector. We'll attach that to the other side of our diode pack. This is what it looks like with all the connections made on the driver's side of our vehicle.Now the white wire that we tied together with our brown wire, we'll drop that down behind our fascia, the same path that we brought our wires up. Now we can take our taillight assembly, reconnect it, reinstall the bulbs and reinstall the assembly. Our green wire that needs to go to our passenger's side for the turn signal and brake light, we brought it over from when we separated it to our factor tow package wiring on the right side, right above our hitch, and we secured it there as well as with the white wire which we brought over from the driver's side, and this, of course, is the wire that we tied in with the brown wire behind the driver's side taillight and dropped down. We have them taped to a pull wire that we dropped down, so now we can bring them up behind our taillight assembly. Now we'll measure off how much wire we're going to need, cut off the excess and strip off some insulation from both those wires and we'll crimp on our spade connectors.Here we have our headlights turned on again. Now we're going to test and see which one of the wires is for our taillight. It should be the white wire, but we'll double check. Okay, it is the white wire. We'll cut that white wire a little, strip back insulation from both ends and we'll crimp on our spade connectors. We'll take our diode pack, put the side towards our connector and put . We'll get the other factory wire and take our white wire that we brought up, plug it into the other input. Now we'll have our assistant step on the brake pedal again. Here with our brake light now on we'll test. It should be this white wire, but we'll double check anyway. Okay, it is the white wire, so get off the brake pedal now and we'll make our connections. We'll cut the white wire, strip back some insulation from both ends, crimp on our connectors, take our final diode pack, make our connections there, output towards the bulb and put through the factory wire and the other input will get our green wire. This is what it looks like with all of our connections made on the passenger's side.All right, we'll plug back in all of our bulbs. Here we have our umbilical that comes with our diode kit hooked up to our trailer tester right now, and our vehicle. You can also just hook it up to your motor home. We're going to test our lights and make sure that everything works properly. We'll start by turning our taillights. As you can see, our taillights are working great. We'll now do our left turn signal, and that's working properly. Now we'll use our brake lights, those are working good, too. Finally, our right turn signal. As you can see, that's working as well.That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster diode seven wire to six wire Flexo-Coil wiring kit part number RM-15267 on this 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee.


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