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Roadmaster BrakeMaster System Installation - 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Roadmaster BrakeMaster System on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with our 2016 Jayco Seneca motorhome on a Freightliner chassis, we will be having a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster BrakeMaster System with BrakeAway. Part number RM-9160.Here's what our Roadmaster BrakeMaster looks like installed. As you can see, we have this very substantial cylinder here, which will apply pressure to our brake pedal to apply the brakes in our Wrangler. This will give us the necessary and required supplemental braking system that we're looking for, which is in many cases required by law in most states and Canadian provinces.This is a truly proportional braking system. This will only apply our brakes when the brakes are being applied on our motorhome, so you don't have to worry about any false braking. By proportional, we are getting equal braking pressure to what the air brakes are being applied on in our motorhome.Now when compared to other braking systems, which are permanently attached inside your vehicle, when this is not in use, we don't have to worry about having a cylinder that's clamped to our brake pedal with an anchor point to our firewall.

When we want to drive our vehicle normally this whole cylinder comes out quick and easy, and we have complete leg room and foot room, so we don't have to worry about our feet hitting a cylinder that's clamped to our brake pedal.Now when you compare this to your portable braking system, which typically just sits on your floor board and then clamps to your brake pedal, and pushes against your seat, if you're driving on rough terrain and you hit bumps, the portable braking system's inertial G sensors could be confused, and you could have false braking situations, even when you're not on the brake pedal on the motorhome. With this, you don't have to worry about that because this is permanently attached to your brake pedal and an anchor point which attaches to your seat. You don't have to worry about it tipping over, and it only comes on when the brakes are applied in the motorhome.One of the great features about this is how easy it is to remove when you're ready to drive your vehicle once you arrive at your destination. Simply unhook our air line. We'll undo our pin at our seat anchor.

Then, we'll undo our pedal clamp. Just like that, we're ready to drive again.Another one of the great features about this system is how easy it is to hook up once we have already hooked up to our motorhome as far as our tow bar like normal. The only other additional steps we have is attaching our cylinder inside the vehicle. We'll start by attaching our pedal clamp on our brake pedal. Pull the latch over to make sure it's secure, then lock it in place with your pin.

We'll pull our cylinder back until it lines up with our seat post adapter bracket. Insert the pin. Lock the pin in place. Then we'll hook up our air line. Just like that we're good inside the car.Now there's two things we need to do outside of the car.

Okay we're hooked up like normal to our motorhome using our tow bar and our electrical connections. Now we just need to hook up our air line and our breakaway cable. We'll remove our dust cap on the fittings. We have a female end that goes to our male end. Just slide this cover over to help protect it from the elements. We'll route it over our tow bar, remove the cover from our motorhome and install the fitting. Then slide the cover over that, that will ensure that our cable from our breakaway switch is attached to a secure point on our motorhome. It's just that easy. It only takes an additional minute or two to hook up over your traditional hooking up procedure.Now this breakaway switch, which is provided, will ensure that in the unlikely event that our Jeep becomes disconnected behind our motorhome, that the brakes will be applied inside the Jeep. This will bring it to a safe stop.For this particular flat tow setup, we used a Roadmaster Crossbar Style Base Plate, a Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain Tow Bar, the Hopkins Plug-In Diode Wiring Kit, a Roadmaster Brake Light Relay, and the Roadmaster BrakeMaster Braking System. Now additionally, depending on your application, you may or may not need a high-low adapter. In our case we're using a Roadmaster 2" High-Low Adapter.Okay here we are with the owner of our Jeep and our motorhome. We're going to ask him a few questions to see what his experience is like with the product. First one being, why did you choose this particular braking system over the other options in the market Speaker 2: The other options on the market we we're looking at, we wanted to stick with one brand and one of the features with the Roadmaster that we liked was the fact that it doesn't require you to drill holes or take sections of the frame out of our tow vehicle was the reason that we chose Roadmaster. Speaker 1: How well do you think this setup works compared to other towing options out there Speaker 2: Well with the other towing options that we've experienced is with tow dollies and some of the older tow dollies with the surge brake systems that . this system, being hooked up to the air brakes on this coach controlling the braking system there, you know, it's going to tow a lot smoother. We're not going to have issues with going downhill and the surge brakes kicking in when we don't really need the brakes on, it's going to be a lot smoother ride from that standpoint. Speaker 1: Well thanks for joining us here today. I really appreciate hearing your aspect of how you feel this is going to work and why you chose it. Is there anything you'd like to add Speaker 2: Well I guess what I'd like to add is, you know, thank you guys for doing the install. Looking at the install, the quality, inaudible 00:06:20 the fit and the finish of the product, we're really happy with that and think it's going to work out really well in the future. Speaker 1: All right. Well I really appreciate that. That's what we're here for.Now that we've gone over some features of the BrakeMaster system, we'll show you how we installed it. Okay the first thing we need to concern ourselves with is mounting our BrakeAway system. We did that with provided clamps and a couple bolts, washers, and nuts. We didn't use the provided hardware to mount it. We just used the clamps, because we needed longer bolts to reach down underneath this plastic panel to get a nut on it.Now when we mount our BrakeAway cylinder, there is one thing we need to concern ourselves with. We need to make sure that this bottom section here faces down somewhat. That's because this has a drain built into it. We can loosen the screw, remove the screw, and then drain any moisture that may have built up inside the reservoir over the course of time.Now on the front of our Jeep, we have two things we need to concern ourselves with mounting. We have our breakaway switch, which we attached to our base plates breakaway switch mounting location using the hardware provided. Then we have our air line connector. The air line connector on the front needs to be the male end, which is what we used. We attached this to a no drill mounting bracket, which we have available on our website and that's secured to our base plate with the provided clamp.Now the air line from the fitting on the front of our Jeep runs up behind our radiator in front of our engine and we have it secured to a wiring harness to keep it away from any moving parts and sources of heat with a few zip ties. That comes up and then it plugs into the input side of our BrakeAway system right here, and we use our provided compression fittings to make all of our air line connections.One of the extended wires from our breakaway switch connects to one of the black wires on our solenoid on the BrakeAway system. It doesn't matter which one as long as you connect it to one of those wires. For all of our connections we use heat shrink butt connectors, replacing the standard butt connectors that came with our kit.Okay we have on our table here three pieces of wire so we can show you how to use butt connectors to make electrical connections with different wires. We have our standard butt connector here, which would be what comes with your kit most of the time. Then we have a heat shrink butt connector, which we have available on our website. We'll show you how to use both of these.We'll start by taking one of our wires. We'll strip off the insulation from one end. Make sure it's twisted together nice and tight. This is our standard butt connector. We'll start with this one. Place it over the wire and we'll crimp it down. We'll now take another wire, strip off the ends of that one. We'll insert that into the other end of our butt connector and we'll crimp it. We now have joined two wires together to form an electrical connection. This style of butt connector is perfectly acceptable to use in the inside of a vehicle because it's not exposed to the elements. You don't have to worry about dirt, debris, or moisture getting inside, causing a poor connection.Now if we're using a butt connection underneath the vehicle or underneath the hood where it's more exposed to the elements, that's where a heat shrink butt connector comes into play and is more useful. We'll strip off insulation from one end of the wire and just like the other one you install the butt connector, crimp it. Take our last segment of wire, strip back insulation, install it in the butt connector and we'll crimp it. Now in order to get a proper seal on our heat shrink butt connector, we need to shrink it down. Now the preferred method of doing this is using a heat gun, because a heat gun is a source of indirect heat and not a direct flame, it won't damage the connector. We have heat guns available on our website.As we apply heat we'll just rotate it back and forth to make sure it's evenly shrunk down all the way around the wire. Once we start to see this clear liquid ooze out of the back of the connector, that means we have it heat shrinked enough that it'll provide superior seal and protection from the elements. This connection will last for the life of the vehicle.The other wire from our solenoid we have connected to ground right here. We have an existing chassis ground point and we use that so we don't have to drill any new holes in the vehicle. We utilize what was already there. The other extended wire from our breakaway switch, we've routed alongside our driver's side fender, sticking it behind this plastic panel. Goes up behind our firewall here, and we have it secured to this wiring loom going across our engine compartment with several zip ties until it gets over by our battery.That extended wire we then connected to our provided fuse holder with another heat shrink butt connector, and then attached that underneath one of the 10 mm nuts on our positive battery post. Inside the fuse holder you'll find a provided 10 amp fuse. That covers all of our electrical connections.The next air line connection that we have plugs into the backside of our BrakeAway solenoid here using another compression fitting. That goes inside our vehicle through a grommet in the firewall. If your Jeep is equipped with a manual transmission, you will not have that grommet that I went through because that is where your clutch master cylinder bolts to.We're now inside our Jeep, underneath the dash on the driver's side. The air line tubing, after it passes through the firewall, is then secured to this female fitting that does not have a dust cap on it, using a compression fitting and then we secured this bracket to the dash support brace right here using the provided hardware. We did have to drill two holes in this brace in order to mount it, but it's not a big deal. It's easy to get to with our drill.Now for the monitor light inside of our motorhome we attached the indicator light wire to the cold side of our brake light relay that we installed previously. That'll go to the green wire and then that routes out through the same grommet hole in the firewall that we passed our air line tubing through. We connected our indicator light wire to the front of our Jeep's 6-pole connector using the pin that is typically used for electric trailer brakes. Because we're going to be using the existing trailer brake connector inside of our motorhome to pass the signal to the indicator light, that way we don't have to run a new wire. We're going to use what's already there and is not being used currently.Here we are at our motorhome now. We'll show you how we installed the motorhome side of things beginning at the very back of it towards the center near our hitch. We used another one of our no drill mounting brackets and attached that around the hitch of our motorhome with the clamp and then attached our fitting that has the female end to that bracket using the provided hardware.Our air line is then attached to that fitting using the compression fitting. Our air line tubing then goes towards the front of the vehicle. We have it secured along the way to several wiring harnesses. Just keeps going all the way towards the front. Then we get to our connection point. Then our air line tubing then goes into our compression fitting here, which is screwed into our T-fitting, which then screws into our brake relay valve here.The fitting for our metered air connection was originally installed into the brake relay valve here. We unscrewed it and screwed it into the bottom of our T-fitting right here, thus giving us the necessary air connection to supply air to the brakes on our Jeep.Now we find ourselves inside our motorhome. We're going to be working right underneath our steering wheel. To the lower left of our steering wheel we applied our sticker to the dash here for our indicator light. We then drilled a hole in our dash, placed our light through passing the two wires through. We extended the two wires from our indicator light and then we have them attached to our brake controller harness inside of the motorhome.The red wire goes to the blue wire. This is the electric trailer brake output on the back of our motorhome and this is how we're passing the signal to the light to turn on. This black wire here is our ground wire and we had that attached to the white wire, which is the ground wire on our brake control harness. This way when the brakes are being applied inside of our Jeep it will turn on our indicator light and we'll know that everything's working properly.That completes our look at and installation of the Roadmaster BrakeMaster System with BrakeAway, part number RM-9160, on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited with our 2016 Jayco Seneca motorhome on a Freightliner chassis.

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Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
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Kathleen M
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
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Employee Shane H
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Employee David F
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David F
Employee Ryan G
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Ryan G

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