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Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2013 Honda CR-V

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How to Install a Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2013 Honda CR-V


Today on our 2013 Honda CRV we'll be installing the Roadmaster Taillight Wiring Kit with bulbs, part number RM-155. First thing we need to do is get our vehicle ready. To do that we need to remove the taillights. We'll start off by opening up the back hatch where there are two Phillips head fasteners that we need to remove. We'll take our taillight and pull it this way until we can work it loose. Then there's a guide here that makes you pull it backward. Now we can go ahead and remove our taillight from the vehicle.

To do this we'll go ahead and take out the sockets. It helps to push in a bit and give it about a one inch of a turn and it should come loose. We'll set our driver side taillight to the side and repeat this process on the passenger side. There isn't much choice given to where we can mount our new bulb and socket so we'll go ahead and install it here. We'll use our hole saw as a guide to make a mark and to create an equal distance between here and here. We'll set our hole saw aside for now and drill out a pilot hole first.

Then come back at it with our larger size hole saw. Now we'll give our bulb and socket a quick test fit. You can see that it's slightly loose. That's because these tabs are tilted in a little bit. We'll take a small screwdriver and pry them out. We'll test it again, still loose we'll just have to bend those tabs out some more.

This is not going to be super tight, but it will be snug. Then we'll take some silicone and go around the edges to seal up the holes. The seal that we'll be using is Lock Tite RTV Silicone, part number LT37467. We'll go ahead and repeat this process on the other taillight. Next we'll do one more step to get our wires ready. We'll strip them back and add the butt connectors.

We're using two different sizes. Our yellow butt connector will go to the brown wire our running light wire. This is because this wire will act as a jumper wire meaning it'll run over to the other taillight as well and connect to this brown wire. Our red wire will be our turn signal. Since it won't have to share it it'll get the smaller butt connector. Then our black wire, our ground wire, will also get a larger butt connector as it'll have to be carried over to the other taillight as well. Now on our passenger side taillight we'll go ahead and use a yellow butt connector for our ground as well and the remaining two wires will get the small blue butt connectors. This is the rolled wire that comes with the kit. It has two four pole ends on it and since we only need one we'll go ahead and cut the other end off. While we're at it we'll cut the ties off the wire. Taking the end we cut off from and leading it through the backside of the driver's side taillight. We'll then pull I t down from the bottom. As you can see in this particular vehicle it has a cover on the bottom side. If you need to remove this you simply loosen these plastic fasteners by taking a screwdriver and popping out the centers. Then you can go ahead and pull the cover out of the way and get access to the wires. Luckily there's a hitch installed on this vehicle so there's a hole cut here. We'll just reach up and grab our wires. With the wires pulled down we'll go ahead and fish the wires across to the passenger side. To do this we'll be using an old piece of airline tubing. However, any piece of wire that can hold it's shape will work just as well. There should be a gap on the passenger's side that we can reach into and pull out the airline tubing. Now we'll use some electric tape and connect our four wires to the tubing and pull it through. Once it's pulled through disconnect the wires from the tubing. Then we'll lower the tubing back through the passenger side taillight and again connect the wires using tape. Now we can pull them up into position. Once that's done we'll go ahead and remove the tubing and zip tie the wires that we've pulled up onto the vehicle wires to make sure they don't fall back down. Now we'll take some time and split up our wires. We'll need the ground and running light wires as well as the green wire. The yellow wire is not necessary on this side so we'll just cut that off. We'll start on the white wire on the passenger side. We'll fold the length we have in half, cut it, and strip back both ends. We'll splice those ends together and they'll go to the black taillight wire with the butt connector. On the other end we'll add a ring terminal and attach it to the sheet metal behind the taillight. Next we'll take our two remaining wires and cut them to length. We'll strip those back as well and then we can go ahead and connect them to the taillight as well. Now we'll go ahead and attach our ground wire. We'll use this area here because it doubles up with the sheet metal making a better ground area. After that we'll connect our factory wires. To make sure we don't scratch the paint on the vehicle we went ahead and placed a towel between the light and the vehicle. Now we'll make our connections to the taillight starting with the ground wire to the black wire. Our green wire will go to red and our brown wire will go to the brown wire from the bulb. With that done we can use some tape to protect our connections. Then we can go ahead and reattach the taillight. Next we'll move back to the driver's side and make our connections there. We'll take up some of our slack here, like with the passenger side we'll zip tie our wire to the factory harness. Then we'll take our four pole end that we routed to the front of the vehicle and drop it down behind the taillight as well. We'll leave a loop here to hang out and eventually connect them to the taillights. With that done we'll take our taillight and reconnect the factory bulbs. Next we'll go ahead and separate our wires. We'll start with our white wire. We'll fold it over, cut it, and strip it back. Then we'll splice the two ends together and add them to the black wire on the new bulb. Now you can see that the wire will carry from the four pole through here and back to the passenger side as well. This will also apply to the brown wire for our running light circuit. On our left turn signal, our yellow wire, will only need to stay at this side going to our four pole. We'll just cut it and strip it back and connect it to the red wire from our new bulb. Now we can tape them up and reconnect out driver's side taillight. Now we can pull our four pole down and route it towards the front of the vehicle. When routing the four pole upfront you want to avoid any hot spots or moving parts such as suspension and exhaust. You can see how we snaked it through here, then back over the top of the sub-frame of the rear suspension. Then we followed the parking brake cable and zip tied the wires to it. We then hid the wires underneath this panel. It was easy to remove just like plastic rivets from before. Basically we just loosened up panels and made our way up front. After that we pushed out up front till we can get a hold of it right here and then we pushed up further until we reached the top. We'll leave the wires alone for now and install a bracket to hold them. This came with the base plate kit that was already installed in the vehicle, which is part number 521567-1. We'll be using some self-tapping screws to help hold it in place. We'll take our four pole and attach it to the bracket. Now we'll zip tie the access wires up and out of the way. With everything installed let's put power to the four pole and test our connections. First we'll turn on the running light circuit. Next left turn. Then the right turns and now the brake signal. Okay with everything working that'll do it for Roadmaster Taillight Wiring Kit with bulbs, part number RM-155 on our 2013 Honda CRV. .

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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