Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install the Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit on a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox


Hello, everybody. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer.com we install, test and review a ton of different products to help you, as the customer, make a more educated decision before your purchase. Today we're going to be working on a 2015 Chevy Equinox. Now we're going to be taking a look at and I'll be walking you through how to install the Roadmaster Direct Connect Base Plate Kit. Our base plate is going to be one of those key components in our flat towing setup.

It connects our tow bar to our towed vehicle. And with that being said, our components for this flat tow in particular are our base plate, our tow bar, our diode wiring, our safety cables, our supplemental braking system, our stoplight switch and our fuse bypass. Now my professional opinion of Roadmaster base plates are some of the best ones out there. Their build quality is second to none. They're built out of steel.

They have a really nice black powder coat finish and they go together pretty easily. Now, in this particular case, we didn't have to drill any holes. So that made it a lot easier as well. And as far as disconnecting everything we just want to take our safety cables off. We just remove our retaining clip, and unplug our diode wiring and push our tow bar out of the way.

And then to take our removable arm out. We're just going to pull out, kind of rotate this down and release it. As you can see, it looks pretty clean on the front of our Equinox. And another thing I like is it has posts to mount our six way plug and then it also has brackets to mount our breakaway switch. So this is what it's going to look like every day.

It just kind of fits in this lower part of the fascia. We only had to do minor trimming, so it looks really nice. It almost looks factory. And as far as reconnecting all of our components it's going to be the same on each side. One side's gonna have diode wiring and the other side's gonna have your breakaway switch but we'll just get all this hooked back up. I just want to start with our ring facing down. We'll push in and then turn until you hear it lock We just wanna lift our tow bar into place and slide our pins through and make sure to add our retaining fan on the backside. Put those on, we can just click back on our safety chain link. Now in terms of installation, like I said we're not gonna have to drill any holes. It goes on pretty easy and really taking this fascia off, wasn't too bad. That being said, I'll go ahead and show you how to get it installed now. To start our installation we're going to have four T 20 Torx bits that run along the front of our grill. We're now gonna remove two push pin fasteners here on our panel by our headlight. We're going to do this on both sides. You can use a trim panel tool or a small flat bladed screwdriver you just kind of want to work around that lip, until we get this pried up. You're starting to get this pried up a little bit and we'll come in with our trim panel tool. Just kind of pull up on those push pins and there's going to be two in the same location, on the other side. We're now gonna need to remove a seven millimeter bolt located right here at the front corner of our fascia. It's going to be straight up screwed in to our upper fender. Get this removed. We'll repeat that same process on the other side. We're now going to be removing two T20 Torx bits out of our front fender liner. There's going to be one located up here by where we removed that seven millimeter bolt and then one down here in the middle between our two push pins. We'll repeat that same process, on the other side. You're now gonna have two plastic push pin fasteners and we'll remove these the same way that we did the ones in the engine bay. We'll repeat that same process, on the other side. Under our front lip here, we're going to have two seven millimeter bolts that we need to remove. There's going to be two on each side. Now we'll grab an extra set of hands to help us pull our fascia off on the other side, that way it doesn't fall off. We're just going to pull out on our corners. With those screws removed, it's gonna be pretty easy. We just want to work our way to the middle, carefully pulling out all of those tabs. If you have fog lights we're going to go ahead and disconnect that wiring now. The easiest way to do that is going to be to twist our bulbs out, set our fascia off to the side and then take our plug off and put the bulbs back in. Now, it's very important that you don't touch this kind of bulb as it can cause premature wear to your actual bulb. To remove it, all you wanna do is pull out on these little tabs, then kind of pry it backwards, like so. Then we'll take this over to our fascia and re-install it how we took it out. We're just going to stick our bulb then and then twist it to where our plug is facing the bottom. Make sure to do this for both bulbs. We're now going to be working behind our factory bumper beam. There's going to be five push pin fasteners securing our wiring harness. We're just going to grab our trim panel tool and then pry out on those. They're almost like zip ties that are fastened to the end of that bumper beam. So we're just going to pry out on those and get those tabs removed. Like I said, there is going to be five of these. And if you are having trouble getting those push pin fasteners, this is a good little pro tip for you. You can grab a set of needle nose pliers, kind of pinch in on the sides and then push that fastener back in. It's kinda hard to get that push pin fastener back there just with the shape of our bumper beam. Moving up to the ends of our bumper beams. We're going to have three 13 millimeter bolts on each side that we're going to need to remove. We'll repeat that same process for these two. On this third bolt, we're not going to actually take it all the way out. We're just going to loosen it up and leave a couple of threads on. Then we'll take our other bolts off on the other side. This is going to keep our bumper beam supported. That way, once we take all the hardware out it doesn't just fall on us. Now with all of our hardware loose we can take that last bolt out on the side. We can carefully lower our bumper beam down and set it off to the side. And now we're gonna remove this fastener that holds our wiring to our main bracket on our frame. It's going to grab our trim panel tool. Kinda pull out on this. There is going to be one on each side. Again, that might be kind of tough to get under here but you just have to give some patience and kind of wiggle it around to get underneath that little clamp. Just like that. We'll repeat that same process on the other side. Now we'll grab our factory hardware for our bumper beam. We're just going to add red lock tight to these and all new hardware or re-installed hardware moving forward. And that's gonna lift our base plate up into place. We're just gonna get a couple threads started with one bolt on each side. That way our base plate can support itself. You do wanna make sure your wiring is not being pinched behind your base plate. Those bolts started. We'll now reinstall our two bolts on each side. Now our instructions are going to tell us to tighten everything down all the way and then torque it. But it's going to be a little bit easier to work if we leave this hardware loose. So we're just going to wire a few more threads in on each side. That way we have some adjustability and our base plate and mounting bracket here is they're going to have to add some more bracketing underneath and on the back. So it's going to be a lot harder to get everything kind of playing nicely with it all tightened down. If we leave it nice and loose we'll have a little bit of adjustability. And once we have all of that bracketing installed you can come back and torque it all the way down. We're now gonna be removing this bolt from our sub frame. You wanna make sure to only do this one side at a time and be removing this with an 18 millimeter socket. We're gonna grab the really long bullets provided in our kit with a split lock washer. We're gonna slide that through our long bracket. You want to slide it through with the bolt facing with the bend, just like this. We're gonna have a big spacer. We're going to slide that on like so and this bolt is gonna go right back in that hole of our sub frame that we just removed. We're just going to get a couple of threads going on it for now. And I wanna line up the front of our bracket here. We're going to take our shorter bolt with some red lock tight. Then on the backside, we're going to add a split lock washer and a provided hex nut. We'll repeat that same process for this hole here. With our hardware loosely installed, we're gonna repeat that same process on the other side. For our bolt land to our sub frame we're going to tighten that down with a 22 millimeter socket. Again, we're just going to snug these down. We don't want to torque them all the way down. That way if we do have to make any adjustments they'll be a little bit easier. Now I'm gonna tighten up those top bolts using a 19 millimeter. Now I'm gonna lower down our washer fluid tank. We're going to have three, 10 millimeter bolts one located here, one located down here, and one located up here. With this removed, we're just gonna let it hang. I'm just going to slide this out of the way and it will support itself. Now I'm gonna remove this 10 millimeter nut holding on our horn. Just let our horn kind of hang out like this. And then we'll reattach that in a few minutes. Now I'm gonna grab our driver's side top bracket. We want this opening, facing towards the driver's side with our hole and our notch on the upside. Now, what we're gonna do is we're going to turn this kind of slide it back behind all of our wiring, then up and around. We're gonna lift up on our wiring here, just kind of slide that around. That notch is gonna protect all of our wiring. We want this hole to line up with the opening in the back of our cross frame here. I want to take the plate with the hole in it. We're going to slide that kind of behind, like so, We're going to take our longer bolt with some red lock tight, just kind of feed that through our front bracket and that hole in our back plate. They might have to turn this to try to find the right orientation for it. As it is kind of tight behind our washer tank. Then on the backside of that we're going to be adding a split lock washer and a hex nut. Now we're gonna take these, slide them through the holes in the top of our upper bracket and our base plate. And this is the main reason we left our hardware loose. As you can see, this bolt doesn't want to go through there. We just want to push on our base plate here and kind of wiggle our upper bracket around, slide that bolt through. And on the backside, we're going to be adding a split lock washer and hex nut. This spot is going to be kinda tight. I just want to get that started, like so, and repeat that same process for the other opening. Here's our hardware loosely installed on this side. We're going to repeat that same process on the other side. With all of our hardware completely installed, we're now ready to come back and snug everything down. Now you don't want to over-tighten it cause we do need to make sure it's torqued to a specific number. And again, those can be found in our instructions. With everything tightened down, we're now ready to come back and torque it down. Now we'll reinstall our horns on each side and our washer fluid tank in reverse order that we took them apart. With everything torqued down our base plate installation is now complete. With our fascia off, this is going to be a really good time to install any other flat towing components you might have. That's what we're going to do in our case. So we'll catch up with you, whenever we're ready to trim our fascia. These are the diagram, in our instructions. I just trimmed out these corner pieces on each side with the Dremel tool. That way it'll fit around our base plate nicely. With our fascia re-installed and everything hooked up for our flat tow. We're ready to hit the road. That's going to do it for our look at and the installation of the Roadmaster Direct Connect Base Plate Kit on our 2015 Chevy Equinox..


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Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O

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