Reese Quick-Install Custom Base Rails Installation - 2015 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Reese Quick-Install Custom Base Rails on a 2015 Ford F-250


Today, on this 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty, we're gonna review and install the Reese Quick-Install Custom Installation Kit with Base Rails for fifth wheel trailer hitches.All right, this is what the rails look like when it's installed in the bed of your truck. You see it's a conventional 10 bolt system with two rails that can attach to your fifth wheel, or gooseneck adapter.Let's take a closer look at some of the details here. You notice all these slots on top for rails on both of them. These are intended for different size hitches that are out there. Some are wider than others depending on weight capacity, and also the narrower ones here are used for your gooseneck adapter hitches.Installation-wise, this is a 10 bolt system. You can count five bolts on each rail.

These are the only holes that you drill into your truck. When we go underneath the vehicle, we'll see the brackets and there's no drilling required underneath there.Here's our side bracket. We're looking under the driver's side of the truck. There's one continuous piece of steel that attaches to the truck using existing holes here and here. All of the hardware is included with the hitch.

Gonna be grade five or above to install this hitch.Now checking out the reviews for our hitch, you can see a common theme is how well it fits. If we take a look at the frame bracket, you can see that it does fit flat on the frame. However; wherever it needs it, if you look on the holes here, depending on the truck and accessories that it's built with, either gas or diesel, long or short bed, it can accommodate that frame.Now this is the Reese product and of course they'll work with Reese hitches, but also work with Draw-tite, Hidden Hitch, Pro-Series, Valley and Husky hitches. Although the one Reese hitch it will not fit will be the Reese Elite Series or the Valley UBS series hitches.First part of our install is to remove the spare tire to give us some extra work room underneath. And also we wanna lift the frame off the suspension using some jacks and some stands to give you more work room underneath here 'cause you're gonna need that.We'll start off in the bed of our truck by laying out our rails.

We need a measurement from the edge of the bed, not from the tailgate, going up towards the truck, as described in the instructions. So measure it out. Now mark it. We're gonna do this on two sides of the truck. That way so when I put my rail up to it, it'll be even.Now that I have my front to rear distance set, I'm gonna measure left to right at these seams on both sides, to make sure it's equal left to right.Next I'll carefully find the center of the hole here, and using a 1/8" drill bit, I'm gonna drill through the bed.

And you have to always end up on that seam right there. Now we'll drill out these two on the outside here and we'll also drill out this hole right here for center. Over here on our passenger side, we'll do the same thing we did on our driver's side.We'll check our work by taking a frame bracket. We're on the driver's side here. We'll hold it, make sure if this bracket fits around the hatch handle here. Push up against the frame and make it sure it lines up the holes we drilled. We're gonna look for our drilled holes out in the center of our frame. Once we're satisfied with our pilot holes, we'll go ahead and drill it out. I like to use two bits. Roughly, maybe 1/2" then finish off with 9/16" drill bit. You will have two layers of metal to go through, by the way. We'll continue the same process for our remaining holes.We'll clean off all our tailings from our drilling and then we'll seal off our hole using some spray paint, or you can use some clear coat as well.Okay, we'll get out of the bed of the truck and move on to the brackets that go on to the side of the frame. Put them back where they we're originally and we checked our drill holes. Then we're gonna take our hardware that's provided with the kit, we'll put it through these holes here and here. At this point you want an extra set of hands to help hold this up in place while I install the hardware on the back, which will be these handle nuts.Looking on the inside of the frame on our driver's side, here's our bolt and here's our handle nut. We'll start them on and when we tighten it down you can see how the handle nut will hit the side of our frame. There's one here and we'll do the same one going up towards the front. You have to reach over the wiring and the lines to get to it though, but it can be done. We'll also repeat the same process over on the passenger side, which is a lot easier. I'm gonna hold my bracket up against the bottom of the bed, and I'll snug down the bolts using an 18 millimeter socket. Now I just wanna snug them down, not gonna tighten them down fully. I just wanna take up the slack.We're getting close to installing the hardware from the bed to the frame bracket. However; to do that there's this gap between this piece of metal here, the hatch handle, and where the corrugation goes up. We have to fill it up with a piece of metal. To make it easier, take a pry bar or a big screwdriver, and try to work that hatch handle down a little bit, just enough to help get the spacer block to go in there. This is the spacer block that needs to fit up against the corrugation and slide in and over the hatch handle. That way we got constant metal to metal contact all the way through. A lot of times it's gonna be a tight fit pushing this in there. You may have to tap it into place. We'll have to repeat this same process on this side, and eventually on the hatch handle going toward the front of our truck as well. And also on both sides of the truck.You can see the corner of our block that we pushed in. You wanna use an alignment tool or maybe a big screwdriver to help get it into the right spot so it doesn't overlap the hole. We'll take a rail, put it over top of it and drop our 2" long carriage bolts. Any luck, they'll go through both pieces and out the bottom and we can attach our hardware. We got these two done, we'll drop one into center, and the other two on the other side.On the bottom, we'll need to attach this block with the round hole. Conical tooth washer, you notice there's teeth on the washer. That's gonna go facing towards the block. Then a 1/2" nut. Now it may help to have somebody in the bed to help push down the bolt to help get it started as well. We got our hardware installed here and here. And repeat that same process on the other side of our truck.On our bolt on center, I pushed it back out 'cause I have to put this block again, to make metal, metal contact through here. So I'm just gonna slide it, get started. I did pull this out a little bit and I'll just work it in. I'll pry it in and I'll drop my bolt back through. I'll install the conical tooth washer and nut.Now I'll find a placement for our second rail. To do that, we'll be using the hitch that we'll be using with the truck. I'll line up with the first rail we put in, make sure it fits okay. Then align the second one. That'll put it in place for us. We'll check for square and then mark and drill our holes just like we did with the front rail.I also like to put the pins into place to make sure it all centers up properly in the rail. And I'll check for square on each side.Now we'll drill them out just like we did before. Our pilot bit, we'll double check on the bottom, drill out our 9/16" hole. When we do that, we'll take all the hardware and pieces out of the way for our last hole size.Now our hardware's gonna be pretty much the same. We have our spacer block in between the hatch handle and the bed frame. Here's our bolt, and we're still gonna add another flat block, a conical tooth washer, and a nut. The main difference being that this does attach to the bed support here. There's not a frame bracket for this bolt to attach to.With all the hardware in place now we can go ahead, hand tighten all our bolts. I wanna hand tighten my bolts going to the frame bracket, to the cross rail on top. Now to tighten all this down I'm using a 3/4" socket. After I have these hand tight on both sides I wanna double check my hitch to make sure I can easily remove it and put it back into the rails. Then I'll torque these bolts down as specified in the instructions.Now we'll tighten down the frame brackets to the frame and we'll be using an 18 millimeter socket for that.Now I'm finished with the Reese Quick-Install Custom Installation Kit on this 2015 Ford F-250 Super Duty. Video: Etrailer.comExpert service800.298.8924.


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