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Reese Quick-Install 5th Wheel Base Rails Kit Installation - 2009 Ford F-250

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How to Install the Reese Quick-Install 5th Wheel Base Rails Kit on a 2009 Ford F-250

Speaker 1: Today on our 2009 Ford F250 we'll be having a look at and installing the Reese quick install custom base rails and installation kit for fifth wheel trailer hitches, part number RP50082-58. Here's what our rails look like installed. These are industry standard rails which will accept many gooseneck adapters and other rail mounted accessories. These outboard mounted rails make for a quick and easy install and helps cut installation time almost in half compared to universal mounted rail kits. Now, compared to other rails systems on the market, these don't stick up very high above the bed of our truck at all, giving us maximum amount of bed space that we can utilized. Now when we have a plastic drop-in bed liner such as this truck, once we've cut out around it in order to install our rails properly you can see that it almost sits even with our plastic drop-in bed liner, giving us the maximum ability to lay stuff flat in the bed of our truck.One great feature about these rails is the high gloss black power coat finish that they have will offer a superior rust and corrosion prevention over the years.

These rails are super easy to use when securing your gooseneck or fifth wheel adapters. We'll show you now with our fifth wheel head. Simply take your fifth wheel, drop it down into place, and you secure it with pins and clips. Just like that, once you've secured all four corners you're ready to hook up to your particular style of trailer.Now that we've gone over some features of our Reese outboard rails, we'll show you how to get them installed. First thing we need to see is if our vehicle is equipped with a plastic drop-in bed liner such as the F250 that we have here today, we need to put our rails in the approximate position of where they're going to go.

In order to get those appropriate measurements that you can find in the instructions, you measure from the end of the bed, not the end of your tailgate. Once we get our rail in the appropriate general area where it's going to reside, we measured out about an inch around our rail, all the way around it and made some marks. We placed our unassembled fifth wheel head on this rail so we can line and position for the second rail, and we did the same thing. Now we're going to cut out these large squares so we have full metal to metal contact with our rail underneath the bed liner. You have multiple ways of doing this.

I'm going to do it with the bed liner still in the bed of the truck. If you'd like you could remove it and use a jigsaw and you can cut through it really quickly. I'm just going to use a rotary tool in order to do this.Okay, now that we've got it trimmed we can just lift up on it and we can set it aside, and we'll do the same for the other rail. Okay, with our second one notched we can start the removal process. Now that we have where our rails are going to sit trimmed out we need to find where the exact spot is that our back rail's going to sit.

To do that we'll take our tape measure. With it slid underneath our bed liner and hooked to the end of our bed now, we can measure out where the back edge of our rear rail is going to sit, and we'll make several marks so that it's in the appropriate spot. We'll also measure from side to side to ensure that we're centered. Now with our marks made we can take our rail, slide it so that it hits those marks that we made, and we can make our pilot holes at this point in time.Now for our back rail we'll be drilling five pilot holes. We'll be using the end ones here, furthest out on both sides of the rail, and then the center one here closest to the front of the vehicle. We'll drill a small pilot hole to start. Okay, now we'll take our frame bracket on the passenger side of the truck, and we'll be doing the same thing on the driver's side. We want to make sure that the holes that we drilled line up with the slots for the rear side of our rail bracket. We'll slide this in position and we can see that our holes are lining up dead center with our bracket, so this is exactly where we want them. Now on our driver's side frame rail, if your vehicle has a gasoline engine you'll have this hose running over the top of the frame rail. We need to take a trim panel tool here, or a flat head screw driver, and help pop this hose loose from the top of the frame rail, just like that. This will give us room to get our brackets into place.Now, again on gasoline engine equipped vehicles we have two hoses on the inside of our driver's side frame rail. We need to pop these loose using a trim panel tool. In some instances you may have a bolt on the outside edge of the frame that you can remove. We don't have that. Ours is just clipped in place. With that popped loose we'll be able to get our hardware in place now. Now that we've verified that our holes are lined up and we have everything out of the way of our frame that's going to potentially be in the way, we can take our rail, get it out of the way and we'll enlarge our holes with a step bit to the appropriate size. Now to help prevent some rust well use some spray paint around the inside edge of our holes that we drilled out. This will keep them from having rust over the course of time. If you have a spray-in bed liner, that's great for you. You can just use flat black spray paint. If you don't have that, clear coat's your best option, that way you don't have to worry about it matching the bed of your truck.Now that our clear coat's dried, we'll take our U shaped spacers and we'll stick them down inside the corrugation next to our outer holes. We'll make sure our U faces towards our hole, and we'll do this on all four corners. The reason I'm putting these in place is so our bed is not crushed when we tighten down our hardware, ensuring metal to metal contact. With those in place we'll set our rail back down into position. Now we'll drop down our carriage bolts. You can see where our bolts drop down for our rail. Now we'll take our frame bracket and we'll slide it up onto those bolts. We'll take one of our spacers here, stick it onto our bolt, place on a lock washer and we'll thread on a nut. We'll use this to help support the weight of the frame bracket so we can install the frame hardware. We'll get one started for now, and that will be good for us. We'll get our second one on now.Now we'll take our block for our frame, slide it between the frame and our frame bracket and this will take up the gap between the two. We'll take our carriage bolt and insert it through the hole. Then we'll knock our carriage bolt into the hole in the frame. Here's where our bolt comes through behind where those emissions lines were. We'll slide our block onto the bolt now. We'll slide on our 5/8 lock washer and then our 5/8 nut. We're just doing everything loosely attached right now. Now we'll take our U-bolt. We'll slide it behind our emissions line here, go behind this one here too, rotate it and get it into the holes in our bracket. Now we'll take our conical tooth washer, the teeth will face towards our frame bracket, slide it over our U-bolt and we'll loosely thread on our nut. We'll do the same for the upper part of the U-bolt up here. Now that we have our driver's side frame bracket in place we can repeat the same process on the passenger's side. It is a lot easier because there's no fuel lines, emissions lines or break lines that are in the way.Now that we have our frame brackets in place and our hardware loosely started for our rear rail, we'll use our fifth wheel to get the proper positioning for our front rail. Now that we've dropped in our fifth wheel head to center our rails up in place we made sure they're parallel with each other by measuring the distance between our rails on both sides, made sure our rails are centered in our truck bed. Now we will drill out our appropriate holes. We'll be using our two outermost holes yet again. For our center hole this time we will be using the hole that's closest to the end of the truck bed, closest to our other rail. Okay, with our pilot holes made now, we can take our fifth wheel head, raise it up, slide it out of the way, take our rail and get it out of the way, and we'll enlarge our holes to the appropriate size. With all of our holes enlarged we'll use our clear coat again to make sure we don't get any rust.All right, with our clear coat dry I'll take our rail, place it back over the holes and we'll drop down our carriage bolts, making sure we have our blocks in on the sides. Now we'll place our fifth wheel back into place on our rails. Okay, here's where our bolts came down on the side for our front rail. We'll place our block on up again, followed by a lock washer, and then we'll put on a nut. The other bolt's the same way. Now we'll do the same on the other side. Now underneath the bed of our truck we'll place on our conical tooth washer. These are for the center bolts and our nut. The teeth of the washer will face straight up, and before we tighten up our nut all the way we'll slide in one of our U-shaped spacers so that our bed is not crushed when we tighten up the nut. We'll do the same for the front one, too.Now we'll begin our tightening sequence. We'll start with tightening up our nuts that attach our rails to our frame brackets. We'll use a 3/4 inch socket for this. We're going to repeat the same process on the other side, now. Now we'll tighten our frame bracket to the truck frame. We'll do our U-bolts here first. Now we'll use a 15/16 socket to tighten up our big carriage bolt. Now we'll torque our bolts in the same sequence to the amount specified in the instructions. Last, but not least, we'll torque our under bed bolts here.That completes our look at and installation of the Reese quick install custom base rails and installation kit for fifth wheel trailer hitches, part number RP50082-58 on our 2009 Ford F250.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
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Joe V
Employee Randy B
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Randy B
Employee Brent H
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Brent H
Employee Zack K
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Zack K
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
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Andrew L
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Employee Cole B
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