Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2012 Toyota 4Runner

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How to Install the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite Trailer Brake Controller on a 2012 Toyota 4Runner

Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 Toyota 4Runner, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Redarc Tow Pro Elite Proportional Trailer Brake Controller. This is going to work for trailers with one to three axles. Part number is 331-EBRH-ACCB2.Here's what our Redarc Brake Controller is going to look like installed. As you can see, this is a lot different than most of the brake controllers out there on the market. This is all that's going to be visible. We just got our control mount here.

This is going to take care of our manual override lever, our gain control, and our mode adjustment, so everything we need to get to is going to be located right here, easily accessible.Now, the Tow Pro Elite is really going to give you the best of both worlds when it comes to brake controller setups. The proportional aspect's going to be great for you when you're traveling on road or just kind of normal situations. It gives you the less powerful braking in your just normal stop situations. If you need a little bit more aggressive braking, if you get on your brakes much more quickly in an emergency type situation, it's going to come up much more quickly. It's going to give us the braking force we need more immediately.When we are done on the road and when we head off road, that's where the Tow Pro Elite really, really shines.

It has what's called a user control mode, and in this mode, whatever you have your gain set at, as soon as you hit the brakes, you get that braking power. If you had it set at zero, your brake controller's not going to activate. That's going to be for going down hill through some more ridden areas where the deceleration may be felt. That's going to, in otherwise, tell that brake controller you're trying to slow down and it should apply the brakes when maybe we don't want it to.Then we can turn that up to whatever gain control we want. As soon as we hit those brakes, we get that braking force, so if we are going more of a sandy kind of area or a muddy area, we don't necessarily want our trailer to be freewheeling, it might push us down that hill.

Having that readily available, soon as we hit the brakes we get the braking power we want, is going to be really handy when it comes to those situations.Now, the button acts, as we said, as your manual override lever. Simply by pressing down on it, whatever gain setting that you have dialed in, that's the gain that's going to be sent to our trailer. You can see the higher that goes, the more intensely red the light's going to be lit. When completely off, if it happens to get accidentally bumped, as you'll see, it's not going to send any power through.Now, to switch from proportional into user control mode, we're going to turn our Redarc controller all the way down to zero. I'm going to apply the brake in our car, and then just press down on that knob twice.

The green light is going to indicate that user controlled mode, which again, whatever gain that we have dialed in is going to be immediately sent to the trailer when we press our brakes. Now, to switch back, we'll just repeat that process.Now, when we compare the Redarc Tow Pro Elite to other brake controllers that we have available, the discreet location placement I think is really cool. You don't have to have a big brake controller screwed into your dashboard there where you can get to it, it's just going to be like a speaker control knob, or something like that. I also like that it has the dual modes. You're going to either choose a proportional brake controller or a time delayed brake controller. There's not really the option of that user controlled mode available with any of the other controllers out there. I think it's easy to use. The manual override's just a press of a button rather than the switch of the lever, so you're really not losing anything with the Tow Pro Elite, we're just gaining that user control function, which will come in really handy.Now, with the Tow Pro Elite being something that's new here to the United States, during our research we had to look in other places. One of the most popular areas that you really find these being talked about a lot is going to be over in Australia. They do a lot of the off road and caravaning, and what they are saying about it is, mainly that it's going to work really, really good on road, but then as you go off road you're going to have all of the advantages without the disadvantages of trailer brakes.Now, to begin our installation we're going to get our pigtail installed. This is designed to plug in right underneath the dashboard. It's going to be in behind the parking brake, we'll show you where that's at. The white end plugs into the factory connector. The other end, while this is designed to plug into some brake controllers, isn't going to work with the Redarc. If we cut our wires, we're going to have everything we need right here to attach it to the Redarc pigtail. The white wire's going to have a ring terminal on the end of it. That's going to go to a body screw underneath there, just to give us a secondary source of ground to make sure we've got everything grounded properly.Now, to locate the plug, you want to look in right behind your parking brake. From behind the parking brake, just follow the top of that kick panel you see a wire loom here, it's about the size of a half dollar. You just go straight up on that, you'll see that white plug. It's going to be located right here, just held in place with a little electrical tape, so cut that being careful not to cut anything else, and pull it over here so you can work with it. Now we can take our pigtail, you want to plug that in, you want to hear that little click, that'll be secure.Now, for our ring terminal, we're going to be securing that also near the parking brake pedal here. If we come to this front edge of our kick panel, we'll be right in here on the outside wall of the vehicle. To remove that, you'll want to use a 10 millimeter socket. You'll see with our bolt out, we'll want to place that through our ring terminal, and we're going to put it back in position. Now, it's going to be pretty tough to get that bolt back in place, so what I like to do, you'll see that I just put a little bit of a shock top in my socket. If you press your bolt into that, it'll hold it for you so you won't have to worry about it falling out.Now we can start trimming our wires off the back of our pigtail here. Now, your black wire is going to carry your 12 volt power, so you don't want to cut that and the white one at the same time. Let's take care of the white one, that's our ground. We don't want any shorts, so let's get this stripped back, we'll get a butt connector on there, we won't have to worry about it.Now, I'm going to use part number DW05745. I think the heat shrink, once they're crimped down and shrunk, it's going to give us a really good hold. There's really no danger of moisture or water getting inside the vehicle, but we want to make sure we don't have any issues down the road with these coming apart. The same thing there for our blue wire. The red wire, I'm going to use a blue one, which is going to be again, just designed for smaller gauge wire. The blue one's will be DW05744. Last we'll do there will be that black, which carries our 12 volt current.For the pigtail that comes with our controller is going to be pre-stripped. I like to twist it, just kind of pull them off. You can use the butt connectors provided with the kit as well if you choose, you just have to cut your wires back just a little bit, because that, what's pre-stripped will be too long. With ours, we can go just a little longer. Now, the blue wire from our pigtail is going to go to the blue wire from our controller. Every other wire is just going to be color matched; white to white, red to red, and black to black. Then you just want to pull on each one of those, make sure you got a really good connection.Then we can get those shrank down using a lighter or a heat gun. Now, if you're going to be using a lighter, you just want to do gentle heat around it. You don't want to let it sit in one spot so long that it melts your connector, but you do want to warm it up. Warming it up allows it to shrink. When it's shrank down properly, it's going to look like your wire magnifies, you can see how it looks like it gets thicker. Then at the very end, once it's fully shrank, there will be a little bit of clear gel that comes out.The next thing we'll work on will be getting our controller put in place, the controller knob. We're going to be using this knockout plate, it's designed for that to fit right up inside. Now, the great thing about this particular style of knockout plate is that, you can see with the round design, you can drill a hole in your dashboard and then slip this in. That's going to give you a nice, clean appearance, or it works out really well for the factory knockouts. We've got one here and one here, a couple in the dash, we're going to be able to take advantage of that. We're putting it right underneath there.Now, to gain access, you want to start by removing the shifter knob and cup holder here. Shifter knob, this is just going to unthread. Set that aside, and then for the cup holder, if you grab it you should just be able to lift straight up on it. It'll come out like that, just uses a few clips to hold it in place. Now we'll start lifting up to remove this cover. It's going to come off all the way around here, around this back edge, and all the way around this area. Again, we're just going to start lifting up on it, start popping our clips loose. Once you have it about 3/4 of the way removed, there's going to be a small clip here you need to separate. That just provides power for a few of the switches there. Then get that up and out of the way.There's going to be the back of that outer and that inner knockout plug. Use your best judgment and look underneath the panel here, because we need enough room for the switch housing. It sticks in there pretty far, so you just want to make sure we're going to have the room we need to inaudible 00:10:45 when everything's back in place. Now we'll remove our knockout plug. It's just going to have a little push clip on each side, the front and the back, so push these in, just kind of wiggle it to push it out.Then the bottom side of our knockout here, there's this little lip. It starts right there at the top of my thumb and it comes up to here. That's preventing our knockout plug from sliding in, so we're just going to use a sanding wheel there. Just take off that material on both sides to give us room. You can see we've rounded out each side there. Now we'll just check it again, you can see it's going to slide in there without any real issue. It doesn't exactly lock into place, so we'll use a little silicone sealant around that just to make sure we don't have any movement on that. Before we do that, let's go ahead and build it.Now, we can just take that and we'll replace our switch right inside. See the little LED light on top, that's going to pass right through that little hole on top, which is going to allow us to see that light when we have our knob in there. Then we've got the gray cap that's going to go over, and that's going to go right through the middle of both of those, and it's going to thread on the front side of our switch. Pretty fine thread, so make sure it gets started properly. We've got a 12 millimeter wrench, we can just continue to tighten that down. We don't need to over-tighten this, this is just to hold this in place and all the force is going to be rotational. We can align the hole in that cover with the light, tighten it down just a little bit right there so it'll be nice and square.Now we're ready to get the actual unit mounted itself. Now, this needs to be firm mounted to something, you can't just zip tie it off in an out of the way location. The great news about the Redarc system is it does not matter where you mount this. You can mount it upside down, sideways, on any angle that you choose to get it up and out of the way. The biggest key here, you can see the plug here, this needs to be able to reach our switch. On the other side, we need to ensure that our pigtail is going to reach that location. As long as both of our cables will plug into the sides and reach our switch, we're going to be in good shape.Now, a good area for that box to go will be up in this area. That'll give us good reach of our pigtail and our plug. You just want to pull out on the top, there's two clips here to separate, then you pull straight back on it and that'll come out for you. Now we'll use a drill bit. You want to drill holes, the hole's just about a 3/32, and we're just going to use some machine screws. You can pick them up at the hardware store to get them installed, unless you already have some at the house. We'll run this in from the outside, just to give us a nice look. That'll really be all we'll see on the outside of that panel. I'm just going to use a Philips to tighten these down.Now we'll bring our wire that goes to our switch right up behind this panel, you'll be able to reach in and grab it there and help it through. The plug from our pigtail is going to go in this side. Now we can get that put back into position. Now we'll run that wire to go to our switch, just right around behind the shifter there. I'm going to zip tie it off right down here to the wire loom. Just going to prevent this cable from ever coming out under our floor board there. Then we'll just plug that right into the bottom of that switch and get our center console back in place.Now, you do want to be sure that you have your plug plugged back in here too, or your switch won't work for that rear window. Put our cup holder and our shifter knob back in, too. Now we're just going to use a few zip ties under the dash here and we'll get our wiring bundled up and out of the way. Just avoid moving parts, of course. You don't want to zip tie this off to your steering shaft or brake pedal or anything like that.Now, with everything tidied up it's time to go out and drive our vehicle. We need to hit the brakes about 20 times so that black box we installed can learn what position it's sitting in, and then after that, we'll never have to learn that box again. It'll be set. Every time we plug in our trailer it's going to be ready for use. See the green and blue flashing lights going You'll want to drive and go through the braking cycle until that turns solid.Now, the bezel provided with the Redarc controller, when using the knockout plug, can cause a little interference in operation. What we found is that as we press down on the controller it wasn't as responsive as what we'd like. We we're able to simply remove the nut just underneath the head or the knob for the controller, remove that bezel, place it back down, now we're getting operation exactly as we'd like. Now, with this removed, you're not going to have the little tab that's going to indicate what power setting you're at. Here, you could simply use the I in trailer as your top center, then adjust accordingly using that as your guide so you know what power level you're going to be set at.Now, with everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Redarc Tow Pro Elite, part number 331-EBRH-ACCB2, also using the universal mounting panel, part number 331-TPSI-001 on our 2012 Toyota 4Runner.

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