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Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty Brake Controller Installation - 2017 Toyota Sequoia

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How to Install the Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty Brake Controller on a 2017 Toyota Sequoia


Hey everybody, how's it going Today we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty trailer brake controller here on a 2017 Toyota Sequoia. So, one of the biggest standout features here of the Redarc brake controller, is what it looks like when it's installed on your vehicle. Now, normally with our traditional brake controller, you're not only gonna be drilling into your dash you're gonna be taking up some of that vital leg room, getting in and out. A lot of people like to refer to those controllers as knee-knockers, and that's our traditional style break controller, it's rather large and clunky. Now with the Redarc, we're not gonna have any of those same issues because most everything is actually gonna be installed behind the dash. The only thing we can see is a small little control knob, and you can see it only sticks out around a half inch or so from your dash here, so you're not taking up much space whatsoever and it looks pretty much factory for you ask me.

And if you do opt for that additional switch panel insert, which we'll go over later in the video, you're gonna get a very factory like finish with no modifying. There's also a control box mounted, sort of, behind the dash here, so it's gonna be out of sight, out of mind, and then we have a few wires connecting everything together. But you don't have to look at that control box, everything is gonna have a nice, sleek finish install look. The only thing we need to worry about is this control knob. And this control knob here is actually a pretty important part of our brake controller 'cause this is gonna give us all of our codes and signals that we know so we know we're using it correctly.

For starters, we're gonna have our gain adjustment. So our gain adjustment can be from zero to 10, and what our gain does, this allows us pretty much to control how much power is being sent to the trailer brakes. So we can adjust this for our smaller trailers to a setting such as one to three would probably be good, and then for our larger trailers, from like eight to 10, so it's really gonna be geared towards your specific setup, you're really gonna be able to dial in this brake controller so you get the best possible braking, you're not gonna have the trailer pushing you but you're not also gonna be dragging it, so it's really gonna be a great mix between both those worlds here. So if you're familiar with electric trailer brake controllers, you know there's two main types, time-delayed and proportional. This brake controller here is proportional, meaning it's gonna apply the brakes, and in a trailer, in an amount proportional to that how we're applying them into the vehicle.

So, if we really slam on the brake pedal in our vehicle here we're gonna get a lot of braking force sent to our trailer as opposed to when we're just moseying around town and we're just coming to a slow stop, we don't wanna lock up the brakes on our trailer there, so just applying them lightly in the vehicle is gonna apply them lightly on the trailer. And then, as with any electric brake controller, we do have a manual override feature, and that's done by just simply clicking this button here. You'll see the LED light turn to red there, that lets us know that we're manually applying the brakes here on our trailer. So something you will notice with this brake controller here, and especially the more you mess with it, is that there's actually a few different color LEDs that'll shine through this little control knob here. Now, each of those has a specific meaning, I'm not gonna go over every single one with you but there's a nice little diagram in your instructions that you can look over, that way you know which each color code represents.

So, in regards to installation difficulty, this is gonna vary a little bit depending on what options your vehicle comes with. If you have the factory tow package you're gonna be able to install this controller without any additional hardwiring or everything, we're gonna have some direct plug and play wiring harness we can use for a nice, easy installation. That's what we're gonna be showing you today, but you can still install this brake controller on this vehicle even if it doesn't have the factory tow package, you're just gonna have to run some wires from the front of the vehicle to the rear, as well as attach some to the battery. So, that's definitely gonna change the installation difficulty a little bit, but most models, thankfully, do have the factory tow package. So, we're gonna go ahead and pull this into the shop and show you exactly how to get it installed. So the first step of our installation, we need to locate the factory brake controller port on our vehicle here, and that's gonna be located inside the driver's side here, underneath the dash panel, to the left side where your emergency brake pedal is located. So now if we just reach up in here, here's our emergency brake pedal, and it's just, sort of, just directly in the corner of this dash here, at the very far end. We're gonna see a white connector there and this is actually for our factory brake controller. So what we need to do is, we need to remove this from the harness that it's attached to. So there's actually some electrical tape there holding it to the existing harness, we wanna get rid of that. So what we're gonna do is, we're gonna take a razor knife, or some sort of razor blade, and we're gonna carefully cut that electrical tape there to free our connector. So there we go, it doesn't give us a ton more room there, but I do have that electrical tape pulled back and here is our connector that we need to use. So next we need to find a place to mount our control box. So what we're gonna do is, we're gonna be removing this kick panel over here on the driver's side, this is very easy to remove. We reach back in here, there's gonna be a little fastener, and we can just unscrew by hand. That's this one there. Once we take that off, then we're gonna actually just pull out here to release some of the clips and that's gonna pry this up, and then we're gonna come back with a trim panel tool and I'm gonna be releasing the clips here. So there's a couple of different locations for these clips, there's gonna be some in here, and there's gonna be some at the bottom. So we're gonna pry open that threshold, this panel's gonna come out entirely, and then we should be able to maneuver this panel out, just like that. So now that we've got the panel out of the way I can get a better look of what's behind it, and there is a ton of different wiring harnesses here, plugs and connectors, so there's not really a lot of room to mount it back here, to this metal surface, like I thought there was gonna be. However, I did still find a good location for us, it's actually gonna be on the backside of this panel. At the very top here, we have a little opening for our wires to run out and it's nice and smooth there, which is gonna give our converter box a nice flat surface to attach to. So I went ahead and just checked for clearance there and I do believe we're gonna have enough room to mount that there, so, that's where I'm gonna choose to mount it. You can use a different location if you want, just keep in mind, we wanna make sure it's attached to a nice stable surface, we don't wanna attach it to some wiring harnesses where it's gonna be flopping around on us. So in order to attach our module box to the back of this panel here, we're gonna be using a double-sided pad here. So this actually doesn't come with your kit, if you have some really heavy duty tape, you can use as well, but basically this is just gonna stick on the back of the module box and it's gonna stick onto this plastic part here. We use these a lot here in our shop, you can find them locally, whatever sort of adhesive you have to attach it to the back of this panel though, that's gonna be fine. What I'm gonna do is, I'm just gonna remove it there from one side, then place it on there, about where I want that box to be located, smooth it out, peel back the other side, and then we'll mount the module box just directly to that. So here is our module box, you can see there's actually two different ones. In your kit, you're only gonna get one depending on if you went with the Liberty, which is this one over here, or the Elite, which is this one over here. So the Elite is black, the Liberty is red. They're gonna install the exact same way, so it doesn't matter which one you have, this installation is gonna work for either, we're gonna be using the red one here. So what we're gonna do is, we're just gonna line it up here with this opening and I'm just going to stick it to the back of that double-sided pad that we just attached, and I'm gonna hold it there for a couple of seconds so it's nice and secure. You can see that's nice and secure, and when this panel is mounted it's not gonna be going anywhere, so that's perfect for this. But now that we have that mounted, we're gonna move on to our control knob. So this is what our control knob looks like here, this is the outer section, there is another section that goes behind the dash. And this just is gonna be mounted up on the dash somewhere where we can see it and we can control it from the driver's seat. So luckily on these Toyota vehicles here, we have tons of these blank switch inserts, and granted some of yours may be filled there depending on what options you have with your vehicle. But chances are, pretty much everyone I've seen, at least has one of these empty. So what we're gonna be doing is, we're gonna be using an additional part, that's sold separately, that's gonna allow us to utilize one of these switch inserts to make for a very clean factory-like installation. And this is what I'm referring to here. So, this is the switch panel insert, and basically we're gonna pop one of these out, we're gonna insert that into there, and this is actually gonna allow us to mount our control knob without any additional drilling. So it's really up to you which one of these you're gonna use, any of them are gonna work. This particular customer wants the one located on the other side of the steering wheel here, which we'll give you a better look at in a minute. So what we're gonna do is, we're just gonna reach behind the dash there, pop out this trim panel, and then we can replace it with this additional part. So here's that one over here on the right side of the steering wheel that this customer wants us to install it in. So we're just gonna reach behind the dash and pop that out. Here's the new one we'll be replacing it with, and here's that control knob we showed you earlier. Now this is the part that gets installed behind the dash here. So, this is actually gonna line up pretty easy, we're gonna have a little alignment pin at the top here, along with our adjustment knob. So this is just gonna fit in there like so, it's designed to fit together, so it's only gonna go one way, and it's gonna fit there nice and smoothly. Now, once we have the two mated it together, we're gonna take our retaining nut there, we're gonna go ahead and tighten that down. So usually you can tighten these enough by hand here, we'll test it in a second, but then we may need to come back with a wrench here and snug it up a little bit more. But in order to test this, basically, you wanna turn this dial all the way counterclockwise, align the zero with the top there, and then press it on. Now, what we're looking for in regards to the tightness of that retention nut, we wanna be able to click the button on here. So I get a nice audible firm click there, and I know that the retaining nut is tight enough. If you can't get it to click, that's when you'll need to come back with a tool and give it another turn or two. We're ready to install it onto the vehicle, but before we do that, we actually wanna attach our data link cable to the back of it 'cause it's gonna be a heck of a lot easier to attach it now than it is when this is behind the dash. So, we're gonna take the 90 end here, and I'm gonna attach the 90 end to the back of our switch there, it's only gonna go in one way. Then we should just hear it click when it's locked into place. And now I'm gonna take the other end of this cable, I'm gonna feed it through our switch insert hole, feed it all the way through, and then we're gonna make sure our switch is right side up, and then it should actually just lock into position once we have it on there. So now we have our data link cable dangling down here, I'm gonna route it up and over the dash, over here to this kick well here, over here where our left foot would be. So I'm gonna use some zip ties and I'm gonna secure this, that way it doesn't fall down and get tangled in our pedals. And once I do that, I'm just gonna leave it dangling in this area here and we'll hook it up to our control box. So here's our data link cable, we got it zip-tied to the bottom of the dash here, over here to where we have our control box mounted. So now the next thing is just to plug in our vehicle-specific harness. So this doesn't come in your kit, so there are two extra things we're gonna recommend, the control panel switch insert, and this vehicle-specific harness. So, the reason we recommend this is, this makes for a direct plug and play installation, no splicing of wires whatsoever, and it's pretty cost effective, so, it's a definite must I recommend here for this installation. This end here is gonna plug in to our control box, that in there, you can see the plugs are similar, and this end here is actually going to plug into that factory tow package port that we revealed earlier. So, what we're gonna do now is, we're just gonna go ahead and plug this in to that factory tow package port, right there where our emergency brake pedal is. So this is only gonna go in one way and you should hear it click when it's locked into place. So now the other end of our harness here, as we said, it's gonna plug into our control box, but you'll notice that there's a white wire that comes from that connector here. So this is an additional ground that we need to hook up here. So, what we're gonna do is, we're gonna utilize a factory ground because, again, the goal of my installation here is no modifying to the vehicle. So, there's actually a factory ground located right here where we want it, so I'm gonna take a 10 millimeter socket, I'm gonna remove that bolt there, and I'm gonna secure my factory ground, or secure my wire to that factory ground. Perfect. So now what I'm gonna do is, I have quite a bit of extra wire here, I definitely don't need that much. So I'm gonna just take some time, I'm gonna clean this up, and zip tie it to these other wires here, just to get everything out of the way so I don't have any trouble when I'm reinstalling my panel. The only thing left to do is to plug in our connections here. Now we'll just go ahead and resecure the panel. Once we have our panel buttoned up, I'm just gonna come up here to my control knob, press it one time, and what I'm looking for is that light, so that blue light there, that's totally normal. So as long as you have that you're good to go to the next step. If you guys don't, you might wanna check some fuses in the factory fuse box under the hood there to make sure that all your towing fuses are in place and in working order. So now what we need to do is, we're gonna be plugging in a trailer and driving around a little bit, so we can calibrate the controller correctly. Now you don't have to have a trailer plugged to do this, it is gonna be quicker though with a trailer. And basically this process is just allowing the controller to learn itself in the vehicle. So while you do have a trailer hooked up you're gonna see this flashing blue and green light, that lets us know that it's in the calibrating process but it hasn't calibrated fully. So, we're gonna go ahead and drive around a little bit, and what we're looking for is, we're gonna look for that flashing green and blue light to stay solid blue. So, once it does stay solid blue, that's gonna let us know that the controller is calibrated correctly. And again, the amount of stops it takes to do this is gonna vary from vehicle to vehicle and where you have the controller mounted. And again, it's quicker when you have a trailer hooked up. Now if we're making a lot of turns, that can also delay the process as well. But somewhere between 10 and 20 stops should do the trick here. After every couple stops here, I'm just gonna look down and see where it's at. And one thing you will notice is, that the closer it is to calibrating, the longer that blue light is gonna stay on for. So if you remember before, it was a very quick flash, now you can start to see it's slowing down a little bit. So now we can see we have that solid blue light which is gonna let us know that our controller is calibrated fully there. And I would say it probably took us about 10 to 15 stops, but again, your experience could vary. So now that we have our controller calibrated, we can go ahead and hook up to our trailer and head off down the road. That's gonna do it today for our look and installation of the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite trailer brake controller here on our 2017 Toyota Sequoia..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Kevin C
Test Fit:
Kevin C
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Ryan G
Video by:
Ryan G
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H

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