Redarc Tow-Pro Classic Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Redarc Tow-Pro Classic Brake Controller on a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Speaker 1: Today on this 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Redarc Tow Pro classic trailer brake controller. Part number 331-EBRHV2, in conjunction with the etrailer ETBC7 kit in order to ease our installation, part number ETBC7.Here's what our Redarc Tow Pro classic looks like installed. As you'll notice, what's great about this brake controller compared to other options on the market, is this will allow us to control our electric trailer brakes without having a big bulky brake controller mounted underneath our dash, which takes up valuable leg room. Especially in vehicles that have limited space in front of the driver's seat. This is also a great solution for vehicles that have knee airbags underneath the dash because you can't mount a brake controller over the airbag. That would cause a problem if the airbag was ever to deploy.Now what sets this brake controller part from others on the market too, is that this is a completely user controlled brake controller.

It's not proportional and that makes it great for those of you who are into off-roading and perhaps have an overlaying camper or need to tow a trailer across rough terrain. With proportional brake controller, when your foot is on the brakes, if you're going over rough terrain the jostling of the G sensor inside of the proportional brake controller could confuse it and cause the brakes to be applied even when you don't need them to be applied heavily. If your foot's just on the brake to control your speed and you hit a rough bump, then it could apply more pressure than what's actually needed for your trailer brakes. With the user control ones, such as this the power level only goes up to where you need it. And unlike other brake controllers, when your foot's on the brake and your vehicle's at a stop, after a while the brakes will shut off and won't have any more power being applied to them.With this user controlled one, you can actually have the brakes on as long as you need them and you can use that as a feature to help keep your trailer in place as you're going down a steep descent, slowly over rocks or on a beach.

For example if you're going across sand, if turn the brakes all the way down you won't have to worry about the trailer acting as an anchor and getting your vehicle stuck. What I really like about this controller, is that it is super easy to use. To adjust the power level of our brakes, we have a knob that starts off at zero and goes all the way up to 10. As you increase the power, you can see the color of the LED will change from a green to a yellow to an orange to a bright red. The brighter red it is, the more power's being applied.As you apply the brakes, they'll slowly apply power to the maximum level where you have it set.

So you don't have to worry about the brakes immediately locking up and causing a jerking sensation. This will smoothly apply the power giving you the maximum power to stop that you need. We also have a manual override where we can apply just the brakes in the trailer by simply pressing in on the switch and it's the same way. It'll slowly bring up the power level to the maximum where you have it set. This is a great solution if your trailer starts to sway behind you and you need to bring it back in line or if you start to jack knife.

You don't want to slow down your vehicle. You only want to slow down the trailer. So just press the button, it'll slow the trailer down and bring it back in line behind you.To begin our install, we find ourselves at the back of our Jeep. Now because our Jeep doesn't have the factory seven way, we're going to be starting back here using the ETBC7 kit. The only requirement that we need to have on our vehicle already is an existing four pole flat trailer connector. In our case, ours is the factory one. Now we need to find a place to mount our seven way connector. In our case, we do not have the factory hitch on our Wrangler. We have a Draw-Tite hitch, which has a tab welded onto it for us to attach our mounting bracket for the seven way. And we'll do that using the provided hardware with the ETBC7 kit. We'll have the screws going through the top, followed by a flat washer. On the bottom one of the star washers and then a nut. Now we'll tighten our hardware. We're using a right angle screwdriver to hold this screw still and then a ratchet with a socket to tighten the nut.Now we'll take our seven way, we'll pass the wires through our hole and we'll secure it to the bracket with the hardware that comes with the kit. Now we'll tighten down our hardware. Now the two wires that are coming off of our seven way connector, that are black and blue. The black's our constant 12 volt power and our blue is our electric trailer brake output. We're going to cut off the existing butt connectors from here. We're going to replace these butt connectors with some 10 to 12 gauge heat shrink butt connectors, which we have available on our website. These will provide a better seal in weather type conditions. So we'll strip off a little insulation from each wire, take our butt connectors, stick them on the wires and we'll crimp them into place.This is a gray duplex wire that comes with our kit. Now duplex means there's two wires inside. We have one in a white sheath and one in a black sheath. We need to separate these two wires. So to do that, take a utility knife, go right in the middle, peel back the insulation. Strip back a little insulation from each wire. We'll match the black wire up to the black wire that we put the butt connector on. This will go to the front of our vehicle for our constant 12 volt power. And the white wire will go to the blue wire for our electric trailer brakes. This purple wire here, this is our reverse output wire for any reverse lights or reverse lock out clinoid on a boat trailer. We're not going to be using this for our particular application here today. So we're just going to cut off the excess and get it out of the way for right now. Making sure we leave some in case we decide to use this function later.Okay now we're going to cut off our four pole connector from our seven way. And we'll cut off the factory four pole from the vehicle. Now we'll strip off insulation from what was on our four pole connector from the seven way. We'll do the same for the factory four pole. We'll take the brown wire from our new seven way. This is our taillight and running light signal. We'll place on a blue 14 to 16 gauge heat shrink butt connector and crimp it down. And we'll add this to the factory four pole taillight and running light wire, which is the white wire with the orange stripe. Now this black wire, that was our factory ground wire. Our white wire off of our seven way with the ring terminal, that is the ground wire from the seven way.We have a lot of excess wire in this. We're going to do, we're going to cut out a section. Strip off the insulation from the white wire. I'm going to tie it in with the factory black wire. With those tied together, we use another one of our 10 to 12 gauge butt connectors, stick it on, crimp it down. Now we'll take our white wire with the ring terminal that we cut off earlier, strip off some insulation, place it back in the butt connector and we'll crimp it down. Now we need to attach our ground wire directly to our vehicle's frame. Do it right about here. To make it easier to secure with the provided self tapping screw, I'm going to drill a small pilot hole first. Now we'll take our 3/8 head self tapping screw, place it through the ring terminal and use our pilot hole and secure it to the frame. That'll give us a nice solid ground.Now we'll use a heat gun, which we have available on our website to shrink down all of our butt connectors. We're using a heat gun over a lighter or torch because this is indirect heat and not direct flame and you won't damage the connectors.now most applications, your brown wire will go to your white wire with an orange stripe or your brown wire, if you have an after market tow package and your green wire will go to your white wire with a green stripe. And your yellow wire will go to your white wire with the yellow stripe. Now this vehicle for some reason with its factory tow package, your green wire, which is our left turn signal will go to your white wire with the yellow stripe and your yellow wire or right turn signal will go to your white wire with a green stripe.And now we'll use a heat gun to shrink down our butt connectors. Now we'll just go ahead and wrap everything up with some electrical tape, so we don't have any colored wires hanging below our vehicle. We went ahead and secured up our wiring behind our bumper beam here. And we routed our gray duplex wire towards the front of the vehicle making sure we avoided any moving parts and sources of heat such as the exhaust. We have it secured to a factory wire loom here, goes over the cross member for our rear suspension. Have it secured to a wire loom again. Continues over the cross member then it goes inside our frame. We used a fish wire to draw it through. Comes out here right behind our front lower control arm. Then we have it zip tied to the insulation around our brake lines where it comes up towards our fire wall, where we can then pull into our engine compartment.We pulled up the wire inside our engine bay now. Now we need to separate our wires from the duplex just like we did in the back. So let's take a utility knife and go down the middle, all the way down the rest of the wire. With our wires now separated, we'll cut off the sheath. We zip tied up our wire to the wiring loom here. We left the white wire off for right now. The black wire we went across the fire wall securing with zip ties to the wiring loom over towards our battery. Now we need to find a spot to mount our two circuit breakers. We'll be using a 40 amp breaker and a 30 amp breaker. The 40 amp will be for our constant 12 volt to the back of the vehicle and the 30 amp breaker will be what we'll be using to power the brake controller itself. We're going to mount ours in this location here on the passenger side next to the battery next to the fender.You won't see the screws being exposed the hood closes around the fender. We'll use the provided self tapping screws to secure. Now we'll measure off how much wire we're going to need to connect to the auxiliary port, which is the silver terminal on our 40 amp breaker. Cut off the excess. We'll strip off the insulation, attach one of our small ring terminals and crimp it into place. Place it over the stud, install the star lock nut. Then snug that down. Now we'll take the other end of our black wire, strip off a little bit of insulation and attach another small ring terminal. Crimp it and we'll place that on the auxiliary terminal of the 30 amp breaker. Tighten that down. All right the black wire from our 30 amp breaker, we routed back against the firewall following the same path as our other black wire, securing it to the wiring harness with our zip ties.Now we need to get that black wire plus our white wire that goes to our electric brake output on our seven way inside of our vehicle through the firewall. Now our Jeep is equipped with an automatic transmission. Right here we have a hole in the firewall where your clutch master cylinder would be if you had a manual transmission. We can pass our wires through there really easily. Take our black wire and we'll poke it through that hole. And we did the same process for our white wire. For video purposes, we went ahead and removed the door. You don't need to, but if you want it's a simple process. We'll be working in this area here.We'll start by removing this panel underneath our steering column. We'll do that just by pulling back on it and it'll come out. Now we'll remove this metal plate here that has two 10 millimeter screws holding it in place. We'll now take the panel, slide up on it, pull it out and set it aside. We'll now remove this panel on the side of our dash by pulling out towards us. We now need to find a place to mount our brake controller switch. We want to make sure we have adequate clearance behind it, so it's not going to interfere with anything and we'll still be able to plug in our cable to it. So right in this area here on our dash, right above our driver side dash speaker is a great spot. So that'll be right in this area here above our speaker grill and below our AC vent. This is a template that we'll be using for drilling our holes. We found this in the instructions, it's an exact size match. We'll have it on a piece of tape and we'll tape it to our dash exactly where we want it to make sure everything lines up where we need it to be.Now we need to drill two holes through our template, a small one and a large one. The small one is a three and a half millimeter or if you don't have millimeter drill bits, the closest fractional inch equivalent to that is 5/32. The larger one's 10 millimeter and the fractional inch conversion is that 25/64 of an inch. I'll start with our small one first. Get it nice and centered and drill through our template. We'll use the small drill bit again to make a pilot hole through the larger hole. And we'll switch out to our larger one now. With the holes made, we can remove our template.Now we'll take our sticker, this acts as a trim piece and gives us the numbers that we need to see where our display's set at. Peel off the backing and we'll be very careful when we put this on to make sure we center over both of our holes. Now we'll take our switch and we'll insert it through the hole. We'll take our nut, we'll push it into the hole. And we'll rotate it until it secures our switch into place. Now we'll take a 12 millimeter socket and tighten down the nut to our switch. This will draw it in nice and tight to our dash. Now we'll turn our switch all the way over to the left to make sure it's resting on zero. We'll take our knob, line it up with the zero and push it onto the switch.Now we'll take our cable and we'll plug it into the back side of the switch. It only goes in one way. So just line it up and push it into place. Okay this is the heart of our brake controller itself. This is actual unit which will power our brakes. We need to begin making our wiring connections to it. So we'll take our wiring plug here, match it up. It only goes in one way. It'll click in. Then we have two set screws, one on each side to secure into place. I'll just use a flathead screwdriver on those. Now we're going to measure off how much of our white and black wire we're going to need. Right about here will be plenty. Strip off some insulation from both ends.Our black wire we will attach the terminal marked battery positive. That's the one over here to the far left. It'll go through this large hole right here. We'll simply just push it into place. And it'll make our connection. Now we'll do our white wire. And this will go to the one labeled brakes. That's the one next to the one furthest from the right. Now we'll take a small segment of our white wire about eight or nine inches. We'll strip of insulation from both ends. On one end we'll place one of our large diameter ring terminals that comes with our ETBC7 kit and we'll crimp it down. The other end will go to the side that says battery negative. This is also our ground. We'll attach our ground wire directly to a chassis ground on our vehicle. This wire does go directly to our battery, so it's the same principle.We'll remove this 10 millimeter nut here and use our factory ground point. We'll slide the ring terminal over that stud and install our nut. And we'll tighten the nut back down. Here at our brake light switch, we need to find our cold side wire. What that means is that wire only has power going through it when the brake pedal is depressed. So I'm using a test light right now and I'll step on the brake pedal. So we found that wire, in this particular case it is a white wire with a brown stripe. Now we'll take our quick connect here that comes with our kit. We'll slide it over our brake light switch wire. We'll take a small section of 16 gauge wire. This is sold on our website as part number 16-1-1 by the foot. You'll need about two feet so order a quantity of two if you need to. We'll slide that into the other end of our quick connector and then we'll squeeze the tab down here with a pair of pliers.Once it's fully seated, we can now close the cover up over the wires. It'll click into place. Now we'll cut off the excess of that black wire and we'll strip back some insulation. And we'll insert that into the terminal label brake light. It's the one to the far right. Coincidentally, it's the last terminal we have left. Pull back make sure it's locked in place. Now we need to securely mount our box to a surface where it won't move around. I'll use this top flange of it right here and two self tapping screws to secure to this brace for our dashboard. With those two screws in place, we're now securely mounted. Now we'll take our right angle plug that goes on the cable to our switch and we'll plug it into the controller.Okay now we find ourselves back underneath the hood. With all of our connections made inside. We can now hook up our circuit breakers to our battery terminal. We'll be using this 10 millimeter nut here. Now it doesn't matter which one we hook up first, they're both going to go to the same place. So we'll just strip of the insulation from one end of our wire. Place one of our small ring terminals on, crimp it down. Place that over one of the copper colored studs, put our nut on. We'll measure off how much we're going to need. Strip off some insulation. Take one of our large ring terminals, stick it on the wire, crimp it down. Take what's left of our black wire, strip back the insulation from one end, place on a small terminal, crimp it down. That'll go to our other circuit breaker. Place our nut on. Strip off the insulation of the other end. Place on our final large ring terminal, crimp it. Now remove our 10 millimeter nut.And we'll place our ring terminals over the stud. And reinstall the nut. Now we'll reinstall all of our panels. Okay we'll go ahead and hook up to our trailer and test it out, make sure it's working. The green solid light means that we have a proper connection and it's detecting our brakes properly. And that completes our look at and installation of the Redarc Tow Pro classic trailer brake controller, part number 331-EBRHV2 on this 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Brent H

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