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MORryde Tandem Axle Trailer Suspension Upgrade Kit Installation - 2009 Keystone Montana Mountaineer

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How to Install the MORryde Tandem Axle Trailer Suspension Upgrade Kit on a 2009 Keystone Montana Mo

Hey guys, Kevin here with etrailer. And today we're gonna be showing you how to install the MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit here on our 2009 Keystone Montana Mountaineer Fifth Wheel trailer. So with our wheels off, you can get a better look at our shackle straps and our wet bolts. As you can see, I already have them greased up. And then what that's gonna help do is have our shackle straps roll back and forth. And our bolts, especially over on the front in the rear of our hangers here.

What that does is help moves your suspension so that it bounces with the bumps in the road that you experience and keeps it down here instead of traveling through your trailer and then up into your truck. The shackle straps that come with your MORryde kit are gonna be about three times as thick as your standard shackle straps. And what that does is offer a whole lot more rigidity and help prevent any shock rising up into your trailer frame. And what that does is give you just an overall more comfortable and smoother ride. When determining the correct size shackle strap kit for your trailer, what you're gonna wanna do is take your tape measure and you're gonna measure from the center of the bolt to the center of the bolt on the other side of your shackle strap.

And with this one, you can see that we're right at 3-1/8. So what you would do is take that measurement right there and then you can go onto our site and find the corresponding kit that's going to fit your trailer. You can easily lube them up with these grease fittings and that's gonna help really move your suspension as you're hitting those bumps. And as it moves back and forth, that negates all that bounce and sway that you're gonna have and keeps it lower to the ground so that it's not coming up through the trailer and then you're feeling it in your truck. Now that we've gone over some of the features of this equalizer, let's go ahead and show you how we installed it today.

So to begin our installation, we're gonna have to remove our wheels. And while we still have our trailer down on the ground, this is the perfect time to take off your lug nuts 'cause that way you're not having to fight the wheels sliding around on you as you're trying to take them off. So that's what we're gonna do right now. And now that we have our lug nuts off, we can go ahead and lift our trailer so that way our axles can hang freely. So now with our wheels off and our trailer lifted up, I've gone ahead and I put some jacks under the axles 'cause that's gonna help support it.

'Cause the second that we take our bolts out of our leaf springs, our axles are gonna collapse to the ground. So with those in place, we can now go ahead and start taking off our bolts. I'm gonna start with our outside bolts here, that way I can have it held in place by the actual equalizer bolt in this hanger. And I don't have it dropping down on me as I'm trying to get these off or have it shifting side to side at all. Go ahead and do this side now. All right. Now we can go ahead. And if you can just work it out by hand, if not, you can take a punch and hammer it out. We're loose enough right now that we can just pull it out and now I'm gonna go ahead. I'm gonna use my knee to just keep this from falling down at all. We'll go ahead and take out our last bolt. So this one ended up being pretty rusted in there. So I took some penetrating oil and I sprayed it on both sides. And I've been hitting here for a little bit and got it loose enough now. We can go ahead and use our punch. We're gonna put that in. And actually, like I said before, I'm gonna hold this up in my knee trying to keep it straight and hammer this the rest of the way out. And sometimes just wiggling it back and forth. Maybe spraying a little bit more oil on it just to get it out. There we go. This is already a upgraded equalizer here that's already on our trailer today 'cause just the size and it's already got these rubber bumpers in it and that's what really helps with any of that shock. Anytime you're going over potholes or bumps or anything like that, that's what keeps your wheels steady and keeps your trailer from bouncing up and down. Now, as you can see on this one, those bumpers are pretty thin whereas on ours with the MORryde here, it's gonna be a lot bigger, way fatter in there and it's gonna get it a whole lot more to keep it bounced back anytime you run over a big bump. Typically when you're replacing just the equalizer, you can't just go ahead and reuse the shackle straps but we're also gonna be replacing those for our customer today 'cause he is also switching over to wet bolts. That way he can properly lube up his entire suspension system. So as you can see, we have our shackle straps and our wet bolts. And just to give you an idea of the difference in it, our new shackle straps are about three times as thick as our old ones. And that's really just gonna help give you a longer lasting lifespan on them. They're not gonna bend like these ones could under some tight heavy bumps. They're not going to fight you as much. And it's just gonna overall give you a much sturdier suspension so that you're not feeling those bumps riding throughout the trailer. It'll just stop right here. When you look at the wet bolts too, just the difference in that. These are our old bolts that ran through our equalizers and our shackle straps before. You weren't able to lube these, these just had a little nylon bushing on it. And as you can see from this one that I knocked out on the other side, it's already fallen apart. So you just had metal on metal going this whole way and with no lubrication there, it's just gonna sit there and rust. It's not gonna wanna properly slide back and forth and it's just gonna give you a much bumpier ride. Whereas with these wet bolts, there's a little spot that'll come out that you can have your grease actually come out. It's gonna go over these bronze bushings and that's gonna really just help it slide and roll back and forth to absorb all that road shock. And with these little grease or fittings on the front, it makes it super, super easy to grease up. So overall, this is just gonna give you a much much smooth ride versus your old nylon bushing and standard bolt. So the wet bolt kit that we have is also gonna come with bronze bushings on all of our wet bolts, but because our equalizer already has one for each of our shackle straps and then also one for the center. we aren't gonna need that. We'll just take that right off of our wet bolts. And we can go ahead and place our equalizer up on our hanger and we'll slide our wet bolt through. Now, one thing about these bolts actually is if you look real close, there's these teeth on it. That's what's gonna bite into your hangers and prevent this from actually moving around. So once you hit those teeth, it's gonna sit there and fight you. So what you can do is take a socket and your hammer and we're gonna use the square side of it where you'd actually insert your wrench. We're gonna place that over the fitting here making sure that we aren't hitting our grease zerk and we're just gonna hammer this in place. And once we have our bolt fully up against the hanger, we can go ahead and put on our nut. Now I'm just gonna do it hand tight for now. We'll go ahead and come back and torque down all of our bolts at the same time later on. Now we can play around with the height of our actual axles here. So this is gonna involve you having to move your jack up or down just to get your shackle straps to actually fit correctly. So right now it's looking like I'm gonna need to just boost my axle up a bit. I don't really wanna start putting this in and have it crooked 'cause then it's gonna give me a hard time on the other side. I wanna just get my axles exactly where they need to be and then try and slide it through. So I'm gonna get under here real quick. So just like I said earlier, we're gonna have to knock out our nylon bushings. There's one in each side of our leaf spring and I'm just gonna use a punch and I'm gonna sit there and I'm gonna work around it. Typically, if you can get under one edge of it, then you can just push the whole thing right out. Just like that and pop it right out. Now we're gonna have to put in our new bushings. An easy way to do that is also to just push that in there. And if you really need to, you can go ahead and grease it and we can just take our flathead bolt that we already had on there. Slide that on and hammer it in place. And then push our bolt back out. It's really important that we don't hit the actual bushing itself 'cause then you can wrinkle up the edge of it and then it's not gonna wanna accept the new wet bolt through it. So now with that in place, you can go ahead and start sizing up where we need to be. And then I wanna lift the axle just a bit higher, push it through. When we're putting our shackle strap on, we're gonna make sure we have our grease zerk fitting facing outwards, that way it's real easy to lube up. We don't wanna have to try and fight and get under here to try and put it on. And then we'll take our other shackle strap, push that in place and take our flange nuts and tighten those down. Just hand tight for now. Like I said, we'll come back at the end and torque down each of these to the specifications listed in the manual. But we don't wanna do it right now and then have this too tight and then fight us while we're trying to get the other bolts in place. But now we can go ahead. We're gonna do the same thing that we did right here over on the other side here. So you'll also notice that I'm using this breaker bar on the front and actually undoing these bolts with my drill on the inside. And that's because we don't wanna have our head of our bolt moving. We only want that nut moving. 'Cause if we have the head of the bolt move, it's actually going to use these teeth and grind out that hole. And then when we put our new one in, it's just not gonna have anything to bite onto 'cause we ground it out. So just a little tech tip there to help you so that you don't end up making a mistake and have to replace your hanger. Just a bit more. There we go. So now we're gonna go ahead and we'll knock this bolt out with our hammer. Definitely be aware of your surroundings. I've got a gas line right here so I have to be real careful. So make sure you do the same if you're doing this on your trailer. All right. Now that we got our bolt out. I'm gonna drop down our axle just enough so that I can get our eyelet down and get that old nylon bushing out. So now I got that nylon bushing out, I can go ahead and start hammering in my brass one. Just like before, we're gonna keep reusing our old bolts just to get it in place. And now we can raise our axle back up, get it back in line with our hanger and put it in our wet bolt. Get perfectly in line. And we have to push against the axle just 'cause shackle straps are pushing against the hanger here. There we go. And now with that in place, I'm gonna do the same trick we did before with our socket. We're gonna place that on here and hammer it down. So get those teeth bite it into our hanger. All right. Now at that fully seated, we can go ahead and put on our flange nut and we'll do the same thing that we did right here over on our front hanger. So now that we have all of our wet bolts in and our equalizers up, we're gonna go ahead and torque down all of our bolts, all down to the specifications that are listed inside of your manual. And if you saw that right there, that just moved a bit. So I'm gonna go ahead and put a socket back up on this to hold it in place. This one back here gave me a little bit of trouble when I was taking that bolt out. It was loose. So I think whoever messed with this in the past ground out where those teeth would actually set 'cause normally that wouldn't really move once those teeth are in place. All right. That little click noise that you just heard is us hitting our torque setting. So now I'm gonna move on to the next bolt. So now I'm going ahead and going through each of our bolts and greasing them up. It's hard to see from where we're angled at on the camera, but I've got some grease popping out on the other side on our shackle strap right over here. And so I know it's full. I'm gonna switch over to the next one. As you can see, it's starting to come out on the other side there. So I know it's fully lubing up that wet bolt. When I had that bolt out, you could see that hole that was right in the center of it. It's actually going through this grease zerk coming out of that hole and it's gonna spin around on that wet bolt and that bronze bushing and then just make this slide a whole lot easier. And that's what's really gonna help you out when you're riding over these bumps, when this can easily transition and work out that shock. So now we're gonna go ahead. We'll do this to each one of our bolts and then we can go to the other side and install our equalizer and our shackle bolts and straps. Well, I think that about does of today's installation of the MORryde Suspension Upgrade Kit here on our 2009 Keystone Montana Mountaineer Fifth Wheel trailer. My name's Kevin. Thanks for watching..

Info for this part was:

Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Kevin C
Test Fit:
Kevin C

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