MagnaFlow Ceramic Catalytic Converter Installation - 2010 Nissan Altima

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How to Install the MagnaFlow Ceramic Catalytic Converter on a 2010 Nissan Altima

Speaker 1: Today on this 2010 Nissan Altima, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install a Magnaflow ceramic catalytic converter, part number MF49504. Now the reason you're shopping around for replacement catalytic converter for your vehicle is, you either have a couple different things going on.The converter itself could be clogged. You could be having a check engine light because it's not as efficient as it used to be anymore and you need to replace it so you can pass emissions. Or, like in our case, the converter assembly, which has the flex pipe built into it, has developed a leak and we have excessive exhaust noise which is why we're replacing our converter assembly today. Now that you've heard it before with the original catalytic converter in place with the broken flex pipe and the new replacement catalytic converter in, you'll notice how much quieter it is.Here's what our converter looks like installed. As you'll notice, it's a direct fit, one piece replacement for our catalytic converter assembly on our vehicle.

It goes all the way from our factory exhaust manifold and primary catalytic converter. It includes our flex pipe. It comes back, has our secondary catalytic converter and then the flange where it goes to our exhaust resonator on our factory exhaust system. Now, not only is this designed to be a direct replacement for a damaged or worn out factory exhaust component, but the high flow ceramic catalytic converter can even add a little bit of performance to your vehicle.Now when we compare this to the factory converter, right here underneath our sub frame, you can see how large of a diameter of the pipe that we have and this is because it's inaudible 00:02:00 bent. Here on the factory piece where it's bent to go underneath the sub frame, you can see how it's crushed down.

This is going to reduce airflow and it can reduce performance. Another great thing about this converter assembly is that the converter itself is EPA approved and compliant in 49 states and Canada. So you don't have to worry about failing emissions or your safety inspections for having a missing converter or one that won't pass a smog test. You're good to go in every state in the United States, except for California.Now while our converter itself is ceramic material on the inside, all of our piping is stainless steel. What this is going to allow us to have is exhaust piping that's going to last a very long time.

It won't rust out anywhere near as fast as how the factory one did. To begin our install, we're going to find the catalytic converter on our vehicle. In this case, replacing the secondary catalytic converter and not the primary. So underneath the vehicle, basically right below where our front passenger and driver seat are, this is our secondary catalytic converter. In order to get the old converter out of the vehicle, we're going to remove this brace right here that's underneath it, just so we have a little bit more room.It's held in place with four 13 millimeter bolts.

Notice there is an arrow on it that faces towards the front of the car, so just keep that in mind. Now in our converter assembly, we do have an oxygen sensor. We need to unplug this before we lower it. So we'll start by first getting the wire out of this clip. We'll use a flathead screwdriver to pry it open as we get the wires out. A little Christmas tree fastener here that holds the plug in place. If we use a flathead screwdriver we can pop it off of that and pull it down where we can see a tab right here that we need to press on to unplug it. As we press down on it. We've got to inaudible 00:04:12 I'm going to use my finger, then I can pull the plug to separate it.Now at the front of our converter assembly, we'll have three 17 millimeter bolts where it bolts to our factory exhaust manifold and primary converter assembly. When you remove these, it's always a good idea to use a little bit of spray lubricant on the threads to help it come out. We've already had this soaking overnight before. So they should come out fairly easily for us. Now at the back side of our converter assembly, we have two nuts on studs that hold it to our exhaust resignator assembly. Now, these nuts are going to get very rusty underneath your vehicle because they are exposed to the most moisture and salt corrosion from the roads.Now, you can try using penetrating oil, but more than likely you're going to need the blue tipped wrench, also known as a torch, to heat these up in order to get them off. You can use a map gas torch like this which is readily available at most hardware stores. So we're going to heat these up until they're red hot. Now that we got it hot enough, I can actually move it by hand. Now that we have one of our nuts off, we'll do the same for the other location. Now, right at our sub frame, we have an exhaust hanger that has two 13 millimeter bolts. We need to remove these.With those bolts removed, we can now swing it down from the front and then pull it off on the studs on the back and remove it from the vehicle. Now we need to take our oxygen sensor out of our old catalytic converter assembly and swap it over to our new one. now if you don't have an oxygen sensor socket, you can use a 22 millimeter wrench and you can easily set it free. Then you can unscrew it by hand. We'll now transfer the oxygen sensor to the new assembly in the same location. We'll snug it down nice and tight. Now in some instances, your car may be equipped with another oxygen sensor that's past the catalytic converter, the secondary converter.In our case, our vehicle doesn't have that, so we need to plug it. We're using a inaudible 00:06:48 for this. You can get one of these at an auto parts store. So we'll just screw that in there and we'll snug it down. Now we'll transfer our exhaust hanger from the old converter assembly to the new one. This will simply just pull off of there and we'll slide it on here. Now that we have everything off of our converter that we need, here's a tip for you. The precious metals inside the converter themselves are actually worth quite a bit of money. So if you we're to take this to a scrap yard, you could actually recoup the cost of purchasing a new one.Now we'll take off the old gasket form our muffler and replace it with the new one that comes with our converter. We'll now take our donut gasket and place it over the pipe on the flange where it goes to our engine. So we'll start by hanging it on the studs for our muffler. Now we'll bolt our hanger back to our sub frame. Now we'll put nuts over the studs by our muffler. We opted to get new nuts from the dealership. Let's get these started. Now we'll get our flange mated to our factory exhaust manifold and our converter assembly and reinstall the existing bolts since they came out very easily. Now that we have all of our hardware started, we can tighten it down.Now plug out oxygen sensor back into the factory wiring harness and clip it back to the vehicle. Okay. Now we'll reinstall our brace. Okay now that we have everything back in place, we went ahead and started the engine up and we're going to check for any exhaust leaks. So to do that, we'll just stick our hand around the flange and feel for any hot air escaping. So we'll do this at the rear flange and at the front flange. If we don't feel any hot air escaping, we know we don't have any leaks. That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Magnaflow ceramic catalytic converter, part number MF49504 on this 2010 Nissan Altima.

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Test Fit:
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