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LaSalle Bristol hermaHeat RV Holding Tank or Step Heater Pad Install - 2020 Taxa Mantis Travel Trail

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How to Install the LaSalle Bristol hermaHeat RV Holding Tank or Step Heater Pad on a 2020 Taxa Mant


Hey everyone, Shane here with etrailer.com. Today I've got the 2020 Mantis travel trailer. I'm going to walk through how to install the LaSalle Bristol RV camper tank heaters.What would be the purpose of using tank heaters Well, the main purpose is to keep your tanks warm enough so that the water doesn't freeze, so that you can empty them or add water in when you need to. For instance, if you're camping in cold weather conditions, what happens if you don't have the tank heaters, if it's open on the bottom and your camper is not set up for cold weather conditions, or it doesn't have a winter package on it, your tanks are open to the weather. You get a lot of wind that may blow under there. If it's freezing, those tanks are going to freeze, because they're made out of plastic.

Adding these on keeps the water from freezing inside that tank, so if you need to empty your black water tank, or you need to add water into your freshwater tank, you're able to do that.This is what our pads will look like when it's installed, it's going to be constructed out of foam material. It's going to be about 3mm thick and it sticks right to the bottom of your tank. It's going to work with tanks from 29 gallons up to 40 gallons. It's going to be 18-1/4" long by 12" wide. So it works well for even some of your bigger tanks.Now, we have one installed on our black water tank, as well as our fresh water tank.

The wires, as far as wiring it, we have a power wire and a ground wire, so they're pretty simple to install. Now, the pads can be wired directly to the battery. They're going to have an internal thermostat that when the temperature drops below 45 degrees, the pad will kick on. Once it reaches 67 degrees, it's going to kick back off. We actually wired two of them together into a switch, which can also be done.

If you're going to wire it to a switch, you want to make sure your switch can handle the amperage of both pads.Couple of things to keep in mind, if you're going to hook it up, how we did here with the switch, you're going to need spade connectors. You're going to need butt connectors, a fuse holder, and also the switch. Each of those can be found here at etrailer. If you we're just hooking directly from one pad up to the battery, you're just going to need a fuse holder that is able to handle the amperage.Now, these pads are going to draw about 4.8 amps, so again, as I mentioned, make sure your switch can handle the two pads if you have them connected together, and also your fuse holder.Now the pads don't necessarily have to be installed on your tanks. Or if you install them on your tanks, you can get extras and a lot of people are installing them on their steps, so in the colder months, if you're out camping, your steps aren't frozen when you can try to walk outside, you fall down and hurt yourself.

Keep in mind that the pads are 12 inches wide. A typical step is only going to be eight inches wide. So you're going to have some extra. With the wires running into it I'm going to recommend not trimming them down. The one sticky side of it though, allows you to kind of form that to the bottom of the step, so you can kind of clean up the install look.To start our installation, you needed to locate the spout coming out of your tank. We need to take some rubbing alcohol, make sure you're not using any type of other solvents, and we're going to wipe down the tank where we're going to be placing our heating pads. Now our customer already has one, this is our black water tank. A customer already has one on their freshwater tank, and what we're going to be doing is we're going to be adding a second one to this thing and then tying the both of them to a switch on the wall inside that we'll be installing in a little bit. We'll rub this down with some alcohol, clean off any dirt, or anything like that. Let this dry for a second.Our heater pad is going to have some Brown paper on it. We're going to peel that off, and we're going to take our pad, and we're going to stick it close to where our drain is. Just start here. We're going to press it into place.From here what I need to do, is you have your power wire, you have your ground. I need to go over to my other heater, that's on my other tank. I'm going to go ahead and pull those wires loose, so I can determine where they're routing and get everything tied together.On your tank heater, you're going to have a power and ground wire. Our customer, the one that they already installed had their power and ground running directly up to the battery, which is straight above their fresh water tank, so what I did is I disconnected it, cut the fuse holder off, cut the ring terminal off, and what they we're using was jacketed wire. You can find this by the foot here at etrailer. It's jacketed, it's got a nice coating on it, so it'll protect it under here, and it's going to have two wires in it, black and white. Since we're installing a switch, what we need to do, or what I did, was my red wire coming from one panel, my red wire coming from the other panel. I took the jacketed wire that they had connected and I cut it to length. I attached my red wire from one panel, red wire from the other, together on one end. I used a heat shrink butt connector. My jacketed wire, my black wire goes into it. That's going to be my power source for my pads.From here, what I did is I took my jacketed wire with my black and white, that connected in here. I ran it through the wire loom clamps that are already here, over to where the front door is and where I'm going to be installing the switch. The white wire coming off from the each panel. All I did was connected them together and grounded them right here to the body ground, or the frame ground. There's already two factory grounds here, so your camper might not be set up like this, as long as you have a clean spot on your frame, you can ground your wires there.My black wire that I have running over to where I'm going to be running my switch. On my switch, there's going to be three connections we need to make. One is going to be a ground, that's for the white. One is going to be our load wire, which is going to be this black one that's going to our two panels. The extra white wire, which was initially the ground wire for our first panel is actually going to be my extension for my power coming from my switch. This is not long enough to get up here to my battery, so what I'm going to do, is I have it ran up inside by the door where I'm going to be putting a switch, the extra that I'm going to cut off. I'm going to extend this up and we'll connect it and fuse it right to the battery.My front door is right here. There's a cabinet that sits right here where I'm going to be mounting the switch. My jacketed wire, I ran it right up into a factory hole where there are some other things that are mounted. They already have a hole there. Now we can go up, we can cut our hole for our switch, get our three wires connected to the back of the switch, and then hook up to our battery.This is the side of my cabinet, right inside the front door. This is my jacketed wire that I pulled up. I'm going to be putting my switch right here. We're going to be using this switch here, for now. We're going to end up putting a larger panel in here that has a couple of other switches on it. But for now, we're going to put this one. What I want to do is I need to center this in a location where, when we cut out the hole for the other panel, it will cover that hole we'll be able to cut out of that. I'm centering it right with this.How I did this was, you don't necessarily have to, this was just how I like to do it. Since I want it centered with this, you can see I have painters tape, lined it up top and bottom, and I took a piece of cardboard. I took my switch and cut it to fit around that piece of cardboard, and I'm going to use that cardboard as my template, so I can cut out this hole.Now, because this cabinet is pretty nice, brand new camper. We don't want to chip this as much as we can, so I'm going to start with a pilot hole in the center. I'll gradually go up to a bigger one, and then I'm going to take a saw and I'm going to cut that square out. I'm going to make sure, before you do anything, you check back behind it to make sure there's nothing back there that you're going to damage.Once I drilled my hole in the center, I went ahead and outlined this mark here, and we'll go ahead and peel this off, and take a saw. And we'll cut out that square.Once you have your whole cut, go ahead and test fit your switch. I would not suggest pushing it all the way in. It's easier to run your wire through and wire the back of the switch and then push it in. Just test fit it. Do any trimming you need to do to make sure it's going to go in. The switch that we're using is by JR products. It's just an on and off lit switch. The nice thing about it being lit with our tanks is we know when that's lit up that our heating pads are on.Jacketed wire, we'll go ahead and run that through the hole like that. Then of course, as I mentioned, has a black and white wire in it. The black wire is the wire that's going to my two pads that are connected. That's going to be the load, and then power, which we're going to use the extra white wire that we're going to cut off here, extend the white wire that we have on the other end up to our battery and then fuse it. Then from this one, we'll just take a little bit of extra wire, and there's a panel right here, the ground panel, right on the backside of this cabinet or on the inside of it. We're just going to run this directly over to that grounding spot there.I'll cut that off, I need to hold on to that guy. Go ahead and split this. I have a piece of single ground or single white wire. This is going to be my ground wire coming from my switch. Your spade connectors do not come with your kit, so you'll have to pick some of those up. Go ahead, ground wire and you just follow the instructions on the box. Go ahead and feed this through here, and then I can trim it down.Then we'll strip back our two wires that are together in the jacket, load wire, which is going to our two panels or two heaters. We'll add on a spade connector, on each one of those wires. Load is going to be the bottom, power is going to be the middle one. There. Now, I'll go inside, hook up my ground wire to my panel, and then we'll take our extra jacketed wire, we'll pull the white wire out of it and extended it up to our battery and our fuse holder.This is the ground panel I was talking about, underneath the cabinet. I just ran my ground to an empty slot here from my switch. Now, from here, we can go over and extend our power wire that's going up to our battery.We're going to take our extra length of wire that we cut off from where we we're hooking up our switch, strip back one end, add it on the heat shrink butt connector. Our white wire that's coming from our switch is going to be powered. We're going to strip back this end. We're going to take the extra length of wire that we had the butt connector on, we're going to add it onto that wire. We'll take the other end, I'm going to feed it right up through this factory hole. My battery is actually sit right here. I'm going to feed this up here, like that. We'll get connected to our battery, make sure everything's working. I'll come back, use a heat source, we'll shrink these down and we'll clean up all of our wiring.A couple things to keep in mind. If you're running two tank heaters together to one switch. One, you've got to make sure that the switch amperage can handle the amperage coming out of the two panels. Two, your fuse holder, fuse holder has to be able to handle the amperage as well. Each panel is 4.8 amps. This fuse holder, it's an ATC/ATO fuse holder. It'll hold 20 to 25 amps. I'm going to be using this one and installing a 25 amp fuse in it. The way we put it in, it's going to come like this. It does not come with a fuse. We're going to cut it in half, one end we're adding a butt connector, adding it to the white wire that we fed up. The other end, we're putting a ring terminal on, then connect it to the positive side of the battery.Our wire from underneath came up right here behind this hose. This hole in this panel feeds right over to the batteries. I fed it up, passed it over, and we are right here. This is my wire. We'll go ahead and strip this back. We'll add on our butt connector. We'll take our fuse holder, as I mentioned, cut it in half, we're going to strip back both ends. We'll add a ring terminal, which also does not come with the kit, onto one end. The other end, we'll add it into our butt connector.We'll make the connection to our battery at our fuse, and then we'll test everything out.Go ahead and test out our switch. Now we're getting power to our switch. We're getting power to our switch, we're getting power to our panels. We're going to let this go for a second. We'll feel the pads and make sure they're heating up.We're got a little heat gun here. Temperature gauge, we're going to just point at the tank. It's 67 degrees. I'll point it at the pad. 70 degrees, so you know, our pads are working and then the longer they sit, the more it's going to heat up the inside of this tank and keep everything from freezing.Once you've got everything connected, you can clean up all your wires and you're ready to go. That's going to do it for a look at an installation on a LaSalle Bristol RV camper tank heaters, on a 2020 Mantis travel trailer..


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee John S
Video by:
John S

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