Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Installation - 2014 Heartland RV Bighorn Fifth Wheel

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How to Install the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit on a 2014 Heartland RV Bighorn Fifth Wheel

Hi there Bighorn owners. Today on your 2014 Heartland Bighorn, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Kodiak's Disc Brake Conversion kit. And this is what our brakes look like when they're installed. This is a replacement of your existing drum brake assembly. And it's going to provide you with the disc rotor as well as new hubs. They're going to be the same pattern that our trailer had before, which is 8 on 6.5, and we're going to have 9/16" studs, just like our old ones.

And maintain the same pattern here, so our wheels are easily going to bolt right back up. And the bearings that this uses inside of here have the same I.D, so they're going to slide right over the hub.Now the bearings don't come included with it, but you can get those here at etrailer.com. Also, with your kit, you're going to receive your caliper bracket and the caliper, which you install behind the rotor. You put the caliper bracket on first and then our caliper here has our pads that do come included and they're already prepacked on there for you. So you just got to slide that caliper on there and bolt it down.What this is going to do for you is it's going to give you a much more enjoyable braking experience than what your previous electric drum brakes had.

Because with disc brakes, we're going to have a lot more surface area on our pad to grab on the rotor, which is going to reduce our stopping distance. We're also going to have a much higher pressure because we're going to be using a 16,000 PSI brake actuator to work with this system. And since it's hydraulic, it's going to be a little bit more smooth than what your typical electric brakes are cause the electrical ones, it's just the magnet applies and then it grabs on the shoe, it hits the one side of the drum then it presses the pad to the other side. It's kind of abrupt and then it wants to slow down that way.With these, it kind of goes on a little bit more naturally. It has an internal proportioning valve inside of our actuator that gives you a more natural feeling.

So it's almost like you're not even hauling a trailer when you have these installed, they perform much better than the drum brakes. So you really don't feel the weight like you did before and the smooth action is just going to be so seamless.Now in this video, we're going to show you how to install your rotor and hub assembly here, as well as how to pack your bearings and install the seal in the back. So don't forget to pick up your bearings and seals, but then again, to get this whole thing working, you're going to need your hydraulic lines and actuator, which you can see in another video, but we are going to show you how to bleed the brakes so that once you've got those installed, you'll be ready to go.We'll begin our installation by removing the wheels. To do this, you are going to want to lift your trailer up. I recommend using your floor jack lifting up by the frame.

And you need to have it high enough up that your wheels are going to be off the ground. It's easiest to do this by having four jack stands placed around the vehicle to get the whole thing about the ground. Now, due to the tight clearances between the lug nut and the rim here, you may not be able to fit an impact socket in there. We weren't able to fit one in there, so we're using a chrome socket. So before I lifted it up, I did use a breaker bar to break each one of these loose. So, that way we're not going to be putting any stress on the chrome socket when we take it off here. So we're just going to zip them the rest of the way off. Once they're all loose, sometimes you got to give it a little bit of a tap to break it loose from the hub, and we'll just take it off and set it aside.Now we can start removing our hub. The cap here on the end just taps off, so we're going to use a rubber mallet. We're just kind of hitting away while pulling away slightly and it'll just come right off of there. Behind that, you'll have your nut and there is a locking tab that's going to be locked. You'll see there's two little tabs. One of them you need to bend down through. It's going to take our screwdriver. We'll get in behind the tab, just kind of bend it over and then just kind of hit it with a screwdriver to knock that flat.Now we can take the nut off. I was going to use a pair of channel locks. It's not tight on there and just work it off. I'm using the channel locks more just to keep myself clean here, so I don't have to touch any of the nasty grease. Down below the hub, I did set down a napkin down there or a cloth that I can set all these components on cause they are going to be pretty full of grease. Once the nuts off, we can grab our screwdriver, I like to stick it kind of right here in the notch. And then if we pull out on our hubs just a little bit, the outer bearing will come off of there. It'll slide onto our screwdriver and we can just set it down here on our cloth.Now our entire hub will slide off of there and we can just set it aside. We're going to be replacing all the grease. So we're just going to get all that old grease off of there. This is just the common red wheel bearing grease that you see, which we do sell here. We are going to be upgrading it with a marine grease to ensure that no moisture can get in here and cause any issues. In most cases you don't need the marine grease, but depending on where you use your motor home often. If you're in a lot of areas where you're going to be down in the water, where there's potential that you can get a little bit in there, it's going to be better for it. We noticed this guy's kind of from the North where there's a lot of snow. So there's potential for meltage and a lot of other moisture getting down in there. So just to be on the safe side, we're going to use that.So now that we've got it all cleaned up, we're going to remove the five nuts that are holding the backing plate on. We'll remove these nuts using a 15 millimeter socket. You do want to save these nuts as we're going to be using them to install our new components. On the back side of our brake assembly, we've got our wiring coming out there. We're just going to snip the wires here and then we can slide the whole hub off. And we'll also set this aside. You don't need to worry about the wires, they won't be active anymore.We can now take our caliper bracket and it is labeled outside there so you know which way to put it on. We want to install it with the caliper facing towards the rear. So we're going to slide it on and then line up our holes. You see there's several holes in there, it is only going to line up certain ways, but we know we want the caliper facing towards the rear. So it's going to line up just like that. We'll then just use the nuts that we had removed previously and re-install those. Then we'll just tighten them down. A star pattern can help ensure that it tightens down flush. Once you've got them tightened down, we'll then torque it to the specifications found in our instructions.We're now going to assemble our new hub. Here's our rotor with the hub on it and this is our inner bearing. This is the larger of the two. This is the one you're going to want to start with. We're just going to drop it down in our bearing packer to pack it. You can also pack it by hand, by putting grease in your hand and do it like this, but that's just really messy and it takes a lot of time. You're going to waste a lot more grease doing that. So I highly recommend a bearing packer. It's much cleaner, and it's going to save you money in the long run with how much grease you're not going to be wasting. So you just drop your bearing down in there, and I did drop it with the smaller portion of the taper down and the larger diameter facing up.Just take our topper, set it on there, and then you just kind of press down, and I kind of just rock it around. And what'll happen is you'll see grease start to pop up between the rollers. And that's what we want to see, we want to see the grease popped up through all those rollers. That way we know that it's well-packed on the inside.Now we can take our bearing out of there. I'm just going to use my screwdriver and once again, I'm kind of just taking the bearing and sloshing around in there just to get some grease on the outside. And we're just going to drop it right down inside of our hub there. Then we can take our grease seal. We want to make sure that this is the side facing us. You don't want to be able to see the inside of the spring. That just sits on there. And then we just want to hammer it down. You can either use a seal driver or a block of wood. We are going to be using both because these do need to be recessed slightly. Typically, your seals are hammered and flushed, but on these, they do have to be slightly recessed.We do sell seal drivers here at etrailer, so you can get those. But a block of wood is still my preferred method to get it started because you can get a nice, good drive across it and move it around. I just find it a little easier to work with to start. And we'll take the seal driver now, and we're just going to get it in there the rest of the way. And what we're looking for here is this little lip, how it's tapered in. We want it to be flushed with the bottom of that taper, so we're almost there. And that's pretty much what we're looking for right there.So now we've got the hub prepared. It's ready to slide on there, but I like to have my outer bearing prepared. So I just dropped that down in there. And we're going to pack this one real quick for the outer. You can just leave it sitting in your cup until you're ready for it. Now we're going to clean up a couple of parts. On our outer bearing, you're going to have your washer. Typically, it sticks to it just like that, as well as the retaining clip. So we're going to be reusing the retaining clip and the washer. So I'm just going to wipe that old grease off of those and get these guys prepared as well. We can also wipe off our nut. We won't be reusing the bearings we took out or the bearing cap.We have all those parts cleaned up. So now we'll take our hub, we're going to carefully lift it over our spindle. We want to just be careful not to nick the seal. Just go straight on with it till it's all the way seated. It can be a little tight sometimes, sliding over the spindle. And once you get it all the way slid up on there and it is a little tight and all of a sudden it's just going to go, you'll be able to see that the grease fitting sticks out just a little bit past the outside. That way, you know you got it all the way on there.We'll then take our outer bearing out of our cup. I'm just going to slide it on there. And then following that, we're going to place on our washer, followed by our retaining clip and then lastly, the nut. Now, once you get your nut on there, what I like to do to ensure that we've got everything fully seated is we're going to take our channel locks once again, and we're going to fully tighten the nut. And I kind of like to spin the bearing a little bit too, tightening it down. So we want to just make sure again, that it's all the way seated on there. That's pretty snug. You should almost feel the bearings getting a little bit tighter as you get it nice and snug.And once you've got it tightened down, we're going to then back it back off. That's just to make sure it's seated. So now we're just backing it off a little bit, and it should be nice and easy to turn. So now we're just going to easily turn it until we feel resistance, and it's about right there. And that's about where we want it to be, just right when you start to feel that little bit of resistance. And you'll notice that the notches on your nut are going to line up with that tab again. We want to take that tab and flip it up. So it's not quite lined up. It's okay to give it just a little bit more to get that tab to line up to where you can bend it back into place between the two little notches. Just like that, it bent up. I'm just going to make sure we push it all the way up like that. That's going to now lock it in place.At this point now, we can go ahead and fill our hub up with grease using the inaudible 00:12:27 here on the end. We sell the grease, not only in the tubs for your bearing packer, but also in tubes. So you can put it in your grease gun and fill it up. Now it is going to take quite a few pumps. I've already put probably about 20 in it, but what we're looking for is when pumping it up, for the grease to start to come back out and you can just start to see it now where it's oozing out. That way, we know that it's completely filled in the cavities behind it. At this point now, we can go ahead and screw our cap on and then we'll tighten it down. You'll see the torque specifications written on the cap.We can now put our caliper on. It's going to come preassembled like this with the pads already in there. You may have to push the inner one in just cause it likes to fall out of the box. It just presses in there. The slides that you see here on the end, we're going to push those just to where they're flush or slightly recessed in there just cause the slides can hang up on the bracket when you're trying to push it on there. So if you push those out, that'll make things go a little easier. And then you may want to insert the bolts. We don't want to have them sticking out cause again, that's going to interfere. We're going to pull them back, but the wheel spring's pretty close there and sometimes you can have a difficult time getting the bolt in on the top one if you don't already have it pre-inserted like that.Now I'm just going to lift it into position. And due to the coating on these, I found that most of them are pretty tight because of the corrosion preventive coating. So you will have to likely come in here with a rubber mallet and tap it in place to get by all that coating. And you can see here now it's loose. We kind of scraped off some of the coating. It's kind of a really slick, not very smooth coating, so we're just wearing off those outer edges, that's where it was kind of clumped up. Now we've got it on there. We can just tighten and torque down our hardware using a 13 millimeter socket. You'll find the specifications in your instructions. You can then just repeat this for the other side of this axle and then any number of axles that you still have remaining. On this one we just have one more.Now that we've got our brakes installed, next we're going to install our actuator and our line kit, which is going to get all that hydraulic fluid back to our calipers here and it's going to activate them. Those don't come included with your brake assemblies, but we sell all that here at etrailer.com and we're going to be getting all that set up. I've got some of it kind of planned out here, but we still got to finish up our installation.We now need to bleed our brakes. So we've got our cap off. We're going to leave the cap off while we bleed the brakes cause it'll actually can suck the rubber out from inside and potentially damage it. So we're just going to fill up the reservoir now. We're using DOT 3 brake fluid, which you can get at your local automotive store. And we're just going to fill it up to the first little lip on the inside. We don't want to go all the way to the top because as we're bleeding this and it's pressurizing the fluid, that pressurized fluid is eventually going to want to depressurize and it's going to slowly come back up so it can actually overfill. So we want to kind of give us a little gap there.So now we're back here at the furthest brake caliper from our reservoir. Since we mounted it in the front, on the driver's side, we're on the passenger side at the furthest back. You want to start at the furthest one away because that's going to get most of the air out first, making the other breaks, easier to bleed. The bleeder screw is a 5/16" in size, that's the size of our wrench. And I just got a hose that's going down into a bucket to drain the fluid out, just so we don't get fluid all over the place.We're going to have an assistant ensure that the fluid doesn't get too low, it maintains topped up and have them activate the actuator. They can do this by either pulling the breakaway pin or you could hook up to your truck and use the manual slider on your brake controller. So I'm going to go ahead and open it up and we're going to have our assistant go ahead and start it. Let's go ahead, Joe.And we've got nice, clean fluid coming out of there. So it's exactly what we want to see. You'll typically get a bunch of air bubbles at first, but then once it comes out clear like that, you can go ahead and take this off, move to the next break and so forth. We're just going to move on to this one, you could go to the other side. At this point, the furthest one is the most important. Typically, you go furthest to closest, but once you get this guy done, it gets some of the majority of the air out. Hit each other wheel, usually you only got to hit it one or two times to get the rest of the air out on those.Now we're going to go ahead and just take it for a quick test drive and test out the brakes to make sure they're working properly. When you hit the manual slider, you can definitely feel it stopping it. It'll actually hold the truck to the point where it can't move. I can probably do a burnout. No, I'm not going to go into it, we're going to go ahead and park it, but our brakes are working like they should. And that completes our installation of Kodiak's Disc Brake Conversion kit on our 2014 Heartland Bighorn..

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